Contents. On the Road 4. USA Itineraries 7. Destination USA 22. Getting Started 25. Itineraries 33. USA Road Trips 44. History 51.

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1 Contents On the Road 4 USA Itineraries 7 Destination USA 22 Getting Started 25 Itineraries 33 USA Road Trips 44 History 51 The Culture 65 Arts 75 Food & Drink 93 USA s National Parks 105 Environment 121 USA Outdoors 131 New York, New Jersey & Pennsylvania 143 History 144 Land & Climate 144 Parks & Wildlife 144 Information 144 Getting There & Around 145 NEW YORK CITY 145 History 145 Orientation 148 Information 149 Sights Activities 175 New York for Children 176 Tours 176 Festivals & Events 176 Sleeping 177 Eating 180 Drinking 185 Entertainment 186 Shopping 190 Getting There & Away 190 Getting Around 191 NEW YORK STATE 192 Long Island 193 Hudson Valley 196 Catskills 197 Finger Lakes Region 198 Albany 199 Around Albany 200 The Adirondacks 201 Thousand Islands Region 202 Western New York 203 NEW JERSEY 206 Northern New Jersey 206 Central New Jersey 208 Jersey Shore 208 South Jersey 210 PENNSYLVANIA 212 Philadelphia 213 Around Philadelphia 226 Pennsylvania Dutch Country 228 South Central Pennsylvania 229 Northeastern Pennsylvania 229 Pittsburgh 230 Around Pittsburgh 236 Northwestern Pennsylvania 237 New England 238 History 239 Local Culture 239 Land & Climate 239 Parks 239 Information 242 Getting There & Around 242 MASSACHUSETTS 243 Boston 243 Around Boston 259 Cape Cod 260 Nantucket 267 Martha s Vineyard 268 Central Massachusetts 271 The Berkshires 273

2 18 CONTENTS RHODE ISLAND 274 Providence 275 Newport 276 Rhode Island Beaches 279 CONNECTICUT 279 Connecticut Coast 281 Lower Connecticut River Valley 282 Hartford 283 Litchfield Hills 284 VERMONT 285 Southern Vermont 285 Central Vermont 289 Northern Vermont 290 Burlington 292 NEW HAMPSHIRE 294 Portsmouth 295 Manchester 296 Concord 296 Lake Winnipesaukee 296 White Mountains 297 Hanover 301 MAINE 301 Southern Maine Coast 302 Portland 305 Central Maine Coast 307 Acadia National Park 310 Bar Harbor 311 Downeast Maine 312 Interior Maine 312 Washington, DC & the Capital Region 315 History 316 Local Culture 316 Land & Climate 317 Parks & Wildlife 317 Information 317 Getting There & Around 317 WASHINGTON, DC 318 History 319 Orientation 320 Information 320 Sights 321 Activities 330 Washington, DC, for Children 330 Tours 331 Festivals & Events 331 Sleeping 331 Eating 332 Drinking & Entertainment 335 Getting There & Away 337 Getting Around 338 MARYLAND 338 Baltimore 339 Annapolis 348 Eastern Shore 350 Ocean City 351 Western Maryland 353 DELAWARE 354 Delaware Beaches 355 Northern & Central Delaware 357 VIRGINIA 358 Northern Virginia 359 Fredericksburg 361 Richmond 362 Petersburg 367 Historic Triangle 367 Hampton Roads 370 Virginia Beach 372 The Piedmont 373 Shenandoah Valley 375 Blue Ridge Highlands & Southwest Virginia 378 WEST VIRGINIA 380 Eastern Panhandle 381 Monongahela National Forest 382 Morgantown 382 Southern West Virginia 383 The South 385 History 388 Local Culture 388 Land & Climate 388 Parks & Wildlife 389 Information 389 Getting There & Around 389 NORTH CAROLINA 389 North Carolina Coast 390 The Triangle 395 Charlotte 398 North Carolina Mountains 400 SOUTH CAROLINA 403 Charleston 404 Around Charleston 411 Sea Islands 412 North Coast 413 Columbia 414 TENNESSEE 415 Memphis 416 Shiloh National Military Park 423 Nashville 423 Eastern Tennessee 431 KENTUCKY 435 Louisville 435 Bluegrass Country 437 Central Kentucky 439 GEORGIA 441 Atlanta 442 North Georgia 451 Central Georgia 452 Savannah 453 Brunswick & the Golden Isles 457 ALABAMA 459 Birmingham 460 Around Birmingham 461 Montgomery 462 Selma 463 Mobile 463 Dauphin Island 463 MISSISSIPPI 464 Tupelo 464 Oxford 464 Mississippi Delta 465 Jackson 468 Natchez 470 Gulf Coast 470 LOUISIANA 471 New Orleans 472 Around New Orleans 486 Cajun Country 489 Cane River Country 492 Northern Louisiana 493 ARKANSAS 493 Little Rock 494 Hot Springs 495 Around Hot Springs 496 Arkansas River Valley 497 Ozark Mountains 497 Arkansas Delta 499 Florida 500 History 501 Local Culture 501 Land & Climate 501 Parks & Wildlife 504 Information 504 Getting There & Around 504 SOUTH FLORIDA 505 Miami 505 Fort Lauderdale 517 Palm Beach & Around 518 The Everglades 519 Around the Everglades 522 Florida Keys 523 ATLANTIC COAST 532 Space Coast 532 Daytona Beach 534 St Augustine 536 Jacksonville 537 Amelia Island 538 WEST COAST 539 Tampa 539

3 CONTENTS 19 St Petersburg 541 Sarasota 543 Fort Myers 544 Fort Myers Beach 544 Sanibel & Captiva Islands 544 CENTRAL FLORIDA 545 Orlando 545 Walt Disney World 548 Around Central Florida 550 FLORIDA PANHANDLE 550 Tallahassee 551 Panama City Beach 552 Pensacola 553 Great Lakes 555 History 557 Local Culture 558 Land & Climate 558 Parks & Wildlife 559 Information 559 Getting There & Around 559 ILLINOIS 559 Chicago 559 Around Chicago 587 Northern Illinois 587 Central Illinois 588 Southern Illinois 589 INDIANA 591 Indianapolis 591 Around Indianapolis 594 Southern Indiana 595 Northern Indiana 596 OHIO 597 Cleveland 598 Around Cleveland 602 Erie Lakeshore & Islands 602 Amish Country 603 Columbus 604 Southeastern Ohio 605 Dayton & Yellow Springs 606 Cincinnati 606 MICHIGAN 611 Detroit 611 Around Detroit 617 Central Michigan 619 Lake Michigan Shore 619 Straits of Mackinac 622 Upper Peninsula 624 WISCONSIN 626 Milwaukee 627 Madison 630 Southern Wisconsin 632 Along the Mississippi River 633 Eastern Wisconsin 633 Northern Wisconsin 635 MINNESOTA 636 Minneapolis 636 St Paul 643 Around Minneapolis St Paul 645 Southern Minnesota 645 Northern Minnesota 646 Great Plains 651 History 654 Local Culture 654 Land & Climate 654 Parks & Wildlife 654 Getting There & Around 654 MISSOURI 655 St Louis 656 Around St Louis 663 The Ozarks 664 Kansas City 665 Around Kansas City 668 IOWA 669 Des Moines 670 Around Des Moines 671 Along I Along US Along US NORTH DAKOTA 673 Along I Along US SOUTH DAKOTA 676 Sioux Falls 677 Around Sioux Falls 677 Along I Black Hills 680 NEBRASKA 685 Omaha 686 Lincoln 687 Along I Along US KANSAS 689 Wichita 690 Along I Along US Along US OKLAHOMA 695 Oklahoma City 695 Around Oklahoma City 699 Western Oklahoma 700 Tulsa 700 Green Country 702 Texas 704 History 705 Local Culture 705 Land & Climate 708 Parks & Wildlife 708 Information 708 Getting There & Around 709 SOUTH-CENTRAL TEXAS 709 Austin 709 Around Austin 717 Hill Country 717 San Antonio 720 Houston 725 Around Houston 731 SOUTHERN GULF COAST 732 Aransas National Wildlife Refuge 733 Corpus Christi & Around 733 South Padre Island 734 The Valley 734 DALLAS FORT WORTH 734 Dallas 734 Around Dallas 741 Fort Worth 741 PANHANDLE PLAINS 744 Amarillo 744 WEST TEXAS 745 Big Bend 746 El Paso 751 Hueco Tanks State Historic Site 752 Guadalupe Mountains National Park 753 Rocky Mountains 754 History 755 Local Culture 755 Land & Climate 758 Parks & Wildlife 758 Getting There & Around 758 COLORADO 760 Denver 760 Front Range 766 Central Mountain Region 778 Southern Colorado 784 WYOMING 790 Cheyenne 791 Laramie 792 Cody 792 Lander 793 Yellowstone National Park 793 Grand Teton National Park 798 Jackson 799 MONTANA 800 Bozeman 801 Gallatin & Paradise Valleys 803 Absaroka Beartooth Wilderness 803 Billings 804 Helena 804

4 20 CONTENTS Missoula 805 Flathead Lake 806 Bob Marshall Wilderness Complex 806 Whitefish 806 Glacier National Park 808 IDAHO 810 Boise 810 Ketchum & Sun Valley 812 Hwy 75: Ketchum to Stanley 813 Stanley 813 Hwy 21: Stanley to Boise 814 Hells Canyon National Recreation Area 815 Idaho Panhandle 816 Southwest 817 History 820 Local Culture 820 Land & Climate 820 Parks 821 Information 821 Getting There & Around 821 NEVADA 821 Las Vegas 822 Around Las Vegas 833 Western Nevada 834 Nevada Great Basin 837 ARIZONA 838 Phoenix 839 Central Arizona 847 Grand Canyon National Park 851 Around the Grand Canyon 856 Northeastern Arizona 856 Western Arizona 859 Tuscon 860 Around Tuscon 864 Southeastern Corner 865 UTAH 866 Salt Lake City 867 Around Salt Lake City 873 Wasatch Mountains & North 874 Northeastern Utah 876 Southeastern Utah 877 South-Central & Southwestern Utah 881 NEW MEXICO 885 Albuquerque 886 Along I Santa Fe 892 Around Santa Fe 898 Taos 899 Northeastern New Mexico 902 Southeastern New Mexico 905 California 909 History 912 Local Culture 913 Land & Climate 913 Parks & Wildlife 913 Information 914 Getting There & Around 914 LOS ANGELES 914 Orientation 915 Information 915 Sights 918 Activities 928 Los Angeles for Children 929 Tours 929 Festivals & Events 929 Sleeping 929 Eating 931 Drinking 933 Entertainment 934 Shopping 935 Getting There & Away 936 Getting Around 936 AROUND LOS ANGELES 937 Catalina Island 937 Six Flags Magic Mountain 937 SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA COAST 938 Orange County 938 San Diego 939 Around San Diego 948 CALIFORNIA DESERTS 949 Palm Springs 949 Joshua Tree National Park 951 Anza-Borrego Desert State Park 952 Mojave National Preserve 953 Death Valley National Park 954 CENTRAL COAST 956 Santa Barbara 956 Santa Barbara to San Luis Obispo 958 San Luis Obispo 959 Morro Bay to Hearst Castle 959 Big Sur 960 Carmel 961 Monterey 962 Santa Cruz 964 Santa Cruz to San Francisco 966 SAN FRANCISCO & THE BAY AREA 966 San Francisco 966 Marin County 988 Berkeley 989 NORTHERN CALIFORNIA 990 Wine Country 991 North Coast 995 Sacramento 999 Gold Country 1000 Northern Mountains 1002 SIERRA NEVADA 1004 Lake Tahoe 1004 Yosemite National Park 1006 Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks 1010 Eastern Sierra 1012 Pacific Northwest 1014 History 1015 Local Culture 1015 Land & Climate 1018 Parks & Wildlife 1019 Information 1019 Getting There & Around 1019 WASHINGTON 1020 Seattle 1021 Around Seattle 1033 Olympic Peninsula 1034 Northwest Washington 1037 San Juan Islands 1038 North Cascades 1040 Northeastern Washington 1041 South Cascades 1043 Central & Southeastern Washington 1044 OREGON 1045 Portland 1046 Around Portland 1058 Willamette Valley 1058 Columbia River Gorge 1060 Oregon Cascades 1061 Southern Oregon 1064 Eastern Oregon 1066 Oregon Coast 1068 Alaska 1071 History 1074 Local Culture 1074 Land & Climate 1075 Parks & Wildlife 1076 Information 1076 Activities 1076 Getting There & Around 1076 SOUTHEAST ALASKA 1078 Ketchikan 1078 Around Ketchikan 1079 Wrangell 1079 Petersburg 1080 Sitka 1080 Juneau 1081

5 CONTENTS 21 Admiralty Island National Monument 1083 Glacier Bay National Park & Preserve 1083 Haines 1084 Around Haines 1085 Skagway 1085 SOUTHCENTRAL ALASKA 1086 Anchorage 1086 Around Anchorage 1092 Kenai Peninsula 1093 Prince William Sound 1095 Kodiak Island 1098 DENALI & THE INTERIOR 1098 Denali National Park 1099 George Parks Hwy 1100 Fairbanks 1101 THE BUSH 1103 Hawaii 1104 History 1105 Local Culture 1105 Land & Climate 1108 Parks 1108 Information 1109 Getting There & Around 1109 OʻAHU 1109 Honolulu & Waikiki 1109 Pearl Harbor 1117 Southeast Oʻahu 1117 Windward Coast 1117 North Shore 1118 Waiʻanae Coast 1118 HAWAIʻI THE BIG ISLAND 1118 Kailua-Kona 1118 South Kona Coast 1119 North Kona & Kohala Coasts 1120 Waimea 1120 Mauna Kea 1120 Hamakua Coast 1121 Hilo 1121 Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park 1122 MAUI 1123 Lahaina & Kaʻanapali 1123 Maʻalaea Bay 1124 Kihei 1124 Wailea & Makena 1125 Kahului & Wailuku 1125 Paʻia 1126 Hana & Around 1126 Haleakalā National Park 1127 KAUAʻI 1127 Lihuʻe 1127 Wailua & Around 1127 Na Pali Coast & North Shore 1128 South Shore 1128 West Side 1129 MOLOKAʻI 1129 LANAʻI 1129 OTHER ISLANDS 1130 Kahoʻolawe 1130 Niʻihau 1130 Papahanaumokuakea Marine National Monument 1130 Directory 1131 Transportation 1152 Health 1168 Glossary 1172 The Authors 1176 Behind the Scenes 1182 Index 1187 Greendex 1212 Map Legend 1216 Regional Map Contents PACIFIC NORTHWEST pp CA CALIFORNIA pp AK ALASKA pp OR WA NV ID SOUTHWEST pp AZ ROCKY MOUNTAINS pp756-7 UT HI HAWAII pp MT WY CO NM ND SD NE GREAT PLAINS pp652-3 TX KS OK TEXAS pp706-7 MN IA MO AR LA WI NEW NEW YORK, VT ENGLAND NEW JERSEY & NH pp240-1 PENNSYLVANIA MA pp146-7 NY CT RI MI GREAT LAKES pp556-7 OH IL IN MS KY TN THE SOUTH pp386-7 AL GA WV VA PA NJ MD DE NC SC FLORIDA pp502-3 FL ME WASHINGTON, DC & THE CAPITAL REGION pp318-19