All you ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go! TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER LONELY PLANET. Itineraries THAILAND MYANMAR (BURMA)

Transcription

1 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All you ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go! TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER LONELY PLANET Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions to help you put together your perfect trip TOP EXPERIENCES Island Hopping in Trang Language Don t know a lick of Thai? In most places you don t need to. Tourist towns are well stocked with English speakers. Bus drivers, market vendors and even taxi drivers are less competent speakers. In small, less touristy towns, it helps to know how to order food and count in Thai. With just a few phrases, you ll be rewarded with big grins. Thais have their own script, which turns educated Westerners Whether you ve got six daysinto or illiterates. Street signs are always transliterated into English, but 60, these itineraries providethere a is no standard system so spellings vary widely and confusingly. starting point for the trip ofnot a all letters are pronounced as they appear. Confounding, huh? lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.booking Ahead com/thorntree to chat with other While it s very easy to score walk-in bookings at many midrange and budget spots, we recommend booking your Àrst few nights in advance. travellers. The following phrases will help you when booking accommodation. Hello. I would like to book a room. a single room a double room _ Bangkok MYANMAR (BURMA) My name is CAMBODIA from to (date) How much is it? per night for two people Thank you. 2 ª sà-wàt-dee What to Pack Passport Credit card Driving licence Phrasebook Power converter GSM mobile phone Mobile phone charger Sunscreen Mosquito repellent with DEET Anti-itch cream (for sandfly bites) Light, long-sleeve shirts o n o Á ª o Á ¼n / º... µ ª... ¹ ª... ³Á nµå º ε kŀr jorng hôrng nòy hôrng dèe o hôrng ăee ang kôo pŀm/dì-chõn chêu (m/f) jàhk wan têe tćung wan têe lá tôw-rai keun sõm ràp sŀrng kon kòrp kun Breathable pants Hat Sunglasses Beach towel Comfortable sandals Torch/headlamp Camera Antibiotics REGIONAL Cultural Day trips & itineraries In-depth Ko Tao Gulf of Thailand Ko Samui Krabi Railay ENCOUNTER NT R NTE Pocket-sized Easy-to-use Highlights The dive-master s island, Ko Tao (p207) is the cheapest and easiest spot around to learn how to strap on a tank and dive into the deep. The water is warm and gentle, Ko Pha-Ngan ANDAMAN SEA DISCOVER Best-of Photo-packed nspirational Inspirational and the submarine spectacles are not to be Everyone needs a helping handmissed. Just oֆshore, scenic rocky coves when they visit a country for and coral reefs frequented by all sorts of Àsh provide a snorkelling aperitif. Its small the first time. There are phrases size means you can explore all of its jungle to learn, customs to get used tonooks and crannies, looking for a sandy niche to call your own. and etiquette to understand. The following section will help demystify Thailand so your first trip goes as smoothly as your fifth. First Time f irst time Itineraries COUNTRY & CITY The original Comprehensive ensive Compreh A Adventur ous Adventurous Blowing Bubbles in Ko Tao The early-morning sun casts honey-like shadows across another deep-green isle popping out of the blue. The warm wind ru es your hair and all you can hear is the motor of the long-tail boat. The whole scene is framed by the carved and weathered boat bow decorated in colourful bands of cloth. Your next destination is that white beach in the distance one of many to explore, hike and snorkel but the boat ride is so extraordinarily relaxing and gorgeous, you enjoy it as much as the idea of being at your destination (p335). Ko Kradan (p340) 1 Welcome to Thailand s Islands & Beaches Top Experiences... Need to Know... First Time... What s New... If You Like... Month by Month... Choose Your own Beach Adventure... Itineraries... Diving & Snorkelling... Eat & Drink Like a Local... Travel with Children... Regions at a Glance... YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT 2 PLAN YOUR TRIP PAGE Get the right guides for your trip PHRASEBOOK PHRASEBO HRASEBO Looking for other travel resources? PAGE 355 UNDERSTAND S ISLANDS & BEACHES Thailand s Islands & Beaches Today... History & Politics... People & Society... Food & Drink... Environment... GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP Learn about the big picture, so you can make sense of what you see Thailand: A Short History (2003) by David K Wyatt A History of Thailand (2009) by Chris Baker and Pasuk Phongpaichit Chronicle of Thailand: Headlines Since 1946 (2010) by William Warren sionist Western owers on its bor er on y to ce e their a so ute gri on the country when challenged by forces within. Since the transition to a constitutional monarchy in 1932, the military pre ominant y ru es the country with a few democratic hiccups in between. Unrave ing Thai land s 20th-century history provides immense insight into the unfolding political drama of today. Ancient History Little evidence remains of the cultures that existed in Thailand before the middle of the 1st millennium AD. Homo erectus fossils in Thailand northern province of Lampang date back at least 500,000 years, an the country s most important archaeological site is Ban Chiang, outside Udon Thani, which provides evidence of one of the world s oldest agrarian societies. It is believed that the Mekong River Valley and Khorat Plateau were inhabited as far back as 10,000 years ago by farmers and bronze-workers. Cave paintings in Pha Taem near Ubon Ratchathani date back some 3000 years. Early Empires Starting in the 1st millennium, the Tai people, who are considered the ancestors of the contemporary Thais, began emigrating from southern China into present-day Southeast Asia. These immigrants came in consecutive waves and spoke Tai-Kadai, a family of monosyllabic and tonal Environment BC 6th 11th centuries 9 13th centuries Prehistoric people develop pottery, rice cultivation and bronze metallurgy in northeastern Thailand. Dvaravati establish city-states in central Thailand. Angkor extends control across parts of Thailand. LONELYPLANET.COM For travel information, advice, tips & digital chapters APPS Location-based guides for the street lonelyplanet.com/mobile EBOOKS Guidebooks for your reader lonelyplanet.com/ebooks MAGAZINE For travel stories, inspiration & ideas lonelyplanet.com/magazine The Land Thailand s odd shape bulky and wide up north, with a long pendulous arm draping to the south has often been compared to the head of an elephant. Roughly the size of France, about 517,000 sq km, Thailand stretches an astounding 1650km along a north south axis and experiences an extremely diverse climate, including two distinct monsoons from both the southwest and northwest. The north of the country rises into high forested mountains, while the south consists of a long ridge of limestone hills, covered in tropical rainforest. Bound to the east by the shallow Gulf of Thailand and to the west by the Andaman Sea, an extension of the Indian Ocean, Thailand possesses one of the most alluring coastlines in the world, with exquisitely carved limestone formations above water and tremendously rich coral reefs below. Hundreds of tropical islands of all shapes and sizes adorn the coast, from Áat sand bars covered in mangroves to looming karst massifs licked by azure waters and ringed by white sand beaches. Both coasts have extensive coral reefs, particularly around the granitic Surin Islands an Similan Islands in the Andaman Sea. More reefs and Thailand s m t ramatic limestone islands sit in Ao Phang-Nga near Phuket. The west coast is of particular interest to divers because the waters are stunning y c ear an extremely rich in marine life. ISBN thailands-islands-beaches-8-cover.indd 2 STAY IN TOUCH lonelyplanet.com/contact Paper in this book is certified against the Forest Stewardship Council standards. FSC promotes environmentally responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable management of the world s forests. AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 % , fax twitter.com/ lonelyplanet USA 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA % , toll free , fax facebook.com/ lonelyplanet UK Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ % , fax lonelyplanet.com/ newsletter 13/04/2012 2:47:33 PM

2 PAGE 52 ON THE ROAD YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE In-depth reviews, detailed listings and insider tips Bangkok p54 Ko Chang & Eastern Seaboard p97 Hua Hin & the Southern Gulf p139 Phuket & the Northern Andaman Coast p238 Ko Samui & the Lower Gulf p171 Ko Phi-Phi & the Southern Andaman Coast p300 PAGE 397 SURVIVAL GUIDE VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP Directory A Z Transport Health Language & Glossary Behind the Scenes Index Map Legend on t under and. / kun pôot pah ang-grìt dâi m i p m/dì-ch n mâi kôw jai (m/f) ACCOMMODATION Where s a?... yòo têe n i campsite kâi pák raam gue house bâhn pák hotel rohng raam outh ho el bâhn yow-w THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Brandon Presser Celeste Brash, Austin Bush

3 Look out for these icons: Our author s o recommendation A green or S sustainable option No payment F required BANGKOK KO CHANG & EASTERN SEABOARD Si Racha Ko Si Chang Pattaya Rayong & Ban Phe Ko Samet Chanthaburi Trat Ko Chang Ko Wai Ko Mak Ko Kut HUA HIN & THE SOUTHERN GULF Phetchaburi (Phetburi) Cha-am Hua Hin Hua Hin to Pranburi Pranburi & Around Khao Sam Roi Yot Prachuap Khiri Khan Ban Krut & Bang Saphan Yai Chumphon KO SAMUI & THE LOWER GULF GULF ISLANDS Ko Samui

4 See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book. On the Road Ko Pha-Ngan Ko Tao Ang Thong Marine SURAT THANI PROVINCE Surat Thani NAKHON SI THAMMARAT PROVINCE Ao Khanom Nakhon Si Thammarat SONGKHLA PROVINCE Songkhla & Around Hat Yai DEEP SOUTH Yala Pattani Narathiwat Sungai Kolok PHUKET & THE NORTHERN ANDAMAN COAST..238 PHUKET PROVINCE Phuket Town Ko Sireh Laem Phanwa Rawai Hat Kata Hat Karon Hat Patong Hat Kamala Hat Surin Ao Bang Thao Sirinat National Park Khao Phra Thaew Royal Wildlife & Forest Reserve Thalang District RANONG PROVINCE Ranong Ko Phayam Ko Chang Laem Son National Park PHANG-NGA PROVINCE Khuraburi Surin Islands Marine Ko Phra Thong & Ko Ra Khao Sok Hat Pakarang & Hat Bang Sak Hat Khao Lak Similan Islands Marine Ao Phang-Nga & Phang-Nga Around Phang-Nga Ko Yao KO PHI-PHI & THE SOUTHERN ANDAMAN COAST KRABI PROVINCE Krabi Wat Tham Seua Tharnbok Korannee Ao Nang Around Ao Nang Railay Ko Phi-Phi Don Ko Phi-Phi Leh Ko Lanta Ko Jum & Ko Si Boya TRANG PROVINCE Trang Trang Beaches & Islands Ko Muk Ko Kradan Hat Yao Ko Libong Ko Lao Liang Ko Sukorn SATUN PROVINCE Satun Around Satun Ko Tarutao Marine

5 Mae Nam Chao Phraya Thailand s Islands & Beaches ELEVATION 1000m 500m 200m 100m 0 Sangkhlaburi Khao Laem Reservoir Si Nakharin Tavoy Nam Tok Reservoir Kanchanaburi Ratchaburi Chainat Suphanburi Nakhon Pathom Samut Songkhram Singburi Ang Thong Ayuthaya Pathum Thani Samut Sakhon Lopburi Saraburi BANGKOK Khao Yai Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat) Prachinburi Chachoengsao Chonburi Phimai Pak Thong Chai Top Experiences Aranya Prathet Buriram Prasat Phanom Rung Surin C A M B O D I A Angkor Wat Si Saket Bangkok Thailand s capital: dynamic, vibrant, unmissable (p54) Park Phetchaburi Cha-am Hua Hin Sattahip Si Racha Kaeng Tonlé Krachan Sap Pattaya National Rayong Ko Samet Chanthaburi Hua Hin The king s choice of holiday spot (p148) Prachuap Khiri Khan Ko Kut Trat Ko Chang A N D A M A N S E A Thap Sakae Bang Saphan Ko Samet Weekender fave away from Bangkok s bustle (p111) Ko Kut Jungle-cloaked island with hidden beaches (p136)

6 Ao Phang-Nga Enchanting bay of towering rock spires (p294) Ranong Isthmus of Kra Chumphon Ko Tao Ang Thong Marine Ko Pha-Ngan Ko Tao High-energy scuba nexus (p207) Ang Thong Marine Forgotten islets (p222) I N D I A N O C E A N Surin Islands Marine Similan Islands Marine Phuket Paradigm of luxury along the Andaman (p239) Similan Islands Ko Phi-Phi Inspiring views and raucous nightlife (p316) Surin Islands Khao Lak Phuket Khao Sok Chaiya Phang-Nga Railay Krabi Surat Thani Ko Phi-Phi Ko Lanta Trang Thung Song Kantang Ko Samui Nakhon Si Thammarat Ranot Phattalung Thaleh Luang Ko Pha-Ngan Jungle interior hemmed by perfect beaches (p192) G U L F O F T H A I L A N D Ko Samui Shack up in your private seaside villa (p174) Railay Postcard-worthy karsts are a climber s nirvana (p311) Ko Lanta Low-slung beaches and low-key fun (p324) Trang Islands Quiet islands and lonely beaches (p335) Ko Lipe Bleached-white beaches and azure waters (p349) Ko Tarutao Marine Ko Lipe Pulau Langkawi Thaleh Ban Satun Hat Yai Sadao Alor Setar Songkhla Pattani Betong Sungai Petani Keroh Yala Sungai Kolok Narathiwat 0 0 Kota Bharu M A L A Y S I A 150 km 90 miles S O U T H C H I N A S E A

7 OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end broke but inspired they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony s belief that a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse. OUR WRITERS Brandon Presser Coordinating Author, Ko Samui & the Lower Gulf Growing up in a land where bear hugs are taken literally, this wanderlust-y Canadian always craved swaying palms and golden sand. A trek across Southeast Asia as a teenager was the clincher he was hooked, returning year after year to scuba dive, suntan and savour spoonfuls of spicy sôm-đam (papaya salad). After leaving his job at the Louvre, Brandon joined the glamorous ranks of eternal nomadism and became a full-time freelance travel writer. He s since co-authored over 35 guidebooks for Lonely Planet, from Iceland to Thailand and many lands in between. Visit for more on Brandon. Celeste Brash Phuket & the Northern Andaman Coast, Ko Phi-Phi & the Southern Andaman Coast Celeste first arrived in Thailand as a student of Thai language, history and culture at Chiang Mai University. She s come back many times since and has done the gamut from wild nights on Ko Phang-Ngan to weeks of silence at Wat Suanmok. Her writing has appeared in numerous publications from Travelers Tales books to the LA Times and Islands magazine. She s contributed to around 30 Lonely Planet guides but her heart is irrevocably stuck on Southeast Asia. When not in exotic places, she and her family live in Portland, Oregon. Find her on the web at Austin Bush Bangkok Austin Bush came to Thailand in 1998 on a language scholarship at Chiang Mai University. The lure of city life and a need for employment and spicy food eventually led Austin to Bangkok. City life, employment and spicy food have managed to keep him there since. He s a native of Oregon and a writer and photographer who often focuses on food; samples of Austin s work can be seen at Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN th edition Jul 2012 ISBN Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs as indicated Printed in China Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

8 30 Itineraries Whether you ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other travellers. _ Bangkok MYANMAR (BURMA) CAMBODIA ANDAMAN SEA Ko Tao Ko Pha-Ngan Ko Samui Gulf of Thailand Krabi Railay Ko Phi-Phi Ko Lanta Two Weeks Essential Islands & Beaches Consider this the itinerary for the uninitiated, and what a warm welcome you ll receive. Flying down and back from the islands will save you about a day s worth of travel on either end, so save up those precious pennies to cash on more beach time. From Bangkok, fly down to Krabi where you ll enjoy the craggy spires of stone in Railay, a climber s paradise. Hop a boat over to Ko Phi-Phi and join the legions of bucketwielding backpackers as they sit in the soft sands of the island s signature hourglass bays. A second boat ride will take you safely to the shores of Ko Lanta, with its flat vistas of peachtinged shoreline and lapping azure waves. Travel overland to knock out the gulf s triad of idyllic islands dive-centric Ko Tao, lazy, lie-in-the-sun Ko Pha-Ngan and luxury-focused Ko Samui before flying back to Bangkok. If you can, try to arrange your visit to coincide with the notorious Full Moon Party, which comes roaring to life roughly once a month on Ko Pha-Ngan s southeastern shore.

9 _ Bangkok 31 MYANMAR (BURMA) Hua Hin Khao Sam Roi Yot CAMBODIA ANDAMAN SEA Surin Islands Marine Ang Thong Marine Ko Tao Ko Pha-Ngan Ko Samui Khao Sok Khao Lak Similan Islands Phang-Nga Marine Railay Phuket Ko Phi-Phi Ko Lanta Trang Islands Gulf of Thailand VIETNAM PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES Ko Rawi Ko Adang Ko Lipe One Month The Full Monty A month, you say? There are thousands of perfectly good itineraries to think up but, well, why not consider a hammock tour extraordinaire. Not just any old beach trip, this is enough time to really get to know southern Thailand s islands, beaches and jungle-clad parks. Start your journey in Thailand s capital, Bangkok, before following the coastline south. Your first stop is Hua Hin, the king s preferred holiday destination and home to a thriving local and expat scene that cavorts among seafood markets and charming shanty piers. Hike the craggy hills of quiet Khao Sam Roi Yot before making your way out to Ko Tao. Strap on your tank and dive with the fish below before moving over to Ko Pha-Ngan for some subdued beachside relaxing. Ko Samui, next door, offers a bit more variety and has a magical stash of holiday fodder to suit every budget and desire don t miss the chance to do a day trip out of the wild islets of Ang Thong Marine (which are said to have inspired Alex Garland s The Beach). Swap coasts with a stop in Khao Sok, known to be one of the oldest stretches of jungle in the world. If time permits, hop on a live-aboard diving excursion in Khao Lak to explore the kingdom s finest diving treasures lurking in the Surin and Similan Islands Marine s near the Burmese border. Travel down the coast to Phuket and sample Thailand s finest iteration of luxury hospitality; spend a night in Patong if you dare. Paddle around the limestone karsts of quiet Phang-Nga then sleep beneath the ethereal crags of Ko Phi-Phi after a spirit evening (no pun intended) of beach dancing and fire twirling. Scale the stone towers of Railay, next door, zoom around the flat tracts of land on mellowed-out Ko Lanta, then hop on a boat bound for the Trang Islands paradise found. One last archipelago awaits those who travel further south towards the Malaysian border. Ko Lipe is the island of choice for those looking for something social, but let the local chow lair (sea gypsies; also spelt chao leh) lead you to silent Ko Adang or Ko Rawi next door if you re looking to get away from it all.

10 32 FEARGUS COONEY/LONELY PLANET IMAGES PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES FRANK CARTER/LONELY PLANET IMAGES (above) Ko Kradan (p 340 ) (left) Bungalows on Ko Lipe (p 349 )

11 Surin Islands Marine Similan Islands Marine ANDAMAN SEA Ranong Ko Chang Ko Phayam Khao Sok Khao Lak Ao Phang Nga Railay Phuket Ko Phi-Phi Ko Lanta Trang Islands Khanom Nakhon Si Thammarat Jewels of the Andaman The Trailblazer Trip Gulf of Thailand 33 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES Ko Adang Ko Rawi Ko Lipe MALAYSIA Two Weeks Jewels of the Andaman Dreams of perfect beaches, silky sands and emerald waters come true along the Andaman coast, where limestone crags soar skyward creating infinite moments for that perfect photoopp. Do not pass Go, do not collect $200, just head directly to Phuket to start your journey down one of the finest stretches of coastline in the world. Cruise through the limestone karsts of Ao Phang-Nga National Park, which give Halong Bay a run for its money. Ko Phi-Phi s hourglass bays further south can t be beat, especially when the sun sets behind the earthen crown of Ko Phi-Phi Leh just offshore. Let the towers of stone in Railay cast anthropomorphic shadows on the sands, then sail down to Ko Lanta, a flat island best explored by motorbike. Savour the secrets of the Trang Islands, like the hidden emerald lagoon or the untouched house reef of Ko Kradan, then make your way to the Malaysian border where you ll find tiny Ko Lipe protected by its looming neighbour, Ko Adang. Three Weeks The Trailblazer Trip Buck the travel trends and blaze your own trail through some of the lesser-known beaches and islands of southern Thailand. Start in Ranong, a rather inauspicious welcome mat to the region, then connect to the nearby island of Ko Phayam and little Ko Chang (not to be confused with the big Ko Chang near Cambodia). Trade diver tips in Khao Lak further south and join a live-aboard up to the Burmese border. Then switch coasts, stopping in Khao Sok to enjoy a spot of submarine cave diving. Reward yourself with lazy beach days once you reach the gulf s Khanom. Explore the rich, temple-filled, cultural centre of Nakhon Si Thammarat further south before returning to the Andaman coast for a few more days of island-hopping. Choose among the lonely stone specks of the Trang Islands perhaps Ko Kradan or Ko Sukorn then wander south for a camping excursion with the chow lair on whisper-quiet Ko Adang or Ko Rawi.

12 34 _Bangkok PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES MYANMAR (BURMA) Hua Hin Khao Sam Roi Yot Prachuap Khiri Khan Ko Tao Ko Samet Trat Ko Chang Ko Mak Ko Rang Ko Kut Gulf of Thailand CAMBODIA Ko Pha-Ngan Ko Samui Let s Go Gulf-ing East is Eden Two Weeks Let s Go Gulf-ing With less dramatic weather than its Andaman counterpart, Thailand s gulf is solid choice for a beach holiday almost any time of year. Start in Bangkok and travel overland down to Hua Hin, home to the king s holiday palace. Gorge on fresh fish at the markets before heading for the hills of Khao Sam Roi Yot. Towering limestone, hidden temples and quiet beaches await those with the luxury of time. Roll through the sleepy seaside villages of Prachuap Khiri Khan then grab a boat from Chumphon and hit the cool gulf waters, stopping first in Ko Tao where you can learn all the tricks of the diving trade before moving on to Ko Pha-Ngan to live out your castaway fantasies on one of the island s quiet beaches. Fete the Full Moon before leaving, then set your sights on Ko Samui, the area s largest island and undoubted master of luxury dream holidays. Quainter lodging options and diverse restaurants also stretch as far as the eye can see. Ten Days East is Eden Thailand s southern treasures are undoubtedly the kingdom s major drawcards, but if you re pushed for time or heading into Cambodia, it s worth exploring the eastern gulf. From Bangkok head to rustic Ko Samet, where Bangkokians let loose on weekends. Follow the coast to sleepy Trat then hop on a boat for one of the Ko Chang archipelago s many islands. Ride elephants and hike the interior of jungle-topped Ko Chang, the largest and most developed island in the region. Get further off the beaten track on secluded Ko Mak or rugged Ko Kut. Hardcore Robinson Crusoes can go one step further on neighbouring, ultra-simple Ko Kham or Ko Rayang for some stunning coral. Alternatively, hit up to Ko Rang for a genuine Survivor experience, sans pesky host, cameramen and tribal councils.

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