Greece: The Cycladic Islands of Naxos and Amorgos

Transcription

1 Telephone: +44 (0) Greece: The Cycladic Islands of Naxos and Amorgos Island hopping in the emerald Aegean page 1/10

2 Route Summary At a glance 7 nights (4 on Naxos, 3 Amorgos). The full route. You can extend your stays on either island, 6-night option available subject to 3-nights minimum per island, or go for a one-island holiday (minimum 4 nights). How much walking? Full days: Naxos 9-12 km per day, 3-4 hrs walking, Amorgos 8-15 km per day, 2½-5 hrs walking. Using shortening options: None, but you decide each day whether to choose an easy walk or a harder, or even opt out and go to the beach! Max. Grade: page 2/10

3 This two-island route offers some fine walking on two contrasting islands, each with its own special flavour. The scenery in both is splendid and the walking very fine; while the larger island of Naxos has a great variety of sights and walks, its smaller cousin Amorgos reminds one of earlier times when tourism in the Aegean was far less developed. The sea, with its swimming opportunities, is always at hand, and we help you to find the best. On Naxos you are based in or near Naxos Old Town, whose Venetian heritage is clear in the Kastro dominating the labyrinthine alleys, a cornucopia of little blue-and-white shops and restaurants. Courtesy of the local bus service (backed up by our enthusiastic taxi man Giannis when needed), the best walking on the island is available to you. Visit the half-finished, ancient statues (Kouros) lying in a farmer s field, the pretty villages of the interior (Apiranthos, Filoti and Chalki), and the beach at Lionas, where you can be royally lunched, and sleep the afternoon away after home-made honey raki and a swim. Walk to the temple of Demeter or ascend Mt Zas, the highest mountain in the Cyclades at 1000m, and get back in time for delicious filo pastries in the village bars. Amorgos is quite another matter. Lonely and far less developed, the walking embraces the authentic culture of the island while giving some thrilling views and experiences notably the Monastery of Chozoviotiza, clinging limpet-like to its cliff, followed by a walk along the spine of the island back to your pension in quiet Aegiali. Two further walks will take you through the villages of the northern end of the island, and to a windy outpost, accessible only by a cliff path. Standard option (see itinerary ): 7 nights (4 Naxos, 3 Amorgos), but you can choose to stay longer on each island, and hire a car locally if you wish to explore each more fully. Single island options also available (recommended for shorter stays). Minimum stays on each island: Naxos 3 nights (July/August 4), Amorgos 2 (July/August 3). Minimum total stay 5 nights. Note that ferry transfers between the two islands are lengthy (2-4 hours) and that access to Naxos is either by ferry from Santorini (2 hrs), Mykonos (1½ hrs) or Piraeus (6 hrs), or by daily flight from Athens only. Flight and ferry times may mean an overnight near the airport on either the outward or return journey. We advise you to discuss your flight plans with On Foot Holidays first before settling on the shape of the holiday. Walked by On Foot staff: Simon, Mary, Harriet and Fi REVIEWS: For independent walker reviews of this route submitted to the Association of Independent Tour Operators visit AITO.com. TRAVEL ADVICE: To find the latest travel advice from the Foreign & Commonwealth Office for UK citizens travelling to Greece, click here. Citizens of other nations will also find it useful, but should always check their appropriate local agency. (filmed by Richard and Sarah Madden, using a Panasonic Lumix GH5 camera) page 3/10

4 Route Highlights NAXOS: The old town of Naxos and the Venetian Kastro The hill villages of the interior The temple of Demeter Lionas beach and honey Raki The ascent of Mt Zas and 360º views of the Aegean Islands AMORGOS: The monastery of Chozoviotiza on its cliff The Aegiali bowl and its villages Walking the spine of the island along the ridge The cliff walk to the chapel of Stavros We Recommend Staying on and hiring a car to explore the rest of Naxos and the southern part of Amorgos (including its archaeological sites) - or just lying on the beaches, swimming in clear blue sea and enjoying local food and wines. Linking this route with our other Cyclades route, Andros (transfer via Mykonos - ask us for advice) Grading Full days: Naxos 9-12 km per day, 3-4 hrs walking, Amorgos 8-15 km per day, 2½-5 hrs walking. Using shortening options: None, but you decide each day whether to choose an easy walk or a harder, or even opt out and go to the beach! Generally well marked paths. Remember you can opt our of walking any day, but shortening is less easy. NAXOS: Easy-medium: Easy gradients except Mt Zas (1000m). Some narrow paths. Average cumulative uphill stretches (CUSs) 400m (200m - 800m) per day. AMORGOS: Medium: Easy gradients, some scree in small sections. Average CUSs 500m (400m - 800m) per day. GPX file available for handheld GPS or smartphone App for all walking days. Important note: Times given for each day are walking times for an average walker and exclude stops. CUSs stands for Cumulative Uphill Stretches and measures the aggregated ascents in each day, expressed in metres of climb. See Walk Grading for more information. page 4/10

5 When to go The best months to walk: April, May, September, October Other possible months: June, July, August, November April is the beginning of our season on these islands, and it extends to the middle of November (warm seas, normally calm weather), but remember July and August can be searingly hot. The locals say May is the best for the flowers, while we fancy a late October/early November break when you really need one... note though that before May and after October you have to transfer via Athens, as Santorini and Mykonos close to international flights. In the summer months the heat may dictate that you may spend more time on the beach than on the trails, but you should be able to get some walking in, if you take care (hats/sunscreen etc). Naxos is also available in March but this cannot be combined with Amorgos as the ferry service renders it impossible. Itinerary Day 1 - Arrival day Listed below is a menu of walks available on each island. We hope to add to these as time goes by. The walks can be done in any order. Arrival and departure details are not listed, and you should bear in mind that transfers by ferry can be quite lengthy and that overnighting near an airport may be necessary. See "Travel Information) for more details. Day 2 - Agias Mamas to Chalki A wonderful day s walk that crosses Naxos s most water-filled central part. After Pano (Upper) Potamia, you can decide whether to detour to Kouros to visit the ancient quarries and see the lasting remains of sculptures that didn t quite make it. Continue to Chalki, enjoying amazing vistas to the sea and a dramatic, boulder-filled landscape as you pass around Kastro Castle, perched high on the peak above. It s more bucolic as you head towards Tsikalario and beyond, with terraced farms and olive groves Chalki, with its bars and cafés is journey s end. Verdant, plentiful wild flowers and drama. A day of true contrasts. (Medium: 4½ hrs, 12½ km, CUSs 650m) Day 3 - Koronos to Lionas Beach Starting in the small village of Koronos and its labyrinth of alleys, this walk heads down to the remote beach at Lionas, following the course of the valley below. The ancient path leads you to a lonely, yet verdant part of Naxos, offering wonderful views of the mountains and their lunar-like landscapes. Be prepared to take longer than you plan as the friendly locals are sure to want to chat and show you the way. And Lionas Beach journey s end! Swim in the crystal clear waters before rewarding yourselves with a meal at the family-run Delfinaki restaurant where nearly everything you will consume will have been produced locally, including the honey raki. The family will drive you back to Koronos for your bus or taxi back. (Easy: 3 hrs, 7½km, CUSs 200m) page 5/10

6 Day 4 - a choice of two further walks Mount Zas circuit: A breathtaking ascent of the highest mountain in the Cyclades (at a modest 1001m). The views from the top are spectacular and 360 degree, taking in seven islands, if the weather is clear. Do not attempt in bad weather or cloud, as the navigation near the top depends on good visibility. It s a big climb but over in a couple of hours, and the descent is a pretty contouring path all the way back to Filoti for lunch. ( Medium: 4 hrs, 10km, 800m) Apiranthos to Chalki. For GPS users only as some paths are indistinct. A day of three villages and some extraordinary engineering. The Kalderimia, or paved mule tracks, which linked the villages to each other and to their upland pastures and terraces from the 18th century to the 20th must have taken decades of labour to build, and have now fallen into disuse with the advent of the motor car. But we can still use them, and the Naxiots are slowly clearing them and renovating a few for our recreation. Today we link Apiranthos, Moni and Chalki by such routes, over a dramatic ridge top between the first two and down a beautiful valley for the second half. ( Medium: 4 hrs, 9km, CUSs 600m). Day 5 - The temple of Demeter walk, then transfer to Amorgos A short morning walk through a green and fertile valley to discover the ancient 6th century BC site of Apollo and Demeter, together with its tiny Byzantine church. Retrace your steps to Ano Sagri (a listed and protected village due to its architecture) and then spoil yourself with a meal at Jonny s, allegedly the island s best taverna. (Easy: 2 hrs, 4km, CUSs 200m). Bus or taxi to start and return. Transfer to Amorgos from Naxos by ferry (normally 14:00, arriving 17:20). You will be met at the port by your host (transfer to accommodation from Aegialis is free, from Katapola 5 pp pay locally). Day 6 - Two possible walks from the hotel The Aegialis circuit: The perfect walk to get you warmed up and aquainted with this corner of Amorgos. The villages of Aegiali, Langada, Stroumbos and Tholaria were once only linked by ancient calderimia and this walk takes a step back in time as you revisit traditional ways of life. You will see mules going about their business (under the watchful eye of their muleteers) in Langada and the friendly islanders will be sure to make you feel welcome. The walk encircles the bay below and at times it s easy to believe that you have the best seats in the amphitheatre whilst enjoying the Aegiali Show, accompanied only by the soundtrack of nature. (Easy-medium: 3 hrs, 7 km, CUSs 390m) Aegialis to Stavros: A walk into the hills, to the church of Aghios Theologos, on its saddle between the mountains of Skoros and Kroukeros. Now all but abandoned, this church had its own self-contained community based on the fertile lands on the saddle. The real destination is, however, the tiny chapel of Stavros, perched on the edge of the cliff on the forgotten eastern limits of the island. The final kilometre of the walk is on a narrow path across a 45 degree slope which some walkers may find daunting. We suggest you go and have a look, and then decide. The view from the decision point is worth it in its own right. (Medium-hard: 5 hrs, 16km, CUSs 740m) Day 7 - Chora and the Chozoviotiza Monastery to Aegialis This mighty walk follows the spine of the island, connecting the capital Chora with Aegialis. Starting with a 25 minute transfer to the capital Chora, have a wander around this particularly pretty town, before descending to the astonishing monastery of Chozoviotiza, clinging like a limpet to the sea-cliff. With luck there will be a monk to show you round. After the visit your view-laden path climbs up to the ridge and then contours along one side of the spine or the other to the hamlet of Asfodilitis. Have a look at the restored cisterns here before continuing as the views of Aegialis open out from the balcony path a fine ending and time for a drink in one of the bars on the front. (Medium-hard: 5 hrs, 15km, CUSs 800m) page 6/10

7 Travel Information ARRIVING BY AIR The best local airport is Naxos (flights from Athens only), followed by Santorini and Mykonos (2-3 hr ferries to Naxos). Intercontinental flights use Athens followed either by a 5 hr ferry or a 30 minute flight to Naxos. Note that with the exception of Athens and Naxos, flights tend to start in May and end in October. Outside this period walkers will have to go via Athens. Morning arrivals at any airport should link up with an afternoon ferry, but it is important to check ferry timetables and transfer arrangements with On Foot before formulating the structure of the holiday, which may involve an overnight stay on one of the islands or in Athens. This is even more likely on the return from Amorgos (if staying there). It is best to build enough time into your holiday schedule to allow for this, then agree plans with On Foot. Remember that a ferry journey, even a long one, can be seen as part of the holiday the sight of Amorgos in the morning mist or the sunset over Naxos is memorable. Flight information can change rapidly and not all flights run daily. Please do check directly with the airlines websites or Skyscanner (see below) before finalising any booking with us. Do not book your flights until we have confirmed that we have provisionally reserved accommodation for you. For up-to-date schedules and flights from all airports check Skyscanner. Getting to the start of the walk The normal order is Naxos followed by Amorgos, but it is vital to discuss your travel plans with On Foot first. Please note that Amorgos is accessed by ferry only (none on Sundays). As you will not (normally) travel with a car, it is not necessary to pre-book ferries, and there are ticket offices in every port. Schedules can be checked on or at All return journeys from Amorgos involve a change of ferry on Naxos (1-2 daily (not Sunday), 2-3 hrs, 12), except for Piraeus (Athens) (see below). NAXOS AIRPORT The airport is located a short local taxi ride from the town and port. SANTORINI AIRPORT: Taxis are normally available at the airport or can be called on arrival. Journey time to port approximately 20 minutes (around 25). Ferries to/from Naxos 3-6 daily, 1¼ hrs- 2¼hrs, Return from Amorgos via Naxos. page 7/10

8 MYKONOS AIRPORT: Taxis are normally available at the airport or can be called on arrival. Journey time to port approximately 20 minutes (around 25). Ferries to/from Naxos 2-3 daily, 1 hr 1½ hrs, ATHENS AIRPORT: Metro to Piraeus port (one change) or direct bus, 1½ hrs, c. 10. Ferries to/from Naxos 2-5 daily, 3½ hrs 5½ hrs, Return to Piraeus direct from Amorgos 1-2 daily (not Sunday), 8-9 hrs, 36. OR bus or local taxi to Rafina port 40 mins; high season ferries and hydrofoils to/from Naxos. On arrival at Naxos port you may be met (Venetiko Apartments) and walked to the hotel, or local taxis are available from the rank (max fare 10). On Amorgos, transfers from Aegiali port are free. From Katapola port, 5 pp. Full transfer advice, including timetables, is provided in your Walkers Pack. Where You'll Stay The standard accommodation on the two island is homely and authentic, family run. Venetiko in Naxos is accommodation only, so you have the run of the cafés for breakfast, while Askas on Amorgos provides a real family experience and an excellent breakfast (they also do evening meals if you can t drag yourself into the village!). Our upgrade on Naxos only is carefully chosen, should you prefer a little more comfort the Nissaki Beach Hotel which, in the bathing season, is a mite hedonistic. Night 1, 2, 3 & 4 Naxos Town Venetiko apartments (Accommodation only) Charming courtyard of traditional rooms in the heart of the old town. page 8/10

9 Night 1, 2, 3 & 4(Upgrade) Naxos Town Nissaki Beach Hotel (B&B) Beach-located hotel of quality on the edge of the town. Night 5, 6 & 7 Amorgos (Aegialis) Askas Pension (B&B) Friendly, family run pension with modern amenities close to the beach. Prices Price: 455 Total 7 nights in double/twin room, with 3 breakfasts (many local cafés on other nights); full Walkers Pack with route directions, maps, transfer and background information; local telephone support. Transfers to and between islands, local buses and taxis (if needed) excluded. All prices are per person unless otherwise indicated, and are based on a standard booking in May. Prices may vary seasonally and a fixed price will be given to you before you commit. Single Room Supplement (SRS): From 130 Lone Traveller Additional Supplement (LTAS) 60 Maximum party size: 10 Shorter breaks prices available on request. page 9/10

10 Add Ons Additional nights in any accommodation, and upgrade hotels on Naxos: Contact On Foot Holidays Sending Walkers Packs to addresses outside the UK and Ireland: (per pack, location dependent) On Foot Holidays Griffin House, Malthouse Lane, Salisbury, SP2 7RF, United Kingdom Telephone: +44 (0) page 10/10