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1 520 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travel ers your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well- travel ed team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition and the most useful submissions are rewarded with a free book. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. OUR READERS Many thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Björn Ahrens, Diana Frattali-Moreno, Michael Kelly Jr, Pauline Ondei, Cynthia C Rignanese and Mark & Courtney Tate. AUTHOR THANKS Sara Benson Without everyone at Lonely Planet and all of my co-authors, this book would never have seen such smooth sailing. I m grateful to everyone I met on the road who shared their local expertise and tips. Big thanks to all of my coastal friends and family in the Golden State. PS to MSC Jr: Are you ready for more midnight drives and moonlight hikes along the Big Sur coast? Andrew Bender Suki Gear, Alison Lyall and Sam Benson for the opportunity and their good cheer and advice. Thanks also to Adrienne Costanzo, Karen Grant, Corey Hutchison and Bella Li for their assistance on this book. Alison Bing Suki Gear and Sam Benson, whose guidance, insight and support make any tricky mental backbend possible. Shameless California bear hugs to John Vlahides and Robert Landon for setting giddily high writing standards, to fearless leaders Brice Gosnell and Heather Dickson at Lonely Planet, to the Sanchez Writers Grotto, and above all to Marco Flavio Marinucci, whose kindness and bracing espresso make everything possible. Nate Cavalieri Thanks to my partner Florence Chien for joining my research travels through Northern California and giving a careful read to this text. Thanks to Ben Calhoun and Catrin Einhorn for sheltering me while this text was completed. Thanks also to the lovely people at Lonely Planet and particularly for the enthusiasm of commissioning editor and mentor Suki Gear. Bridget Gleeson Thank you to my lovely sister Molly, my brother-in-law Germán, and my dear friend Starla Silver for their hospitality when I m passing through California and to all their friends for their endless dining and drinking suggestions. Thanks, as well, to my mother Margaret, who always serves as my faithful travel companion. Beth Kohn All the usual suspects get thanks again, especially the fabulous multitasking Suki Gear and the dynamo known as Sam Benson. California cohorts and experts this time around

2 included Agent Pedal-to-the-metal Moller, Felix Hella Loves Oakland Thomson, Jenny Stink G, Dillon The Scientist Dutton and Julia Wawona Brashares, plus all the helpful and patient park rangers. John A Vlahides I owe heartfelt thanks to my commissioning editor, Suki Gear, and co-authors, Sam Benson and Alison Bing, for their wonderful help and always-sunny dispositions. Kate Brady, Steven Kahn, Karl Soehnlein, Kevin Clarke, Jim Aloise and Adam Young you kept me upbeat and laughing when things seemed impossible. And to you, the readers: thank you for letting me be your guide to the Wine Country. Have fun. I know you will. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, Cover photograph: Wildflowers bloom along the California coastline, Kodiak Greenwood/ Getty Images. Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images: BEHIND THE SCENES This Book This 4th edition of Coastal California was coordinated by Sara Benson. This guidebook was also researched and written by Andrew Bender, Alison Bing, Nate Cavalieri, Bridget Gleeson, Beth Kohn and John A Vlahides. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet s Oakland office, and produced by the following: Commissioning Editor Suki Gear Coordinating Editors Susie Ashworth, Justin Flynn Coordinating Cartographer Valentina Kremenchutskaya Coordinating Layout Designer Carlos Solarte Managing Editors Annelies Mertens, Anna Metcalfe Senior Editor Angela Tinson Managing Cartographers Shahara Ahmed, Alison Lyall Managing Layout Designer Chris Girdler Assisting Editors Holly Alexander, Jackey Coyle, Elizabeth Anglin, Bella Li Assisting Layout Designers Virginia Moreno, Wibowo Rusli Cover Research Naomi Parker Internal Image Research Sabrina Dalbesio Thanks to Sasha Baskett, Jessica Boland, Brigitte Ellemor, Ryan Evans, Yvonne Kirk, Trent Paton, Kirsten Rawlings, Diana Von Holdt, Gerard Walker

3 526 A accommodations 504-6, see also individual locations activities 30-9, see also individual activities air quality 502 air travel , 515 airports 514 Alcatraz 71 amusement parks 41, see also Disneyland Resort Balboa Fun Zone 411 Belmont Park 439 Children s Fairyland 124 Great America 142 Knott s Berry Farm 407 Legoland California 462 Raging Waters 142 Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk 13, 269, 13 Santa Monica Pier 361 SeaWorld Six Flags Hurricane Harbor 389 Six Flags Magic Mountain 389 Traintown 187 Universal Studios Hollywood Anacapa Island 337 Anaheim accommodations activities drinking 405 food shopping 405 sights tourist information 406 travel to/from 407 travel within Anchor Bay Anderson Valley Angel Island 111 animals animation Map pages 000 Photo pages Año Nuevo State Reserve aquariums 41 Aquarium of the Pacific 363 Birch Aquarium California Academy of Sciences 66 Los Angeles 23 Monterey Bay 23, 278-9, 14 SeaWorld Arcata architecture 347, area codes 19, 510 art galleries, see museums & galleries Asian Art Museum 53 ATMs 509 Avenue of the Giants Avila Beach B B&Bs Balboa Island 412 Balboa Park , 434 Bay Area 44, , 102 accommodations 100, 139 climate 100 food 100, 149, 477 highlights 102 travel seasons 100 travel within 101 beaches 20, 30-1, 41 Agate Beach 117 Avila Beach 317 Baker Beach 60 Bowling Ball Beach 220 Carmel Beach 290 Doheny State Beach 420 Glass Beach Gray Whale Cove State Beach 146 Huntington Beach 409, 28 Jalama Beach County Park 323 Laguna Beach , 416 Long Beach Los Angeles 342 Malibu 360-1, 153 Mission Beach 439 Muir Beach 116 Newport Beach , 412 Ocean Beach County Park 323 Ocean Beach, San Diego 437 Ocean Beach, San Francisco 67 Pacific Beach 439 Pacifica State Beach 146 Partington Cove Pelican State Beach 265 Pfeiffer Beach 294 Pismo Beach Point Reyes National Seashore 13, 120, 13 Red Rock Beach 116 San Buenaventura State Beach 339 San Diego 422 San Pedro 363 Santa Barbara Santa Cruz 270, 271, 157 Santa Monica 361 Seal Beach 12, 22, 408-9, 12 Solana Beach 460 Sonoma Coast State Beach Stinson Beach William Randolph Hearst Memorial State Beach 300 Windansea Beach 441 bears 495 beer 481, see also breweries Benbow Lake 243 Berkeley , 132 accommodations drinking entertainment food shopping 137 sights tourist information 137 travel to/from travel within bicycling, see cycling Big Bear Lake Big Sur 6, 291-9, 292, 7 accommodations food sights tourist information 299 travel to/from 299 travel within 295, 299 birds bird-watching Clear Lake 234 Elkhorn Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve 278 Morro Bay 304 Pescadero 148 Point Arena Bixby Bridge 293 blues music 488 boat travel Bodega Bay Bolinas 22, 117, 17 books 468 border crossings 514 Bowers Museum of Cultural Art breweries Anderson Valley 236 Arcata 256 Berkeley 136

4 527 Eureka 253 Guerneville 204 Half Moon Bay 146 North Coast 229 Paso Robles 312 San Francisco 91 San Luis Obispo 315 Santa Barbara 335 Scotia 249 Sir Francis Drake Blvd 113 Ukiah 238 Ventura 339 budgeting 18 Buena Park 407 bus travel , 516 business hours 506 C California Academy of Sciences 66 Calistoga 22, Cambria camping 505, 36 Anderson Valley 237 Big Bear Lake 392 Big Sur 297 Bodega Bay 216 Carlsbad 462 Catalina Island 390 Channel Islands National Park 338 Fort Ross State Historic Park 219 Gualala 221 Humboldt Redwoods State Park 248 Jackson Demonstration State Forest 241 Klamath 262 Lost Coast 247 Malibu 372 Manchester 222 Marin Headlands 103 Monterey 285 Morro Bay 304 Newport Beach Oakland 125 Pinnacles National Monument 309 Pismo Beach 321 Point Reyes National Seashore 120 Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park 261 San Jose 143 San Simeon State Park 301 Santa Cruz 273 Santa Rosa 206 Sonoma Coast State Beach Van Damme State Park 223 Cannery Row 279 Capitola car travel 19, 514, Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel-by-the-Sea Carrizo Plain National Monument 317 Catalina Island Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels 346 cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals caves Balconies Cave 309 Bear Gulch Cave 309 Cave Store 441 Cayucos cell phones 19, 510 cemeteries Garden of Memories Memorial Park 308 Hollywood Forever Cemetery 355 Mountain View Cemetery 124 Westwood Village Memorial Park 359 Central Coast 45, , 268, 276-7, 280, 318 accommodations 267 climate 267 food 267, highlights 268 travel seasons 267 Channel Islands National Park 15, 336-8, 15 Chez Panisse 135 children, travel with 40-3 Los Angeles San Diego 428 San Francisco 95 San Jose 142 Santa Barbara 331 wineries 177 churches & cathedrals Cathedral Basilica of St Joseph 142 Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels 346 First Church of Christ Scientist 131 Glide Memorial United Methodist Church 53 Grace Cathedral 57 Old St Mary s Church 55 Royal Presidio Chapel 281 Saints Peter & Paul Church 56 Wayfarers Chapel 362 City Lights Bookstore 55-6 City of Ten Thousand Buddhas 240 Clear Lake climate 18, see also individual regions climate change 513 Coit Tower 58 condors 296 cooking courses 187, 208, 236, Coronado Costa Mesa 415 costs 18 courses, see cooking courses Crescent City culture currency 19 customs regulations 506 cycling 37-9, 515, 519, 23, see also mountain-biking Angel Island 111 Healdsburg 208 Los Angeles 367 Mendocino 225 Monterey 282 Oakland 124 San Francisco 67 Santa Barbara 331 Sausalito 105, 109 Sonoma 187 cycling tours Los Angeles 369 Napa & Sonoma wine country San Diego 445 Santa Barbara wine country 326 D Dana Point 420 dangers, see safety Dean, James 311 Del Mar , 152 Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park Devil s Slide 146 dialing codes 510 disabilities, travelers with Disney, Walt 490 Disneyland park Disneyland Resort 8, 45, , 398, 8 accommodations 393, climate 393 drinking 405 entertainment 401, 405 FASTPASS 396, 405 food 393, 404 highlights 394 internet resources 406 shopping 405 sights tourist information 406 travel to/from 395, 406 travel within 395, Disney s California Adventure diving 33-4 Monterey 282 San Diego INDEX B-D

5 528 INDEX D-H drinks , see also wine driver s licenses 516 driving, see car travel E earthquakes 138, 497, 498 economy 467 electricity 505, 507 elephant seals 149, 299, Elk 223 elk 495 Encinitas 461 environmental issues 337, 466, Eureka events, see festivals & events exchange rates 19 F farm tours 308 farmers markets Arcata 256 Avila Beach 319 Eureka 252 Ferndale 250 Fort Bragg 230 Gualala 220 Guernville 201 Healdsburg 208 Los Angeles 377 Oakland 123 San Diego 450 San Francisco 80 San Luis Obispo 313 Santa Barbara 335 Santa Cruz 275 Santa Rosa 206 Sebastopol 198 St Helena 175 Ukiah 239 Ferndale 22, Ferry Building 51-2, 21 Festival of Arts 25, 418 festivals & events 24-5, 477 Bay to Breakers 24, 71 Carnaval 71 Cherry Blossom Festival 71 Chinese New Year 71 Comic-Con International 445 Diá de los Muertos 25, 72 Earthfair 445 Festival of Arts 25, 418 Festival of the Swallows 24, 419 Folsom Street Fair Map pages 000 Photo pages Halloween 370 Kinetic Grand Championship 24, 255 Litquake 72 Mendocino Whale Festival 24, 225 Monterey Jazz Festival 283 Old Spanish Fiesta Days 25, 332 Pageant of the Masters 25, 418 Parade of Lights 25, 445 Pride Month 71-2 Reggae on the River 25, 244 Russian River Jazz & Blues Festival 202 San Diego County Fair 445 San Francisco International Film Festival 71 Santa Barbara International Film Festival 332 SF Shakespeare Fest 72 Steinbeck Festival 308 Tournament of Roses 24, 369 film festivals 71, 332, 490 film industry & production 354, 364-5, films 216, 466, fishing Avila Beach 319 Big Bear Lake 391 Bodega Bay 215 Fort Bragg 230 Guerneville 202 Morro Bay 304 San Diego 444 Santa Cruz 271 flora 34, 496, see also redwood trees food 9, 20, , 507, 9, see also individual locations cooking courses 187, 208, 236, festivals 477 food trucks 373, 478 Fort Bragg Fort Ross State Historic Park Foxen Canyon G galleries, see museums & galleries Garberville 244 gay travelers festivals 24-5, 71-2 Los Angeles 379 marriage 485 museum 64 San Diego 454 San Francisco 90 geography geology Getty Center 358 Getty Villa 361 Gilroy 306 GLBT History Museum 64 Glen Ellen gold rush 468, Golden Gate Bridge 11, 51, 11, 154 Golden Gate Park 67 golf La Jolla 442 Morro Bay 304 Pacific Grove 288 Grammy Museum 350 Gray Whale Cove 146 Great Depression 473 Griffith Park Gualala Guerneville H Half Moon Bay 147 Healdsburg health 508 Hearst Castle 10, , 11 Henry Miller Library 294 Highway , Highway , Highway hiking 21, 35-7 Big Bear Lake 391 Bolinas 117 Channel Islands National Park 338 Jackson Demonstration State Forest 241 Los Angeles Lost Coast 245 Marin Headlands 103 Mill Valley 111 Mt Tamalpais State Park 114 Muir Woods National Monument 116 Oakland 124 Point Reyes National Seashore 120 Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park 261 San Diego 444 Sausalito 109 hip-hop 489 historic sites 23 history holidays 509 Hollywood 351-5, 352 homelessness Hopland 233 horseback riding Bodega Bay 215 Guerneville 202 Los Angeles 368 Marin Headlands 103 Point Reyes National Seashore 120

6 529 hostels 505 hot springs & spas 20 Avila Beach 317 Calistoga 178 Clear Lake 235 Esalen Institute 295 Orr Hot Springs 240 Ventana Wilderness 300 Vichy Hot Springs Resort hot-air ballooning Del Mar 459 Napa Valley 173 hotels Humboldt Bay National Wildlife Refuge Humboldt Lagoons State Park 260 Humboldt Redwoods State Park 247-8, 155 Huntington Beach , 28 I immigration 485, 513 insurance car rental 516 health 508 travel 508 internet access 508 internet resources 19 cycling 515 gay & lesbian travelers travel with children 43 travelers with disabilities 511 volunteering Inverness 119 itineraries 26-9, 26, 27, 29 J jazz music 488 Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park 265, Jenner 218 John Muir National Historic Site 139 Jug Handle State Reserve Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park 295 K kayaking & canoeing 34, 282, 317 Anchor Bay 220 Angel Island 111 Bay Area 129 Big Bear Lake 391 Channel Islands National Park 338 Eureka 252 Guerneville 202 Healdsburg 208 Inverness 119 Mendocino 225 Morro Bay 304 Oakland 124 San Diego 444 San Francisco 67-9 San Simeon Santa Barbara 331 Santa Cruz 271 Sausalito 105 King Range National Conservation Area 246 kiteboarding 32-3, 69 kitsch Madonna Inn 306, 22 Magic Carpet Ride statue 461 Trees of Mystery 262 Winchester Mystery House 143 Klamath Knott s Berry Farm 407 L La Jolla 16, 440-3, 440, 16 La Plaza de Cultura y Artes 346 La Purísima Mission State Historic Park 322 Laguna Beach , 416 Lake Earl Wildlife Area Lake Mendocino 240 language 484, 487 legal matters Leggett 242 Legoland California 462 lesbian travelers festivals 24-5, 71-2 Los Angeles 379 marriage 485 museum 64 San Diego 454 San Francisco 90 literature 490-1, see also books festivals 72 Little Saigon 408 Long Beach Los Angeles 8, 45, , 344-5, 348-9, 356-7, 358, 360-1, 364, 366, 388, 8 accommodations 341, activities climate 341 dangers 385 drinking emergency services 386 entertainment festivals 369 food 341, 373-8, 479 highlights Hollywood 351-5, 352 internet access 386 internet resources 342, 386 planning 342 Santa Monica 361, 366 shopping sights tourist information 386 tours 369 travel seasons 341 travel to/from travel within 342, 343, Venice Beach 16, 362, 368, 366, 16 Los Angeles County Museum of Art 357 Los Angeles Zoo & Botanical Gardens 355 Lost Coast 12, 245-7, 12 Lucas, George 490 M MacKerricher State Park 232 Madonna Inn 306, 22 Main Street, USA 397 Malibu 360-1, 153 Manchester 222 Marin County 44, , 102, accommodations 100 climate 100 drinking 114 food 100, 118 highlights 102 travel seasons 100 travel within 121 Marin Headlands marine reserves Fitzgerald Marine Reserve 146 Gerstle Cove Marine Reserve 219 San Diego-La Jolla Underwater Park Ecological Reserve 441 markets Los Angeles 350 Napa 171 Oakland 126 San Jose 142 St Helena 176 Mavericks 147 McWay Falls 295 measures 505 Mendocino 12, 223-8, 224, 12 Mill Valley Miller, Henry 294 Mission Bay 437-9, 438 Mission Beach 439 missions La Purísima Mission 322 Mission Basilica San Diego de Alcalá Mission Delores 61 Mission San Antonio De Padua 309 Mission San Buenaventura 339 INDEX H-M

7 530 INDEX M-O missions continued Mission San Juan Bautista 306 Mission San Juan Capistrano 419 Mission San Luis Obispo de Tolosa 312 Mission San Rafael Arcángel 113 Mission Santa Barbara San Carlos Borroméo de Carmelo Mission mobile phones 19, 510 Monarch butterflies 287, 320 money 19, 506, 509 Montaña de Oro State Park Montara 146 Monterey 14, , 284, 14 accommodations activities drinking 286 entertainment 286 festivals food shopping sights tourist information 287 travel to/from 287 travel within 287 Monterey Bay Aquarium 23, 278-9, 14 Monterey State Historic Park 23, 279 Montgomery Woods State Reserve 240 Morro Bay Moss Landing 278 motels motorcycle travel 514, mountain lions 495 mountain-biking 37-9, see also cycling Big Bear Lake 391 Calistoga 178 Marin Headlands 103 Monterey 282 Mt Tamalpais State Park Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park 261 Mt Diablo State Park 139 Mt Tamalpais State Park 114 Muir Beach 116 Muir, John 139 Muir Woods National Monument multiculturalism murals 492 museums & galleries Annenberg Space for Photography 359 Asian Art Museum Map pages 000 Photo pages Bay Area Discovery Museum 105 Beat Museum 56 Bowers Museum of Cultural Art California Palace of the Legion of Honour 65 Cartoon Art Museum 61 Catharine Clark Gallery 61 Charles M Schulz Museum 206 Children s Discovery Museum, San Jose 142 Chinese Historical Society of America Museum 53 Contemporary Jewish Museum 61 Creativity Explored 61 Exploratorium 58 Folk Art International 52 Getty Center 358 Getty Villa 361 GLBT History Museum 64 Grammy Museum 350 History Park Huntington Library 366 Karpeles Manuscript Library 330 La Plaza de Cultura y Artes 346 Los Angeles County Museum of Art 357 Luggage Store Gallery 53 MACLA 142 Mendocino Art Center 224 MH de Young Memorial Museum 66 Monterey Museum of Art 281 Musée Mecanique 57 Museum of Contemporary Art, La Jolla 441 Museum of Contemporary Art, Los Angeles 346 Museum of Craft and Folk Art 61 Museum of Paleontology 130 Museum of the African Diaspora 61 National Steinbeck Center 307 Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County 351 New Children s Museum, San Diego Norton Simon Museum 366 Oakland Museum of California Orange County Museum of Art 412 Pacific Asia Museum 366 Pacific Pinball Museum 127 Phoebe Hearst Museum of Anthropology 130 Ren Brown Collection Gallery 215 Ronald Reagan Library & Museum 369 Rosicrucian Egyptian Museum 142 San Diego Air & Space Museum 431 San Diego Museum of Art 431 San Diego Natural History Museum 430 San Francisco Art Institute 57 San Francisco Museum of Modern Art 60-1 San Jose Museum of Art 141 Santa Barbara Museum of Art 330 Seymour Marine Discovery Center 269 Sharpsteen Museum Sonoma Valley Museum of Art 186 Tinkum Museum of Art 431 UC Berkeley Art Museum 130 music N Napa , 169 Napa Valley 10, 44, , 164, 10 national parks & reserves 499, 500, see also state parks & reserves Channel Islands National Park 15, 336-8, 15 Elkhorn Slough National Estuarine Research Reserve 278 Humboldt Bay National Wildlife Refuge King Range National Conservation Area 246 Los Padres National Forest Redwood National & State Parks 9, 260-1, 9 National Steinbeck Center 307 Native Americans 469 Newport Beach , 412 newspapers 505 Nicasio 118 North Coast 45, , 214, 243, 258 accommodations 212 climate 212 food 212, 478 highlights 214 travel seasons 212 travel within 213 North County Coast , 458 O Oakland 121-9, 122 accommodations activities drinking entertainment food sights tourist information 128 travel to/from travel within 129 Oakland Museum of California Oakville 174-5

8 531 Occidental Oceanside Ojai 334 Olema 118 opening hours 506 Orange Orange County 12, 45, , 394, 2, 12 accommodations 393 climate 393 food 393 highlights 394 travel seasons 393 travel to/from 395 travel within 395 Orr Hot Springs 240 otters 494 P Pacific Beach Pacific Coast Highway 151-8, 151, 156 Pacific Grove Pacific Pinball Museum 127 Pacifica 146 Pageant of the Masters 25, 418 painting 493 parks & gardens 20 Alamo Square 64-5 Balboa Park , 434 Bartholomew Park Berkeley Rose Garden 131 Conservatory of Flowers 66 Cornerstone Gardens 187 Crissy Field Delores Park 64 Golden Gate Park 67 Griffith Park History Park Japanese Tea Garden 66-7 Los Angeles Zoo & Botanical Gardens 355 Luther Burbank Home & Gardens 205 Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens 229 Monarch Butterfly Grove 320 Monarch Grove Sanctuary 287 People s Park 131 Santa Barbara Botanic Garden 330 Strybing Arboretum & Botanical Gardens 66 Tilden Regional Park 131 UC Botanical Garden 131 Pasadena Paso Robles passports 513 Patrick s Point State Park payphones 510 Pelican Beach State Park 265 Pescadero phonecards 510 photography 493 Pinnacles National Monument 309 Pismo Beach planning, see also individual regions children 40-3 itineraries 26-9 travel seasons 18, 24-5 plants 34, 496, see also redwood trees Point Arena Point Loma 437 Point Piedras Blancas 299 Point Reyes Lighthouse 120, 154 Point Reyes National Seashore 13, , 13 Point Reyes Station poison oak 34 politics 466 pop music 489 population 467 postal services 509 Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park 261 Pride Month 71-2 public holidays 509 punk music 489 R radio 505 rap music 489 Redwood National & State Parks 9, 260-1, 9 redwood trees 201-2, religion 467, 486 Richardson Grove State Park 243 riptides 31 road distance chart 517 road rules rock climbing 309 rock music 489 Ronald Reagan Library & Museum 369 Russian River area , 194 Rutherford RV travel 518 S safety Salinas Salt Point State Park 219 Samoa Peninsula 254 San Diego 9, 45, , 423, 427, 430-1, 9, 158 accommodations 421, activities Balboa Park , 434 climate 421 dangers 454 drinking 422, emergency services 454 entertainment festivals 445 food 421, 422, highlights 423 internet access 454 internet resources 422 La Jolla 16, 440-3, 440, 16 Mission Bay 437-9, 438 planning 422 shopping sights tourist information 455 tours 445 travel to/from 455 travel within San Diego Zoo San Diego Zoo Safari Park 23, 429 San Fernando Valley San Francisco 6, 44, 48-99, 50, 54, 58-9, 62-3, 68, 77, 84-5, 6-7 accommodations 48, 72-7 activities 67-9 climate 48 drinking emergency services 97 entertainment 92-5 festivals 71-2 food 48, 77-88, 477 highlights 50 internet access 97 internet resources 49, 72, 78, 98 shopping 95-7 sights tourist information 97 travel seasons 48 travel to/from 98 travel within 98-9 walking tours 69-71, 70 San Francisco Museum of Modern Art 60-1 San Jose San Juan Capistrano San Luis Obispo 14, 22, , 314, 14 San Miguel 310 San Miguel Island 337 San Pedro 363 San Rafael San Simeon Santa Ana Santa Barbara 10, 15, , 324, 328, 10, 15 accommodations activities INDEX O-S

9 532 INDEX S Santa Barbara continued drinking 335 entertainment 335 festivals 332 food shopping 336 sights tourist information 336 tours 332 travel to/from 336 travel within 336 Santa Barbara Island Santa Cruz 13, , 272, 13, 157 accommodations drinking 275 entertainment 275 festivals 271 food shopping sights tourist information 277 travel to/from 277 travel within 277 Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk 13, 269, 13 Santa Cruz Island 337 Santa Cruz Mountains 277 Santa Monica 361, 366 Santa Rita Hills 323 Santa Rosa Santa Rosa Island 337 Santa Ynez Valley 325 Sausalito 17, 104-9, 17 scenic drives Mile Drive 289 Avenue of the Giants Carlsbad to Del Mar 460 Coleman Valley Road 200 Crystal Cove to Doheny State Beach 420 Highway Mulholland Drive 370 Newton B Drury Senic Parkway 261 Schwarzenegger, Arnold 474 science centers & research facilities Bodega Marine Laboratory & Reserve 215 California Science Center 351 Chabot Space & Science Center 124 Discovery Science Center 407 Lawrence Hall of Science 132 SU Telonicher Marine Laboratory Map pages 000 Photo pages Scotia scuba diving, see diving Sea Ranch Seal Beach 12, 22, 408-9, 12 seals 494 SeaWorld Sebastopol senior travelers 506 Shelter Cove Sinkyone Wilderness State Park 246 Sir Francis Drake Blvd skiiing & snowboarding 391 smoking 509 snorkeling 33-4 Solana Beach 460 Solvang 22 Sonoma , 188 accommodations activities 187 drinking food shopping 191 sights tourist information 191 Sonoma Coast State Beach Sonoma Valley 10, 44, , 184 soul music 488 spas, see hot springs & spas sports St Helena state parks & reserves 19, 499, 500, see also national parks & reserves Andrew Molera State Park 294 Año Nuevo State Reserve Armstrong Redwoods State Reserve Bale Grist Mill State Historic Park 181 Bolsa Chica State Ecological Reserve Bothe-Napa Valley State Park 181 Butano State Park 148 China Camp State Park 113 Clear Lake State Park 234 Crystal Cove State Park 413 Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park El Presidio de Santa Barbara State Historic Park 329 Fort Ross State Historic Park Fremont Peak State Park 307 Humboldt Lagoons State Park 260 Humboldt Redwoods State Park 247-8, 155 Jack London State Historic Park 193 Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park 265, Jug Handle State Reserve Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park 295 Kruse Rhododendron State Reserve 219 La Purísima Mission State Historic Park 322 MacKerricher State Park 232 Mendocino Headlands State Park 225 Montaña de Oro State Park Monterey State Historic Park 23, 279 Montgomery Woods State Reserve 240 Morro Bay State Park 304 Mt Diablo State Park 139 Mt Tamalpais State Park 114 Patrick s Point State Park Pelican Beach State Park 265 Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park 294 Point Lobos State Natural Reserve 290 Point Sur State Historic Park Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park 261 Redwood National & State Parks 9, 260-1, 9 Richardson Grove State Park 243 Robert Louis Stevenson State Park 181 Salt Point State Park 219 San Juan Bautista State Historic Park 307 Sinkyone Wilderness State Park 246 Sonoma State Historic Park Tolowa Dunes State Park Tomales Bay State Park 120 Torrey Pines State Natural Reserve 442 Van Damme State Park 223 Steinbeck, John 307, 308 Stinson Beach Sunset Strip 356 surfing 31-2 Huntington Beach 409 Los Angeles 368 Mavericks 147 Monterey 282 Newport Beach 412 San Diego 443 Santa Cruz Seal Beach 409 swimming 30-1 Big Bear Lake 391 Doheny State Beach 420 Los Angeles 368 Spring Lake 206

10 533 T taxis 519 telephone services 510 Temecula 463 theme parks, see amusement parks Tiburon Tijuana 456 time 510 tipping 510 Tolowa Dunes State Park tourist information 510 Tournament of Roses 24, 369 tours, see also cycling tours, walking tours film & TV studios 354 wine 326, 333 train travel 515, 519 travel seasons 18, 24-5 trees 201-2, 247-8, 496 trekking, see hiking Trinidad TV 505 TV industry & production 354, 363, U Ukiah Universal Studios Hollywood University of California, Berkeley 130 V vacations 509 Vallejo Valley Ford 201 Van Damme State Park 223 vegan travelers 476 vegetarian travelers 476 Venice Beach 16, 362, 368, 366, 16 Ventana Wilderness 300 Ventura Vichy Hot Springs Resort video systems 505 visas 19, 511 volunteering W walking, see hiking walking tours Laguna Beach 417 Los Angeles 369 San Diego 445 San Francisco 69-71, 70 Santa Barbara 332 Walt Disney Concert Hall 346 water weather 18, see also individual regions websites, see internet resources weights 505 Westport 232 whales 494 whale-watching 16, 35, 16 Bodega Bay 215 Channel Islands National Park 338 Fort Bragg 230 Mendocino 225 Monterey 282 North Coast 221 Point Reyes National Seashore 120 San Diego San Francisco 69 Santa Barbara 331 Santa Cruz 271 wildlife reserves Arcata Marsh & Wildlife Sanctuary 255 California Academy of Sciences 66 Humboldt Bay National Wildlife Refuge Lake Earl Wildlife Area Pescadero Marsh Reserve 148 Safari West 182 Torrey Pines State Natural Reserve 442 Tule Elk Reserve 120 wildlife, see animals wildlife-watching Año Nuevo State Reserve Point Lobos State Natural Reserve 290 Torrey Pines State Natural Reserve 442 Willits windsurfing 32-3, 69 wine 21, 192, , 155 tours 326, 333 Wine Country, Napa & Sonoma , 160, 10 accommodations 159 climate 159 food 159, 205 highlights 160 tours travel seasons 159 travel to/from 161 travel within wine regions Anderson Valley 236 Clear Lake 234 Edna Valley 313 Hopland 233 Napa Valley Paso Robles 310 Russian River area Santa Barbara , 324, 15 Sonoma Valley Ukiah 239 WWII 468, 473 Y Yountville Z zoos 41 Eureka 251 Los Angeles 355 San Diego 23, INDEX T-Z

11 534 These symbols will help you find the listings you want: 1 Sights T Tours 6 Drinking r Beaches z Festivals & Events 3 Entertainment 2 Activities 4 Sleeping 7 Shopping C Courses 5 Eating 8 Information/ Transport These symbols give you the vital information for each listing: % Telephone Numbers W Wi-Fi Access g Bus h Opening Hours s Swimming Pool f Ferry p Parking v Vegetarian Selection m Metro n Nonsmoking E English-Language Menu b Subway a Air-Conditioning c Family-Friendly t London Tube i Internet Access # Pet-Friendly j Tram d Train Reviews are organised by author preference. Look out for these icons: Our author s o recommendation No payment F required A green or S sustainable option Our authors have nominated these places as demonstrating a strong commitment to sustainability for example by supporting local communities and producers, operating in an environmentally friendly way, or supporting conservation projects. Map Legend Sights Beach Buddhist Castle Christian Hindu Islamic Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery Ruin Winery/Vineyard Zoo Other Sight Activities, Courses & Tours Diving/Snorkelling Canoeing/Kayaking Skiing Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Activity/ Course/Tour Sleeping Sleeping Camping Eating Eating Drinking Drinking Cafe Entertainment Entertainment Shopping Shopping Information Post Office Tourist Information Transport Airport Border Crossing Bus Cable Car/ Funicular Cycling Ferry Metro Monorail Parking S-Bahn Taxi Train/Railway Tram Tube Station U-Bahn Other Transport Routes Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed Road Plaza/Mall Steps Tunnel Pedestrian Overpass Walking Tour Walking Tour Detour Path Boundaries International State/Province Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall Population Capital (National) Capital (State/Province) City/Large Town Town/Village Geographic Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall Hydrography River/Creek Intermittent River Swamp/Mangrove Reef Canal Water Dry/Salt/ Intermittent Lake Glacier Areas Beach/Desert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Park/Forest Sportsground Sight (Building) Top Sight (Building)

12 Bridget Gleeson Disneyland & Orange County, San Diego Though she travels all over Latin America to write about glaciers, penguins and giant turtles, the sunshine and sailboats of southern California always draw Bridget back to the USA. She covers food, wine, hotels and adventure travel for Afar, Budget Travel, Jetsetter, Mr & Mrs Smith and Delta Sky. Read more about Bridget at: Beth Kohn lonelyplanet.com/members/bridgetgleeson Marin County & the Bay Area A lucky long-time resident of San Francisco, Beth lives to be playing outside or splashing in big puddles of water. For this guide, she hiked and biked Bay Area byways, lugged a bear canister along the John Muir Trail and selflessly soaked in hot springs for research purposes, of course. An author of Lonely Planet s Yosemite, Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks and Mexico guides, you can see more of her work at John A Vlahides Napa & Sonoma Wine Country John A Vlahides co-hosts the TV series Lonely Planet: Roads Less Travelled, screening on National Geographic Channels International. John studied cooking in Paris, with the same chefs who trained Julia Child, and is a former luxury-hotel concierge and member of Les Clefs d Or, the international union of the world s elite concierges. He lives in San Francisco, where he sings tenor with the San Francisco Symphony, and spends free time skiing the Sierra Nevada. For more, see johnvlahides.com and twitter.com/johnvlahides. Read more about John at: lonelyplanet.com/members/johnvlahides

13 OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end broke but inspired they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony s belief that a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse. OUR WRITERS Sara Benson Coordinating Author, Central Coast After graduating from college in Chicago, Sara jumped on a plane to California with just one suitcase and $100 in her pocket. She has bounced around the Golden State ever since, including just about everywhere between San Francisco and LA. She paddled, hiked, cycled and drove all along the Central Coast while researching this guide. The author of 50 travel and nonfiction books, Sara has contributed to Lonely Planet s USA, California and Hawaii guides. Follow more of her adventures online at com and and follow her on Twitter (@indie_traveler). Read more about Sara at: lonelyplanet.com/members/sara_benson Andrew Bender Los Angeles Andy is a true Angeleno, not because he was born in Los Angeles but because he s made it his own. Two decades ago, this native New Englander packed up the car and drove cross-country to work in film production, and eventually realized the joy was in the journey (and writing about it). His work has since appeared in the Los Angeles Times, Forbes, more than two dozen LP titles and on his blog, Current obsessions: discovering LA s next great ethnic enclave, and winter sunsets over the bike path in Santa Monica. Alison Bing San Francisco Author, arts commentator and adventurous eater Alison was adopted by California 16 years ago. By now she has done everything you re supposed to do here and a few things you re definitely not, including talking up LA bands in San Francisco bars and falling in love on the 7 Haight bus. Alison holds a graduate degree in international diplomacy, which she regularly undermines with opinionated commentary in magazines, newspapers, on public radio and in more than 20 books. Nate Cavalieri North Coast & Redwoods A native of central Michigan, Nate lives in Northern California and has crisscrossed the region s back roads by bicycle, bus and rental car on a quest for the biggest trees, the best camping and the hoppiest pints of beer. In addition to authoring guides on California and Latin America for Lonely Planet, he writes about music and professional cycling. He s the Jazz Editor at Rhapsody Music Service. Photos from his travels in Northern California and other writing can be found at OVER PAGE MORE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN th edition April 2012 ISBN Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs as indicated Printed in China Read more about Nate at: lonelyplanet.com/members/natecavalieri Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.