COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL. The Best of Shànghâi. If you simply count heads, Shànghâi is the biggest city in the biggest country

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1 The Best of Shànghâi 1 If you simply count heads, Shànghâi is the biggest city in the biggest country on Earth. If you simply scan statistics, this is China s capital of commerce, industry, and finance. But numbers don t tell the whole story. Shànghâi has a colonial past more intense than that of any other city in China, save Hong Kong, and this legacy gives it a dramatic character, visible in the very facades of its buildings. But the city is not only a museum of East meeting West on Chinese soil. Overnight, Shànghâi has become one of the world s great modern capitals, the one city that best shows where China is headed at the dawn of the 21st century. Shànghâi was not always much of a delight to tour, but that has changed. After the building boom of the 1990s tore the city apart, new roads, highways, tunnels, and bridges, not to mention new hotels, restaurants, and sights now make Shànghâi a city that a visitor can once again comfortably enjoy and explore. Today there are large neighborhoods of foreign architecture, wonderful for a stroll, where Europeans, especially the French, once resided. Shànghâi s great river of commerce, the Huángpû, a tributary of the mighty Yángzî River, is lined with a gallery of colonial architecture, known as the Bund, grander than any other in the East, much of it recently refurbished and beckoning the curious visitor. The mansions, garden estates, country clubs, and cathedrals of Westerners who made their fortunes here a century ago pepper the city. Even a synagogue exists, dating from the days of an unparalleled Jewish immigration to China. These are not the typical monuments of China, but they are typical of Shànghâi. At the same time, creations of a strictly Chinese culture prevail. A walk through the chaotic old Chinese city turns up traditional treasures: a teahouse epitomizing old China; a quintessential Southern-Chinese classical garden; active temples and ancient pagodas; and even a section of Shànghâi s old city wall. If Shànghâi s primary architecture and avenues recall 19th-century Europe rather than old Cathay, this is still a Chinese city to the core. Shànghâi is a haven for shoppers Nánj ng Lù is the number-one shopping street in all of China but perhaps even more importantly, Shànghâi represents the future of China. Across the mighty Huángpû River, which served as old Shànghâi s eastern border, Pûd ng, serving as the face of new Shànghâi, now boasts the tallest hotel in the world, Asia s largest shopping mall, China s largest stock exchange, and one of the highest observation decks in Asia, the Oriental Pearl TV Tower. Not to be outdone, old Shànghâi has its own legions of new skyscrapers, too, and a booming collection of fine international restaurants, several of them taking over the rooftops of the colonial gems lining the Bund and the mansions that went to seed in Shànghâi s French Quarter. Shànghâi is also reestablishing itself as a leading trendsetter for fashion, design, culture, and the arts. New theaters and cultural centers attract top performers from China and abroad, while designers of every stripe are taking COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL

2 6 China CHAPTER 1. THE BEST OF SHÀNGHÂ I International Boundary Provincial Boundary National Capital Provincial Capital The Silk Road

3 THE BEST OF SHÀNGHÂ I km 500 mi China

4 8 CHAPTER 1. THE BEST OF SHÀNGHÂ I advantage of the mix of the East, West, past, and future by blazing their own unique styles. Herewith I present a list of Shànghâi s highlights, both the obvious and the more offbeat choices that make the most of all that is unique about the city. Shànghâi is fast regaining its footing in a country in the midst of rediscovering its own. This sense of possibility imbues Shànghâi with a palpable energy unmatched anywhere in the world, once again attracting legions of visitors to its shores. 1 Frommer s Favorite Shànghâi Experiences Strolling the Bund: The most widely known street in Asia, with its gorgeous colonial buildings that were the banks, hotels, trading firms, and private clubs of foreign taipans (bosses of old Shànghâi s trading firms) and adventurers past, deserves to be walked over and over again. See up close the exquisite architectural details of the Peace Hotel, the Customs House, the former Hong Kong and Shànghâi Bank, and scores of other buildings, some lavishly restored, others closed awaiting development. Then head across the street to the Bund Promenade, where you mingle with the masses while admiring the splendor and grandeur of old Shànghâi. See Walking Tour on p Admiring the Collections in the Shànghâi Museum: China s finest, most modern, and most memorable museum of historic relics has disappointed almost no visitor since it opened in the heart of People s Square. Make it a top priority, and allow a few hours more than you planned on. See p Surveying Shànghâi from Up High: After crossing the Huángpû River from old Shànghâi to the new Shànghâi (whether by taxi, subway, tunnel, or ferry), enjoy the ultimate panorama from either the sphere atop the Oriental Pearl TV Tower or the J n Mào Tower, two of Asia s tallest structures. On a clear day, you can see forever. See p. 166 for both. Cruising the Huángpû River: A 27km (17-mile) pleasure cruise from the Bund to the mouth of the mighty Yángzî River, past endless wharves, factories, and tankers at anchor, gives substance to Shànghâi s claim as China s largest port and the fact that nearly half of China s trade with the outside world travels these same waters. A shorter 1-hour cruise, and an abbreviated 30-minute cruise from the Pûd ng side, do not convey the full importance of the river, but they will suffice if you re pressed for time. See p Drinking Tea in the Perfect Teahouse: Shànghâi s Húx ngtíng (Mid-Lake) Teahouse is the quintessential teahouse in China, often thought to be the original model for the one in the Blue Willow plate pattern. Here, at the center of Old Town Shànghâi, is the place to pause for a refreshing cup of green tea, and count yourself on a par with Queen Elizabeth II, who was also a visitor. See p Shopping Nánj ng Lù: Even if you re the kind of person who only shops once a year, a visit to this Number One Shopping Street in China is practically required, if only to appreciate how the pre- Revolutionary era department stores, hotels, and silk shops are mixing it up with the glitzy, modern stores and international boutiques. Better yet, you ll get a chance to marvel (or shudder) at the sheer numbers of people, people, people everywhere! A pedestrian mall

5 FROMMER S FAVORITE SHÀNGHÂ I EXPERIENCES 9 makes strolling and browsing that much easier and that much more crowded. See Walking Tour 2: Nánj ng Lù on p Shopping til You Drop: Nánj ng Lù is for the tourists, but savvy local shoppers know if you want greater choice and better deals, Huáihâi Lù with its slew of international boutiques and large department stores is the place to shop. Branching off and parallel to Huáihâi Lù, Màomíng Lù, Xìnglè Lù, and Chánglè Lù are also home to a number of delightful small shops. See chapter 8, Shopping. Bargaining for Fakes at the Fúyòu Market: Shànghâi has any number of antiques markets where you can hone your bargaining skills, but none more colorful than the Fúyòu Market in the old Chinese city (at the western end of Shànghâi s restored old street, Shànghâi Lâo Ji ). On Sunday mornings, the third and fourth floors are where the interesting junk can be found, though visitors have walked away with some real finds. Half the fun is in rifling through all the personal collections of memorabilia and antiques that the vendors seem to have scavenged; the other half is in dramatically protesting the high prices quoted, walking away, then being called back by a vendor newly willing to deal. See p Strolling the French Concession: This is the most interesting of the colonial districts left in Shànghâi, filled with the gorgeous villas, mansions, and apartment houses of the 1920s and 1930s when the French made their mark here. The avenues are being restored, the facades cleaned up, and the great houses with their balconies, private gardens, and carved paneling are opening their doors as upscale restaurants. Plenty of Art Deco gems abound, hidden behind years of grime and buried beneath webs of laundry poles, awaiting discovery, so keep your head up. See Walking Tour 4: French Concession on p Rediscovering Shànghâi s Jewish Past at the Ohel Moshe Synagogue: In the mid 19th century, SephardicJews from the Middle East helped make Shànghâi a great city. In the mid 20th century, thousands of Jewish refugees flooded the International Settlement north of the Bund. Today, this history can be encountered at the Ohel Moshe Synagogue, where the curator, Mr. Wáng, has vivid accounts of this little-known but important Jewish ghetto. See p Wandering the Old Chinese City: The narrow winding alleys of the old Chinese city may strike some as mysterious and forbidding, but they are neither of these, and are worth exploring even beyond the walking tours in chapter 7. Here is a chance to come upon a wet market, or run into the increasingly rare sight of a night soil worker on his morning rounds (many houses in this part of town still lack indoor plumbing). See it before the bulldozer shows up. See Walking Tour 3 on p Morning Exercises on the Bund: There s no better way to greet the day than to join the thousands of Shànghâi residents in their morning tai chi exercises (and occasionally Western ballroom dancing) on the Bund and in Shànghâi s parks. The Bund is preferable: The first golden rays hitting the colonial facades are truly something to behold. See chapter 6 for details on the Bund and on Shànghâi parks. Dining on Hairy Crab: The signature dish of Shànghâi is

6 10 CHAPTER 1. THE BEST OF SHÀNGHÂ I absolutely scrumptious, but it is seasonal (autumn), and it is best enjoyed at a big local restaurant. See chapter 5 for recommended restaurants. Watching the Acrobats: This has TOURIST stamped all over it, but it s nevertheless a totally worthwhile pleasure, especially since Shànghâi s dazzling troupes are rightly considered China s very finest at this ancient craft. See chapter 9. Sampling Shànghâi s Jazz Scene: The Peace Hotel Jazz Band s (p. 217) nightly performances of New Orleans style jazz, with some members who have been playing here since before the Revolution (1949), are the ultimate piece of colonial nostalgia, but if this doesn t grab you, modern and more improvisational jazz can be heard at a number of true blue joints: the Cotton Club (p. 217), Club JZ (p. 217), and the House of Blues and Jazz (p. 217). Rooftop Dining on the Bund: Whether it s savoring world-class cuisine on the open-air balcony of Shànghâi s top international restaurant, M on the Bund, or lingering over a cappuccino on the rooftop of the new bistro, New Heights, dining high above Asia s most famous street is a heady experience not to be missed. See p. 94 and 95. Exploring Shànghâi s New Heaven on Earth: Downtown Shànghâi s most lavish redevelopment, X n Ti ndì (New Heaven 2 Best Hotel Bets For complete hotel listings, see chapter 4, Where to Stay. Best Historic Hotel: The legendary Cathay Hotel, now the Peace Hotel, Nánj ng D ng Lù 20 (& 021/ ), located at Shànghâi s most fabled intersection (Nánj ng Lù and the Bund), is a and Earth) has become the prime place to see and be seen. The new restaurants here rank as Shànghâi s most sophisticated and expensive; the boutiques are pricey, too; and the architecture, an artful blend of native traditional and ultramodern Western, may mark a turning point in Shànghâi s redesign for the future. See p Eating Xiâolón gb o: Unless you re a vegetarian, not trying Shànghâi s favorite (pork) dumpling while you re here is tantamount in some circles to not having been to Shànghâi at all. The little steamed breads spill broth in your mouth when you bite into them. You can find them everywhere, but for a list of the best places, see Best Xiâolóng b o (Dumpling) on p. 13. For tips on how to eat it without scalding your tongue, see Shànghâi s Favorite Dumpling on p Drifting in a Gondola through a Water Village in Tónglî or Nánxún: There are any number of picturesque water villages near Shànghâi where you can be paddled in a gondola along streams and canals as you pass traditional arched bridges, quaint stone houses, and classical Chinese gardens. Two villages stand out: Tónglî and Nánxún Also, both have additional sights worth seeing and considerably smaller crowds than at tourist traps like Zh u Zhu ng, but see them soon. See p. 240 and 238. living museum of Shànghâi s Art Deco and colonial past. See p. 72. Best Hotel for Today: The honor remains with the Portman Ritz- Carlton, Nánj ng X Lù 1376 (& 800/ or 021/ ), owing to its tremendous business and shopping facilities, as

7 BEST HOTEL BETS 11 well as a recent remodeling (though right on its heels are The Westin Shànghâi and the Four Seasons). See p. 80. Best Hotel for Tomorrow: The highest hotel in the world, the Grand Hyatt, Shìjì Dà Dào 88 (& 800/ or 021/ ), is also the highest in hightech amenities and designs. This 21st-century pagoda has 60 elevators, 19 escalators, a 57th-floor skypool for swimming in the sky, and a 360-degree panorama from the cloud tops. See p. 86. Best Service: An impossibly difficult category with fierce competition, but our vote goes to the consistently friendly and efficient service at the Four Seasons Hotel Shànghâi, W ihâi Lù (& 800/ or 021/ ). Staff is extremely discreet and anticipates your needs rather than reacts to requests. See p. 80. A close second is the St. Regis Shànghâi, D ngf ng Lù 889 (& 800/ or 021/ ), where no request seems too frivolous or difficult for the hotel s butlers. See p. 87. Best Business Hotel: It seems unfair for one hotel to hog the limelight, but the Portman Ritz- Carlton, Nánj ng X Lù 1376 (& 800/ or 021/ ), not only wins this category in Shànghâi, as poll after poll of foreign business travelers consistently show, but it has been deemed by the same polls to be the Best Business Hotel in Asia. The Hilton, Huásh n Lù 250 (& 800/ or 021/ ), also consistently receives raves from foreign business travelers for its efficiency and location, as does The Westin Shànghâi, Hénán Zh ng Lù 88, Bund Center (& 888/WESTIN-1 or 021/ ). See p. 80 and 71. Best Hotel Perks: Perhaps to compensate for its less-than-ideal location in Pûd ng, the St. Regis Shànghâi, D ngf ng Lù 889 (& 800/ or 021/ ), throws in a host of perks like free broadband Internet in all rooms, and free happy hour cocktails and canapés for all in their executive lounge. They also have the largest rooms in town, fitted with Herman Miller Aeron chairs, BOSE CD wave radios, and some of the largest bathtubs in town. There s no reason to leave the hotel at all. See p. 87. Best Hotel on the Bund: Set back a block or two, but towering nonetheless over the Bund, is The Westin Shànghâi, Hénán Zh ng Lù 88, Bund Center (& 888/ WESTIN-1 or 021/ ), opened in 2002 with heavenly beds and wonderful views. See p. 71. Best View of the Bund: The nearby Grand Hyatt is higher, but the 28-story Pûd ng Shangri-La, Fùchéng Lù 33 (& 800/ or 021/ ), is closer and at just the right elevation for a spectacular view of Shànghâi s European architecture across the Huángpû River. The view is even better at night when this riverfront colonial scroll of banks and trading houses is lit up. See p. 86. Best Value for Money: At the Art Deco Yangtze Hotel, Hànkôu Lù 740 (& 021/ ), 680 to 780 ($85 $98) before discounts will get you a comfortable, clean room with all the basic amenities including broadband Internet service. Rates are usually discounted by 30%. All this, and it s within walking distance of People s Square and Nánj ng Lù as well. See p. 73.

8 12 CHAPTER 1. THE BEST OF SHÀNGHÂ I Best Undiscovered Budget Lodgings: Who needs the extra frills when you can get a room in a French Concession mansion for under $50? The Shànghâi Conservatory of Music Guest House, F nyáng Lù 20 (& ), has three charming doubles ( 300/$39) with en suite bathroom and balcony; while the Jùy ng B nguân, Jùlù Lù 889 (& 021/ , ext. 885/ 886), has impeccably clean rooms overlooking a pleasant garden compound for around 450 ($56) before discount. See p. 79 and 82. Best Celebrity Room: Of all the famous visitors who have stayed in Shànghâi s hotels through the years, perhaps no guest is more renowned than Albert Einstein, who stayed at the then-astor House Hotel, now the decidedly no-frills Pûji ng Hotel, Huángpû Lù 15 (& 021/ ). His room is yours for the relatively cheap rate of 880 ($110) a night. See p. 75. Best Setting: The Ruìj n Hotel, Ruìj n Èr Lù 118 (& 021/ ), located on the former Morriss Estate in the French Concession, boasts one of the 3 Best Dining Bets For complete restaurant listings, see chapter 5, Where to Dine. Best International Dining: Shànghâi s world-class Mediterranean restaurant, M on the Bund, Guângd ng Lù 20, 7th Floor (& 021/ ), not only serves impeccable Continental cuisine, but features a knockout view of the Bund and riverfront from atop a colonial-era trading house. See p. 94. The darling of many of Shànghâi s gourmands, T8 (& 021/ ), located downtown at X n Ti ndì, continues to garner international acclaim loveliest colonial settings with four original villas (and several faux additions) amid sprawling manicured lawns that are lovely to stroll. To boot, there are several excellent restaurants and bars on the premises, which means you never have to leave the grounds of this block-long estate. See p. 77. Best Newcomer: The finally opened (Oct 2003) JW Marriott, Nánj ng X Lù 399 (& 800/ or 021/ ), is staking out its new turf with the tallest hotel in Pûx, stunning views, luxurious in-room amenities, and a superb location close to People s Park and X n Ti ndì. See p. 70. Best Health and Fitness Facilities: The health and fitness facilities at the Regal International East Asia Hotel, Héngsh n Lù 516 (& 800/ or 021/ ), don t stop at just the 25m (82-ft.) lap pool, the aerobics gym, the simulated golf range, or the 12-lane bowling alley; add in the 10 world-class tennis courts (2 indoors), including a center court with viewer seating for 1,200. See p. 78. for its highly creative new world cooking. See p. 97. Best Shànghâi Dining: The city abounds in restaurants serving tasty local fare, but the standout for contemporary Shànghâi cuisine has to be newcomer Shànghâi Uncle, Yán n D ng Lù 222, Bund Center Basement (& 021/ ), featuring creative spins on old classics, focusing on tender and flavorful pork dishes that can turn even the most diehard vegetarians into carnivores. Three branches already pepper the city. See p Another

9 BEST DINING BETS 13 stellar choice is long-standing expatriate-favorite 1221, Yán n X Lù 1221 (& 021/ ), serving delicious Shànghâi fare that s neither too sweet nor too oily. See p More traditional (sweeter and oilier) Shànghâi cuisine is probably best sampled at Shànghâi Lâo Fàndiàn, Fúyòu Lù 242 (& 021/ ), with a history dating to 1875 and the most meltingly tender eight treasure duck you ll ever taste. See p Best Dining in a Colonial Mansion: These days it s easy to find an old mansion for dinner, but former favorite Sasha s has now been trumped by La Villa Rouge, Héngsh n Lù 811 (& 021/ ), located in a gorgeous red brick mansion on the edge of Xúji huì Park that was the former EMI Recording Studio. The food is expensive French/fusion from award-winning Japanese chefs, but its grand staircase, antique wallpaper, and old gramophones are pure Shànghâi nostalgia. See p Best Hotel Dining: No hotel gives more high-quality choices (or a better view) than the Grand Hyatt in Pûd ng, Shìjì Dà Dào 88 (& 021/ , ext. 8898), with its Grand Café s international buffets (54th floor), the Canton s gourmet Cantonese dishes (55th floor), or the Grill s seafood and steaks, Kobatchi s yakitori, and Cuchina s Tuscan pastas and pizzas (all on the 56th floor) not to mention the 10 open kitchens that make up the Food Live food street on podium level 3. See p. 86. Best Deli: Stock up big time at the Bauernstube on the second floor of the Sheraton Grand Tài Píng Yáng Hotel, Z nyì Nán Lù 5 (& 021/ ), with its huge selection of cheeses, sausages, Norwegian salmon, breads, cakes, and roast chicken. See p. 83. Best Places to Eat & Be Seen: Modern taipans, celebrities, and sophisticated locals can be found dining at the very chic restaurants in the French Concession s Lan Kwai Fong at Park 97 complex, G olán Lù 2 (& 021/ ); or at downtown s X n Ti ndì mall on Tàic ng Lù; and, increasingly, at the trendy and perhaps still-a-little-too exclusive Three on the Bund. The food in the restaurants at each site is, for the most part, as superb as it is varied. See p. 97 and 95. Best Burgers: For big, authentic burgers with all the fixings, there s still no beating Malone s, Tóngrén Lù 255 near the Shànghâi Centre (& 021/ ), a Canadian-owned sports bar that s as American as it gets. See p Best Light Lunch: Delicious fresh salads are now readily available in Shànghâi at Element Fresh at the Shànghâi Centre, Nánj ng X Lù 1376, no. 112 (& 021/ ). Wash it down with a fresh-squeezed carrot-apple-ginseng or your favorite smoothie. See p Best Teahouse: The most famous teahouse in China, its eaves soaring over the pond by Yù Yuán (Yù Garden), is Shànghâi s own Húx ngtíng (& 021/ ), a welcome haven in the crunch of Old Town shopping and mass tourism. See p Best Xiâolóng b o (Dumpling): The traditional favorite establishment for Shànghâi s favorite dumpling has always been Nánxiáng Mántou Diàn, Yùyuán Lù 85 (& 021/ ), near Yù Yuán in the old Chinese City. Patrons line up here for hours. But the new Crystal Jade Restaurant in X n Ti ndì, Xìnyè Lù 123,

10 14 CHAPTER 1. THE BEST OF SHÀNGHÂ I Nánlî 6 7, 2nd Floor, 12A & B (& 021/ ), can now rightfully claim the crown with the thinnest dumpling wrapper in town, and perfect xiâolóng b o that are served at just the right temperature. Crystal Jade also serves an excellent d n d n miàn (noodles in spicy peanut sauce), not that you need another reason to head straight there. See p. 115 and 99. Best Cantonese: Any hotel worth its salt in Shànghâi has a Cantonese restaurant (the second most popular Chinese regional cuisine in town after Shànghâi s own), but the two top choices are the long-presiding Dynasty, Yán n X Lù 2099, in the Renaissance Yangtze Hotel (& 021/ ); and the 55th-floor Canton restaurant at the Grand Hyatt Hotel, Shìjì Dà Dào 88, in Pûd ng (& 021/ , ext. 8898; reserve 3 days in advance). These elegant restaurants feature top chefs from Hong Kong. See p. 110 and 112. Best European: Danieli s, at the St. Regis Shànghâi, D ngf ng Lù 877, 29th Floor, Pûd ng (& 021/ ), is the best option, out of a crowded field and some fine competition, for Italian, with excellent pastas, panoramic views, and exquisite service. See p The purple-themed French restaurant La Seine, Jì nán Lù 8 (& 021/ ), offers superb entrées and sinful desserts, and is a favorite with its international clientele. See p. 99. Jean Georges, Zh ngsh n D ng Y Lù 3, 4th Floor (& 021/ ), opened at press time and promises to be a hit. See p. 95. Best Asian (Non-Chinese): Simply Thai, D ngpíng Lù 5, Unit C (& 021/ ), in a quaint French Concession cottage, offers the most authentic Thai food in the most pleasing environment. The best nouvelle Japanese cuisine comes by way of an über-hip Bauhaus bunker known as Shintori Null II, Jùlù Lù 803 (& 021/ ), while the best place for more traditional hearty Japanese favorites is Itoya, Nánj ng X Lù 1515, 1st Floor (& 021/ ). Indian Kitchen, Yôngji Lù 572 (& 021/ ), is your best source for tasty Indian fare that is also easy on the wallet. See p. 103, 105, and 107. Best Decor: The trove of Asian artifacts, Buddha statues, and Míng Dynasty furniture inside the incense-filled loft of a Tudor-style mansion makes the fine food at The Door, Hóngqiáo Lù 1468, 3rd Floor (& 021/ ), secondary to its decor. See p Best for Kids: Overall, most Chinese restaurants are very childfriendly. The staff at 1221, Yán n X Lù 1221 (& 021/ ), tends to dote on children and give families the private rooms. O Malley s, Táoji ng Lù 42 (& 021/ ), has a children s playground on the front lawn that s a hit with both kids and parents. See p. 110 and 103. Best Tongue Twister (Due to Spicy Food): Two of the spiciest Chinese cuisines are well represented here: B Guó Bù Y, Hóngqiáo Lù 1676 (& 021/ ), is one of the most authentic Sìchu n restaurants in town and will introduce neophytes to the Sìchu n peppercorn. At D Shuî Dòng, Màomíng Nán Lù 56 (& 021/ ), you ll get chilies straight up by way of Húnán Province. Either place will have your sweat glands working overtime. See p. 111 and 100. Best Chinese Restaurant Undiscovered by the Masses: Lâo Tán, Xìngfú Lù 42, 2nd Floor (& 021/ ), squirreled away on

11 BEST DINING BETS 15 the western edge of the French Concession, serves the spicy and sour cuisine of Southwestern China s Guìzh u Province. Its signature sour beans with smoked bacon and its fiery chicken dishes are probably not what you re used to, but they are definitely worth trying. Light on the wallet as well. See p Best Crab: Wáng Bâo Hé, Fúzh u Lù 603 (& 021/ ), a Shànghâi institution that claims to be the oldest restaurant in town, brings political and business leaders and crab aficionados to their knees with its multitude of crab dishes, but especially during hairy crab season (autumn). You ll be on your knees, too, when you see the bill. See p. 94. Best Vegetarian: The French Concession Zâo Zî Shù, S ngsh n Lù 77, 1st Floor (& 021/ ), takes its mission seriously (its name is also a pun that exhorts diners to become vegetarians as soon as possible, zâo ch sù). There s no smoking, no MSG, no alcohol, and no dairy, but plenty of organic tea, fruit appetizers, flavorful vegetables, mushrooms, and tofu doubling as meat. See p. 100.