Route 14. From Alcoy to La Vila Joiosa. From the Sierra de Aitana to the Serra Gelada through ancient Arabic lands

Transcription

1 RUTA14y15_142a172_da OK ingles.qxp:rutas 15/07/10 8:19 Página 142 From the Sierra de Aitana to the Serra Gelada through ancient Arabic lands Route 14 From Alcoy to La Vila Joiosa La Serreta Castle: Castillo de Penella Paraje del Salt Ravine: Barranc dels Horts de Marra Mount: Sierra del Rontonar Summit: Cumbre del Rontanar Castle: Castillo de Benifallim Hermitage: Ermita de Torresena Castle: Castillo de Penáguila Ares del Bosc Aitana Farm: Partida de Xarquera Waterspout: Font del Arbre Waterspout: Font del Espinal Waterspout: Font de Forata Castle: El Castell de Guadalest Caserío de Abdet Waterspout: Fuente de Partagat 19 Castle: Castillo de Sella 20 Reservoir: Embalse de Guadalest 21 Waterspout: Font de Les Salines 22 Pas del Comptador 23 Waterspout: Fuentes del Algar 24 Fortress: Fort de Bèrnia 25 Mount: Puig Campana 26 La Lloma 27 Beach: Playa de la Olla 28 Beaches: Playas del Cap Blanch Altea la Vella Beach: Playa de l Albir Mount: Serra Gelada Islet: Illeta de l Olla Islet: Islote de Benidorm Racó de l Oix Beach: Playa de Poniente Theme Park: Parque temático Terra Mítica 37 Beach: Playa de Levante 38 Beach: Playa de la Vila Joiosa

2 El Castell de Guadalest 38º 40' 61'' N 0º 11' 9'' W This route will allow us to explore the Aitana sierra and the spectacular valleys with beautiful towns nestling on their north-facing slopes. Former land of Moors [postreconquest Arabs converted to Christianity], in this territory it is noticeable how the former inhabitants of this territory exploited nature in the most beneficial and respectful way: terraces of dry-stone walling and irrigation channels to irrigate just a few metres of places where nature is the undisputed powerful queen. From the Aitana sierra we have spectacular views that enable us to see, among other places, our next destination: the Bèrnia sierra. We will be left in wonder and delight getting to know these spots and, if the heat gets too much, we will visit the waterspouts of the Fuentes de Algar, a real natural water park in the Region of Valencia. Travelling through La Marina Baixa we will reach the coast, where the city of Altea awaits, muse of artists and craftworkers. From this point, and until we reach Benidorm, the end of our route, we will pass though the Serra Gelada, a coastal sierra with beautiful cliffs and magical small islands just off the coast: a spectacular route through mountains and along the coast that will allow us, in a few short kilometres, to pass through places as different as the Aitana sierra and Benidorm, a capital of tourism. From Alcoy to Benifallim over the hillsides of the Hontonar sierra From Alcoy to Benilloba we will have to take the CV-70. Along this road, close to Alcoy, we are accompanied by the pleasant pinewood of the Serreta and, when the landscape changes and on the slopes of the ravines we glimpse crops of almonds and olives, vines and cereals, on our left we will discover Penella castle, belonging to the municipal district of Cocentaina. Penella castle, situated in a delightful setting, is a 13th century Spanish construction located on the Cerro de Sant Cristòfol. A few kilometres further on we come to the town of Benilloba. This former Arab hamlet responds to that with its steep, narrow streets surrounded by whitewashed houses. Benilloba is a rich and prosperous town, forged in the heat of the powerful textile industry of the region to which it belongs: El Comtat. We notice in this municipality the delightful places there are around it. These spots are the result of the river Frainós running by the town. So, we will visit the spot named Salt [from the Spanish for leap, not the English word!], where there are remains of an Arab aqueduct, the course of which is now covered under a green mantle. Following the river we will

3 Route 14 From Alcoy to Vila Joiosa Over the hillsides of the Aitana sierra on the way to El Castell de Guadalest El Castell de Guadalest 38º 40' 64'' N 0º 11' 9'' W reach the Cuixot ravine, where we find the remains of an arch-shaped bridge of Arabic origin. From Benilloba we head along the CV-787 as far as Benifallim, on a continuous uphill climb along the length of the Horts de Marra ravine. Having reached the tiny town of Benifallim, its single-storey buildings with wrought iron grilles immediately attract our attention. At the foot of the Rontanar sierra, in this space next to the village, we find spots with abundant masses of Holm oaks and pines, so much so that the place has been declared a microreserve for its flora. At Benifallim, another of the outstanding features is the castle, set on a rocky ridge commanding a very wide visual domain that takes in the castles of Cocentaina, Penelles, Penáguila and La Costurera. From the town we can also make an excursion taking us to the summit of the Rontanar, at 1,330 metres, following a road that will take us past the great snowstorage pit of this sierra. Our next destination is Penàguila. From Benifallim we will have to take the CV-785 to reach this municipality. On the way we will find ourselves in the harmonious and relaxing spot formed by the farmstead, the hermitage and the Sena tower. Having arrived at Penàguilar, its rich architectural heritage gives the impression that the town has been a privileged witness to the history of this area. After the conquest by Jaume I, at Penàguila, due to the abuses from the Spaniards, the Moors of the area rebelled. The Arab leader Al Azraq, who dominated the Gallinera valley came to the aid of the infuriated rebels although the Spaniards eventually put down the rebellion and Al Azraq died in Alcoy in Due to Penàgulla s strategic importance, Pere III of Aragon did not restrict himself to facilitating the arrival of Spanish colonists, but rather, in 1278, when he signed Penàgulla s town charter, he obliged the hundred Spanish colonists by contract to look after the castle and build houses and defensive walls around it. Later, Penàgulla was besieged in 1356 by the troops of Pedro I, the Cruel, who ended up being defeated, which made the king of Aragon concede Penàguilar the right to be called Villa Real [Royal Town] and to have a vote in the courts. As a royal town, Penàguilar sheltered the houses of the nobles of different dominions of towns in the region and so, we can find different houses of the nobility, of great architectural and heritage value. Of the former defensive wall, only a few towers and portals remain, outstanding amongst which is, undoubtedly, El Portalet, a curious gate that impeded entry into the town in a straight line, obliging those entering to make two right-angled turns, thus increasing control over the people who entered. The castle, for its part, declared of Cultural Interest, is in a half-ruined state. In the vicinity of its urban centre we will visit the palace and Garden of Saints with its museum-house. This is a

4 romantic garden which displays within its interior botanical species unique in the area and a charming treelined maze. We leave Penàguilar on the CV-781 in the direction of Alcoleja and, before reaching this town, at the point where the road divides and becomes the CV-770, on a there and back stretch we will make a visit to the peaceful and beautiful town of Benasau. Walking around the streets with their harmonious vernacular architecture, we come to the palace-tower of the Barons of Finestrat, declared a Place of Cultural Interest. Within its municipal boundary, we come to the town of Ares del Bosc, where the 16th century palace of the Marquises of Bosc is situated. In the environs we will find the remains of what was the Arab town of Frainos, abandoned in Having returned to our route, we come to Alcoleja where we are pleasantly surprised by the ruggedness of its mountainous setting, at the foot of the Aitana sierra, with a landscape dominated by crops of olives and almonds, that drive the economy of this mountainous population. Its closeness to the Aitana sierra turns it into one of the favourite access points for hikers to set out on the different routes there are in the sierra. Within the town we will visit the mediaeval part of the village, presided over by the remains of the Marquis of Malferit s palace. The most outstanding features of this palatial house are the unusual tower adjoining the building, in a good state of conservation, and the great gateway with a semi-circular arch. From Alcoleja we will take a pleasant quiet rural road. On this stretch we will visit the town of Beniafé. We will pass through the district of Xarquera, negotiating next a narrow pass at over a thousand metres above sea level. Once we have reached the top of this hard climb, the views that open out before us are impressive. Confrides Castle presents itself on a seemingly inaccessible hill, and the Guadalest valley and some of the hamlets that shape it today are glimpsed in the incomparable natural setting of the Aitana sierra. And we say they shape it today, given that before the expulsion of the Moors there were twenty centres of habitation in the valley, and in present times there are only six: Confrides, Abdet, Benifató, Beniardà, Benimantell and Guadalest castle. The repopulation of the area after the expulsion of the Moors in 1609 was slow and scant and the Arab traces are perceived in modern times in the water channels and ways in which the springs are made use of. These are intelligent water management systems that are today part of a living cultural landscape; small dams, irrigation ditches, public washing places, watering pools, cisterns, waterwheels We can find these demonstrations of Arab engineering both in the mountain areas (with public waterspouts such as those of Forata, Arbre, Espinal, Partagat, Xorrets, Salines or Molí) and in the urban areas. They are a singular human work and heritage to make beneficial use of water, in a readily accessible and convenient way. We can also see signs of the Moors passage, in the terraces, crops in impossible places that form spots of unique beauty, such as when the green of the olives blends with the whitey-grey of the limestone rocks. In the area of the shaded side of the Sierra Aitana 38º 38' 61'' N 0º 10' 24'' W

5 Route 14 From Alcoy to Vila Joiosa Sierra Aitana 38º 38' 61'' N 0º 10' 24'' W Aitana sierra, on the different plains we come across at great altitudes, farmsteads are situated, hundreds of years old. They are the nerve centre of an agrarian life formed by fields of crops worked in dry-stone walling. Along with the farmsteads, the Aitana sierra does not lack more modest constructions either, like the corrals, houses, lambing sheds or refuges. Another unequivocal sign of the passage of the Moors through this area are the spectacular castles, like that of Confrides, already mentioned, and those of El Castell de Guadalest or Sella, which had the function of refuges, lookouts and the defence of the outlying hamlets. We now arrive at the town of Confrides, former settlement of Aljófar, already in the interior of La Marina Baixa region and in the upper part of the Guadalest valley. It has, therefore, the dual function of being the first mountain village, but also the last of La Marina. At the town s plaza we find the symbol of Confrides, a magnificent walnut tree hundreds of years old. As we leave for Benifato, on the left we will see the small and charming hamlet of Caserio de Abdet. Here we can see the first trinquets [where a local traditional ball game was played] in the Region of Valencia, dating from This trinquet is, moreover, unique in that its particular dimensions are such that it is possible to play the historic game of pilota: Pilota grossa. The trinquet was remodelled in Once at Benifató, what most attracts our attention in this town is the parish church of Sant Miquel, with its original belfry set apart from the rest of the building. From Benifató, we will get to the Aitana sierra along a road that leads to the Fuente de Partagat and its recreational area. This is a good place to mention that the Aitana sierra, with its 1,558 metres above sea level, is the highest spot of the mountains in the south of the Region of Valencia. Close by, almost an extension of Aitana, the 1,410 metres of the Puig Campana make it the highest close to the coastline of the entire Valencian coast. The Aitana sierra stretches out over an area of approximately two thousand hectares. In the landscape of the sierra rocks and boulders are overwhelmingly predominant. What is most eye-catching about the summits of Aitaina are the sheer cliff-like rock walls caused by a fault running west to east and which has spectacularly split the anticline that forms the sierra, as we can splendidly see from the Fuente de Partagat. From there, climbing up a little further, we will reach the Simas del Partagat: huge rock formations, hanging over a void and split apart with huge fissures over eighty metres deep, a breath taking natural spectacle that also includes the quirky rock formation of the Penya Forata. Incredibly from the Simas del Partagat, on clear days, we can enjoy wide panoramic views that enable us, at a glance, to make out without any difficulty almost the entire territory of Valencia. Southwards there is the whole of the coast between the Penyal d Ifac and the Orihuela sierra; only Benidorm remains hidden by the impressive limestone mass of Puig Campana. To the east the urbanisations along the coast, the Bèrnia sierra, the Montgó and, if we look really keenly, the island of Ibiza. To the north, this panoramic view is closed by the unsurpassable sierras of La Serrella and Alfaro, between which we glimpse the gulf of Valencia and the sierras of the interior of Castellón. Away to the west, above all, the summit of Montcabrer stands out. The potential vegetation in the area is the Holm oak, although today they only remain in isolated patches. The most attractive to travellers are the bush or tree varieties that develop in humid spots, as is the case of yew, ash and Montpellier maple. We highlight this last species, of which we find numerous examples in the vicinity of the Fuente de Partagat, as it is one of the southernmost outposts of the species on the peninsula. Walking through the sierra it is possible to enjoy the

6 presence of birds of prey like the peregrine falcon, golden eagle and Bonelli s eagle. Spotting mammals is more complicated, since the possibilities of coming across species like the mountain cat, marten, fox, wild boar or badger are unlikely, as they are nocturnal. Easier to see might be the hedgehog, wild rabbit, hares and rats, as well as a whole series of reptiles like the ladder snake, the Montpellier snake, and the snub-nosed viper [none of which are dangerous]. In the Aitana sierra we can also come across the snow pits (in this area called pous de neu ), so characteristic of the Alicante mountains. After having got to know the Aitana sierra and returning to Benifato, we now head for the village of Beniardá. We discover there a small town, situated almost on the shores of the Guadalest reservoir. Like the rest of the towns in the valley, it presents streets set out at the service, in its time, of a mediaeval society in which the location, structure and materials, not only served for living comfortably - narrow streets cool in summer, walls of limestone and clay - but they also served as defensive lookouts and to watch over the crops and livestock. The most attractive activity we can undertake in Benardña is, perhaps, to take a stroll around the environs of the Guadalest reservoir between peaceful fields of olive and almond trees. We must also visit the Font Vella, with four waterspouts, surrounded by strong, fat, ancient eucalyptus trees giving shade to the whole of the little plaza where there is also a former public washing place. Another place of interest is the Font de la Mesquita, which is set in the environs of where it is believed the second largest Mosque in Al-Andalus was sited. From Beniardá we now head for the next town of Benimantell. The steep streets of this town have their most representative example in the Trencacames (leg breaker), a street so named for its steepness. We reach the parish church dedicated to San Vicente Mártir, which is a building of architectural interest for having a curiously hexagonal tower. From this town we can undertake outings to various spots within its municipal boundary. We can visit different public waterspouts like the Font Major, Pi, Salines or that of Molí, with a very well-appointed recreational area. Also interesting are the ruins of the castle on the Peña del Castellet, declared a Place of Cultural Interest. Before heading for the municipality of El Castell de Guadalest we should visit the Pas de Comptador, on the Aitana sierra, thus named because it was so narrow the shepherds could count their sheep through it one by one. From El Castell de Guadalest s castle to the Fortress of the Serra de Bèrnia Shortly after leaving Benimantell we enter El Castell de Guadalest. Historical capital of the valley, the whole village has been declared a Place of Cultural Interest. This town is reached through a natural opening in the mountain, on which the municipality is situated. It is a hill over five hundred metres high on which the town sits. The most outstanding feature of the village, and not just for being on the highest rock of the town, is undoubtedly the castle of Sant Josep, from where there are some extremely beautiful panoramic views of the area. The castle played a very important role throughout the Middle Ages and in modern times, thanks to its strategic position. The earthquakes in 1644 and 1748, and being blown up in 1708 during the War of Succession were responsible for its destruction. There is another castle in the town of El Castell de Guadalest, that of Alcozaiba, raised by the Arabs in the 11th century, and of which in present times only a half ruined tower remains. In the old quarter we find different houses of the nobility of great architectural Almond trees in Valle de Guadalest 38º 39' 61'' N 0º 12' 1'' W

7 Route 14 From Alcoy to Vila Joiosa Polop 38º 37' 08'' N 0º 7' 53'' E interest, amongst which stands out that of the Orduña family, former lords of the valley, which have various floors arranged according to the level of the mountain on which they are situated. In El Castell de Guadalest, it is striking how many museums there are in a small village. Thus we can visit the museum of instruments of torture, the municipal museum Casa Orduña, the museum of micro-miniatures, the Guadalest ethnological museum, the micro-gigantic museum (of miniatures and gigantic sculptures), the museum of nativity scenes and dolls houses, the historical vehicle museum, and the Ribera Girona museum. Nowadays El Castell de Guadalest has become an icon of La Marina Baixa tourism as a supplementary offer to the coastal sun and beach tourism. Its fame is more than deserved given its history, architectural heritage, its daring and defensive location on some inaccessible crags over five hundred metres high and the total conversion to tourism of its traditional agrarian economy. As we come down from El Castell de Guadalest towards Callosa d en Sarrià, we can observe how all types of crops are grown up the lower slopes of the Aitana, from oranges in the southern and lower areas of the Puig Campana and Palop, passing to loquats or Japanese medlar, and then on the steepest mountain slopes, olives and almonds. The magnificent natural and cultural landscapes of these sierras have in recent years been at the centre of attention of the more sensitive foreigners and lovers of our cultural heritage. The result is a tendency towards cultural and environmental tourism, which has given rise to the appearance of new economic activities that we could include in what is generically referred to as rural tourism. This dedication to cultural tourism has encouraged the recuperation of a large part of the dwellings of the rural world not only in the built-up areas, but also in the rest of the territory of each municipal district. The restoration of buildings has a variety of ends that enrich the resulting new cultural landscape: rural hostels, mountain hotels, refuges or dwellings of new residents in the area, from the townspeople retiring and returning to their roots, passing through the children of émigrés of the 1960s and 70s who return or remain in the town, and ending up with the British, German or French people who have discovered their own personal paradises in the mountains of the two marine provinces. Even a farmstead located in the vicinity of Tudons harbour has been converted into an art gallery. So, the hotel and catering trade, accommodation, handcrafts, the gathering of aromatic herbs all are the modern work and activities in the Aitana-Puig Campana area that have given a new character and reality to some mountains that seemed abandoned to their fate at the beginning of the 70s, when tourism was concentrated along the coastal strip. Our route now reaches Callosa d en Sarrià. This town was famous for its historical disputes over property rights and municipal boundaries, due to the richness of its waters, since Callosa is surrounded by the rivers Guadalest, Bolulla and Algar. Such abundance of water and a benign climate has favoured the production, on the classic terraces, of Mediterranean crops such as almonds and grapes, and of tropical fruit such as kiwi, mango and,

8 above all, the loquat. Callosa produces over half of the total national production of loquat, which has been granted a Denomination of Origin for the entire area. Today Callosa is a beautiful, white and ochre-coloured city with an old quarter in which its church of San Juan Bautista can be visited, with an original neoclassical portal, as well as the Portal or mediaeval arched gateway that gave access to the mediaeval town, or again, the remains of the mediaeval wall situated above all at the Plaza del Castell, originally the site of the feudal lord s residence. Within the municipal boundary of Callosa d en Sarriá we find two hits with Valencian tourism: the Fuentes del Algar and the Fort de Bèrnia. To reach the Fuentes del Algar there is a three-kilometre stretch there and back from our main route. So we head for the famous gushing waters of the river Algar, a leafy and exuberant spot, formed by the river Algar at the foot of the Bèrnia sierra: waterfalls and spectacular natural pools of crystal clear water surrounded by exuberant vegetation. Visitors must be aware that in order to enjoy this impressive spot of nature they must pay a small admission fee. In exchange, at the Fuentes del Alagar you will find all types of services. In the vicinity of the Fuentes del Algar a path leads up to the defiant summits of the Bèrnia sierra. A circular route through this sierra and returning to the Fuentes del Algar, could take some six hours of stiff walking. The outing is more than worth the trouble. The path goes up dizzyingly until it reaches the Xaló pass. Here the circular route begins which will take us, in the first place, to the Casas de Bèrnia. On the way there the Bèrnia sierra surprises us, with the image of a shaded ravine with nearly vertical walls that plummet dizzyingly: a lonely, spot worthy of the high mountain, extremely spectacular. Leaving behind the Casas de Bèrnia, we see that the impregnable appearance would have been more real in mediaeval times, when the social marginalisation of the Moors turned the crags and gravel pits into a subversive refuge hard to control. Today, however, Bèrnia offers us no more than motives, sites of both natural and cultural heritagefor the intense enjoyment of a surprising mountainous area. There is only one waterspout on the circular route, at Cabanes, so it will be necessary to take water and remember to refill flasks. The steep incline opens up an amazing landscape at our feet. We now head for the Forat de Bènia along a delightful path, embedded in the steep slope, from where we can appreciate spectacular crests of stone that crown the sierra. Having reached the Forat de Bèrnia we will realise that we are looking at one of the most impressive caprices of nature existing in the Region of Valencia. El Forat de Bèrnia is a tunnel formed without human assistance which provides a perfect connection between the shady side of the sierra and the sunny face. It is also the most original and unusual means of communication between the regions of La Marina Alta and La Marina Baixa. Given that it is not very high, you have to go through the Forat crouching down. The narrow opening we enter on the shady side opens out Serra Gelada 38º 31' 82'' N 0º 5' 43'' W

9 Route 14 From Alcoy to Vila Joiosa into a great cave which, like a balcony, leaves all of La Marina Baixa at our feet. On a clear day we will be able to see the Serra Gelada, Alacant castle, Tabarca island and Santa Pola cape all stand out clearly. Looking inland we glimpse other mountainous balconies that, like Bèrnia, look toward the sea: Cabeçó d Or, Peña de Migdia, Sierra del Maigmó, Sierra de Crevillent Further inland, the most emblematic mountains of these regions dominate the landscape: Puig Campana, Aitana, Serrella and Montecabrer. After the Forat, the path heads for the Fort de Bèrnia, witness to one of the darkest chapters in the history of the Region of Valencia. In the year 1562 Felipe II ordered the construction on the southern slope of the sierra what was named Fort de Bèrnia. The aim of the building was, on the one hand, to prevent Moorish rebellions, and on the other, to defend the coast against the frequent Berber pirate attacks. During the Moorish rebellion of 1609 the rebels took charge of the fort, entrenching themselves in it for a year until, exhausted and demoralised, they preferred to die throwing themselves over the precipices of the sierra rather than surrender and be expelled. As from 1612 it started to be dismantled, since provisioning it was very complicated due to its remote location and the Spanish Moors had already been expelled. Nowadays numerous remains of the fort may be observed: stretches of defensive wall, vaulted constructions, moats and towers of the Fort. After our look around the Fort de Bèrnia, the road brings us back to the Xaló pass and, from there, to the Fuentes del Algar. Returning this way to Callosa d en Sarrià, we resume our route in the direction of Polop. From Callosa d en Sarrià to l Alfàs del Pi amongst loquats We arrive in Polop through a traditional rural landscape with agriculture which, among the almond, olive and loquat trees, allows citrus crops to be glimpsed. Polop was the historic capital of La Marina Baixa. The town is found situated at the foot of Mount Ponoig, 1,181 metres high, on a hill, surrounding its castle. Polop castle is of Arab origin and was built at the beginning of the 12th century. It was an important stronghold with great strategic value in the region but, because of the conflicts in which it played a leading role, the constructions in its interior were pulled down, the materials also being made use of for the building of the neighbouring hermitage. Among the aforementioned conflicts, it is worth summarising the occurrence during the Germanías, when a new Moorish rebellion had its centre at Polop castle, where the rebels fortified themselves until they were defeated by lies and trickery and practically massacred. After wandering around the village of Polop and discovering its pretty vernacular architecture, we head for the village of La Nucia, just a kilometre away. La Nucia, like nearly all the hamlets in the area, was originally an Arab alquería or country estate. The surrounding landscape shows an original topography for the presence of various hills that have been made use of for the location of different urban developments. In La Nucia, the influence of coastal tourism has cornered its former agricultural activity. Its urban layout stretches quite harmoniously over an agreeable plain at the foot of the Cerros de les Forques. Walking through the streets of La Nucia, we come across the Seu Unversitària, a building which was formerly the San Rafael state school, situated right in the urban centre and opened in The building was altered and extended in 2007, to become the permanent seat of La Universitat d Alicant in La Nucia. The project, designed by the local architect José Campos Rosique, represents a bold bid to reconcile the old with the new and is destined to become a reference point for the whole region. From La Nucia we reach Altea by means of the CV-760; nevertheless, those who prefer the peace and quiet of a cycle ride or a walk may reach Altea through rural landscapes by means of agricultural roads such as that of La Lloma. If El Castell de Guadalest is an icon of tourism in the mountain region of La Marina Baixa, the cupola of the church of

10 Altea, all in blue with white geometrical decoration, crowing the hill of the old quarter, is that of the coast; not in vain is it known as the cupola of the Mediterranean. The quietness of the old quarter has for decades, made Altea a place for artists and craftspeople to visit and live: Eberhard Schlotter, Rafael Alberti, Vicente Blasco Ibáñez, and Josh Rouse. In its urban layout of sheltered steep, narrow alleyways opening out every so often onto vantage points and tiny tree-lined squares, we come across the Galera tower, declared a Place of Cultural Interest. In spite of, or perhaps because of, its tourist renown, Altea has never stopped being a small fishing town with its white houses, flowers and cobbled streets. As if this were not enough, to the north the Bèrnia sierra creates a shield of solid rock, which prevents the cold winds and external influences from penetrating into the bay, creating a magical microclimate. If we move away from the urban centre towards the line of the coast, we must not miss the beautiful spots like those of the beaches of: La Roda, Cap Blanch, Cap Negret, Cala de Soio or Cala de la Olla. Or the gravel beach like La Barreta. On the other hand, at the foot of the Bèrnia sierra the original site of Altea. We refer to Altea la Vella. If we go there today, we can enjoy a close-knit centre of population with a beautiful Calvary [route with the Stations of the Cross] lined with eye-catching cypresses. After Altea our route makes its way in the direction of L Alfàs del Pi along peaceful rural roads of Arcs and Altea. L Alfàs del Pi has acquired international renown for its Film Festival held in July. At L Alfas del Pi we come across a curious detail and it is that more than half the population is foreign. In fact, L Alfàs del Pi has the second largest concentration of Norwegian citizens resident outside their country (London has the most). Two kilometres from L Alfàs del Pi, within its municipal boundary, we find l Albir beach, situated at the foot of the Serra Gelada. Continuing from l Albir beach in the direction of the lighthouse along the same coast, we come to a naturist beach with unrestricted access. From this beach an excursion sets out to l Albir along the old road, set out as an ecological route, offering recreational areas and magnificent panoramic views of the coast. Beside the lighthouse there is the Bombarda tower, declared a Place of Cultural Interest. We can also reach the summit of Serra Gelada by a well-signposted path. Benidorm 38º 32' 23'' N 0º 7' 74'' W

11 Route 14 From Alcoy to Vila Joiosa La Vila Joiosa 38º 30' 15.60" N 0º 13' 51.60" W Along the cliffs of the Serra Gelada, on the way to Benidorm and La Vila Joiosa The Serra Gelada is one of the most unusual nature parks in the Region of Valencia, being the first land and sea park in the territory. The Serra Gelada is a small mountainous range orientated northeast-southwest, separating the bays of Benidorm and Altea. It is characterized by its asymmetric shape which is obvious along the whole of its six-kilometre length. In addition, the group of various islets must be added, two within the municipal boundary of Benidorm (l Illa de Benidorm and l Illa Mijana), and two within the municipal boundary of Altea (l Olla and the tiny islet of La Galera). Within its waters we can find some of the most interesting and surprising areas of the entire peninsular coast of the Mediterranean, the most outstanding being extensive meadows of the protected sea grass known locally as Alguers (Posidonia oceanica) and rocky seabeds, such as La Llosa, with an exceptional biological diversity. The easiest and most direct way to get up the 435 metres to its summit is by taking the road that starts out from the water treatment plant, in the Pla del Cuartel district. Almost at the edge of the cliff there is a trig point, from where we can contemplate the majesty of these precipices, where examples of yellow-legged gulls flying hundreds of metres below us seem miniscule. The route over the sierra continues up and downhill, passing the ruins of a former coastguard house and a small water well on the watercourse. Halfway along we come to an area where there is a small stand of pines that will serve to rest in the shade, offering us a delightful view of l Illa Mitjana. The final stretch of scrubland that we will travel through passes over a high point where we can look, once again, at the cliffs. From this landmark on we have to watch out so as not to miss the path running through low vegetation or over bare rock. A few minutes later we reach a cross placed on top of the Racó de l Oix, where an asphalted track starts that leads to Benidorm. Travellers will have mixed feelings at the sight of Benidorm, but what is certain is that the Valencian tourist resort will not leave you indifferent. Its image is unmistakable as few others on the Valencian coast, not only for its model in height offered for tourism but also for the sheer amount on offer for leisure and the quality of its hotels. But above all for its weather, beaches and location, on the southern slope of the utterly beautiful Aitana sierra and the Puig Campana, which protect the city from the cold north winds. Benidorm is the town with most skyscrapers per inhabitant in the world and the second in the number of skyscrapers per square metre after Manhattan. What would be the tallest building in Spain, the Hotel Bali III, is in Benidorm, and is the tallest hotel in Europe. Also, building has begun on the tallest residential building in Europe, which will be called Intempo (200m). As well as skyscrapers, in Benidorm we ought to visit the vantage point on the Poniente beach with its balustrade of white stone. Away from the old quarter, the Aigüera green park is relevant, designed by the architect Ricardo Bofill, situated in the centre of the modern city. And all of that, without forgetting the numerous leisure parks like the Terra Mitica [land of myths] theme park or that of

12 Terra Natura [land of nature]. A pleasant stroll of two kilometres will enable us to look around the Levante beach and the peaceful Poniente beach. Both have assiduous visitors throughout the year. From Benidorm a nice boat trip can be taken to L Illa [the Isle of Benidorm], with exceptional flora and fauna on its sea beds. We leave Benidorm to head for Vila Joiosa. Having reached this city which closes our itinerary, we find ourselves in the historic and administrative capital of La Marina Baixa. It still maintains its ties with the sea, complementary to the tourist industry. In this sense we can enjoy the fish auctions in the afternoon, as well as the brightly coloured façades for the fishermen, in bygone times, to make out their homes from afar when out at sea. Other places we should visit in the Vila are the Casa Barbara, the Roman funeral tower of Hercules and the different beaches, of which we highlight the beaches del Centro, del Paradis, the little cove of Racó Conill, where scuba diving or naturism can be done, and the transparent water coves of Bol Nou and La Caleta. Practical information cooking in which other dishes stand out: gazpachos manchegos with pieces of game [rich stew with rabbit and chicken pieces cooked with tomatoes, nothing to do with the cold tomato soup gazpacho de Andaluz ], fraseures [meatballs], rice with rabbit, gazpacho tibero [from Tibi, with rabbit and partridge, tomatoes and mushrooms], llegum amb penques [pulses and vegetables], caragols [snails], minchos [unleavened bread with wheat and corn flour], coca de sardina and coca de cebolla [sardine and onion tarts]. Without forgetting the putxero amb tarongetes [stew and dumplings], and potaje [thick broth of vegetables and pulses]. On the coast we shall taste all kinds of rice dishes, especially with fish, like caldero [rice in fish broth] and arròs a banda - rice with good fish and seafood. Neither can we forget the oranges, grapefruits, mandarins and nisperos [loquats or Japanese medlar], which colour the costal landscapes on the fruit trees. Among the sweets that stand out are: torrat ensucrat [sugared pulses], brazo gitano [like a very fat Swiss roll], dulces sequillos [dry almond biscuits] and peladillas de l Alcoià [sugared almonds]. A special mention is deserved by the chocolate in Vila Joiosa. With regard to the fiestas, the splendour of the Moors and Christians is Fiestas, food and crafts The cuisine of these towns offers fish and rice dishes, more frequently the closer we get to the coast, and thick hearty stews in towns further inland. Inland and around Alcoy, dishes such as: pericana [cod and dried peppers], olleta [stew], bajoques farcidas [stuffed peppers], pastel de carne [meatloaf ], arròs caldós amb conill [rice in rabbit stock] and giraboix [cod, green beans and potato]. It is traditional Altea 38º 35' 92'' N 0º 3' 16'' W

13 Route 14 From Alcoy to Vila Joiosa Altea 38º 35' 91'' N 0º 3' 03'' W Altea 38º 35' 3'' N 0º 3' 21'' W a reference that cannot be missed on the festive calendar. The festivities of Sant Antoni, in January; the countless romerías [local pilgrimages and religious festivals] to the sanctuaries and hermitages in the area; carnivals [marking the start of Lent] in February; the feast days of the patron saints of every town and city; Holy Week; the Hogueras de Sant Joan [bonfires of St John] in June Of all the towns and cities through which the route passes, the celebrations of Benifallim stand out: on the first Sunday in September the festival of Pan Bendito [Holy Bread] is held, organised by the unmarried men, in which a procession of unmarried girls carry loaves of bread on their heads until they reach the church; in addition, other noteworthy fiestas are the Nit de l Olla [marking the start of the Moors and Christians festivities] in Benidorm in August; dances in honour of Sant Jaume, held on the 25th July and the Jesuset, on 24th December, in Callosa d en Sarrià; the landing of the Moor at the end of July or the maritime procession in honour of Mare de Déu del Carme in La Vila Joiosa; or the spectacular music and fireworks display at the castle of l Olla in Altea in August. With regard to handicrafts in the area of the route, bags and shopping baskets are made from palm leaves, as well as rope soled shoes from esparto or needle-grass, blankets, saddlebags, cardboard and glass boxes, crocheted and woollen shawls and hair adornments. All this without forgetting the embroidery and needlework, or the tanned sheepskin covered balls for Valencian pelota, and glass objects. A mention apart is deserved by the craft displays held regularly at Altea. Recommended time of year Any time of year is good for visiting, although during spring and autumn is best. In summer the hours around midday must be avoided. In autumn the fields of loquat trees colour the countryside with beautiful shades. The almond blossom between January and February, and cherry blossom at the beginning of March are also good times of year to undertake this route. Public transport The RENFE regional trains stop at Alcoy station for the start of the route. For the return, at Vila Joiosa we can take the narrow gauge railway of the FGV (Ferrocarriles de la Generalitat). Bicycles are transported free of charge on the aforementioned transport services. Recommendations In the case of wishing to travel the route just as it is set out in the guide, by bike or on foot, a word of warning: a mountain bike is best, or as a minimum, the hybrid type. We do not come across many public waterspouts to quench thirst and refresh oneself away from the urban centres, so we should fill up with water whenever we get the chance. Both the early hours of the day and at dusk are the times of day with the best light and most agreeable temperature. The trips on foot or by bike that are proposed for the sierras of Aitana, Bèrnia and Gelada demand a minimum state of fitness. If anyone wants to

14 make use of the car, on the tracks where it is possible to drive motor vehicles, the main track should never be left, as it is much better and more respectful to the environment. In order to get to know each area of nature we propose in greater detail, it is recommended that you leave the car parked somewhere safe and secure and undertake trips on foot. RECOMMENDED MAPS TO FOLLOW THE ROUTE CORRECTLY: National Geographic Institute: Scale 1:25,000, sheet numbers: 821-III and IV; 847-I, II and IV; 822- III; and 848-I and III. Further information: Information on regional and local trains: Renfe TOURIST INFO OFFICES FOR THE ROUTE: Alcoy C/ Sant Llorenç, Alcoy Tel Fax alcoi@touristinfo.net Altea C/ Sant Pere, Altea Tel Fax altea@touristinfo.net Benidorm-Autobuses Av. Comunidad Europea, s/n Benidorm Tel benidormestacion@touristinfo.net Benidorm-Centro Av. Martínez Alejos Benidorm Tel Fax benidorm@touristinfo.net Benidorm-Europa Av. Europa, s/n (crossing C/ Ibiza) Benidorm Tel benidormeuropa@touristinfo.net Benidorm-Rincón L Oix Av. Derramador, s/n (intersection C/ Gerona) Benidorm Tel Fax benidormrincon@touristinfo.net Callosa d En Sarrià C/ Sant Antoni, Callosa d`en Sarrià Tel Fax callosadensarria@touristinfo.net Castell de Guadalest Av. Alicante, s/n El Castell de Guadalest Tel Fax guadalest@touristinfo.net L Alfàs del Pi C/ Federico García Lorca, 11 (Town Hall ground floor) L'Alfàs del Pi Tel Fax alfasdelpi@touristinfo.net L Alfàs del Pi-Playa Paseo de las Estrellas., Platja de l Albir, L'Alfàs del Pi Tel Fax alfasplaya@touristinfo.net La Nucia Av. Marina Baixa, 1 - Parque de la Font de la Favara La Nucia Tel lanucia@costablanca.org La Vila Joiosa Av. País Valenciá, 10 bjo La Vila Joiosa Tel Fax lavilajoiosa@touristinfo.net La Vila Joiosa-La Cala Av. de los marineros, s/n La Vila Joiosa Tel Fax lacala_vila@touristinfo.net Polop de La Marina Av. Sagibarba, Polop Tel Fax ayto@polop.org