ROAD TRIPS BEST OF COLORADO DENVER TO SIX OF COLORADO'S NATIONAL PARK SITES AND BACK 1,130 miles

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1 ROAD TRIPS BEST OF COLORADO DENVER TO SIX OF COLORADO'S NATIONAL PARK SITES AND BACK 1,130 miles PHOTO COURTESY VISIT GRAND JUNCTION 20 ROCKY MOUNTAIN JOURNAL 2018

2 Best of Colorado Natural hot springs, high peaks and national park sites dominate this 1,130-mile tour through Colorado. F legendary hot springs and experience its adventure park. Continue west to the aweinspiring red-rock landscapes of the Colorado National Monument in Grand Junction. From there, experience incredible alpine scenery and swaths of agricultural land as you travel through Delta, Montrose and Ouray. Discover ancient history in Mesa Verde National Park and authentic towns like Cortez, Durango, South Fork and Alamosa along the way to Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve before heading to Arvada and ending in Denver. ew road trips take you past spectacular 14,000-foot peaks, soothing hot springs and fantastic historical towns like this Colorado loop. Start in Denver to sample the city's thriving art and food scene. Then head to the vibrant university town of Boulder and nearby Eldorado Canyon State Park. Next stop is Rocky Mountain National Park where wildlife and incredible hikes await. From there head west to the charming town of Grand Lake before heading west to Glenwood Springs to soak in the town's Rocky Mountain National Park Grand Lake COLORADO UT 70 Colorado National Monument Grand Junction 50 Glenwood Springs 70 Black Canyon Delta of The Gunnison National Park 285 PHOTO COURTESY VISIT GRAND JUNCTION 550 Cortez WINE COUNTRY IN GRAND VALLEY AZ Ouray Telluride Silverton South Fork Salida Great Sand Dunes National Park & Preserve Durango Mesa Verde National Park Fairplay 25 Montrose Canyon of The Ancients National Monument Leadville Sterling Lyons 76 Boulder 40 Keenesburg Winter Park Arvada Georgetown Denver 70 Dillon Dinosaur National Monument 160 Pagosa Springs Alamosa 25 NM MYROCKYMOUNTAINPARK.COM RMJ2018_RoadTrips_BestofCO_PROOF.indd /7/17 11:33 AM

3 ROAD TRIPS BEST OF COLORADO DENVER ATTRACTIONS Variable miles Mile-High Fun From fine art to trendy restaurants, Denver is continually evolving. UNION STATION Place Reason to Go Quirky Fact CLYFFORD STILL MUSEUM See the paintings of Abstract Expressionist Clyfford Still, one of the 20th century s most important painters. Before the museum opened in 2011, this private artist hid most of his work from public view for more than 30 years. COORS FIELD See a baseball game at 5,280 feet. Forty-fi ve miles of underground wiring under the fi eld melts snow. DENVER ART MUSEUM You ll be wowed by the interior and exterior of this architectural icon with an impressive collection and interesting exhibits. Free Family Backpacks full of artmaking supplies, games and puzzles keep kids busy. HISTORY COLORADO CENTER Visit this highly interactive, family-friendly museum that covers Colorado history with a hands-on approach. Feel the wind on your face as you virtually ski down Steamboat s famed Howelsen Hill ski jump. DENVER ZOO UNION STATION See rare and endangered animals. Beautifully restored in 2014, it s the best train station lobby to have a cocktail. Trendy restaurants surround it. In the Meet and Greet program, you can touch a rhino and feed a giraffe. A nod to urban beekeeping, there are four beehives on the roof. PHOTO BY SHUTTERSTOCK 22 ROCKY MOUNTAIN JOURNAL 2018

4 PHOTOS BY SHUTTERSTOCK (MOOSE), DEPOSIT (ELDORADO) THE WALDEN OF THE WEST Looking to escape the crowds after you visit Rocky Mountain National Park? Head to State Forest State Park in Walden, an hour and 30 minutes from Grand Lake. Alpine lakes, peaks that stretch to the sky and a mixture of yurt and cabin rentals await. Hike less than a mile to Lake Agnes, an alpine lake filled with stunning turquoise waters. There's actually an island in the middle of it. Along the way, keep your eyes peeled for moose. The North Park area, where the park is located, is considered Colorado s "moose capital" with more than 600 of the large animals living here. Stop at the Moose Visitor Center for maps, information and to view interpretive displays. Learn more at cpw.state.co.us. World-Class Views Stop in Eldorado Canyon State Park outside of Boulder. When you are hiking in the solitude-filled Eldorado Canyon State Park, it s hard to believe you are just a couple miles from Boulder, a thriving university town filled with a vibrant downtown and restaurants catering to foodies. A magnet for climbers from around the world, Eldorado features jaw-dropping cliffs that soar into the blue sky. As you gaze at the walls above you, you ll start to spot tiny, bright-colored figures climbing the park s 500-plus climbing routes. Bring a picnic here [two grocery stores are 6 miles away, Lucky s Market and King Soopers] and sit alongside South Boulder Creek to gaze up at the climbers. Or cast your line in the creek in search of brown and rainbow trout. Then explore the trails. Fowler Trail is an easy hike while the more moderate Rattlesnake Gulch Trail starts in the canyon before climbing 1.4 miles up 800 feet to give you spectacular views. Stop in the visitor center to buy a fishing license and get hiking information. The best time to visit Eldorado is during a weekday. If you go on a weekend, arrive early as the park reaches capacity often during summer months. When you get hot, jump off the diving board at Eldorado Swimming Pool literally right outside the park. It opened in 1905 and is fed by an artesian spring. Learn more at cpw.state.co.us. MYROCKYMOUNTAINPARK.COM 23

5 Camp for All FALL WAGON RIDE Choose between the YMCA of the Rockies Estes Park Center on the park's east side or YMCA of the Rockies Snow Mountain Ranch on the west side for great activities and lodging options. PHOTOS COURTESY YMCA OF THE ROCKIES, DEPOSIT (PENCILS) 1. GET ACTIVE WHY GO: New in April 2018, the Boone Family Mountain Center at the Estes Park location houses all adventure activities, including an indoor climbing wall and bouldering wall. TIP: At Snow Mountain Ranch, hike the 2-mile round-trip Waterfall Trail, which after undergoing construction, is wider than before and enables you to reach the top of the waterfall. HIKING 2. FLY THROUGH THE AIR WHY GO: The Estes Park location debuted its new zipline in fall Built to accommodate kids and adults who weigh between pounds, it takes you 35 feet above the ground for a 370-foot ride through the sky. FOR KIDS: At Snow Mountain Ranch, younger kids can swing on the new mini-zipline built for children to ride it unassisted with a soft landing the whole stretch. It s part of the Spruce Saddle Adventure Zone that opened in fall CRAFTS GALORE WHY GO: Whether you are a Pinterest fanatic who is constantly crafty or have not picked up a paintbrush since high school art class, you ll lose track of time creating leather, jewelry and wood pieces, painting ceramics and making sand designs. TIP: Crafts always take longer than you think, so avoid going at the end of the day just before the studio closes. 4. SADDLE UP WHY GO: From the Estes Park location, you can go on a trail ride right into Rocky Mountain National Park. At Snow Mountain, you'll ride through the forest, passing the historic Rowley homestead. TIP: Don t want to ride? Take a wagon ride at either location. 5. STAY AWHILE WHY GO: Both YMCA locations offer lodges and cabins for overnight stays. TIP: When you stay at the YMCA locations, you get a Stay Pass wristband, which gives you free access to most activities. Learn more at ymcarockies.org and snowmountainranch.org. MYROCKYMOUNTAINPARK.COM 19

6 Phil Frigon LET LIFE TAKE ON A WHOLE NEW POINT OF VIEW YMCA OF THE ROCKIES ESTES PARK IS A NATURAL PARADISE. BORDERED ON THREE SIDES BY ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK, FAMILIES FIND ADVENTURE JUST OUTSIDE THEIR DOOR, AND WITH ABUNDANT WILDLIFE AND MAJESTIC MOUNTAIN VIEWS, PHOTOGRAPHERS ARE SURE TO BE INSPIRED. CAPTURE PICTURE-PERFECT MEMORIES YMCAROCKIES.ORG

7 Top 5 Soaking Spots Colorado is dotted with incredible hot springs. Dip into some of the state s best on your trip. GLENWOOD SPRINGS POOL Glenwood Springs, Colo. Take a break from I-70 at this historic resort at the intersection of the Colorado and Roaring Fork rivers, once a place where Utes wintered. Today, it is home to the world's largest hot springs pool, complete with water slides, a kids' pool, a spa and 107-room lodge. It's just steps from Glenwood's charming downtown; hotspringspool.com. PHOTO BY GRANT ORDELHEIDE Hot Sulphur Springs Resort & Spa Hot Sulphur Springs, Colo. This quiet facility west of Grand Lake features a series of small, soothing pools, some blazing hot, and four for kids. A spa offers massages, herbal wraps and mud masks; hotsulphursprings.com. Ouray Hot Springs Ouray, Colo. Nestled in a tight valley overshadowed by 13,000-foot peaks, this large sulfur-free mineral pool on Main Street has three slides and is open year round. Massages are offered; ourayhotsprings.com. The Springs Resort & Spa Pagosa Springs, Colo. Home to the world's deepest geothermal hot spring, this resort offers a variety of pools with temperatures ranging from 66 to 110 F. A 79-room hotel is part of the complex; pagosahotsprings.com. Strawberry Park Hot Springs Steamboat Springs, Colo. Head north of Steamboat Springs to find this series of beautiful pools surrounded by evergreens. Massages are available. At night, it's adults only at the hot springs; strawberryhotsprings.com. MYROCKYMOUNTAINPARK.COM 25

8 ROAD TRIPS BEST OF COLORADO GLENWOOD SPRINGS, COLO., TO GRAND JUNCTION, COLO. 88 miles and 1 hour and 24 minutes CYCLISTS ON RIM ROCK DRIVE Desert Solitaire Explore Colorado National Monument and the surrounding area. John Otto arrived in the Grand Junction area in 1906 to help construct a waterline. But when he explored the stunning canyons and rock formations of what would later become Colorado National Monument, he decided to stay. It felt like the heart of the world to me, he said, devoting his efforts to protecting it. His goal was realized in 1911 when the landscape he fell in love with became the Colorado National Monument. Today, drive or bike along the monument's 23-mile Rim Rock Drive and see the monument for yourself. The striking road snakes along the upper level of a collection of canyons, passing 19 signed viewpoints and 14 hiking trails. You'll get fantastic views of the valley and the monument's beautiful rock formations. Don't miss the Saddlehorn Visitor Center, which has two 12-minute movies, Spirit of Colorado National Monument and The Geologic History of Colorado National Monument. Below the monument, you can horseback ride, go rafting or rent a raft at Rimrock Adventures. Animal lovers will love that you can buy treats on site to feed the resident donkeys. Learn more at nps.gov/colm. PHOTO COURTESY VISIT GRAND JUNCTION 26 ROCKY MOUNTAIN JOURNAL 2018

9 PHOTOS BY BY GRANT COURTESY ORDELHEIDE BLACK CANYON OF THE GUNNISON Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park evolved from a monument established in 1933 to a national park in Its narrow canyon walls stretch 2,700 feet high from the canyon bottom toward the sky. Just 20 minutes from downtown Montrose, Colo., this national park features easy to strenuous trails. MYROCKYMOUNTAINPARK.COM 27

10 ROAD TRIPS BEST OF COLORADO MONTROSE, COLO., TO DURANGO, COLO. 106 miles and 2 hours and 25 minutes DURANGO AT NIGHT Best of the West Durango offers an amazing downtown, great food and a ride on a steam train. Voted a finalist in Outside Magazine s 2016 Best Towns category, Durango really lives up to its stellar reputation. Perched at 6,512 feet, this charming historic town has six craft breweries, one distillery and more restaurants per capita than San Francisco. It also has fantastic mountain biking and hiking trails. But at its heart is the railroad. Founded by the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad Co. in 1880, the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad attracts approximately 200,000 passengers per year. Find out why this is such a popular attraction by taking the nine-hour round-trip train excursion from Durango to the tiny, historic mining town of Silverton. Or if you have limited time, opt for the Skyway Tour, in which you ride the train one way and a bus the other. Durango s best-kept secret? You can access the longest zip line in North America by riding the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad with Soaring Tree Top Adventures based in Durango. Stop by The Durango Welcome Center at 802 Main Ave., or go to durango.org to learn more. DURANGO & SILVERTON RAILROAD BY THE NUMBERS 136 YEARS OF SERVICE $300, 000, 000 WORTH OF PRECIOUS METALS HAS BEEN HAULED BY THE TRAIN 10,000 GALLONS OF WATER IS USED EACH TRIP 12,000 POUNDS OF HAND- SHOVELED COAL USED EACH TRIP 1882 YEAR TRACKS TO SILVERTON WERE COMPLETED Source: Durango Area Tourism Office; Silverton Area Chamber of Commerce PHOTO COURTESY DURANGO AREA TOURISM OFFICE/MIKE ALCOTT 28 ROCKY MOUNTAIN JOURNAL 2018

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12 ROAD TRIPS BEST OF COLORADO DURANGO, COLO., TO CORTEZ, COLO. 46 miles and 51 minutes Four Corners Gems CLIFF PALACE IN MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK Here are the top six things to do in the area surrounding Mesa Verde National Park. 1. MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK WHY GO: Described as the pyramids of North America, the ancient ruins at Mesa Verde hold the early stories of our nation. TIP: Take the 700 Years Tour that bring you via motorcoach on short hikes to see the earliest houses from 600 A.D. to complex villages built in the 1200s. Sign up for this four-hour tour at visitmesaverde.com. 2. ANASAZI HERITAGE CENTER WHY GO: Grind corn, touch ancient pottery sherds and learn to weave on a Pueblo-style loom at this museum in Dolores, Colo., with real artifacts removed from area sites to preserve them. TIP: This serves as the visitor center for the Canyon of the Ancients National Monument, and it digs deep into the 2,000- year history of the area, which culminated in the settlement of Mesa Verde. 3. WILDEDGE BREWING COLLECTIVE WHY GO: The newest brewery among the area s fi ve, WildEdge in Cortez is wildly creative with its small-batch brews. TIP: If it s on the menu, order the Columbine, made from kettlesoured wheat beer refermented with boysenberries. Its bright magenta color captures the beauty of this concoction. 4. CORTEZ CULTURAL CENTER WHY GO: Housed in a 1909 building, this center features free Native American dances Monday through Saturday at 7 p.m. late May through the beginning of September. TIP: Buy tickets here for culinary and ranch tours at local farms and ranches. Transportation and lunch are included. Tours start spring CROW CANYON ARCHAEOLOGICAL CENTER WHY GO: Tour an excavation site, join a dig or analyze artifacts at this center founded three decades ago on the belief the public plays a critical role in archaeology. TIP: Go on a free one-hour walking tour to learn more about Crow Canyon s archaeological research. Or dive in for an Archaeology Day Tour. DOLORES RIVER CAMPGROUND 6. sounds of the Dolores River in a yurt, vintage trailer or cabin. Or pitch your tent or pull up an RV. TIP: Reserve the 1950 Spartan Spartanette, a vintage trailer with original woodwork, a retro kitchen and a private patio. DOLORES RIVER CAMPGROUND WHY GO: Fall asleep to the Stop in the Colorado Welcome Center, 928 Main St., in Cortez or go to mesaverdecountry.com to learn more. PHOTOS BY GRANT ORDELHEIDE (CLIFF PALACE, NATIVE AMERICAN DANCER), BILLIE BEYHAN (DOLORES RIVER CAMPGROUND) 30 ROCKY MOUNTAIN JOURNAL 2018

13 ROAD TRIPS LAND OF ENCHANTMENT FARMINGTON, N.M., TO CORTEZ, COLO. 73 miles and 1 hour 25 minutes Palaces of the Past While climbing one of the several 10-foot ladders at Cliff Palace on a hot day, you'll realize why ancient people spent 700 years in what is now Mesa Verde National Park. About 1,400 years ago, ancestral Puebloans (also known as Anasazi) built more than 600 dwellings into the gorgeous sandstone cliffs that serve as nature's air conditioning in the heat of the summer. Tour these dwellings to catch a glimpse into our nation's ancient history. You must go on a guided tour with a park ranger to see Cliff Palace, Balcony House and Long House. Purchase your tickets for these tours in person at the Mesa Verde Visitor and Research Center up to two days in advance. The visitor center is home to exhibits, restrooms, park information and the park's museum collection of more than 3 million objects. Learn more at nps.gov/meve. 30 FOOT LADDER TO BALCONY HOUSE Visit Mesa Verde National Park to see how ancient Americans lived. Stop in South Fork Don t let this sleepy town tucked into the folds of the mountains fool you. Its small size is counteracted by the extraordinary amount of energy its 350 year-round residents generate through outdoor recreation. You may catch sight of the Silver Threads hiking group, who seem to get outdoors as often as they get out of bed. Fish in the legendary waters of the Rio Grande River that meets the South Fork in town or try fl y- fi shing with a local guide. Hike or bike part of the Continental Divide Trail. Golf at the Rio Grande Golf Course, a diffi cult mountain course. Explore the Weminuche Wilderness just two miles from town. It s one of the wildest places in the state. In 1979 the last Colorado grizzly was killed here, 27 years after they were thought to be extinct in the state. Learn more at the South Fork Visitor Center, 28 Silverthread Ln., at the junction of Hwy. 160 and Hwy. 149 or southfork. org. PHOTO BY MALCOM SURGENOR/FLICKR 58 ROCKY MOUNTAIN JOURNAL 2018

14 PHOTO BY ART PAOLINI CANYONS OF THE ANCIENTS Just 12 miles from Mesa Verde National Park, this national monument often falls off travelers' radar screens, making it a fantastic place to discover solitude and ancient history. It contains the highest known archaeological site density in the United States with 6,355-plus recorded sites. MYROCKYMOUNTAINPARK.COM 31

15 ANDRE COSTANTINI AND KEN HUBBARD Shooting in Sand Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve is always breathtaking, especially at sunset and sunrise. But shots like this aren t flukes they re executed by trained photographers like Ken Hubbard and his Tamron colleaugue André Costantini who have the patience to wait out bad light and weather for gorgeous shots. We asked Ken for three tips to help you get the best possible shots at Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve. Learn how to take amazing sunset, night skies and sunrise shots by signing up for Hubbard and Costantini's online Night Sky Photography course. Read more at nationalparktripsmedia.com/nightskies. ANDRÉ COSTANTINI has been a professional photographer for more than two decades. His clients include American Repertory Theatre, Constellation Center and Discovery Channel. He regularly teaches workshops on filmmaking and photography. KEN HUBBARD is field services manager for Tamron and responsible for Tamron's popular Tailgate Tour and consumer workshop series. His portrait and lanscape work has appeared in galleries nationwide, and he teaches enthusiasts how to take better photos at workshops across the country. Ken's Quick- Tips USE A LARGE ANGLE LENS To truly capture a dramatic landscape, I like to use wideangle lenses. Using the Tamron SP24-70mm at 24 mm, I was able to compose my panoramic image with strong foreground, middle and background elements. LOOK FOR LEADING LINES Look for leading lines in your scene to help guide the viewer's eyes through the image. In the panoramic shot, I used the sun-lit, wind-swept ridge in the dunes coming in from the bottom right of the frame that led to the serpentine pattern in the middle and then the dark pattern in the far off dunes. BRING RAIN PROTECTION When you are planning on being outside, always bring a rain protection shield. Expensive name-brand models or a simple Op/Tech rain sleeve will do. These products are not only for rain. At Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve, the wind picks up sand, doing just as much damage as water. When the wind blows, put your rain shield on your equipment. PHOTO BY ROB WOOD 40 ROCKY MOUNTAIN JOURNAL 2018

16 ROAD TRIPS BEST OF COLORADO ALAMOSA, COLO., TO ARVADA, COLO. 216 miles and 3 hours and 46 minutes The Mighty Stop and stay in Arvada, 15 minutes from downtown Denver, for a charming historic downtown experience. OLD TOWNE ARVADA BOUTIQUE SHOPPING Arvada s Olde Town is full of locally owned shops and restaurants. Head to Sock, which literally sells hundreds of pairs of socks from sports team themes to silly ones with hamburgers or iconic sights. At Lovely, discover jewelry, women s clothing, scarves, hats, shoes and purses. In Vouna, you ll find all made-in-america goods from lifestyle gifts to women s clothes and home decor. There's a little something for everyone in this historic downtown. FOOD SCENE Arvada s proximity to downtown Denver has led to a thriving local food scene. Bluegrass Coffee & Bourbon Lounge offers coffee, pastries and breakfast sandwiches in the morning and bourbon (along with wine and beer) at night. Its pizza has garnered awards for the Best of Arvada two consecutive years. Denver Beer Co. opened up the Olde Town Arvada Taproom here, which features a vintage Airstream trailer called The Mighty where you can order artisan burgers and French fries. WILDLIFE REFUGE You ve been to Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve and Colorado National Monument. But have you been to the smallest urban refuge in the National Wildlife Refuge system? In Arvada, Two Ponds National Wildlife Refuge covers 72 acres and is home to three ponds. One hundred and twenty bird species use the refuge. It is managed by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service and is part of a national network of lands and waters set aside to conserve America s fish, wildlife and plants. SLEEPOVER The Pearl, The Hummingbird and The Garden are the names of the three fully-furnished apartments that make up the Victorian-style boutique hotel, Arvada Dragonfly. Located in Olde Town, it s steps away from restaurants and shopping and can be rented by the night, week or month. All units have kitchens. On the other side of Olde Town is the Hilton Garden Inn, which opened in 2017 and offers modern decor, an indoor saline pool and fitness center to keep you in shape. Learn more at the Arvada Visitors Center, 7305 Grandview Ave., or at visitarvada.org. PHOTO BY SCOTT DRESSEL-MARTIN COURTESY ARVADA VISITORS CENTER 32 ROCKY MOUNTAIN JOURNAL 2018