Notes from an Île Anglo-Normand Stan Lester s Jersey mini-guide 2013

Transcription

1 Notes from an Île Anglo-Normand Stan Lester s Jersey mini-guide 2013 Bonne Nuit Bay The Channel Island of Jersey lies not in the English Channel but in the Baie de St-Malo, barely fourteen miles from France. The island is about ten miles east to west by six north to south. St Helier, the capital and only substantial town, is on the south coast east of centre, and the main roads fan out from there and from the dual carriageway that runs west to St Aubin. The south coast is fairly built-up, with housing stretching from La Rocque in the island s southeastern corner to St Aubin west of centre, then on to St Brelade inland in the west. The north coast is wilder, with cliffs and the odd bay and little fishing harbour, something like a gentler version of the north coast of Cornwall. The east and west coasts are undramatic, the west dominated by the great sweep of St Ouen s Bay and the dunes behind, while the east is split roughly into two with Grouville Bay to the south of Gorey, and St Catherine s to the north. Inland the island is generally rural and has a pleasant homely feel, with a few semi-wooded valleys and the odd lake or reservoir. Some history and its consequences Jersey (like the other Channel Islands, or Ȋles Anglo- Normandes) was originally part of Normandy - before Normandy was part of France. Its connection with England began when Duke William of Normandy captured the English throne in When King John lost mainland Normandy to France, the islands remained loyal to him so they were the last vestiges of independent Normandy and they became allied to England rather than France. That s been the situation ever since, and Jersey acknowledges the Queen as Duke (of Normandy) but it isn t part of the UK or the EU; the island has its own parliament (the States of Jersey), chief minister, Bailiff (head of the judiciary), and (as a Crown dependency) Lieutenant-Governor. France tried to invade on several occasions, successfully for a time in 1461 but most recently in 1781 to be defeated by Major Peirson and his troops (look for the plaque next to the Peirson public house in Royal Square). The most recent invasion was of course by the German army, which occupied the Channel Islands in 1940 and left its mark among other things in the form of extensive concrete fortifications; the story is told in the Jersey War Tunnels. Modern Jersey is fairly cosmopolitan and in addition to the local Jèrriais and British incomers, counts people of French, Italian, Portuguese and Polish descent among its population. A curiosity in Jersey is that while many of the street names are bilingual, the two versions are often far from straight translations. King Street, for instance, is also known as Rue de la Derrière. This derives from an attempt to Anglicise the island, when not only were the streets renamed but strenuous efforts were made to replace the native Jèrriais (a relic of ancient Norman French) with English as the everyday language. Nowadays while the old tongue isn t totally dead, it s much less likely to be heard in the streets than Polish or Portuguese, surviving more in everyday words such as vraic (seaweed collected for use as fertiliser) and bannelais (twigs and leaves swept up from the streets). Incidentally, Jersey issues its own currency (including pound notes) and stamps. Sterling is accepted in the island, as is Guernsey money and sometimes euros, but Jersey currency isn t widely accepted in the UK. Jersey stamps are needed for all post from the island (and aren t interchangeable with Guernsey ones).

2 Transport If you re visiting between May and early October the buses are excellent and cover most of the island, fanning out from the bus station in St Helier. Several routes continue late into the evenings. The winter timetable is reduced, mainly to working hours. The main hire car outlets are at the airport and on the Esplanade (which is not as its name suggests on the sea front, but runs parallel with it some distance back). Hire costs are now on a par with the UK, as is the price of fuel. Incidentally Jersey and Guernsey have the most cars per head anywhere in Europe, though out of town the islands are very cycle-friendly. Parking in St Helier is usually paid for by a scratch card, bought in packs of ten from newsagents. There are far more free car parks out of town. Incidentally there are a few junctions where you are required to merge in turn - be careful if you are arriving at the junction at the same time as a vehicle from the other direction. Speed limits are 30mph in built-up areas, 15 or 20mph on green lanes, and 40mph where no limit is stated. Eating and drinking Royal Square, St Helier Jersey is full of restaurants, cafés and pubs, more than its size or population would warrant. To generalise they are not particularly cheap, and in town more often than not pubs are for drinking rather than eating - with a few exceptions. There s less real ale than in England, although the local Liberation IPA is worth trying. Elizabeth Castle There are plenty of restaurants both in town and around the island. My favourites include Moita s (formerly Casa Madeira) on the coast road in in Havre des Pas, with excellent Portuguese cuisine, De La Poste upstairs in The Precinct (French and Italian fusion), and Romana (Italian/pizza) in York Street. More good options in town can be found in Kensington Place, York Street and in the area around the covered market. St Helier Don t expect some sort of provincial Anglo-Norman market town St Helier is a scaled-down capital city. It s a bustling and cosmopolitan place with a lot of generic Continental influence, though the more recent style isn t particularly French. Some of the newer office blocks, entertainment and leisure complexes could have been imported straight from London, Bristol or Leeds, and the developments around the harbour are a jumble of 21stcentury bland. The recent conversion of the Liberty Wharf warehouses into a shopping and eating arcade (it also houses the bus station) is more imaginative, and the older parts of town are quite pleasant Royal Square is dignified and agreeable, the main shopping street and its offshoots are generally attractive, and there are some interesting backwaters around the indoor market. In St Helier there are plenty of cafés and coffee shops, many of them independent although a few of the chains are now appearing. If you want good ground coffee then try the two on Burrard Street: The Daily Grind (corner with New Street) and, open into the evening, Bean Around the World (corner with Halkett Place). Many of the town pubs are basically men s drinking dens, places to watch sport, or young and trendy bars. The Blue Note Bar (upstairs) and Bellini s (ground floor) in Hill Street is OK and there s often live music in the evening. So are the Peirson and the Cock & Bottle in Royal Square, which have plenty of outside seating; both also do food. One of the best real ale pubs is the excellent Lamplighter in Mulcaster Street; it also has a huge selection of whiskies, and serves basic bar snacks. The Dog and Sausage is a traditional town pub also with good beer. For food try Chamber s again in Mulcaster Street (basic pub menu but good food), the Adelphi in The Parade, or heading out of town the Blacksmith s Arms (part of the Oaklands Lodge Hotel) on Trinity Road. Liberation Square, St Helier The bulk of the town is contained within a square mile. The central area no longer has a sea front as such - the Esplanade is now landlocked as the commercial port, marina and apartment developments have extended seawards but the long sweep of St Aubin s Bay starts just west of the centre off the Esplanade, and on the other side of town is the long Havre des Pas and Grève d Azette sea front. A good way to approach Havre des Pas on foot is to take the coast road between the harbour and Fort Regent, turning off in front of the barracks and through La Collette gardens.

3 St Helier has several museums. Jersey Museum provides a worthwhile introduction to the history of the island, and also has a good café. The Maritime Museum is rather interesting and now includes the occupation tapestry. Elizabeth Castle, the offshore Elizabethan fort, also makes for an interesting visit and offers elevated views across St Aubin s Bay. There s a causeway at low water and transport is provided by amphibious vehicles when needed. The Victorian indoor market in Halkett Place fruit, vegetables, flowers, wine, cafés, shops of various kinds is definitely worth a look, as is the smaller and lower-key fish market behind it. Another venue that s worth a visit is Fort Regent, the last of Jersey s three great fortifications and now a leisure and entertainment centre. The main attractions are the walks around the battlements and the views across St Helier, St Aubin s Bay and Grève d Azette. Other than that St Helier has a good shopping centre, in the pedestrianised King St/Queen St and around, and a few reasonable green spaces - Howard Davis Park in the eastern part of town is an attractive traditional town park, part of a bequest by wealthy local sailor and businessman Thomas Davis in memory of his son who was killed in the First World War. Around the island St Aubin Jersey is a fairly densely-populated island although outside St Helier, St Brelade and the southern seaboard it has quite a rural feel. In general, look out for defensive towers built to repel the French, WWII fortifications built by the Germans to repel the British, and extensive sandbanks and reefs the beach-scape off the southeastern part of the island is decidedly lunar. (As a note of warning, the tidal range is up to 12m high and the incoming tide can outrun anyone trying to escape it forays out on the reefs need to be timed so that there is plenty of time to get back before high water). Starting from St Helier clockwise, the main road skirts the edge of St Aubin s Bay, passing the First Tower (a round tower erected as a defence against France) and the celebrated glass church (St Matthew s) designed by René Lalique. The attractive Waterworks Valley runs north from here. St Aubin is a small harbour that dries out from half-tide down. The village has several pubs and cafés as well as being a good starting-point for walks to La Corbière, Noirmont and St Brelade s Bay. A railway used to run from here to La Corbiere it s now a footpath, and some of the engine sheds and the platform at La Corbière are still there. St Aubin s Fort is connected to the shore at low tide and provides views of the harbour and village; the fort itself isn t open to the public. St Brelade s Bay St Brelade s Bay is supposedly one of Europe s finest beaches a slightly up-market version of the normal holiday beach with pleasant hotels and bars, and pine woods as a backdrop. There are good views and walks in the vicinity. St Brelade itself is now Jersey s second town, though it is pleasant and functional a detached suburb of St Helier rather than a place to head for in its own right. La Corbière is the island s south-western tip, with an iconic lighthouse on a rock that s accessible on foot at low water. The pub above the causeway is quite acceptable though I prefer the one to the north in La Pulente. Heading north St Ouen s Bay is a sweeping five-mile sandy beach on the west coast, backed at its southern end by inland sand dunes. The ruins of Grosnez Castle, small but atmospheric, guard the north-west corner of the island. Further around on the north coast is Grève de Lecq, a beach and tiny harbour with a good pub-restaurant and a café; it s worth a look on a stroll along the coast, as is nearby Plemont, but it is otherwise unremarkable. Further east Devil s Hole is a basin where the sea crashes through a hole in the rocks with a loud report at the right state of tide. It s reached by a cliff path, and well-signposted; look for the Devil in the pool. Wolf s Caves are situated further along the north coast, though at my last visit there were warning signs not to scale the cliffs down to them. Bonne Nuit Bay, Bouley Bay and Rozel are attractive harbours on the north coast, reached down steep and narrow approach roads; all are accessible by bus. Each has its distinctive character, but all three have single breakwaters that form harbours big enough for a small collection of fishing and leisure boats. Bonne Nuit has a café, Bouley a hotel-restaurant, and Rozel, which is a proper village, a selection of refreshment options. All provide good start or end points for coastal walks, although Bouley has a less frequent bus service. La Corbière

4 Gorey harbour and castle Continuing around Jersey s northeastern corner is the rather peaceful Fliquet Bay. A Jersey round tower, one of 31 towers built from 1779 onwards to guard against a French invasion, stands above the bay. A half-mile breakwater divides Fliquet from St Catherine s Bay; the latter was once going to be a major port for the British fleet, but after the northern wall had been built it was found that the harbour would be too shallow. Near the root of the breakwater is a turbot farm in an old German pillbox. St Catherine s Bay continues via Archirondel where there is another round tower (conspicuous in red and white) and a beach café. Had the harbour been complered, the southern wall would have started here. Gorey (Gouray on some maps) is home to the iconic Mont Orgueil Castle, started at the beginning of the 13th century and used with intervals of disrepair ever since. It was last restored in 2006 and is worth visiting for the well-interpreted history (and the views along the coast in both directions). Originally the island s main defence, the advent of cannon made it redundant as a fortification: it is overlooked by a neighbouring hill, which invaders would only need to capture in order to rain down artillery fire on to the keep. As well as the castle Gorey has an attractive harbour surrounded by cafés, bars and restaurants. While most visitors will associate Gorey with the harbour and castle, Gorey village itself is about half a mile inland and is worth a visit in its own right. It also houses the very well-presented Jersey Pottery, where potters can be seen at work. From Gorey the long sandy sweep of Grouville Bay stretches to the island s southeastern tip, Le Nez de la Rocque. La Rocque La Rocque itself is a small harbour formed by a single large breakwater. Go near low tide; the sea retreats nearly three miles out and the Icho Tower and Seymour Tower become accessible with care (seek local advice and perhaps a guide before exploring). Other than at high water it s possible to walk back along the beach to St Helier (somewhat improbably via Le Hocq, Le Croc and Le Dicq), but there s no coastal path so when the rocks are covered it means going behind the houses on to the road. Rozel Inland Jersey tends to be bucolic rather than scenic, with some pleasant walks to be found in areas such as the Grands Vaux, Waterworks Valley, Val de la Mare and the sand dunes behind St Ouen s Bay. There are several small and attractive villages, and the countryside is dotted liberally with imposing farmhouses and manors. Of the many attractions to be found in rural Jersey, three deserve a particular mention. Between Rozel and Trinity village is the Durrell Wildlife Park (Jersey Zoo), set up by the conservationist and prolific author Gerald Durrell to aid the conservation of endangered species; it is well-run and presented. Anyone interested in wartime Jersey should make a visit to the equally well-presented and fascinating Jersey war tunnels that penetrate deep into the hillside in St Lawrence. These were constructed by the German invaders as an inland base and later a hospital for the casualties expected from a British liberation effort that never came. The tunnels are now a museum and permanent exhibition about the island s occupation.

5 Les Mielles sand dunes and St Ouen s Bay Good bus services run to L Etacq, Grève de Lecq, Devil s Hole, Bonne Nuit, Rozel and Gorey, enabling a coast walk to be planned in several sections; unfortunately for car drivers there is no service that connects between these various points without going back to St Helier. From Rozel eastwards the path starts to become gentler, until at Gorey a level walk can be followed down to La Rocque and on to St Helier. Unfortunately at high tide the section from La Rocque to Grève d Azette involves walking along the road with only brief glimpses of the sea. St Aubin s and St Ouen s Bays also offer gentle strolling alongside (or across) the beach. La Hougue Bie Finally La Hougue Bie can be found on the Five Oaks to Gorey road, a prehistoric passage grave under a massive mound, now with a small museum and an underground bunker that has been converted to a monument to the forced labourers who lost their lives in Jersey during the Nazi occupation. Other prehistoric graves are located at Faldouet near Gorey, and Le Couperon on the north coast just east of Rozel. There isn t a continuous coastal path from St Aubin around the south-western part of the island, but a straightforward path runs inland along the old railway line from St Aubin to La Corbière. Alternatively a route can be followed that for the most part stays in sight of the sea: up to Noirmont and Portelet, then down to (and across) St Brelade s Bay, before following green lanes and paths to the island s southwestern tip. The Portelet area is ideal for strolling, with the Portelet Inn, car park and bus terminus conveniently sited at the centre. Walking Most of Jersey s recommended walks broadly follow the coast, with the most scenic (and strenuous) along the northern cliffs; the path continually rises and falls between clifftop and beach or valley. It s possible to do an energetic walk from L Etacq to St Catherine s or Gorey in a long day, but more sensible to break it into at least two (which also allows time to visit the beaches and harbours along the way). St Aubin s Bay (Noirmont top left) Waterworks Valley: Millbrook reservoir It s fairly easy to plan out inland walks on paths and green lanes, where necessary using the buses to connect start and finish or return to St Helier. I can recommend exploring the dunes backing St Ouen s Bay; the walk from Gorey to La Hougue Bie, also taking in the Faldouet dolmen; Waterworks Valley in St Lawrence (start from the bus stop at Carrefour Selous for a gentle downhill stroll, ideal on a hot day as there is plenty of shade); the Val de la Mare reservoir; and the Grands Vaux and Vallée des Vaux area north of St Helier. Pick up the local walks guide from the tourist office in Liberty Wharf for more suggestions, or invest in one of the walking guides such as Geoff Daniel s Landscapes of Jersey (see below).

6 Maps and guides The free map of Jersey and St Helier provided by the tourist information office is very adequate for car touring, cycling and walking on roads and green lanes. Walkers will find the Ordnance Survey/States of Jersey 1:25,000 map very useful, although currently it is out of print. Unlike in England the OS map does not distinguish rights of way; what looks like a footpath could be a farm track or private drive. Marmotiere in Les Ecrehou Offshore Jersey owns several offshore reefs, the largest of which are Les Minquiers (Minkies) well to the south and Les Écréhou to the north-east. Only a tiny proportion of these rocks remain above water at high tide, and although there are houses on a few of the islets they are basically fishermen s stores and holiday chalets. There are no official ferries local boats may be persuaded to go out to them for a fee, but they are really the preserve of fishermen and boat owners with good charts and local knowledge. A fast ferry runs at least once daily from St Helier to St Peter Port in Guernsey, and there is (usually) a seasonal service to Sark, which can otherwise be reached via Guernsey (as can the little island of Herm). Inter-island flights operate to Guernsey and from there to Alderney, and ferries run to Alderney, Carteret and St-Malo. Produce Jersey is probably most associated with creamy milk from the famed Jersey cows, and to a lesser extent with early potatoes (Jersey Royals). Dairy produce abounds including cream, yogurt, milk chocolates and a cream liqueur. There s also a local wine, though I haven t tried it so can t comment. Bear in mind that the island climate is not only milder than southern England, but it s better than much of northern France too. The covered market is a good place to sample the local produce from fruit and vegetables to cut flowers, and just behind it is the fish market: try shellfish of various kinds, turbot and bass. For non-edible souvenirs one of the most distinctive local products is Jersey pottery (in Gorey, and also available from its own shop in St Helier). Several cut flower outlets run postal services to the UK and beyond all year round. St Helier market The Insight Guide (the new one for Jersey, or older edition for the Channel Islands) gives a good overview of the island, and there is a smaller drab-looking volume by Sonia Hillsdon that explains much of the island s history and curiosities. For walking, Geoff Daniel s Landscapes of Jersey (published by Sunflower Books) and Paddy Dillon s Cicerone guide are highly recommended. Getting there St Helier marina with St Aubin s Bay in the background Daily or more frequent flights to Jersey are available from many UK airports including Exeter, Bristol, Bournemouth, Southampton, Gatwick and Aberdeen. Most are direct but a few stop in Guernsey. Considering the distance, services are not particularly cheap and Jersey can be considerably more expensive to visit from the UK than many destinations in mainland Europe. There are also flights connecting Jersey with Ireland, France, the Netherlands, Germany, Switzerland and Madeira. The ferry service from southern England is operated by Condor. Fast ferries ply from Weymouth and Poole, and there is a conventional ferry from Portsmouth via Guernsey. A car ferry also runs from St-Malo, and passenger ferry from Carteret. There are currently no plans to reinstate the summer passenger service that used to operate out of Torquay. Jersey is welcoming to visitors arriving in their own boats, with the main visitor facilities located in the St Helier marina close to the heart of the town. Alternative anchorages are available in Gorey (the only other official port of entry), St Aubin and St Catherine s, and the adventurous sailor in a suitable craft may be able to tie up and dry out in one of the smaller harbours, or (with suitable charts and tidal information) anchor in the Ecrehou or Minquiers. Jersey provides an excellent centre for exploring the Baie de St-Malo and the other Channel Islands provided the weather and tides are studied carefully. There are customs formalities to clear when arriving in Jersey, although these generally just involve filling out a form.

7 Where to stay Jersey has plenty of hotel and guest house accommodation, generally in the mid- and higher price ranges although rates tend to drop between October and April. Some self-catering accommodation is also available, again generally with an emphasis on the higher end of the price range. There are a few camp sites and two hostels, all outside St Helier. Caravans and camper vans can be brought into the island but they need a permit and are generally only allowed to make one return trip from the port to a recognised site. This guide and all pictures by Stan Lester. No responsibility is taken for the accuracy of the information provided. Copyright Stan Lester I won t recommend specific accommodation, as some of the places I have stayed in have since reverted to private houses, and on several of my visits I have been berthed in the marina. There is plenty of information on the Visit Jersey web site as well as on sites such as Tripadvisor and booking.com. Most of the accommodation on the island is at least fair. Be aware that some establishments are oriented towards families or (mainly older) visitors on all-inclusive packages, and particularly in town not all have parking. For visitors relying on the buses, St Helier is the obvious choice because it is the island s transport hub. However as mentioned elsewhere it s a bustling mini-city and may not suit everyone; an alternative is to stay on one of the frequent bus routes (e.g. to Gorey or St Aubin) which will allow easy access to town including in the evenings. Havre des Pas, an otherwise pleasant coastal area where a fair proportion of St Helier s accommodation is situated, is separated from the centre by Fort Regent; getting to the centre of town (and particularly the bus station) on foot means either a detour around one or other end of the hill or a walk through the road tunnel with its inevitable traffic fumes. Car drivers (and cyclists) may prefer to base themselves in a rural location or in one of the coastal villages such as St Brelade s Bay, Grève de Lecq, Bouley Bay or Rozel. The small size of the island means that almost anywhere makes a good touring base, and most (but not all) accommodation will be within a shortish walk of a small shop and a pub or restaurant. St Helier from St Aubin s Bay, with Fort Regent in the background