ILLAMPU (6368M) TECHNICAL CLIMBING

Transcription

1 ILLAMPU (6368M) Illampu s south face TECHNICAL CLIMBING Illampu (6356m) is the northern most mountain in the Cordillera Real, and according to indigenous folklore is considered the King of the mountains. Despite being 6356m, nearly 200m shorter than Sajama (6549m) the tallest peak in Bolivia, Illampu is one of the hardest climbs both physically and technically in the Sorata massif and in Bolivia. This climb offers steep snow and ice climbing, and spectacular views of the Cordillera Real, Lago Titicaca (3810m) the Amazon Basin and to the north, Cordillera Apolobamba [1]

2 PROGRAM DETAILS Type of activity: Technical Climbing with ropes, trekking up to high camp (5200m) ILLAMPU Difficulty: 3-4 moderate fitness / good fitness Experience required: 3-4 some experience / experienced Grade of climb: North west headwall, South west ridge III-/AD 65 Number of days: 5 days, 4 nights Tour starts in La Paz Tour ends in La Paz Best time of year: May to September Season: Dry season: days are mild and nights are cold Highlights: Reaching the summit of one of the most challenging peaks in Bolivia, visiting the village of Sorata and surrounding area. Coming back down from the head wall [2]

3 PROGRAM Day 1: La Paz (3600m) Sorata (2700m) Our first day is the drive to Sorata. As we head out of La Paz into the city of Al alto with have great views of La paz city and the surrounding mountains. Later we cross the Altiplano were we pass most of the Cordillera Real. After 2 hours we reach a pass which takes us down into the valley of Sorata. A long the way we stop for photos of Illampu, one of the most impressive looking mountains in the Cordillera Real. Once in Sorata we notice the climate is much warmer and is a great place to relax and drink a beer in the plaza. 3 4 hours driving (LD) Hostel Day 2: Sorata (2700m) Lachathiya (4200m) - Base camp of Illampu, Aguas caliente (4200m) Today we head to the base camp. First we drive up the new road to Lachathiya where we meet the mules to carry our gear up to base camp. We climb up the valley to cross over the pass of Huilakota (4886m), and then descend down the other side to reach the base camp of Illampu. We still won t be able to see the mountain as it is hidden behind other mountains. 1 hour driving, 3-4 hours walking (BLD) camping Day 3: Base camp High camp (5200m) Porters will carry all equipment and personal gear up to the high camp. We will climb over the old glacier slabs and climb along the valley of the mountain. We will make camp just below the last glacier. 6-7 hours (BLD) camping Day 4: High camp Summit (6368m) High camp Base camp This is a very long day and we will need to leave very early in the morning. There will be a 2 hour walk up to the base of the wall, from where we will start to pitch up the wall, climbing on ice up to 60 for 400m. We then have a further 300m on the ridge until the summit. After a short rest we head back down the same way hours (BLD) camping The summit ridge on Illampu [3]

4 Day 5: Base camp Lachathiya Sorata La Paz In the morning we pack up camp and meet the mules. We head back up to the Huilakota pass. From the pass we have an easy walk back down to Lachathiya. Here we meet our transport. First we have to drive back to Sorata and then onto La Paz. Drop off at hotel. 2-3 hours walking, 4 hours driving (BL) END of SERVICES [4]

5 PRICES Prices include: Professional English speaking mountain guide, guide ratio 2 clients to 1 guide Meals as mentioned, including drinks at camp meals (B breakfast, L lunch, D dinner) All private transport Mules, up to base camp and back down Porters, up to high camp and back down to base camp 1 night hostel (Sorata) Full camp, includes: tents, kitchen equipment, chairs, tables, dinning tent etc Cook Equipment for the mountain, ropes and protection Not include: Personal clothing Personal insurance Rescues at clients cost Extra services not mentioned in the program Tips Apolobamba in the distance Prices: 1 person $1670 US 2 people $1010 US each 3 people $885 US each 4 people $860 US each Prices with spanish speaking guide: 1 person $1405 US 2 people $875 US each 3 people $825 US each 4 people $805 US each Contact details: Calle Linares #940 Info@climbingsouthamerica.com 1st Floor Web page: La Paz Office phone number: Bolivia Cell phone number: [5]