Making Tracks in Patagonia

Transcription

1 Making Tracks in Patagonia November 10 November 23, 2018 Leader: Denise Snow Laguna Torre, Los Glaciares National Park Dear Fellow CMC Member: Thank you for your interest in the Adventure Travel outing Making Tracks in Patagonia. Please read the following trip description and itinerary carefully before you consider applying for this trip. I have also included a suggested pack list and additional information for your consideration. To apply for a place on the outing, please complete the Trip Application, the Release of all Claims, Waiver of Liability, Assumption of all Risks, and Indemnity Agreement and the Payment and Cancelation and return them to the trip leader: Denise Snow 1774 County Road 51 Divide, CO denisedansnow@q.com The group will have a maximum of 10 participants and a minimum of 8. All nights will be spent at refugios (mountain huts), hosterias (hotels), or pensions (B&Bs), and all with hot showers. All accommodations will be a shared double room (in all hotels/b&bs and otherwise where available) or dormitory.

2 Once you apply, you will be notified if you are accepted for the outing. Once accepted, submit a $975 deposit, $500 which is non refundable, to the CMC to reserve a place (see cancellation policy). Please do not send money before it is requested. The remaining balance is payable by September 14, The current in-country estimated trip costs are $4,915 for members and $5,407 for non members. The price includes: All lodging for 13 nights: - 2 nights hotel in Punta Arenas, Chile - 5 nights in refugios in Torres del Paine National Park (including breakfast, box lunch and dinner) - 3 nights hotel in El Chaltén, Argentina - 2 nights hotel in El Calafate, Argentina All breakfasts 9 boxed lunches 5 dinners Airport transfers to/from Punta Arenas/El Calafate Guided tour of Magdalena and Marta Islands Private shuttle from Punta Arenas to Torres del Paine National Park Entrance fee to Torres del Paine National Park and Los Glaciares National Park Guided trek on Grey Glacier including equipment (crampons, ice axe, harness, helmet and rope), as well as a short, guided course on glacier travel Private shuttle to all trailheads Catamaran trip across Lake Pehoe Private transfer from Torres del Paine National Park to El Chaltén in Argentina Private shuttle from El Chaltén to El Calafate Full day guided excursion to the Perito Merano glacier, including a boat ride to other glaciers and a guided walk through a Patagonian forest Local guided hikes in Los Glaciares National Park Airfare to Punta Arenas (Chile) and returning from El Calafate (Argentina) is not included (estimated about $1700 from Denver for Fall 2017). Also, expect to spend a few hundred dollars for trip insurance, dinner for seven nights, three lunches and all snacks, bar tabs and any souvenirs. Pre-requisites for the trip are very good physical conditioning, the ability to hike 84+ miles in 8 days with 17,000+ feet of vertical gain and an ongoing, regular, conditioning program. A CMC-Denver Group hiker rating is not needed for this trip. We will carry day packs (a suggested list of items is provided) which include all clothing typically needed for changing alpine weather conditions. Five nights will be spent in refugios where, in addition to our normal day pack items, we will need to carry personal toiletries and a change of clothes. The huts provide bedding, meals (breakfast, boxed lunch and dinner), alcoholic drinks, a selection of additional snacks and you can rent towels for the showers. Because we will be hiking in alpine areas in Patagonia, the weather can be most unpredictable (expect wind and rain), necessitating well thought out element and clothing choices.

3 Before applying, you may want to check with your significant other, employer, etc. to make sure you have the available time to do a 15-day trip overseas. There is no guarantee of someone being on the wait list to take your place if you have to cancel. You will need a valid passport, but no visa is required to enter Chile or Argentina. Attendance of the pre-trip planning meeting is mandatory, as there will be much to discuss. The meeting will be conducted via teleconference, with presentation slides provided via YouTube, and you will receive ample notice of the date and time. Topics will include suggested equipment, packing, training, cultural notes, and security precautions. The Colorado Mountain Club does not offer insurance. However, participants may want to consider purchasing insurance due to the risk associated with adventure travel. The world can be a dangerous place; therefore, the Adventure Travel trips do have inherent risks and dangers. Participants are responsible for making their own decisions on what type of travel coverage they wish to obtain. Participants understand that CMC s team of experienced, all-volunteer trip leaders provide a personal knowledge of the areas in which you will travel and are not employees of the CMC. Please let me know what questions you may have I am at your disposal! Sincerely, Denise Snow denisedansnow@q.com

4 The Torres del Paine (The Blue Towers) Making Tracks in Patagonia November 10 23, 2018 Trip Description Patagonia is a region covering the southernmost part of South America, made up of the southern parts of Chile and Argentina. Running along Chiles s eastern border (and effectively defining it), are the Andes mountain range, which stretches about 4300 miles down the western side of the South American continent and is the world s longest mountain range and the world s highest outside of Asia. Further south, the Andes are generally lower in elevation with the highest peak in Chilean Patagonia (Monte San Valentin) reaching 13,391 feet. We will be visiting two national parks on this trip, Torres del Paine National Park in Chile and Los Glaciares National Park in Argentina. Nordenskjold Lake, Torres del Paine National Park

5 Torres del Paine National Park sits on the southern tip of South America on the edge of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, the largest expanse of ice in the southern hemisphere outside Antarctica. Just 25 kilometers, as the crow flies, from the northern edge of Torres del Paine National Park is Los Glaciares National Park. There is a feeling of immensity in both of these parks, filled with spectacular granite spires, crystal clear turquoise blue lakes, and fractured blue ice. Our trip will be in mid-november, which is late spring in Patagonia. This timeframe will be a lot less crowded than the high summer season in January and February with less wind and rain chances. There will be cooler temperatures than in summer but still a wonderful time to be there. However, this is Patagonia, so be prepared for wind and rain. Our trip starts in Punta Arenas, the southern-most city on earth. We will have a day in Punta Arenas to recover from our long flight and do a little sightseeing of the town. The next day we take a guided boat excursion to the islands of Magdalena and Marta to view sea lions and one of the major colonies of Magellanic penguins, about 120,000 birds. From there we make our way to Torres del Paine National Park for a five-day trek on the famous W route, named for the shape the route makes. Trekking in Torres del Paine National Park a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve since 1978 is a hugely rewarding experience. We will hike along sapphire-colored lakes highlighted with gleaming white icebergs, trek to the base of the impressive Torres del Paine, and see wildlife ranging from Andean condors to guanacos. We will stay in refugios (mountain huts) each night where you can buy drinks, have hot meals and hot showers. We will also have three days of hiking in Los Glaciares National Park, part of the third-largest ice cap in the world. Here we will take in the majesty of the Cerro Torre and Cerro Fitz Roy, while watching glaciers calve into high alpine lakes. For this part of the trip we will stay in a small B&B each night in El Chaltén and take guided day hikes, using local guides that are required by the national park for group sizes greater than 6. We will also have the opportunity on this trip to take a guided roped glacier trek, with crampons and ice axes, on the Grey Glacier in Torres del Paine National Park, observing up close and personal crevasses, rivers, lagoons and tunnels in different tones of blue, and view by boat the Perito Moreno glacier in Argentina, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the world s few non-retreating glaciers. Las Torres del Paine

6 Making Tracks in Patagonia November 10 23, 2018 Itinerary Note: All times given are estimated hiking times and do not include breaks. VG means vertical gain. Sat, November 10 - Fly to Punta Arenas Sun, November 11 - Arrive in Punta Arenas. You are now in the most southern city on Earth. Take a private shuttle to the Casa Hostal Innata. Spend the afternoon resting or visiting Punta Arenas. Magellanic Penguins on Magdalena Island and Sea Lions on Marta Island Mon, November 12 Visit Islas Magdalena and Marta. Take a shuttle from our hotel to the start of our boat tour to Magdalena and Marta island. Both islands form an interesting ecosystem; Marta Island lodges more than 1000 sea lions, cormorants, skuas, Austral seagulls, Antartic pigeons and sea elephants, whereas Magdalena Island allows you to interact with one of the major colonies of Magellanic penguins, about 120,000 birds. During the approach through the Straits of Magellan it is possible to sight Austral dolphins and Overas Toninas (a kind of dolphins). To protect wild life, it is only allowed to circumnavigate Marta Island to admire and photograph the wildlife colony and the diversity of marine birds that live there. However, on Magdalena Island it is possible to disembark for about one hour, to walk and to interact with the penguin colony. Overnight in the Casa Hostal Innata. Tue, November 13 Transfer to Torres del Paine National Park. We will take a private transfer from our hotel in Punta Arenas to Torres del Paine National Park and Refugio Torre Central (transferring extra luggage to our hotel in Puerto Natales at the end of the trek); the trip is about 5 5 ½ hours. Overnight in Refugio Torre Central (Breakfast(B), Box Lunch(BL),Dinner(D)).

7 Refugio Torre Central Wed, November 14 - Hike to Mirador Las Torres and return to the Refugio Torre Central (19.4 km (12 mi), 3291 feet VG, about 7-8 hours). Today we will hike the Valle Ascencio, with Las Torres views of the Ascensio river, to the Mirador (viewpoint) Las Torres a viewpoint of the spectacular towers. After about an hour and 45 minutes we will come to Refugio El Chileno where we can have a drink and a snack. We then continue through a forest of beautiful Beech trees and reach Campamento Torres after about another hour and 15 minutes. Shortly we will see a glacier moraine and after another

8 45 minutes climb ae will arrive at the Mirador Las Torres and the wonderful view of the towers. Return to the Refugio Torre Central where we will spend the night (B,BL,D). Beds in Refugio Torre Central Thur, November 15- Hike to Refugio Los Cuernos (11 km (6.8 mi), 1377 feet VG, about 4 hours). We begin our trek today along the beautiful Lago Nordenskjold (named after a Swedish geologist who contributed significantly to the study of Glaciology). Additionally, we will have great views of the hanging glaciers above on Mt. Almirante Nieto. Overnight in Refugio Los Cuernos in our own private 2 person cabins (B,BL,D). Refugio Los Cuernos

9 Cabins at Refugio Los Cuernos Fri, November 16 - Hike to Valle Francés and then on to Refugio Pane Grande (23.5 km (14.6 mi), about 2000 feet VG, about 10 hours). In about two hours and 15 minutes we will arrive at the Campamento Italiano. From here we begin our trek to the French Valley, one of the most Cuernos del Paine (The Horns), Torres del Paine National Park picturesque valleys in Torres Del Paine National Park. It is unique because of the hanging glaciers and amazing granite walls and spires. People often witness the glaciers calving (dropping giant ice bergs) and hear this natural symphony in the granite amphitheater. We continue to get closer to

10 the granite spires and glacial lake and on the return journey we can see the turquoise color of glacial lake Pehoe. Pehoe means Hidden Lake in the Tehuelche Indian Language. We continue trekking until we reach Lodge Paine Grande, where we have incredible views of the Paine Grande and Los Cuernos. Overnight in Refugio Paine Grande (B,BL). View of the Cuernos at Refugio Paine Grande Sat, November 17 Guided hike on Grey Glacier. In the morning, we will hike from the Refugio Paine Grande to Refugio Grey (11km (6.9 miles), 1,850 ft ascent). That afternoon we will take a guided ice trek on Grey Glacier. We will take a zodiac boat for 15 minutes across the lake until we reach the west side of Grey Glacier. Upon arrival at Grey Glacier, we will disembark on the land in between the ice (nunatak) and walk on it until we reach the Ice. Our guides will brief the group on safety aspects and teach the group the proper techniques and correct use of equipment. After the brief, we will begin our exploration of Grey Glacier which lasts approximately 3 hours. We will be able to observe crevasses, rivers, lagoons and tunnels in different tones of blue. Overnight in Refugio Grey (B,BL,D). Ice hiking on Grey Glacier

11 Refugio Grey Sun, November 18 Transfer to El Chaltén. Hike from Refugio Grey to Refugio Paine Grande (6.9 miles). Take a catamaran across Lago Pehoe and then a private transport to El Chaltén (about 9 hours). Overnight at Hostería El Paraíso in El Chaltén (B). Mon, November 19 Take a guided trek to Laguna de los Tres and return to El Chaltén. On arriving at the highest point on the path, there are majestic views of Fitz Roy, the Glacier de los Tres and its lagoon (22 km (13.6 mi), 3150 ft ascent, about 8-9 hours). Overnight at Hostería El Paraíso in El Chaltén (B). Laguna de los Tres Tue, November 20 Guided trek of Loma del Pliegue Tumbado, with spectacular views of Fitzroy, and back to El Chaltén (17.7 km (11 mil), 1100 m ascent (3630 ft), about 7 hours). Overnight at Hostería El Paraíso in El Chaltén (B).

12 Cerro Torre and Cerro Fitzroy from the Loma del Pliegue Tumbado Trek Wed, November 21 Guided trek to Laguna Torre and back to El Chaltén. At Laguna Torre it is usual to see huge icebergs, ice which has fallen off the Torre Glacier face (20 km (12.4 mi), 1950 ft ascent, about 6--7 hours). Private transfer to El Calafate. Overnight at Cauquenes de Nimez in El Calafate (B). The Torre Glacier on the Laguna Torre Trek Thur, November 22 Excursion to Perito Moreno Glacier. Full day guided excursion to Perito Moreno Glacier, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the world s few remaining non-retreating glaciers. Includes a boat ride to see other glaciers too, as well as black sand beaches, a short, guided walk in a

13 Patagonian forest and self-guided-time at the balconies in front of the Perito Moreno Glacier). Overnight at Cauquenes de Nimez in El Calafate (B). The Perito Mereno glacier Fri, November 23 Transfer to the airport at El Calafate for our flight home. Suggested reading for Making Tracks in Patagonia: Trekking Torres del Paine, Chile s Premier National Park and Argentina s Los Glaciers National Park. Rudolph Abraham. Cicerone Press. Second edition Suggested Maps for Making Tracks in Patagonia: Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy, 1:50,000. Pixmap/Aoneker GIS Solutions. Topographic Map of the Torres del Paine National Park (Parque Nacional Torres del Paine), 1:80,000. Zagier & Urruty. Grey Glacier

14 Making Tracks in Patagonia November 10 23, 2018 Pack List The following is a list of recommended items to carry in your luggage and/or pack (including the 5 nights in the refugios in Torres del Paine): Pack cover Rain jacket/pants Buff/neck gaiter Warm gloves Warm hat Several warm layers Gore-Tex over mitts/water resistant gloves to keep hands dry when using poles Waterproof boots Headlamp Change of hiking pants and shirt (quick dry material preferred) Change of undergarments (quick dry material preferred) Change of socks (quick dry material preferred) Sleepwear (personal preference) Personal toiletries (including ear plugs, soap, detergent for washing clothes, a few clothespins, etc.) You may want lightweight shoes to wear inside/outside the refugios Sunscreen, good sunglasses, personal first aid requirements (Mole skin, pain relievers, etc.) 1-2 liter capacity for water Laguna Torre

15 Making Tracks in Patagonia November 10 23, 2018 Additional Information Currency The unit of currency in Chile is the Chilean Peso (CLP, typically written with a dollar sign, $). The Chilean peso is subdivided into 100 centavos, although no centavo denominated coins remain in circulation. Chilean coins are in the denomination $1 - $5 - $10 - $50 - $100 - $500. Chilean notes are $1,000 - $2,000 - $5,000 - $10,000 - $20,000. The $1 and $5 peso coins are quite worthless in Chile. The only use they have is to fill up a jar or a bottle for decoration. As of June 2017, there are 670 CLPs per $1 US. The unit of currency for Argentina is the Argentine Peso (ARS, typically written with a dollar sign, $). It is subdivided into 100 centavos, with 1, 5, 10, 25 and 50 centavo coins. The small 1 centavo coin has been removed from circulation and is not minted anymore (post 2001) but you will still see it at times. Banknotes come in 2, 5, 10, 20, 50 and 100 denominations. As of June 2017, the are 16 ARS per $1 US. Credit & Debit Cards Should you use a credit card or a debit card when traveling? Both have benefits. A credit card allows you to delay payment and gives you certain rights as a consumer. A debit card, also known as a check card, deducts funds directly from your checking account and helps you stay within your budget. Otherwise, the two types of plastic are virtually the same. Both will get you cash advances at ATMs worldwide if your card is properly programmed with your personal identification number (PIN). (For use in Patagonia, your PIN must be four digits long.) Both offer excellent, wholesale exchange rates, and both protect you against unauthorized use if the card is lost or stolen. Check your bank's policies concerning foreign transaction fees and interest and fees charged for cash advances. Exchanging Money For the most favorable rates, change money through banks. A Visa and Mastercard should work at all ATMs where you can see a Maestro, Cirrus, Mastercard or Visa logo on the front of the machine. Always try to use ATMs attached to the side of a bank. ATMs will give you your money before your card, which can lead to instances of people leaving their card in the machine. Although fees charged for ATM transactions may be higher abroad than at home, Cirrus and Plus exchange rates are excellent, because they are based on wholesale rates offered only by major banks. You won't do as well at exchange booths in airports or rail and bus stations, in hotels, in restaurants, or in stores, although you may find their hours more convenient. I recommend we get a little money at a Punta Arenas airport ATM and then hit a bank ATM Monday in Punta Arenas. In Chile, banks are open from 9.00am to 2.00pm Monday to Friday. In Argentina banks are open from 9.00am to 2.00pm Monday to Friday. Automated Teller Machines (ATM) are widely available at banks, along main shopping streets and in malls. Spending Money Many restaurants, markets, and other service providers readily accept US dollars. Most travelers bring a small amount of US cash with them and withdraw from ATMs as they need it along the way. ATMs are readily available in the larger towns and cities. Travelers can withdraw US dollars or local currency at fair exchange rates. Traveler's checks are fine, but they can be more difficult to exchange and you will usually receive a poorer rate or be charged an additional fee. Credit cards are accepted only in the larger

16 restaurants and stores. Although it is helpful to bring a credit card along for emergencies, don't count on using it for most purchases. The ATMs in El Calafate are notoriously problematic and there is only one ATM in El Chalten which is often empty. Therefore, make sure you arrive with plenty of cash, as not everywhere will accept credit cards. Tipping Hotel workers in Chile will readily accept your tips. It's considered good tipping etiquette to leave a gratuity for anyone that helps you out. Maids should get around 1000 pesos per night (per person); pesos per bag to the porters, and 5,000-10,000 pesos for the concierge. In Chile, tipping etiquette dictates you leave a gratuity of at least 10% of your restaurant bill. Some establishments will include 10%, in which case you should still give at least 5% directly to your server. They make very low wages and can really use the extra money. Also, if you buy some food at the grocery store, you should tip the people who bag your items pesos. These are typically young boys who do not get paid at all. No drivers or guides in Argentina will expect tips so please don't feel you have to tip them unless you think they've really done more than you could reasonably expect. However, if you feel you have gotten really good service from a guide, a tip of $3-5 USD per day/per person is a reasonable amount. Hotel porters expect a small gratuity for carrying your bags up to your room. This is obviously discretionary and you don't have to do this, but they tend to receive next to no wages, so the tips are effectively their salary. A tip of $5-10 is reasonable. In general meals are usually tipped at 10%, but a few coins for a coffee or a beer will be fine. An interesting note: when your server is taking your bill with payment away, saying gracias usually implies that the server should keep the change as a tip. If you want change back, don t say gracias say cambio, por favor instead. Note that tips can t be added to credit-card bills, so carry cash for this purpose. Also note that the cubierto that some restaurants charge is not a tip; it's a sort of 'cover charge' for the use of utensils and bread. Electrical Devices To use your U.S.-purchased electric-powered equipment, bring a converter and adapter. The electrical current in Chile and Argentina is 220 volts, 50 Hertz alternating current (AC); wall outlets take continental-type (European) plugs, with two round prongs, in both Chile and Argentina. However, in Argentina you can also expect to need the Australian style plug that looks like a \ / shape with two flat prongs. If your appliances are dual-voltage, you'll need only an adapter. Otherwise, you will need a converter as well. Don't use 110-volt outlets, marked "for shavers only," for high-wattage appliances such as blowdryers. Most laptops, tablets, cell phones etc. operate equally well on 110 and 220 volts and so require only an adapter. Country Codes The country code for Chile is 56 and for Argentina it is 54. The telephone number for the Hostería El Paraíso in El Chaltén, for example, is: 54 (02962) , where is the area code. When calling from abroad, the initial 0 from the local area code should be left out. For example, a call from Denver to the Hostería El Paraíso would be dialed as

17 Travel Documents When traveling internationally make at least two photocopies of your passport (one for someone at home and another for you, carried separately from your passport). Also, take a photo of your passport so that you have an extra copy on your camera. When staying in a hotel, it is best to leave your passport in a safe in your room while you are out for the day. If you lose your passport, promptly call the nearest embassy or consulate and the local police.