What to Expect when traveling to. Fiji & Taveuni. Patrick & Erika

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1 What to Expect when traveling to Fiji & Taveuni Patrick & Erika

2 Introduction Exotic. Colorful. Vibrant. Friendly. Gracious. Fiji has been described as everyone s favorite South Pacific country and Taveuni is one of its most appealing islands. Spectacular is a word that s often used to describe the landscape from the palm-fringed shores and coral reefs to the lush, forested mountains. Once upon a time Fiji was identified as the Cannibal Isles. Today visitors will discover a warm, hospitable welcome that makes it the friendliest place on Earth. Explore Fiji and Taveuni for the experience of a lifetime. Bula! What to Expect when traveling to Fiji and Taveuni 2

3 Fiji South of the Hawaiian Islands and North of New Zealand and Australia lies the nation of Fiji, a scattering of over 300 islands mostly formed through volcanic eruptions millions of years ago. The country enjoys a perfect South Sea tropical climate with average winter temperatures ranging between 20º-26ºC (68º-80ºF) and a summer average between 23º-30ºC (73º-86ºF). Pollution free, Fiji boasts some of the cleanest air and purest water in the world. Taveuni Known as the Garden Island, Taveuni, Fiji s third largest island, is acclaimed for its lush, multi-colored vegetation with about sixty percent of the land being tropical rainforest. Its warm crystal-clear waters, soft and hard coral reefs and exotic marine life have earned it a well-deserved reputation as a spectacular diving destination. On land, Taveuni offers equally stunning experiences with guided hikes through remote villages to awe-inspiring, cascading waterfalls and natural water slides. Enjoy participating in traditional Fijian cultural ceremonies. Whether you simply want to kick-back and relax or explore an incredibly diverse island, Taveuni has something for everyone. Fiji gained its independence from the United Kingdom in 1970 but remains a member of the British Commonwealth. English is the commonly-spoken language while the native tongue is Fijian and the Indian population speaks Hindi. What to Expect when traveling to Fiji and Taveuni 3

4 Fiji s History and Culture The coming together of the Melanesians and the Polynesians created a highly developed society in Fiji long before Europeans accidentally discovered the islands. Dutch explorer, Abel Tasman, was the first to encounter Fiji in 1643 followed by English navigators such as Captain James Cook who sailed through in Major credit for the discovery and recording of the islands, though, went to Captain William Bligh who traversed the area after the infamous mutiny on the Bounty in As missionaries gained influence the practice of cannibalism disappeared. After Fiji was ceded to Great Britain in 1874, epidemics nearly wiped out the population only to be saved by measures introduced by the colonial government. What to Expect when traveling to Fiji and Taveuni 4

5 The 20th century brought about important economic changes in Fiji which has developed a major sugar industry and established productive copra milling, tourism and secondary industries. Fiji has been an independent country since Cannibalism So, what s the story on cannibalism? Many years ago the islands of Fiji were referred to as the Cannibal Isles. And with good reason. Cannibalism was an extremely popular practice. The natives ate shipwrecked crew who washed up on their shores as they were said to have been abandoned by the gods and cursed. They also ate the flesh of enemies they conquered. The ultimate revenge! One chief is reputed to have eaten 872 people. It was a part of everyday life but cannibalism died (!) out in the late 1800s as the result of the growing influence of Christianity. Government Fiji is a peaceful democracy and it is unlikely visitors will encounter any political unrest. But it hasn t always been that way. Fiji became independent in 1970 following nearly a century as a British colony. Since then democratic rule has been interrupted by several military coups and a number of unelected administrations. As a result Fiji was suspended from the British Commonwealth in September 2009 but reinstated in 2014 after democratic elections won by Frank Bainimarama s Fiji First party. What to Expect when traveling to Fiji and Taveuni 5

6 Economy Tourism and sugar production are key to the financial wellbeing of Fiji. But its economy is somewhat more diverse than that. There is the mining of gold and silver; a strong services sector; and some light manufacturing, primarily garments. And don t forget coconut and Fiji water production. You ll get a warm welcome in Fiji because tourism represents one-sixth of the country s economy and three-quarters of its export earnings. More than half a million visitors grace the shores of Fiji every year twice as many as go to the French Polynesian islands. Language Sugar is more profitable, though, with a quarter of the population relying on this staple for its livelihood. About a quarter of a million metric tons of the stuff is sent each year to the UK, Japan and elsewhere providing direct or indirect jobs for 45,000 folk. Religion Christianity began to gain a foothold in Fiji starting with the visits of missionaries in the 1830s. About 53 percent of the population identifies as Christian; about 34 percent are Methodist and 7 percent Catholic while evangelical Christian churches are very much in the ascendancy. English spoken here! It s the second official language of the country and spoken by just about everyone you re likely to meet. All signs and forms are in English. Native Fijians speak Fijian and Indo-Fijians speak Fiji-Indi. There are about 300 regional varieties of Fijian. Make the effort to learn and use a few common words and you ll fid it s much appreciated by the locals. (See list at the end of this book.) Sunday remains a day of religious observation when many businesses close. Take the time to attend a Sunday service and you ll undoubtedly be impressed by the rich, enthusiastic voices of the choir and congregation. What to Expect when traveling to Fiji and Taveuni 6

7 Village Etiquette Bula. That s the word you ll probably hear most often as you travel around Fiji. It s the national greeting that covers just about everything from hello to goodbye, welcome and good morning well you get the message. It s customary to smile when you meet a stranger and exchange this kind of greeting. Fijian villages are private property so treat them and their people with respect. Don t go running around a village until someone greets you and escorts you to a village leader to whom you present a small offering (a sevusevu ). Even then you will be assigned a guide. If you want to picnic, surf or fish by a village you should also get permission. Take off any shoes or sandals you are wearing before entering a bure the wood and straw huts. And stoop as you walk around inside. Shake hands with your hosts. Clap your hands three times if you want to join others already sitting on mats. Men sit cross-legged; women with legs stretched out or knees up. And be sure not to point your legs at either the chief or the bowl of kava. Kava is regarded as the national drink and is partaken with great ceremony. (It also has a middle sedative some say euphoric effect). In the villages only the chiefs are allowed to wear hats. And don t carry items such as backpacks and cameras slung over your shoulders it s proper to hold them in your hands. Dress code is that modesty prevails. Men should wear shirts and women should make sure their shoulders and thighs are covered. Don t point. Don t raise your voice. Don t enthuse about someone s possession they might feel obligated to give it to you. Alcohol is a no-no. What to Expect when traveling to Fiji and Taveuni 7

8 Traditional Food and Drink The traditional Fijian diet consists of root crops and fruit as well as fish from the ocean and sometimes pork. Vegetables include taro, cassava, breadfruit, yams, and sweet potatoes. The latter originated in South America and how it got to Fiji remains a mystery. The ancient Pacific Islanders came up with an extremely clever way of cooking in an underground earth oven a lovo. Traditional food is usually steamed or boiled. Indo-Fijian dishes are usually spicy. What to Expect when traveling to Fiji and Taveuni 8

9 Climate Temperatures Thanks to the influence of the surrounding waters Taveuni experiences only modest changes in temperature throughout the year. The maximum temperature ranges from an average of 26º-30º C (80º-86º F) and an average minimum temperature range is 20º-23º C (68º-73º F). The coolest months are July and August and the warmest months are January and February. The weather is tropical all year round, with only two seasons, wet and dry. Dry runs from May to November. Water temperature remains at around 26º C (80º F) all year round. Winds Trade winds blow from the east to the south-east and are generally light or moderate. Strong winds are not at all common and when they occur (mostly between June and November) do so through channels and around the headlands. What to Expect when traveling to Fiji and Taveuni 9

10 Tides Tidal range throughout the seasons is very small just 1.1m (3.6ft). Spring tides are higher high tides and lower low tides and occur every fourteen days at the full moon and new moon. Neap tides, which occur during the first and third quarters of the moon, have less variation. They re lower high tides and higher low tides. The mean range of neap tides is 0.9m (2.9ft) and spring tides reach 1.3m (4.2ft). For Nature Lovers Fauna and Flora It s easy to see how Taveuni lives up to its nickname of The Garden Island. It s an archetypically beautiful tropical island, thick with vegetation and resplendent with tropical flowers. Much of the island is pristine rainforest, around 80 percent of which is protected by forest reserve and the Bouma National Heritage Park. Rainfall Those Trade Winds also account for an average of 2600mm (102 ) of rainfall per annum around Matei (our location on Taveuni) through to 4500mm (177 ) in the highlands. Most of it comes in the rainy season. The wettest month is usually March and the driest month is July. When the rain hits it usually comes in heavy and brief local showers and thunderstorms. What to Expect when traveling to Fiji and Taveuni 10

11 Birdlife Taveuni also boasts an eye-catching array of birdlife with about 80 species of terrestrial and freshwater birds. Fortunately, unlike other Fijian islands, Taveuni escaped the introduction of the mongoose, so birds that have vanished elsewhere still thrive here. You ll see red-breasted red parrots, honeyeaters, silktails, fern-tails, goshawks, and orange-breasted doves. You can also expect to catch sight of the jungle fowl, banded rail and purple swamp hen. And don t forget the Fiji flying fox and mastiff bat. Marine Habitat Taveuni s Waitabu Marine Reserve is a vibrant reef dedicated for the benefit of snorkel tourism and environmental education. It s close to the Indo-Pacific center of coral reefs which holds the world s greatest concentration of marine biodiversity. At Waitabu you can see nearly 300 species of hard coral and nearly 1,200 species of reef fish including the hard to miss threeto-six foot Humphead, with its bright electric blue, green and yellow coloring. After many years of overfishing and damaging fishing methods, a successful breeding ground has now been developed for the giant clam. What to Expect when traveling to Fiji and Taveuni 11

12 Arts and Entertainment Fijian Dancing (Meke) The Fijians know how to have a good time. It s exemplified in Meke a combo song and dance and theatrical performance that is the highlight of feasts and special events. The war club dance celebrates courageous historical events. The Fijian men with charcoal faces and wielding spears wear frangipani leis and skirts of shredded leaves. Yagona Ceremony (Kava) You ll probably be exposed to this ceremonial happening especially when you visit Fijian villages. Kava derives from the dried root of the pepper plant and while it is non-alcoholic, it has a tranquilizing effect. It numbs the tongue and the lips. The full ritual is performed only for the high chiefs but you can get a shorthand version in many resorts. Fire-Walking This is another cultural ritual not to be missed! Watch as they dance through a pit of blazing embers and emerge unscathed at the other end. In the old days firewalkers had to abstain from sex (and not eat coconut!) for as long as a month before the fire-walking ceremony. We don t think that rule applies today as fire-walkers perform all year round. What to Expect when traveling to Fiji and Taveuni 12

13 Arts and Crafts and Sports Pottery Making It s thought that the Lapita people introduced the art of pottery-making to Fiji more than 3,000 years ago. Today, some potters still follow the ancient techniques battering pots into shape using wooden paddles. The potter s wheel was not known in the Pacific. The pots, by the way, are extremely fragile. Tapa Cloth You ll see Tapa cloth everywhere as it s Fiji s most characteristic traditional product. Its base is the inner bark of the mulberry, peeled from the tree and soaked in water. Don t miss seeing the women on Vatulele Island off Taveuni produce all manner of red and black colored items tablecloths, wall hangings, place mats, etc. Chances are you ll take something made of Tapa cloth home with you. Woven Goods You ll also find that woven good are readily available. The most common is Pandanus fiber but sago palm, coconut leaf, banana stems and water weeds are all turned into a wide range of products. Spectator Sports Fijians are sport-mad. In particular, they love the game of rugby union both the version with 15 players and the one with seven players a side. The Flying Fijians, the national sevens team, is one of the best in the world and have won two world titles. Soccer and cricket are also popular. What to Expect when traveling to Fiji and Taveuni 13

14 Health and Safety Travel Insurance It is a good idea to take travel insurance that covers your airfare and accommodation as most resorts have a non-refundable policy if cancelled within sixty days of travel. Make sure it includes emergency medical evacuation. Activities such as scuba diving, parasailing and surfing are often excluded so please check. Health Care There are many health centers, hospitals and nursing stations throughout Fiji. Government run facilities are free to residents and have special rates for visitors. But they re very busy. Your best bet is to opt instead for a private doctor or clinic which is not going to be any more expensive for you. If you need an ambulance call 911. Treating Wounds If you get cut or scratched treat it seriously. Cuts can turn septic quite quickly in the tropics and take longer to heal. Immediately clean wounds with soap and fresh water. Then rub in vinegar or alcohol. And for good measure apply antiseptic and antibacterial ointments. An antiseptic is good to have for bites and burns as well. Aloe vera is always an excellent standby by for sunburn and scratches. Of course, if you liberally apply a highfactor sunscreen you should be able to avoid sunburn in the first place. What to Expect when traveling to Fiji and Taveuni 14

15 Dengue Fever Dengue fever is a mosquito-born disease that does exist and can last between five and fifteen days. Symptoms are headaches, sore throat, fever, chills, nausea and pain in the joints as well as a rash. The only treatment is to rest in bed and drink plenty of water until it passes. (But, don t worry. You won t get it.) Safety First You should take the same kind of precautions that you take when traveling anywhere on Earth. But take heart in the fact that Fiji is not known as a dangerous destination not at all. Do the obvious: dress conservatively, stick to busy and well-lit streets at night; stay alert and conscious of your surroundings; don t get drunk; wear a money belt. Some specific local situations: If you visit the capital city of Suva you might encounter some overly-friendly men who get your name, carve it on a mask in no time and demand four times the price you could pay for it at a local shop. (The bizarre masks and swords they offer, by the way, have nothing to do with Fiji.) Avoid anyone asking you to give them a F$50 for two F$20 s and one F$10. They ll switch notes on you. You might also get a warm welcome in local bars where the drinkers expect you to cough up for their drinks and snacks. That s OK as long as you don t get too embroiled and you know when it s time to leave. Also, if you re scuba diving or swimming in certain areas you might find local people demand to be paid for the privilege. Know that all of the beaches and reefs are owned by the state and they don t have the right to do this, so just extricate yourself without a fuss. Note: While the above can happen on some of the islands it won t happen in Taveuni. What to Expect when traveling to Fiji and Taveuni 15

16 Time and Money The Meaning Of Time Fiji time is Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) plus twelve hours. What s that mean for an American visitor? When it is midday in Fiji it is 4:00 pm the day before in Los Angeles; i.e. Fiji is twenty hours ahead of Los Angeles. But know that when you re in Fiji time is not the same as in the states Fijians operate on coconut time the pace of life is slower, service is casual, and appointments don t happen on time. Relax and enjoy! You re on the islands of Fiji not Manhattan. The Meaning Of Money The Fijian currency is the Fiji dollar. You can get the current exchange rate by visiting One side of the notes has a photo of Her Majesty the Queen of England, as Fiji is still part of the British Commonwealth. It s a stable currency. The exchange rate in April 2016 was approximately US$1 = F$2.06. Most banks have ATMs but be aware of the charges. And carry sufficient Fijian cash especially if you go to the outer islands. The ability to use your credit card is not guaranteed. Communications Phone Check with your cell phone carrier what deals you can get when traveling overseas. You can also buy telephone cards in Fiji from post offices and many of the shops. Phone calls from hotel rooms can get expensive. Internet Fiji has long held a reputation for being the most advanced country in the South Pacific for Internet access. Internet cafes offer inexpensive rates on a per-hour basis. Even remote islands now provide access. Many mid-range and above quality hotels have WiFi connections. Electricity You ll probably need a converter (and adapter). Get them before you leave home. Fiji uses 240 AC voltage with three pin power points. What to Expect when traveling to Fiji and Taveuni 16

17 Travel Tips Taking The Kids With You Fiji is family-friendly! They love kids. And you ll find many hotels and resorts offer good discounts for children. The country is one big playground for kids. Solo Women Taveuni Island Activities Scuba Diving Many visitors are drawn to Taveuni Island simply because it is home to some of the best diving spots on the planet and is known as the soft coral capital of the world. Each of Taveuni s numerous dive sites delivers a unique experience exploring multicolored reefs and stunning varieties of marine life. Choose from Rainbow Reef, The Great White Wall, Annie s Bommie, The Ledge, Yellow Grotto, The Purple Wall, The Zoo, The Fish Factory and more for an unforgettable encounter of a lifetime. Get up close to manta rays, barracudas, white tip sharks, large groupers, sea turtles, moray eels, long nose hawk fish, leopard sharks and more. If you want to be left alone dress conservatively and stay focused with an air of determination. There are few problems for solo women travelers in Fiji, especially in Taveuni certainly a lot less than many other countries. But, no matter where you go in the world, it always makes sense to be careful. The only snag is that a western woman might find plenty of proposals of marriage! What to Expect when traveling to Fiji and Taveuni 17

18 Choose a challenging dive or a more relaxing dive. The premier dive operator in Taveuni caters to all levels of experience and only uses the latest dive equipment and the services of friendly and highlytrained PADI instructors. Hiking Take a trip to the Bouma National Heritage Park. This important nature reserve in the northeast of the island offers a beautiful rainforest where you can walk to the three incredible waterfalls of Bouma Falls. Thrill to the sights and sounds of rare tropical birds as you make your way through the exotic plant life. It s just a ten minute walk that doesn t require much effort to reach the first waterfall. Reaching the second waterfall is a little demanding, but is rewarded with fabulous views and the opportunity to swim and picnic along the way. The upper waterfall necessitates a further thirty to forty minutes hike, but leaves no-one disappointed. What to Expect when traveling to Fiji and Taveuni 18

19 Waitabu Marine Park Awarded the International British Airways Eco-Tourism Award for good reason. The Waitabu Villagers provide an extremely warm welcome beginning with morning tea and a fascinating cultural experience of Fijian village life. The Lavena Coastal Walk (and Kayak) Your visit includes a trip up the river on a traditional bamboo Bilibili raft, snorkeling in the marine reserve, kava ceremony, local island dance and song. The villagers are rightly proud of the heritage they have worked so hard to preserve and share and you are asked to participate by dressing modestly and covering your legs. While in the village it is also a sign of respect to remove your hat and sunglasses. You can t leave Taveuni without making your way to Lavena, the furthest point you can venture on the eastern side of the island. You can walk in and out and kayak (or take a boat) there and walk back for a truly memorable day out. Your walk begins on a white sandy beach with rock pools. You ford rivers, cross a suspension bridge, marvel at the rushing waterfalls and pass Naba village, still inhabited by descendents of blackbirded Solomon Islanders. The walk is about ninety minutes each way. What to Expect when traveling to Fiji and Taveuni 19

20 Wairiki Mission Church Just a kilometer away is the picturesque Catholic mission a large stone church with stained glass and acclaimed sculptures making it the most architecturally interesting building on the island. You won t see any pews, though. The congregation sits on the floor Fijian-style. Visit on a Sunday to hear singing that will live in your mind forever. The International Date Line There are few land masses in the world that are crossed by the International Date Line the 180 degree Meridian Line and Taveuni is one of them. So it s safe to say that each new day starts here. Mark the occasion by a visit to this famous landmark at an elevated viewpoint at Waiyevo. Photo opportunity! What to Expect when traveling to Fiji and Taveuni 20

21 Waitavala Natural Waterslide Another of the island s striking natural beauties and a lot of fun especially after heavy rains. Set in the midst of beautiful tropical foliage. Try to visit on the weekends or during school holidays when the local kids can show you how it s done. Vidawa Forest Walk Black Pearl Farm Tour Recognized all over the world for their specific natural colors, Fijian pearls are the most sought after pearls in the world. You want black pearls? You ll find them on Taveuni. But, also, there are pearls in amazing colors of gold, blue, green, pink, champagne, blue, chocolate and cranberry that are unique to the CIVA Pearl Farm in the Wailoa Lagoon. Visit the pearl farm and you ll see the nursery where the mature oysters are harvested and a guide will explain the whole process. If you re feeling fit and up for a full-day excursion put the Vidawa Forest Walk on your must-do list. Taking an experienced and knowledgeable guide you ll start with a scenic drive to Vidawa village before embarking on a rigorous hike that s suitable for regular walkers and not the faint of heart. Along the trail you ll see the sites of historic fortified villages, enjoy spectacular views of the coast and outer islands, and get an education about the abundant flora and fauna. Your reward at the end is a refreshing swim in the waters of the Bouma Falls. What to Expect when traveling to Fiji and Taveuni 21

22 Getting There Getting To Fiji Look at Fiji s location on a world map and you could be forgiven for thinking that it s a remote hard-toget-to destination. But it s not. Fiji s national airline, Fiji Airways, has regular flights from major international cities in the Unites States, Australia, New Zealand and elsewhere. Other airlines such as Air New Zealand, Korean Air, Virgin Australia, Air Niugini, Air Vanuatu and Jetstar all have flights into Nadi International Airport, the main gateway into the country. You can board a flight in the evening in L.A. and wake up in the morning to start a new day in Fiji. Upon arrival you ll find that you will probably be automatically given a four-month visa. No special application is required you just need a passport that is valid for at least six months before your planned departure date from the country. Getting to Taveuni From the international airport of Nadi to the island of Taveuni is just a one hour twentyfive minute flight that s an experience in itself with its bird s eye view of scenic outer islands and the sparkling waters of the South Pacific. Fiji Link and Air Fiji operate daily flights in both directions to and from Taveuni. For a truly memorable transfer treat yourself and make the final leg of your journey by private plane or helicopter. Check out: Pacific Island Air Island Hoppers What to Expect when traveling to Fiji and Taveuni 22

23 Basic Fijian Phrases Most people you ll meet in Fiji speak good English. But you ll find that the locals really appreciate it if you ve made an effort to learn a few words of Fijian. Note that there are no sounds equivalent to the English b, c and d sounds. The sound mb is written b, nd is d, ng is g, ngg is q and th is c. Au saa liu mada See you later Au tabaki iko mada -- Can I take your photo? Bula A Fijiian greeting, popularly used Bure A Fijian thatched house Dary lako! Let s go Dua One E sega ni macalaio Yes Kana Eat Kauta mai Bring Kocei na yacamu? What s your name? Koro Village Lailai Small Levu Big, much Maleka Delicious Moce Goodbye Na cava oqo? What is this? Ni sa moce Goodnight Ni sa yadra Good morning Oilei Help Qiria na vuniwai Call the doctor Rua Two Sa vinaka It s OK Tale Once more Tolu Three Vale lailai Toilet Vinaka Thank you Wai Water Yadra Good morning Yalo vinaka Please What to Expect when traveling to Fiji and Taveuni 23

24 About the authors What we really wanted was a place forgotten by time, where people were not materialistic, and had barely been touched by modern civilization. And where their highest value is happiness. We found the place and built the experience! It s called Raiwasa Grand Villa and it s a 5-star luxury retreat undisputedly not only one of the most luxurious villas in the whole of Fiji, but also one of the world s most exclusive hideaways. A dream home in a dream location for a dream vacation or honeymoon. My name is Patrick. I m French-Swiss and American. My wife, Erika, is Swedish. Our children, Oskar and Estelle, were born and raised in the United States and Europe, and are tri-lingual. We re an international family and we ve traveled extensively. As successful entrepreneurs who founded, managed and then sold several medical companies, we worked hard, really hard even sacrificing time with our children to gain material comforts. Our wake-up call was losing very close friends to cancer (this book is dedicated to them and to others whose life slipped away too early). It made us stop, take a long, hard look at our lives, and decide we weren t going to wait for our retirement years to start living life. Instead, we took a year off and, as a family, traveled the world. I home-schooled every morning while Erika planned our trip and outings. As you can imagine we covered a lot of ground in a year. We spent a lot of time in hotels, resorts, and rental homes (not to mention boats, planes and automobiles). In fact, we spent a lot of time in 5-star hotels and resorts. But they just didn t seem genuine to us. Most places felt manufactured, manipulated and corporate. If you are looking for an experience of a lifetime make your way to the website or us at Patrick@ raiwasa.com or Erika@raiwasa.com. Mention this ebook for a special gift. Whether as our hosts or with someone else we hope you come to Taveuni Island and experience Paradise (that s not a cliché). Bula and Carpe Diem. Patrick and Erika Dedicated to : Christian Rodriguez and Lena Onakil who started us off on this wonderful journey of life, love and freedom. What to Expect when traveling to Fiji and Taveuni 24

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