NORTH SHORE CONSERVATION REGION 50 Year Vision

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1 NORTH SHORE CONSERVATION REGION 50 Year Vision The North Shore of Minnesota has what no other place in the Midwest can offer an inland sea, a mountain backdrop, an unspoiled wilderness, and a unique feeling all its own. The North Shore is a place that you will want to come back to again and again. NATIONAL SCENIC BYWAY PROGRAM 117

2 Perhaps more than any other place in Minnesota, the North Shore is what outsiders perceive as our state. It has outstanding recreation opportunities. It has a string of seven state parks that are in many ways the gems of the state park system. Everybody loves coming to the North Shore to visit or buy land for vacation property or a place to retire. That is both its biggest threat and greatest opportunity. The challenge for the North Shore is continuing to develop its recreational potential while protecting its signature natural features. 50 Year Conservation Vision Centuries ago, the voyageurs and the Ojibwe people thrived on this region s bountiful fishing, trapping and hunting. Today s residents and visitors enjoy similar opportunities and see a similar landscape. Lake Superior and the Sawtooth Mountains with hundreds of creeks, rivers and waterfalls dominate vistas. What s new to the landscape in the last 150 years is Highway 61. Nestled between the hills and the shore, this highway is a transportation lifeline for people and goods and is marked with growing tourist towns, billboards, for sale signs, and other numerous signs of development and prosperity. As visitors and new permanent residents alike squeeze in the narrow Highway 61 corridor, development is crowding out wildlife, parcelizing forest habitat, polluting area rivers and changing forever a sense of place among the most iconic of our state. The region s conservation needs will be attained if future growth is concentrated in areas with existing infrastructure such as sewage treatment systems. 118

3 The Setting Northeastern Minnesota has always been known for rugged landscape and hardy inhabitants. Forested and water-rich, this landscape is a gift from glaciers that once covered this area 10,000 years ago. To Minnesotans, the North Shore means Lake Superior, in all its majesty, its shining waters stretching to the horizon. The North Shore is where Superior s craggy shoreline meets Minnesota s forested wilderness. Low-rise mountains blanketed by pine and birch stand watch along the shore. Wilderness streams plunge over waterfalls. Harbor towns are nestled at irregular intervals along the shore. Glacial melt waters formed Lake Superior, as well as the myriad of lakes and wetlands that dot northeastern Minnesota s landscape. These fragile lakes and wetlands persist in abundance principally because glaciers receded without the development of extensive drainage systems. This lack of an extensive drainage or plumbing system, coupled with relatively high precipitation and thin soils underlain by bedrock, has produced a landscape defined and shaped by water. Nearly one-fifth of the state s 15,000 lakes and over 150 trout streams are located in four of the seven counties that make up Minnesota s portion of the Lake Superior Basin. Forests that cover approximately 84 percent of the basin s surface slowly filter and release precipitation to groundwater systems, streams, and lakes. Although the basin s streams and lakes are impressive in their own right, Lake Superior is in a class by itself. Truly an inland sea, Lake Superior covers a surface area of about 31,700 square miles. Roughly speaking, Lake Superior is about the size of Maine. It holds such an immense volume of water that it could flood all of North and South America under a foot of water. The beauty of the drive along the North Shore rivals any scenic drive in the world. Highway 61 provides a connection from the urban economic base of Duluth to the Gunflint Trail and the Boundary Waters beyond. The ribbon of land along Superior s shore draws visitors throughout the year and is the number one tourism destination point for residents of the Twin Cities. 119

4 The beauty that has attracted generations of Minnesotans is increasingly threatened. The Minnesota State Demographer s office estimates that the population in the three North Shore counties is expected to rise significantly over the next 25 years. St. Louis County s population is projected to rise by almost 10 percent, Lake County s by nearly 20 percent, and Cook County s by more than 60 percent. As more residents move in, so do businesses and industry. New roads are built to accommodate increasing traffic and new wastewater treatment options must be made available. All of this development near the lake or in the forests and hills nearby affects both Superior and its tributaries. The region s abundance of natural resources attracts two million visitors annually. The resulting economic impact is significant: related employment is up significantly are gross receipts due to travel and tourism. In 1996, gross sales at the North Shore s hotels, motels, resorts were $89,056,641, a 28 percent increase over 1994 sales. Current estimates put the total amount spent by visitors to the North Shore at $275 million per year. Also in 1996, six North Shore State Park campsites hosted 1,044,235 visitors and overnight guests, a 3.5 percent increase over 1994 figures. Forest products are an important contributor to the regional economy, although much of the activity is located in the portions of Cook, Lake, St. Louis, and Carlton counties outside of the North Shore Conservation Region. For these four counties as a whole, over 4.5 million acres of timberland produce nearly 946,000 cords of pulp and timber a year worth $30 million. Forest harvest is an important activity in areas away from Lake Superior, especially within five State Forests consisting of 153,600 acres (Cloquet Valley, Pat Bayle, Finland, Fond du Lac, and Grand Portage). Wildlife Habitat Most of this region is underlain by rocks of the Canadian Shield scoured by continental glaciers within the last 15,000 years. This relatively recent geologic event left a landscape that is covered in places by thin deposits of coarse loamy till. This part of Minnesota receives more of its precipitation as snow than any other part of the state and has the longest period of snow cover. As a result of the climate and soils, most of the dominant vegetation is fire-dependent forests and woodlands. Although red and white pine forests were widespread in the past, most of the pine was cut around the turn of the last century. Forests of aspen, paper birch, and jack pine were left on the drier and rocky areas, but sugar maple, yellow birch, and regenerated white pine dominate the more mesic sites. On the wettest sites are peatlands and wet forests predominated by white cedar, tamarack and black ash. The region also includes significant old-growth northern hardwood and upland northern white cedar forest. Lake trout love cold water. They prefer clear, clean lakes surrounded by infertile soils, such as those found in Cook, Lake, and St. Louis Counties and Lake Superior itself. In summer they spend their time in the deep parts of the lake, perhaps down to 100 feet. Once a valued commercial fish in Lake Superior, lake trout were almost eliminated by the sea lamprey. This fish s Latin name, namaycush, comes from its American Indian name, which means tyrant of the lakes. 120

5 The County Biological Survey identified over 732,333 acres of biodiversity significance in this region. While 53 percent of the region s land is in public ownership, most of the private ownership is concentrated along Lake Superior. The public ownership includes nearly 277,000 acres of federal land (262,000 acres managed by the US Forest Service) and 512,000 in state ownership. While this number for public lands may seem large, less than 2 percent of the more than 1.4 million acres in the region have been set aside as parks or preserves and many of the important areas for conservation along the shore and elsewhere are privately owned. The story of the lake trout and the lamprey is legendary and efforts are focused on maintaining a sustainable fishery for lake trout, anadromous rainbow trout, brook trout, coho salmon, Chinook salmon as well as walleye and brown trout. Lake Superior tributaries are abundant in trout and provide one of the best trout fisheries in the area. Inland lakes are the home of trout, small mouth bass, walleye, northern pike and panfish. There are approximately 260 non-game and 35 game wildlife species within or adjacent to the region and, of these, 84 wildlife species are considered Species of Greatest Conservation Need, including 25 that are federally or state listed as endangered, threatened or of special concern. For example, 10 mammal species of concern are known or predicted to occur in the North Shore Region, approximately 46 percent of all mammal species of conservation need in the state. The North Shore Region and associated waters of Lake Superior are home to bald eagles, peregrine falcons, common terns, Franklin s ground squirrels, black-throated blue warblers, Connecticut warblers, boreal owls, merlins, common ravens, northern myotis, deepwater sculpin, and kiyi. The North Shore is one of the most important and visible migratory corridors for entire Midwest as raptors and neotropical migrants make their way along the cliffs above Lake Superior and Hawk Ridge every fall. There are seven Scientific and Natural Areas within the North Shore Conservation region open to public nature observation, including Hovland Woods, Butterwort Cliffs, Sugarloaf Point, Moose Mountain, Hemlock Ravine, Lutsen, and Spring Beauty Northern Hardwoods. Together they total 1,444 acres. 121

6 This region contains some of the most important fishing areas in the state, both in the streams that enter Lake Superior and the lake itself. A recently completed Fisheries Management Plan for the Minnesota waters of Lake Superior documents the challenges for Minnesota to maintain a robust fishery when the state only controls 7 percent of Lake Superior. Moose populations in northeastern Minnesota have shown an alarming mortality rate in recent years, particularly of cows and calves,. Scientists are unable to determine the precise cause, but growing evidence seems to indicate that the population may be falling victim to warming climatic conditions. Moose exist at the southernmost end of their range in Minnesota and can become stressed when temperatures exceed 650F for extended periods of time. This region also serves as habitat for whitetail deer, woodcock and ruffed grouse. Seven Wildlife Management Areas (WMAs) are in the region comprising nearly 5,000 acres. The state WMA plan calls for an about 660 additional acres to be acquired in this region. The North Shore is over planned and under implemented. There is not only an historic lack of coordination among levels of government agencies and community groups, but also many local ordinances and procedures are outdated and ill-equipped to deal with the added development pressures. Between the desire to ensure a strong economy and conservation, the lack of a common and long-term vision for the area leads to fractured planning and a fractured landscape. Species of Greatest Conservation Need will have healthy and sustainable population levels. Strategies: Habitat protection and restoration work should focus on key habitats of: red and white pine forest, lowland coniferous forest, and shoreland-dunes-cliff/talus. Some of the region s distinctive species that will benefit include: Black-throated blue warbler Canada warbler Eastern red-backed salamander Northern myotis bat Ovenbird Peregrine falcon White-throated sparrow Winter wren Acquire 1,747 acres of Wildlife Management Area (WMA) inholdings and establish 660 acres of new WMAs focusing on habitat that will benefit moose, ruffed grouse, deer, sharp-tailed grouse and wolves. 122

7 Remaining high priority natural areas will be identified and considered for protection. Strategies: Identify and target critical areas that need to be protected and/or restored. Note: the County Biological Survey is 97 percent completed in this region. Focus priorities on already inventoried sites such as: 732,333 acres with biodiversity significance identified by the County Biological Survey; 719,322 acres by the Nature Conservancy within terrestrial portfolio sites. Target mature forests so presence is maintained within the range of historical patterns. Key land exchanges will be conducted and land acquired in order to create a network of sites and corridors to maintain terrestrial and aquatic biodiversity. Critical conservation lands will be protected at Minnesota Point, along the St. Louis Estuary and Lighthouse Point. Comprehensive and consistent land use plans will be completed and implemented across the region factoring in cumulative impacts of individual developments. New development will occur along existing transportation, corridors, with existing sewage capacity and in higher density areas. Lakes and Rivers Lake Superior is the dominant natural feature in this area. The challenge for Minnesota is that Lake Superior is increasingly being influenced by forces beyond the direct control of the citizens of the state. From climate change to the introduction of invasive species via ship traffic, the vitality of Lake Superior is threatened. As the fragile landscape around the shore develops, the natural hydrology is altered and the amount of impervious surface is increased. This leads to increased pollutant loads to the streams, lakes and wetlands in the area and, ultimately, to Lake Superior. This can also be exacerbated by a lack of adequate sewage treatment, primarily inadequate maintenance of existing systems or systems that were inadequate to begin with. 123

8 There are 49 lakes in the area over 150 acres in size and many have public access. There are more than 3,000 miles of streams and rivers with nearly 1,900 miles designated as a state trout stream. Lake Superior is the predominant natural resource, tourism attraction and economic engine for the region. Thirty-six lakes are considered impaired, primarily because of mercury contamination. In addition to the lakes, 24 streams are designated as impaired, again, primarily for excessive mercury levels. However, some streams are impaired because of conventional pollutants such as excessive nutrients, particularly in streams near areas of significant development. Of the 24 streams designated as impaired, 12 are designated because of impacted aquatic life. Seven of these are in the Duluth urban/rural development zone (St. Louis Bay, Amity Creek, Talmadge River, Sucker River, French River, Lester River, and Miller Creek). The other nutrient impacted streams are the Nemadji River and Deer Creek in Carlton County, the Knife River and Beaver River in Lake County and the Poplar River in Cook County. The inventory of impaired waters in the state, however, is incomplete and additional impaired waters within the North Shore Region are likely to be identified in the future. Obtaining plentiful drinking water from wells is often a challenge on the North Shore because of excessive salinity. The following is an excerpt from The Seiche, a University of Minnesota publication: Geologists think the pockets of extremely salty water contain Canadian Shield brine. Canadian Shield brine is older than the hills, dating back to Precambrian seas covering the planet two billion years ago; before the supercontinent Pangaea formed; before dinosaurs. Although this water has ties to a distant marine environment, its flavor is born of bedrock s calcium chloride not oceanic sodium chloride. Hyper-saline water typically forms when ordinary water has a chance to sit for a good, long while in bedrock, which is the case around Western Lake Superior. Most residents in the area derive their drinking water from Lake Superior. All lakes and rivers will be tested for unhealthy levels of pollutants on a ten-year cycle, beginning with the estimated 85 percent that have yet to be tested. Cleanup plans will be prepared for the region s lakes and rivers that fail to meet water quality standards (24 river segments and 36 lakes to date), including: Rivers Amity Creek Beaver River Big Sucker River French River Knife River Lester River Little Knife River Miller Creek Poplar River St. Louis River Talmadge River 124

9 Cleanup plans will be implemented to restore all impaired lakes and rivers to healthy water quality. There are currently no approved cleanup plans for this region. Upon approval of future cleanup plans, they should be funded and implemented as soon as possible. Pollutant loads to all area waters will be reduced. Strategies: Develop tax incentives and easements for private landowners to permanently protect shoreline and other critical habitat. Enforce septic regulations and enforcement to ensure that all sewage is properly handled. Help reduce mercury contamination to its waters by reducing mercury from within the region. Zoning and building regulations will be updated to ensure adequate setbacks from water bodies and new septic and wastewater solutions. Aquatic Species of Greatest Conservation Need will have healthy and sustainable population levels. Strategies: Aquatic habitat protection and restoration work should focus on key habitats of deep lakes and headwater to large rivers. Some of the region s distinctive species that will benefit include the: Lake Chub Extra-striped snaketail dragonfly Bloater (a fish) Wood turtle Kiyi (a fish) miles of critical undeveloped river and lake shoreline will be protected for conservation and access as called for in the Aquatic Management Area Plan. The historical sediment contamination in the Saint Louis Estuary and Lake Superior will be abated. Discharging ballast discharge water into Lake Superior will be forbidden in order to prevent the spread of invasive aquatic species. Unnatural barriers to fish passage will be removed from the North Shore s streams. 125

10 Parks and Trails A string of state parks, resorts, and trail systems along Highway 61 attract visitors from throughout the United States and Canada. Opportunities to view wildlife are abundant. The area is renowned for birding opportunities and the likelihood of seeing many rare, majestic animals such as bear, moose and wolf. The region is also well known for its destination resorts and its celebration of the area s natural wonders through festivals and race events that occur in summer (Grandma s Marathon) and winter (Beargrease Dogsled Race). Several important state parks are located on the North Shore, including Gooseberry Falls, Split Rock, Tettegouche, Crosby Manitou, Temperance River, Cascade River, Magney, and Grand Portage. In total State Parks cover over 32,000 acres. The State Park Land Study notes that these parks will see increased recreational demand through 2025, as this region has one of the highest recreational demand projections in the state. State plans do not call for any additional state parks in the region, but 2,200 acres of inholdings within the existing state parks remains to be acquired. The Superior Hiking Trail runs for 235 miles from Two Harbors to the Canadian border traversing the length of the region offering high quality backpacking opportunities. Its entire length is proposed to be part of the North Country National Scenic Trail (NCNST) that runs for 237 miles in the region. About 37 miles of the NCNST are currently incomplete. Of the 332 miles of state trails authorized by the Minnesota State Legislature, 170 have been developed. There remain 161 miles of authorized trail that need to be developed when funding is available. There are approximately 296 miles of designated canoe trails in the North Shore Region including portions of the Cloquet, Kettle, and St. Louis rivers as well as the Lake Superior water trail An extensive system of snowmobile and cross-county ski trails offer year round recreation activities. For instance, the Gitchi Gami Trail and Willard Munger State Trail are located in this area and the Lutsen ski area provides some of the best downhill skiing in the state. White cedar often grows in pure stands over large areas of moist soils. It also is found mixed in extensive tracts with balsam fir, yellow birch, paper birch, white spruce, and black spruce. Upland white cedar forest is most common in Minnesota on Lake Superior s north shore. White cedar has been in high demand for shingles and other specialty wood products, and as a result the largest trees in most cedar forests are continuously removed. Northern white cedar is a medium-sized tree, commonly 40 to 50 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet in diameter. A few trees grow as large as 80 feet tall and 6 feet in diameter. 126

11 The City of Duluth offers many recreational opportunities as well with approximately 12,000 acres of parks, opens spaces and natural areas that also serve as important tourist attractions, including Minnesota Point beach and pines; Magney-Snively Forest Park; Spirit Mountain Recreation Area; Hawk Ridge Nature Reserve and the Duluth Lakewalk. 2,270 acres of private lands within existing state park boundaries will be acquired and added to the system. 161 miles of authorized state trails yet to be developed will be completed miles of North Country Natural and Scenic Trail will be completed. The Superior Hiking Trail will be completed. Multiple types of recreation will be carefully balanced in this narrow corridor. 127