Need to Know. First Time in Bhutan. When To Go. Dos and Don ts. Quick Facts. Sample chapter

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1 1 Need to Know For detailed information, see Travellers' Helpdesk on p172 Quick Facts LANGUAGES Dzongkha, Hindi, Nepali, Bengali, English TIME 30 mins ahead of IST. CURRENCY Ngultrum (Nu). The Indian rupee (up to Rs100 notes) is legal tender in Bhutan. Nu 1 = Re 1. Some top-end hotels accept US$. MOBILE PHONES As long as your phone is unlocked you can buy a local SIM card for both domestic and international use and top it up with prepaid cards. INTERNET ACCESS Wi-fi is available in select hotels and restaurants. Internet cafes are located in shopping areas of towns. TOURIST INFORMATION Tourism Council of Bhutan (TCB) (% ; Chhogyel Lam, ) When To Go High Season (March April, September November): The weather is best in spring and autumn. Book flights and accommodation well in advance. Himalayan views are best in October, while rhododendron blooms peak in March and April. Mid Season (May, December February): The main benefit of travelling outside high season will be fewer tourists. The weather is still good, though it can be severely cold in December and January. Low Season (June August): Avoid the monsoons especially if you want to go trekking. The Himalayan valley of Drukgyel Dzong First Time in Bhutan Passport: Bring your passport, or atleast a voter s ID, as official identification is necessary for procuring further travel permits within Bhutan. Also bring at least five passport photos for the paperwork. Visa: Indian travellers don t require a visa to enter Bhutan. (For further details check Traveller s helpdesk p174). HEALTH & SAFETY Medical services in Bhutan get basic the further you venture away from or the main urban centres. It always helps to carry your own first-aid kit and medicines, especially prescription drugs. Consult your doctor for what to carry for emergencies. Possession and use of drugs is illegal in Bhutan. Smoking in public places is prohibited, though a lot of people seem to boldly flout the rule. Bhutan is very safe for travellers, and serious criminal activities within the country are rarely heard of. Women tourists face little risk travelling alone, and the towns and villages are usually safe even after sundown (although there s little to do or see after dusk). However, it always helps to take care of your personal belongings, and keep your wits about you. ADVANCE PLANNING Plan the purchase of your airline tickets in advance. Druk Air generally has fixed fares for its Delhi/Kolkata flights. Plan your itinerary and budget. Book accommodation before landing, if you are travelling by yourself. Book early-on with tour operators, minimum a month ahead, and discuss services such as accommodation, food, transport and guide services in advance. Tour operators charge all-inclusive tariffs, with no choice of accommodation, food, transport and guide services offered to travellers. WHAT TO PACK Light and loose wash-and-wear clothes. Waterproof holder for passport and money. A compact umbrella and/or good raincoat. Dos and Don ts Do check for discounts for students under age 25 with tour operators and take your ID card along for proof. Do enquire if Indians can pay local rates at restaurants or shops. Do make an effort to be polite with locals while making enquiries. Do book with your tour operator well in advance before landing in Bhutan. Do not litter while trekking in the mountains. Do not smoke in public areas. Do not wear shoes to temples and be respectful while visiting sacred sites. Do not leave for Bhutan without good maps as they are difficult to find. The Bhutanese do not encourage haggling. Limit bargaining at small handicraft shops. Do not drink tap water. 2

2 3 4 Bhutan at a Glance The different regions of Bhutan provide distinct experiences in themselves.we have pulled out the top highlights for you to explore. EASTERN BHUTAN P146 This rugged region's monasteries and picturesque valleys retain their isolated splendour. THIMPHU P100 Monasteries, temples, markets and modern cafes make this a lively and scenic tourist spot. Haa #_ Paro Punakha Wangdue Phodrang Trongsa Jakar Mongar Trashigang WESTERN BHUTAN P56 The nation's important region boasts of majestic dzongs, popular treks, the airport and other facilities. CENTRAL BHUTAN P128 The cultural heartland showcases fertile valleys, pristine mountains and monasteries, and hosts cultural festivities.

3 5 6 Why Go? has a youthful exuberance that constantly challenges the country s natural conservatism. Crimson-robed monks, government ministers clad in ghos and kiras and camera-wielding tourists all share the same pavements, and nobody, it seems, is in a hurry. Its balance between the old and the new is evident in its offering of espresso bars, Thai restaurants, protector shrines and hillside hermitage retreats, all on the same platter. Take your pick! Getting There & Away Car: Self-driving from Phuentsholing is a scenic and eminently enjoyable option. The 172km route can be covered in about five hours. See p31 for tips on driving into Bhutan overland from India. Shared taxis can also be hired from Phuentsholing for about Nu500 per seat. If you re flying into Paro, a bound taxi will cost about Nu800. Bus: There are over two dozen daily buses to Phuentsholing (Nu81 to Nu111; Coaster Nu192). Top 5 Highlights Trashi Chhoe Dzong (p103) An imposing structure set amid a serene landscape. National Institute for Zorig Chusum (p107) Showcasing the best of Bhutan s arts and crafts. National Memorial Chorten (p106) Join locals in their daily circumambulations. Changangkha Lhakhang (p105) Bhutan s liveliest temple. Weekend Market (p111) From incense to amulets, there s something here for everyone. Curious observers at Trashi Chhoe Dzong in

4 7 is the world's only capital without traffic lights something which tells you a lot about this quaint and easy-going city. Established as the capital of Bhutan in 1961, it s relaxed, friendly and informal, and is most rewarding if you can be the same. While there are sights aplenty to keep you busy through the day, keep some time in hand to float about this picture-perfect city, taking in a plethora of sights, sounds and smells and generally doing your own thing. The colourful and dramatic tsechu makes September the peak tourist season in town. If you re visiting at other times, Saturday is a good day to be here, hen archery tournaments are held, opening hours at the dzong are extended, the weekend market is in full swing and nightlife is at its liveliest. 2 days Greater Greater 2 Days With the exception of some sights, most of s attractions are casually strewn about the greater extents of the city. It makes sense to start with the extremities and then spiral into the centre of town. The northern fringes of boast the grand Trashi Chhoe Dzong, your starting point on the first day. The National Memorial Chorten, located in s southern quarters, promises good photo-ops during sunset, and is a good place to round off the day. Schedule the second day for sights closer to the town centre. DAY 1 Highlights Day 1 1 Trashi Chhoe Dzong 2 Dechen Phodrang 3 Zilukha Nunnery 4 Changangkha Lhakang 5 National Memorial Chorten Day 2 6 National Institute for Zorig Chusum 7 Folk Heritage Museum 8 National Library 9 National Institute for Traditional Medicine 1 TRASHI CHHOE DZONG a Textile Museum The splendid Trashi Chhoe Dzong, north of the city on the west bank of the Wang Chhu, was the site of the lavish coronation of the fifth king in 2008 and hosts the city s biggest annual bash, the colourful tsechu festivities. It once housed the National Assembly and now houses the secretariat and the throne room and offices of the king. 8 1 day Centre GETTING AROUND THE REGION Walking: Most shops and points of interest are within easy walking distance of s major hotels so it s easy to go sightseeing, pop out for a drink or embark on a round of shopping on foot. Taxi: Most of s taxis are Maruti vans with meters that drivers rarely use. Taxi drivers have a habit of charging tourists as much as they can one of Bhutan s few rip-offs. A short ride around town costs around Nu50 to 60 or you can hire a taxi for the day especially if you re touring Greater for about Nu500.

5 9 10 Namgay Heritage Hotel Hotel $$$ % ; s/d Nu3200/3700, deluxe Nu5000/5500 At the top end of the mid-range class is this excellent new place, a short walk from the centre. Rooms are comfortable with good beds and stylish Buddhist motifs, though some rooms suffer from slow drains. Pluses include a good Bhutanese restaurant and free sauna, steam room and gym. Hotel Kisa Hotel $$$ % ; Chang Lam; r Nu ; The Kisa has quickly become one of bestregarded hotels in town. It s central and stylish, with 35 very comfortable rooms and one of the best hotel restaurants in town. Hotel Migmar Hotel $$ % ; bt; Expressway, Olakha; s/d Nu2850/3500, deluxe Nu3500/4000 Opened in 2010, the Migmar is also at the top end of the mid-range class, featuring 27 spacious luxurious rooms with excellent facilities like hair dryer and safe. The location out of town in the southern suburbs is quiet, as long as you request a room away from the expressway. The swimming pool is a bit of a white elephant. Taj Tashi Luxury Hotel $$$ % ; com; Samten Lam; r/ste from US$385/575 The striking dzong-like architecture is a great introduction to the understated but stylish luxury inside. The cool modern bar and outdoor terrace are both great places for a sophisticated drink. The five deluxe rooms with balcony (US$415) are a good choice and come with a sun deck and day bed, though the balconies could do with more privacy. Corner rooms are also popular for the fine views. Sporty types will enjoy the top-end gym and indoor pool; couples will like the aromatherapy, followed by a rose petal bath and a bottle of champagne. Bhutan Hotel, Suites Apartments $$ % ; com; Changangkha; s/d Nu2900/3500 Business travellers and tourists alike are sure to appreciate the separate sitting room, underfloor heating and mini-kitchens here, plus the sweeping private balcony views over. The location is more convenient for visiting government ministries than having dinner in town, but you can order room service from the good vegetarian restaurant. A steam bath and sauna is planned. Wangchuk Hotel Hotel $$ % ; com; Chang Lam; s/d incl breakfast 5 Eating is the one place in Bhutan where you can track down some authentic local tastes as well as a range of Indian, vegetarian and Chinese flavours. Mid Point Restaurant Indian, Bhutanese $ % ; Wogzin Lam; mains Nu55 100; lunch & dinner Mon Sat This simple spot is a favourite of many locals for its generous dishes, particularly dosas and other South Indian offerings at very reasonable prices. The fish curry is excellent, as is the hogey (cabbage, carrot and chilli) salad. The outdoor seats are one of the few places in town for al fresco dining. Rice Bowl Chinese $ % ; Centre Mall, Norzin Lam; mains Nu80 100; lunch & dinner Mon Sat Excellent chilli pork, Sichuan chicken and crispy shredded lamb are made to be shared, though the A familiar thali at an Indian restaurant Indian Restaurants CHULA INDIAN $$ % ; Wogzin Lam; mains Nu80 180; Mon Sat Chula gets our vote as the best Indian food in town. The karhai chicken, tikka masala, and fresh paneer tikka are all great, as are the good-value set lunch thalis (Nu180). The restaurant is set to move to the Druk Punjab Bank plaza sometime in the future. HOTEL JUMOLHARI INDIAN $$ % ; com; Wogzin Lam; mains Nu50 150; breakfast, lunch & dinner This delightful restaurant in one of s most appealing hotels is notable for its delicious tandooris, curries, delicate naans, cold beer and relaxed atmosphere. CYPRESS HOTEL INDIAN $$ % ; FCB Bldg, Norzin Lam; set veg/non veg meals Nu120/180 An unpretentious but charming family-run place serving delicious Indian and Nepali food (the shahi paneer is recommended), with a popular Friday night thali (set meal) of eight dishes. TERDZOR HOTEL INDIAN $ Norzin Lam; mains Nu Excellent Nepali (Friday) and Punjabi (Saturday) vegetarian buffets.