Yukon Outback Adventure

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Angelina Alexia Dawson
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Yukon Outback Adventure It was an opportunity to good miss! Driving from Seattle, through the Canadian Rockies and Yukon Territory into Alaska and back by cruise ship along the inside passage.

Many inclusions sealed the deal on a superb holiday adventure.

After navigating a couple of on and off ramps we soon had the hang of driving on the right, it was surprisingly easy.

1 Yukon Outback Adventure It was an opportunity to good miss! Driving from Seattle, through the Canadian Rockies and Yukon Territory into Alaska and back by cruise ship along the inside passage. Twenty two days, one way, in a Motor Home was our style and we couldn t let it go. The motor homes are relocated to Alaska for their short summer. Many inclusions sealed the deal on a superb holiday adventure. This great adventure began in Seattle (USA) with a familiarisation tour of our Ford F450, 26 foot Motor Home and meeting the fourteen Aussie couples, our travelling companions for the next 32 days. After navigating a couple of on and off ramps we soon had the hang of driving on the right, it was surprisingly easy. Each couple did their own thing during the day and met at pre-booked and included RV 01. Motor homes ready for our adventure Parks in the evening. Travelling in easy stages through Washington and Idaho States, USA, we crossed the border into Canada and the Southern Rockies. The wonders of the Canadian Rocky Mountains, Kicking Horse Pass, Lake Louise, Banff, Ice Park Highway and Jasper are a story that must wait for another day. Soon the major tourist areas were behind us and ahead lay rolling hills of forest and farmland as well as a stop at Mt Robson 02 Southern Canadian Rockies and Overland Falls. In the tiny hamlet of McBride our hosts at Beaver RV Park turned on a delicious traditional Weaner Roast and marsh mellows and the Humming Birds kept us all spell bound. A magical walk in an ancient forest, with trees over 2000 years old and other primitive plants broke the journey to Prince George. We turned north to traverse open forest, spotting many Black bears on our drive. Stops at Whiskers Point Provincial Park, Lake McLeod, the furious Bijou Falls and Chetwynd with its many chainsaw sculptures kept us intrigued along this isolated route. The thriving town of Dawson Creek had its own fascination with its many historic 03 Kicking Horse Pass buildings and quaint Pioneer Village. This town was the beginning of the Alaskan Highway and of this story. 1/7

Alaskan Highway Wilderness For the next nine days and 2237 km we travelled along the remarkable Alaskan Highway (nick named

The majority of this Highway and engineering wonder is on Canadian soil and weaves in and out of British Columbia and Yukon

During World War II, having no road access to Alaska was considered a strategic risk, so in less than eight months, in 1942

Stone Sheep Now I know why they have that name.

yet remarkably different as it is cold not heat that makes it such a harsh environment.

drilling, imprints heaves in the road 08. Beaver Creek Catholic Church Fort Nelson has only 116 frost free days and a tiny 17.

In Winter the population is around 20,000 compared to Summer with only 5000; when the Permafrost melts the drilling rigs and

2 Alaskan Highway Wilderness For the next nine days and 2237 km we travelled along the remarkable Alaskan Highway (nick named Alcan) running between Dawson Creek (British Columbia) via Whitehorse (Yukon Territory) to Delta Junction (Alaska USA). The majority of this Highway and engineering wonder is on Canadian soil and weaves in and out of British Columbia and Yukon Territory. During World War II, having no road access to Alaska was considered a strategic risk, so in less than eight months, in 1942 the US Army built the Alaskan Highway through incredibly inhospitable territory. 11. Stone Sheep Now I know why they have that name. pavement, turns the many lakes into solid masses, drives most visitors and human inhabitants away and sends many critters into hibernation. These nine days had a Teslin town and lake on Alcan Hwy strange similarity to the isolation of travelling in outback Australia yet remarkably different as it is cold not heat that makes it such a harsh environment. Permafrost (frozen ground) dictates tree height and shape, allows access to remote swampy areas for gas and shale oil drilling, imprints heaves in the road 08. Beaver Creek Catholic Church Fort Nelson has only 116 frost free days and a tiny 17.7 inches of rain per year. In Winter the population is around 20,000 compared to Summer with only 5000; when the Permafrost melts the drilling rigs and workers all head south, which is what they were doing when we stayed the night. Many smaller towns such as Wonowon (Population 150), Pink Mountain (150), Sikanni Chief (tiny) and Toad River (100) simply close up for 8-10 months of the year. On our trip it was early spring and only about half the gas stations were open as we traversed this amazing country. 05b. Summit Lake ice and snow The many lakes and rivers were just starting to thaw but still had ice thick enough to walk on. Frozen lakes were an ongoing fascination for our warm climate minds. Steam Boat Mt was the highest point on our journey 05a. Snowing at Steam Boat Mountain. 2/7

and it didn t disappoint with a good dump of snow turning the Spruce and Fir forests in to an English Christmas Card scene.

Wood Peckers and the Canadian Goose, kept drivers and passengers alert and excited.

Black Spruce, White Spruce, Fir Trees and the deciduous Beech dominate on the landscape, not a familiar Eucalypt or hardwood to be seen. 19. Bison grazing roadside.

At two, more remote RV parks, power hook-ups were not available which did not present any problem with our fully self-contained motor homes; a generator and diesel heater were standard equipment.

3 and it didn t disappoint with a good dump of snow turning the Spruce and Fir forests in to an English Christmas Card scene. While we had already seen many native animals it was along this more remote road that moose, Black bears, caribou, elk, Stone sheep, bison and a multitude of birds including the sight and sounds of Wood Peckers and the Canadian Goose, kept drivers and passengers alert and excited. The built scenery had its own fascination; mostly of logs and timber, many with earth and grass rooves (for insulation). Black Spruce, White Spruce, Fir Trees and the deciduous Beech dominate on the landscape, not a familiar Eucalypt or hardwood to be seen. 19. Bison grazing roadside. Simple log huts and houses, log bridges, an occasional lumber mill were the only signs of human occupation for most of the way. Identical steel bridges traversed most of the rivers. At two, more remote RV parks, power hook-ups were not available which did not present any problem with our fully self-contained motor homes; a generator and diesel heater were standard equipment. The still in use, Kiskatinaw Bridge was well worth a slight detour along the original route. Spanning a deep ravine this all timber bridge has a curved deck and super structure if you admire timber craftsmanship then this is a noto-be-missed. Liard Thermal Springs and RV Park was a delightful sub tropical oasis to relax, catch-up with travelling companions and compare wildlife sightings. 07. Kiskatinaw Bridge all timber trestle. Watsons Lake claim to fame for its 1500 residents was the very clever Sign Post Forest, a collection of 61,000 road, town and similar signs from all over the world. We felt quiet nostalgic to find a familiar yellow Kangaroo 10. Liard River thermal springs sign including the customary bullet holes. The largest town on the Alaskan Highway is Whitehorse the major administrative hub of the Yukon Territory. The town is modern and busy but 13. Sign Post Forest Watsons has a quaint pioneer Lake (&/or photo 12) style set of CBD buildings. A hydroelectric power station and reservoir are in the centre of town providing a pleasant Miles Canyon, lake and fish ladder. A well restore Klondike stern wheeler river boat is a proud reminder of by-gone gold rush days. 16. Aishihik River log bridge 3/7

White Cross Pass With two nights at Whitehorse we took the opportunity to hang up our keys and take an optional tour on the White Cross Railway.

Our passports were checked by US Customs, and travelling down the breathtakingly picturesque, snow covered and steep White Cross Pass to Skagway (Alaska USA) on the coast.

White Cross Pass train Fraser to Skagway Next morning we resumed our drive heading north-west from Whitehorse.

Lake Kluane is the largest in Yukon Territory at 400,000 square kilometres and 70 km long; it was largely frozen when we passed by, into this ice wilderness, at the southern end, were clouds of steam

4 White Cross Pass With two nights at Whitehorse we took the opportunity to hang up our keys and take an optional tour on the White Cross Railway. Our first stop was Carcross (originally Caribou Crossing), and then Fraser by coach before boarding the vintage train. Our passports were checked by US Customs, and travelling down the breathtakingly picturesque, snow covered and steep White Cross Pass to Skagway (Alaska USA) on the coast. Skagway now a tourist town with large cruise liners seemingly in the centre of town was once the gateway to the goldfields of the Yukon for the stream of hardy gold seeker. 15. White Cross Pass train Fraser to Skagway Next morning we resumed our drive heading north-west from Whitehorse. An extraordinary log bridge over the Aishihik River and an enormous lake were the outstanding features of the drive. Lake Kluane is the largest in Yukon Territory at 400,000 square kilometres and 70 km long; it was largely frozen when we passed by, into this ice wilderness, at the southern end, were clouds of steam rising from thermal springs. Destruction Bay on the lake shore had devised a unique and effective speed deterrent for a tiny Highway township; a cutout police car on the roadside. Our last night in Canada was spent on the muddy shores of Lake Kluane at Burwash Landing. The only commercial premises in town was a very outback pub including two out21. Destruction Bay of-order fuel speed sign bowsers and RV park without connections; it is only open for two months each year. With many a 11. The grand vistas along the Alaskan Hwy. laugh we survived the night in our creature comfort motor homes. Goodbye Canada - Hello Alaska (USA) Our farewell to Canada was the sighting of nesting Canadian Swans and a beaver out on a fishing expedition. Moving our watches forward one hour we entered the USA and the realisation of another dream to explore Alaska. The heaves along and across the highway continued although they were now marked with red flags. Forest trees were becoming larger, gas (petrol) cheaper and populated towns more frequent. Tok was a very pleasant town and RV Park for our last night on the Alaskan Highway. While we expected this northern trip to be cold, and we packed accordingly, most of they days in May were in shirt sleeves and 24. Permafrost cause the road to heave in all directions 4/7

After a visit to Dot Lake we arrived at Delta Junction and the unceremonious end of the wonderful Alaskan Highway adventure. 20.

5 sunburn on ears and faces was common. Crossing a bridge over the deep Santo Margarita River valley we were astounded by the sight below. Walking back we looked down on large forest trees and an enormous river of ice, we estimate the exposed faces to be greater than two meters thick. After a visit to Dot Lake we arrived at Delta Junction and the unceremonious end of the wonderful Alaskan Highway adventure. 20. Santo Margarita River of ice The long way home Continuing along the Richardson Highway the sparse open spaces gradually gave way to small towns and urban fringe. Of course we had to stop at North Pole and visit Santa s House and buy some Christmas treats for the Grandkids. The large city of Fairbanks with its Expressways and busy traffic heralded that we were back in a more familiar world. Beside the Chena River the Rivers Edge RV Park, for two nights, provided a delightful respite to savour the wonderful memories of the Alaskan Highway experience. Our odometer told us that we had travelled 3025 miles (4868 km) since leaving Seattle. (Total drive Seattle to Anchorage 3432 miles or 5471 km) The adventure was to continue with a flight to Coldfoot and remote settlement of Wiseman inside the Arctic Circle, Denali National Park, a flight over the highest mountain in North America, Mt McKinley, before farewelling our motor homes in Anchorage. A wildlife cruise along the Kenai Fjord completed the incredible wildlife experience. Finally a seven night cruise via the Hubbard Glacier, Juneau, Skagway, Icy Strait Point and Ketchikan and the inside passage to Vancouver. David & Jacoba Hinton V42064 Copyright David Hinton Bald Eagle out fishing. 5/7

6 Details Sole Travel Agent and Organiser Graeme Smyth - Harvey World Travel Menai, Menai Market Place, Menai 2234 NSW Phone: , menai@harveyworld.com.au, Web: Tour Dates 8 May to 13 June 2010, Sydney to Sydney This Northern Hemisphere Spring tour is conducted annually. A reverse trip is conducted in autumn (August/September) Vancouver, Anchorage, Seattle. Inclusions: Economy airfares Sydney to Vancouver return, Vancouver to Seattle, Motor home hire 22 days, RV Park fees, Cruise Seward to Vancouver 7 nights all onboard food and entertainment, Mt McKinley flight, Kenai Fjord cruise Transfers Hotels Seattle, Anchorage, Seward and Vancouver Tour Leader USA visa waiver Extras: A range of optional pre-booked tours were offered at own expense Fuel for motor home approximately AU$1500 Food other than on ship Personal Items 6/7

7 Photo details Photos in article are compressed, the originals (uncompressed are supplied as separate JPG files. If more photos are required please ask, only 3660 to choose from I have tried to include our/group motor homes and/or my wife Jacoba in most. Hinton xx.jpg 01. Motor homes ready to go at Seattle 02. Southern Rockies Canada 03. Kicking Horse Pass on Trans Canadian Highway 04. Teslin town and lake 05. a Steam Boat Mt. snowing, highest road point on trip. 05b. Sumimit Lake ice ands snow. 06. Black Bear 07. Kiskatinaw Bridge timber trestle bridge 08. Beaver Creek Catholic Church 09. Stone Sheep now I know why they have that name. 10. Liard River thermal springs 11. The grand vista Alaskan (Alcan) Highway 12. Signpost Forest Watsons Lake 13. Signpost Forest Watsons Lake 14. RV Park Watsons Lake 15. White Cross rail Fraser (Canada) to Skagway (USA) 16. Aishihik River traditional all log bridge 17. Burwash Landing on shores of low Lake Kluane (last night in Canada) 18. Tok RV Park last night on Alaskan Highway 19. Bison graze the roadside. 20. Santo Margarita River of river of ice from bridge. 21. Destruction Bay speed deterrent 22. Bald Eagle at Whitehorse a spot of fishing. 23. Mount Montana and interconnecting lakes 24. Road heaves as a result of permafrost, difficult to see easy to feel at 100kph 7/7

MOTOr HOME CONvOy TOUrING

Motor Home Convoy Touring 2009/10 Motor Home Convoy Touring Motor Home convoy touring is truly a magnificent way to see more of your destination in the company of friendly interesting people. Harvey World