10 THINGS TO DO IN. Penang
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1 10 THINGS TO DO IN Penang
2
3 IN A NUTSHELL Penang is a menagerie of rich cultural and historical legacies all blended in a compact island roughly one-half the size of Singapore. The food is a major scene and is a vein in everyday life.
4 INTRODUCTION When we think history, it s not just physical vestiges that are all in the dust. They re alive and breathing well today. When you think you re done with the history (though we bet you won t), a lush greenery of hills and meander roads await you at the larger part of the island. To blend everything in, the food scene in Penang is like the blood that runs between the rich history and culture. Penang is an easy weekend gateway. It s compact, relatively modern but still keeps its old-age charm. Prepare a good sandal.
5 HERE ARE THE TEN THINGS YOU DO HERE 1. Early morning walk in Lebuh Chulia 2. Evening in Little India 3. Savour Assam Laksa in Weld Quay 4. Live life at a leisurely pace 5. Catch a ride to Balik Pulau
6 HERE ARE THE TEN THINGS YOU DO HERE 6. Eat in the breeze at Fort Cornwallis 7. Cross to Butterworth 8. Ride up to Bukit Bendera 9. Eat your heart out at a kopitiam 10. Walk through the history
7 ORIENTATION To Butterworth Bukit Bendera Balik Pulau Georgetown Sg. Nibong Bus Terminal PENANG BRIDGE Penang International Airport
8 GEORGETOWN FORT CORNWALLIS Lebuh Light LEBUH CHULIA LITTLE INDIA Lebuh Chulia Lebuh King Lebuh Penang Lebuh Pantai FERRY TO BUTTERWORTH ASSAM LAKSA KOMTAR Weld Quay
9 GETTING HERE Four main points to arrive: BY AIR Penang International Airport (IATA: PEN) BY LAND (BUS) Komtar Bus Terminal (City centre) Sungai Nibong Bus Terminal (Closest to Penang bridge) BY LAND (TRAIN) Butterworth Train Station (Cross with ferry)
10 GETTING AROUND Four main modes to go around: RapidPenang Bus Services (Recommended, cheapest) Rent a car (Various choices) Rent a bike/motorbike (Various choices) Taxi/cab (Some don t use meter so you need to negotiate)
11
12 1. Early morning walk in Lebuh Chulia
13 LEBUH CHULIA Lebuh Farquhar Lebuh Light Esplanade Park Lorong Love Lebuh Chulia Jl. Masjid Kapitan Keling Lebuh Queen Lebuh King Lebuh Penang Lebuh Pantai Lebuh Union Gat Lebuh Acheh Weld Quay
14 1. EARLY MORNING WALK IN LEBUH CHULIA Lebuh Chulia is in the center of Georgetown, the capital of Penang state. It is literally also the heart of a preserved old town. This is the ideal place to start and base your journey in Penang. Numerous budget accommodations line in front of this street and behind all those lorongs or lanes that connect to the main street. Some notable sights along this street is endless array of Straits-style Chinese shophouses, Kapitan Keling mosque, numerous eateries, and if you meander along the lanes, you can find more surprises like an old wet market (Campbell Market), Little India (for its
15 1. EARLY MORNING WALK IN LEBUH CHULIA food), Beach Rd. for chick cafes and plenty others. Get your breakfast at a local mamak stall. It s the best. Be sure to wander early morning at around 7am so that there is hardly any traffic going around and you can see fresh produces from the street markets. It gets really hot during the day and traffic jams are common.
16 1. EARLY MORNING WALK IN LEBUH CHULIA Where: Lebuh Chulia, it s easily noticeable because it s the main street in old town. When: Early morning, 6 to 7 am How: Walk
17 2. Evening in Little India
18 LITTLE INDIA Lebuh Farquhar Lebuh Light Esplanade Park Lorong Love Lebuh Chulia Jl. Masjid Kapitan Keling Lebuh Queen Lebuh King Lebuh Penang Lebuh Pantai Lebuh Union Gat Lebuh Acheh Weld Quay
19 2. EVENING IN LITTLE INDIA Just a shy away from Lebuh Chulia is the entrance to a colorful world of Little India. Now, like everywhere, you d expect some glaring audio from music shops, different kind of smells from all the different kinds of Indian snacks and cuisines from the endless choices of eateries, and not to say the last, a feast for the eyes for all the displays of vibrant shop signages. It s everything for the senses. Some delicacies are must-haves in Little India: thosai, mutton rice and puthu. Thosai is a thin crepe made of flour, roasted and usually served in a single rolled leaf that would roll your eyes for
20 2. EVENING IN LITTLE INDIA its sheer size. Your choice of fillings, from a simple plain thosai to a delish masala and onion-sprinkled mashed potato add some chutneys of your choice too it s like an all-day energy-booster you can always rely on. Mutton rice is like what it says: it s rice over mutton (or vice versa, if you prefer). Topped up with curry sauce, make sure you eat with your bare hands. Sounds rude, but this is how you do it. It is eaten on top of banana leaf. Wash things down with cardamom-sprinkled teh tarik. Then, puthu is a great dessert or afternoon time snack that you can buy off a street vendor.
21 2. EVENING IN LITTLE INDIA Where: Little India, enter through Lebuh King or Lebuh Penang When: Evening, starting from 3 or 4pm How: Walk
22 3. Savour Assam Laksa in Weld Quay
23 WELD QUAY Lebuh Farquhar Lebuh Light Esplanade Park Lorong Love Lebuh Chulia Jl. Masjid Kapitan Keling Lebuh Queen Lebuh King Lebuh Penang Lebuh Pantai Lebuh Union Gat Lebuh Acheh Weld Quay
24 3. SAVOUR ASSAM LAKSA IN WELD QUAY Assam laksa is a fine delicacy unique to Penang, and the northern part of Malaysian peninsula in general. It s a soupy, noodle-y dish tossed in an aromatic and fresh broth, topped up with fish shreds, torch ginger slices, shallots, chillis, tamarind and other fine-tuned tropical ingredients made especially for your senses. Influences of Chinese, Thai and Malay cuisines abound in this dish. There are, of course, several versions throughout the island, but being close to the heart of Georgetown, this particular stall wins the day.
25 3. SAVOUR ASSAM LAKSA IN WELD QUAY Where: Lebuh Ghat Aceh off Weld Quay When: Noon for lunch, or afternoon for relaxed walk How: Cycle, motorcycle or walk
26 4. Live life at a leisurely pace
27 LEBUH CHULIA, LEBUH PANTAI, WELD QUAY Lebuh Farquhar Lebuh Light Esplanade Park Lorong Love Lebuh Chulia Jl. Masjid Kapitan Keling Lebuh Queen Lebuh King Lebuh Penang Lebuh Pantai Lebuh Union Gat Lebuh Acheh Weld Quay
28 4. LIVE LIFE AT A LEISURELY PACE Head up to the nearest modern coffee shop (or a kopitiam for that matter). Or just wait by the side of the road until a make-shift food court appears by the side of it. If you choose, just walk around your local neighborhood and find surprises: food festival, street arts, old man on a bike. Life life at your own leisure, and it s possible in Georgetown. Walk around and discover something new.
29 4. LIVE LIFE AT A LEISURELY PACE Where: Around Lebuh Chulia, Weld Quay and Beach Rd (Lebuh Pantai). When: Anytime of day How: Cycle, motorcycle or walk
30 5. Catch a ride to Balik Pulau
31 PENANG BRIDGE THE WHOLE PENANG ISLAND To Butterworth Bukit Bendera Balik Pulau Georgetown Sg. Nibong Bus Terminal Penang International Airport
32 5. CATCH A RIDE TO BALIK PULAU Balik Pulau literally means the back of the island. The western part of the Penang island is pretty much a lush green paradise. Georgetown and most of the developments are in the eastern part of the island. Rent a car or take a bus, pick a map and then stop by to eat seafood or kampong dishes and enjoy the lush greeneries through meandering roads. Remember to be back by the evening
33 5. CATCH A RIDE TO BALIK PULAU Where: Western part of the island When: Early morning to evening (all-day) How: Bus or rent a car
34 6. Eat in the breeze at Fort Cornwallis
35 FORT CORNWALLIS Lebuh Farquhar Lebuh Light Esplanade Park Lorong Love Lebuh Chulia Jl. Masjid Kapitan Keling Lebuh Queen Lebuh King Lebuh Penang Lebuh Pantai Lebuh Union Gat Lebuh Acheh Weld Quay
36 6. EAT IN THE BREEZE AT FORT CORNWALLIS There s a couple of eateries near Fort Cornwallis, you can pick any place you d like, although we recommend the one closest to the fort and away from the shore. This food court probably has no name, but there s a special dish called mee sotong, which is basically a squid friend noodle (the super-nicest version). Quench your thirst with a coconut float, which is a coconut water drink with a vanilla ice cream on top of it. Make your way to Fort Cornwallis if you want, then to the shore where you can sit for as long as you wish.
37 6. EAT IN THE BREEZE AT FORT CORNWALLIS Where: Northeastern-most part of the island. Get to Lebuh Light and cross the street to the old fort. When: Starting from 10am How: Bus, cycle or walk
38 7. Cross to Butterworth
39 THE PIER Lebuh Farquhar Lebuh Light Esplanade Park Lorong Love Lebuh Chulia Jl. Masjid Kapitan Keling Lebuh Queen Lebuh King Lebuh Penang Lebuh Pantai Lebuh Union Gat Lebuh Acheh Weld Quay
40 7. CROSS TO BUTTERWORTH There s a very-frequent ferry service between Georgetown and Butterworth in the mainland. This service is free Butterworth-bound, and less than a ringgit the other way around. Butterworth is nothing much to see, but you can see the Penang bridge (longest in south east Asia) from the ferry ride. First ferry departs Butterworth at 05:20am, the last being at 00:40am. First ferry departs from Georgetown at 05:40am, the last being at 01:00am. If you want to catch the peninsula train heading to Singapore, Kuala Lumpur or Bangkok, this is the transportation mode you have to use first.
41 7. CROSS TO BUTTERWORTH Where: Northeastern part of Georgetown, just ask where ferry terminal is. When: Ideally 8am when it s not too hot and you can see the bridge. How: Bus to ferry terminal
42 8. Ride up to Bukit Bendera
43 BUKIT BENDERA Bukit Bendera Georgetown Start here at Komtar
44 8. RIDE UP TO BUKIT BENDERA Bukit Bendera ( the hill of the flag ) is situated at 833 m above sea level and it s a strategic point to view Georgetown and the northeast portion of Penang island. You will enjoy the ride up and down, in a modern rail-based transport that takes around 10 minutes each way. Bring your umbrella in case it rains or shines too hard. It can also get very windy up there. To get here, you need to catch bus 204 from Komtar or from Weld Quay. The 6 km journey would approximately take minutes depending on traffic. The fee to go up is RM30 for foreigners, return trip.
45 8. RIDE UP TO BUKIT BENDERA Where: Air Itam, central part of the island, west from Georgetown When: 7am finish How: Bus no. 204 from Komtar/Weld Quay
46 9. Eat your heart out at a kopitiam
47 9. EAT YOUR HEART OUT AT A KOPITIAM You can find kopitiams in almost every modern part of the world, but nothing beats the charm of old-age, original version. Penang is one of the forefronts in this Chinese peranakan coffee culture. As in any kopitiams, try kopi-o or kopi, both -c or -peng. No idea what those are? Well, you have to learn those terms first Dishes vary from just toasts and half-boiled eggs to something like wonton noodles. Just walk around Georgetown, particularly in Lebuh Chulia and find the flocks there s a good chance you ll bump into a (good) stall.
48 9. EAT YOUR HEART OUT AT A KOPITIAM Where: Almost any part of Georgetown and Penang island When: All day, really How: Walk, cycle, motorcycle, rent a car, bus
49 10. Walk through the history
50 SOME OF THE HIGHLIGHTS CHONG FAT TZE MANSION FORT CORNWALLIS Lebuh Light CLOCK TOWER PERANAKAN MUSEUM MASJID KAPITAN KELING CAMPBELL MARKET Lebuh Chulia Lebuh King Lebuh Penang Lebuh Pantai Weld Quay
51 10. WALK THROUGH THE HISTORY With old colonial-style buildings mixed with Chinese Straits-style shophouses lined up along the historic Georgetown, you can t miss the history. Some buildings are converted into museums that you might want to visit. Peranakan Museum and Cheong Fat Tze Mansion are both recommended, although if you don t, a sheer walk covering Georgetown is enough to feel the historical value, especially in Lebuh Pantai (Beach Rd.) A (rather) complete list in the next page.
52 10. WALK THROUGH THE HISTORY Historical highlights: Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion, Lebuh Leith China Town Clock Tower, Pesiaran King Edward Esplanade Fort Cornwallis Nagore Shrine Penang Islamci Museum Penang Museum of Art Gallery Pinang Peranakan Mansion Residence of Ku Din Ku Meh State Art GAllery Sun Yat Sen s Penang Base Dr. Sun Yat Sen Museum War Museum
53 10. WALK THROUGH THE HISTORY Where: Mostly in Georgetown When: All day How: Walk, cycle, motorcycle, rent a car, bus
54 Photo Gallery
55 Street hawker prepares his dinner for everybody in Lebuh Chulia.
56 Georgetown heritage trail puts decent signages that help you get around
57 The deteriorating city hall in Esplanade doesn t make it less beautiful.
58 Old couple enjoying the afternoon breeze at Esplanade.
59 As an art scene, Georgetown streets can sometimes be quirky.
60 Old and new: Modern coffee shops and old kopitiams live side-by-side in harmony.
61 When days get hot (and they do), find one of these drink hawker stalls.
62 Malay-English (Manglish) is a cute everyday conversation-starter.
63 A man doing watercolor painting of Lebuh Chulia in the afternoon.
64 Scouring the morning markets around Campbell Old Market.
65 Architectural details abound if you really look into them.
66 Don t be fooled by the mediocre-looking building. It can have great food
67 Try this cardamom-sprinkled teh tarik at Veloo Villas, Little India.
68 Looking at the Penang Bridge from the Bukit Bendera.
69 Inside the Peranakan mansion that is now a museum.
70 Locals walk on the street.
71 At one side from Lebuh Chulia.
72 Wonton noodle.
73 Life is relaxed at early mornings.
74 Looking at the bay to Tanjong Bungah from Eastern & Oriental Hotel.
75 Old Campbell Market.
76 A bowl of assam laksa. It may look ugly, but sure is worth a try.
77 Penang High Court building.
78 Picture frames at Old Penang Hostel.
79
80 Thank you for using this guide. We picked top ten activity you could do at leisurely pace that would give you a great glimpse of what the destination is about. One thing is for sure: we don t want to be an encyclopedia. We know you d think this guide would have more to offer, but we believe in curating our best experiences, so they can be uniquely yours, too. us at info@ranselkecil.com for suggestions and critics. Visit us at ranselkecil.com/guides for more guides
81 Ransel Kecil means little backpack, which originated as a travel blog back in the 2010, serving Indonesian readers. Our content comes from our readers, sometimes from our own editors. We share journeys, photo essays, tips, accommodations, food and many others in the hope of spreading travel bug among Indonesian young generation.
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