1 Visual Travel Culture Document morocco The Atlantic Coast 26 p A G e s PHOTO REPORT Tangier - Asilah - Oualidia - Safi - Essaouira
2 The sunset land From Tangier to Essaouira we travel across several coastal towns of the Moroccan Atlantic seaboard. Tangier
3 TANGIER The ferry has just entered into the bay of Tangier. The travellers, eager for landing, crowd around the bow. After rubbing their eyes to shake off of the tiredness and boredom of the trip they strain to absorb the first glimpses and scents of the city that seems to be almost about within their reach. Right away, their eyes start to focus on the blocks of the medina piled up the hill. The boat slows down to dock. One and a half hour from Algeciras on the south coast of Spain. We have come only 31 kilometres and we are now not only in another country, but a different continent too. We are on the threshold of Africa s gate, about to set foot on the world s biggest economic inequality. Through this strait pass more than two million people every year. Those heading north sure they will find streets of gold once arrived at their destination; and those who are southbound (as is in our case) paradoxically thinking the same, although we are searching for different riches. Northwards and southwards people cross paths. They avoid each others eyes, and when they do meet face to face, with bewildered looks, they ask each other the same question: why are you running away from paradise? The strait is a swirl of water and wind, a kaleidoscope of TB The Atlantic Coast
4 images made of primary colours; of memoirs, dreams and above all, mirages. Especially busy are the summer months in which thousands of Maghrebi (immigrants to Europe), return to visit their homelands. Once we land, we will have to get round the tourist hunters who speak to us brokenly in almost all languages and offer us their services as the best guides. Tangier is a city of contrasts and contradictions. To walk up and down its streets is to leaf through the book of both its past and its present. The chapter of its future surfs among the waves of the two seas that border its bay, between Cape Espartel and Cape Malabata. Sometimes this city is baffling and bewildering; sometimes fascinating and stunning. Samuel Peppys, English commissionaire during XVII century, described Tangier as a growth on the world. On the contrary, Matisse considered Tangier as Paradise on Earth. Unsurprisingly it was here that the painter started to express his art in that audacious and abstract way, with such intense expressive colours. Later on that would lead to the artistic movement called fauvism (after the French word fauve = beast). That defines Tangier, pure wild instinct. The visitor has to tame it if he does not wish it to tame him; the same way Hercules did with Anteo - Neptune s son and founder of the city. According to Greek mythology he named the city after his wife: Tingis. Its geographical situation, last vertex of the continent that divides the waters of Atlantic and Mediterranean, is like a sonar which has been receiving waves from all cultures and all civilizations. Tangier has learnt something from each of them, the good along with the bad, and no definition between them all, morphing into a kind of widower and stepchild of each of its influencers. Of Tangier it is said that is not really Morocco, but neither Europe nor Africa either. Throughout its history Barbarians, Phoenicians, Romans, Arabs, and various colonizing western powers, have been established here. Between XV and XVII centuries, the Portuguese, Spanish and English followed one another there. Mulai Ismail was the big sultan from the Alawi dynasty who created the current boundaries of Morocco. In 1684 it was he who recovered Tangier for Islam. The Muslims would be the owners of the city for the next two centuries. Meanwhile, the European powers were on the watch, coveting its beauty, and they finally attained their treasure in the mid XIX century. In the beginning of XX century Spain and France divided up Morocco into two protectorates. Somehow, the status of Tangier was not to be resolved until 1922, when the city and its surroundings were declared an international zone. The administration of the city laid in the hands of ten countries, under the vigilance of a mendub, a representative Caverns of Hercules. TB The Atlantic Coast
5 that acted on behalf of the sultan, whose function consisted of calming down the tense situations that such a variety of interests caused. The rules of the game were political and military neutrality as well as economic freedom. Until the independence of Morocco in 1956 Tangier enjoyed a high level of prosperity and artistic splendour. While Europe was being destroyed by war and totalitarian regimes, to this side of the Strait a small piece of sky opened up in the middle of a stormy scenario; the foreign capital slipped through it, and there people could glimpse the paradise of freedom, and indulgence as well. Tangier was a multi facetted mirror that reflected all that in the western world had to hide. Paradise or hell, depending on whose perspective. Spies, smugglers, gangsters, money launderers, gun-runners and pimps existed comfortably. Scenes for homosexuals, painters, musicians, writers and intellectuals. Transgressors, pursued and pursuers were drawn to Tangier like bees to the honey pot. Matisse, William Borroughs, Tenesse Williams, Truman Capote, Winston Churchill, Rita Hayworth, are some of the celebrities that spent time there. Others, like Paul Bowles stayed here forever. The writer and musicologist left his name forever bound to the city. We leave our ship behind, tiered at the quay, plunged into a deep sleep that will last until we awake from ours, at the end of our visit along the Atlantic coast of Morocco. Crossing Avenue D Espagne that runs along the harbour, we get into the medina through its southern gate, following rue Dar Dbagh till we arrive at Petit Socco, main square of the medina. William Borroughs described it as an infinite flow of indecent offerings. Even today is not strange for someone to approach with a proposal like something special for you, my friend. The Grand Mosquée stands out against all the buildings of the square. It was built by Mula Ismail to commemorate the Minzah Hotel interior. expulsion of the English. It is raised up over the ruins of a former Portuguese cathedral, where prior to that had stood a roman temple. Circling the mosque along its northern side, we go straight up Rue Jemma el-kehir (former Marina street), the liveliest street where we feel the fever of the commercial activity. South of the square there is the melah - the old Jewish Quarter. If we go uphill along Rue M. Torres, we arrive at the highest point of the medina, where the Kasbha is located, also erected by Mulay Ismail in the XVII century. Inside its walls there is the old sultan palace, Dar El-Makhzen. Nowadays it houses an interesting museum devoted to Moroccan arts and filled with antiquities coming from the archaeological ruins of Vollubilis, former roman capital of Tangitania. If we want to have a break, there is no better place than in the sultan garden, with Andalusian remembrances, and the Kasbha Square, with its stunning views over the bay. In the fifties, the Kasbah housed the legendary café; 1001 nights, where the band Master Musicians of Jakouka used to play. They came from a small western village near Rif. They delighted Paul Bowles in his first journey to Morocco in Bowles had come to Tangier following the recommendation of his friend Borroughs, specifically to get to know Moroccan music. Later on he would study Moroccan ethnomusicology and write TB The Atlantic Coast
6 several important essays on the subject. Following in Borroughs footsteps, other famous rockers such as Brian Jones (Rolling Stones) and Peter Gabriel, and jazz masters like Onnette Coleman, have visited Tangier. Today as one sits in the shade of the orange and pomegranate trees and listens to the bubbling water of its central fountain, it is difficult to imagine Bowles with his owlish expression, trying to interpret the elusive compasses of Tangier s music. Its structure varied and multi-facetted, and the more attention you pay, the more impossible it is to catch its variety and quality, Bowles himself said in his memoirs. In the Marsha quarter inside the medina there are various points of interest such as the Forbes Museum, former residency of the multimillionaire Malcom Forbes, which houses more than a hundred thousand military miniatures. Another curious building is that of the American Legacy Museum, given away by Mulay Suleiman to the United States authorities. Morocco was the first country to recognize USA as a nation following their independence. The treaty that was signed in 1786 between both countries is the longest running of American treaties. Nowadays, the building holds a remarkable collection from artists who lived in or passed through Tangier, as well as a section devoted to Bowles and the Beat generation. Before leaving the medina, we cannot miss a visit to the Haffa Café, the best place for having a mint tea and a rest in its peaceful terrace that overlooks the bay. This was one of Bowles favourite places. From the Petit Socco, we go down Rue Slaguin, and coming out of the Medina we lead into the Hotel Riat Tanja Restaurant TB The Atlantic Coast 6
7 Grand Socco, in the Nouvelle Ville. This square changed its name to April the 9th of 1947 to commemorate the date when the historic speech vindicating the independence of Morocco took place, made by the sultan at that time Mohammed V. This is the heart of Tangier. It was said to be as lively as Djemma el Fna of Marrakech. Travelling sellers, musicians, snake charmers and story tellers meet here. The square is dominated by the Sidi Bu Abid mosque; built in Nearby is the mendubia, former home of the mendub. We go on walking through Rue de la Liberté. We pass by Tangier s most exquisite and luxurious hotel, the Minzah. Even today it still upholds the legend of before with its renowned celebrities that have lodged here, such as Winston Churchill and Rita Hayworth. Here, as well as the Continental and the Café de Paris, some scenes of The Sheltering Sky by Bertolucci were shot, in which Bowles himself fleetingly appeared; Bowles being the author of the novel on which the film was based. Next stop: the Boulevard Pasteur. It is the main artery of modern Tangier. Here we can feel the glamour of the golden years coffee and suspicious looks, we evoke the yesteryear, surrounded by spies, gangsters and playboys, camouflaged among strict koranic observants. The heritage of that period has been perpetuated through the looks of distrust that try to unmask our true identity. After the coffee break, let s rejoin the turmoil of the pedestrians and noisy traffic in the street. Maybe we will find someone who remembers how multimillionairess Barbara Hutton crossed these streets in her Rolls Royce, and how some of the streets of the medina had to be widened so her ostentatious vehicle could circulate. Ever extravagant she was, bejeweled with emeralds and rubies that once belonged to now ruined ladies or dethroned queens. She was known as the donkey heroine, after one of her better caprices as she was fond of this animals company. Remarkable too were the wild parties that she threw at her luxurious Villa Sidi, a place that even the Spanish dictator Franco wanted to buy, where celebrities and high society members of that time met to attend surprising spectacles where belly dancers and harnessed camels acted out in its international cafés like the famous Café surreal choreographies. We come out of de Paris ( grand damme of Tangier s coffee society.) -Let s have a sit down. Among sips of Tangier, passing through La Montagne - an exclusive residential area with riads(moroccan style houses) and villas - and following the We can not miss a visit to the Haffa Café, the best place for having a mint tea and rest in its peaceful terrace that overlooks the bay. TB The Atlantic Coast 7
8 road 14km west we snake between rocky hills and calm beaches, finally arriving at cape Espartel. The Caverns of Hercules are located here where, according to the mythology, the hero retired after separating Africa from Europe. These are limey, shaded caverns where the sea enters during high tide. The only light enters through a hole in the rocks where some people see the inverted shape of the map of Africa, and others see the shape of a human head. Here also are located the prehistoric remains of the ancient inhabitants of the mythic Atlantida. We are in one of the most strategically a feverish hotch-potch of civilizations and cultures, the coastal towns we are going to visit next are every bit as intriguing, only on a smaller scale. Though these ones are more homogeneous than Tangier, they still are quite different from the in-land towns. Setting aside Rabat and Casablanca, political and business capitals respectively, which we will cover on forthcoming articles, we find in their outskirts small and charming towns, most of them established by one of the main European powers and empires that used them as gateways in their trade routes and military campaigns. central places in the world. To the east, the Mediterranean; to the west, the Atlantic; within a stone s throw, Europe; to the south, Africa and there are two thousand kilometres of Moroccan coast (if the disputed Western Saharan territory is included). If Tangier is Cap Espartel. Its geographical situation, last vertex of the continent that divides the waters of Atlantic and Mediterranean, is like a sonar which has been receiving waves from all cultures and all civilizations. TB The Atlantic Coast 8
9 Asilah Asilah is a town of anarchic sensations that harmonize in our minds stimulating us to search for something sublime.
10 Asilah lies down on the Atlantic coast like a neglected seashell washed up during the high tide. Wandering around her narrow streets, without direction (what else can we do inside a medina), we begin to decipher the secret code that the sun and the breeze have enscribed on her walls with bursts of white ink. Maybe this is the whisper of the muses that comes from the beating of the waves against her thick Portuguese walls, like an urgent message that breaks up on the streets, wrapping them up with a gentle layer of foam that refreshes and washes the facades, and the eyes of those who look at them as well. We discover in that way the transgressor power of our senses that, only here, are able to get through the apparently flat, lively white and empty surfaces, and find never imagined new dimensions. The walls are canvas, the squares stages, the clotheslines, musical instrument strings. Asilah is a town of anarchic sensations that harmonize in our minds stimulating us to search for something sublime. Colours, scents and sounds make up the amphibious path that leads to the prey we have so long been chasing. The gibberish of children romping around while the sun sets Asilah s folks entering the medina through one of the gates opened into the Portuguese walls. TB The Atlantic Coast 10
11 on their small bodies; women humming as they hustle around; echoes of koranic lessons staked out on a corner; fingers beating clay drums in a close but inaccessible backyard; the air perfumed with salt carries a soft sensation of nostalgia that evokes, when breathing in, what we always have longed for and was almost forgotten. On top of a bastion of the walls, with the city to our back, we watch the how the sun seemingly drops into the ocean. Then we realize that we are still in time. Going back through the labyrinth of the medina, we continue unravelling the thread of history in order to find out some of the answers of what Asilah can offer. Asilah is settled on a plane close to the Atlantic at 42 kilometres to the southeast of Tangier. It is a small town of fishermen and craftsmen. Its origin dates from about 3600 years ago when the Phoenicians chose it, a crossroad on their trade route, and founded Zilis, a few kilometres away from its current location. Because of its strategic location, Carthaginians, Romans, Barbarians, Arabs, Portuguese and Spanish succeeded one another in their occupation there. The defensive walls remain today as a lonely Wandering around her narrow streets we begin to decipher the secret code that the sun and the breeze scribbles on her walls with bursts of white ink. TB The Atlantic Coast 11
12 and the old watchtower that nowadays houses exhibitions. Very close from there, we find the Raisuli palace, built at the beginning of XX century, in Spanish-moorish style. The promoter of such a great building was Mulay Ahmed Raisuli, famous bandit of the Rif, whose name is bound to the history of the town he never lived in. His chaotic flirts with the Spanish and the Germans are what first gained him the title witness of those forgotten battles. They were erected by the Portuguese in the XVI century, during the reign of King Sebastian VI, who used Asilah as springboard to conquer Morocco. His ambitious intentions were frustrated in the famous Battle of the Three Kings where he was defeated along with of caid of the region of Tangier, as well as pacha of Asilah. In the same way they led him to be arrested and later murdered, at the hands of the rebels from the Rif. Nowadays his palace is devoted to housing exhibitions, conferences and recitals. Asilah s folks assure that his phantom two other allied sultans. The southwest side of the walls that faces the sea, is frequented every evening at sunset by zilitas (Asilha s inhabitants) as well as foreigners. From this site we get a privileged view of both the green vault of Sidi Mamsur and the Muyahiddin Cemetery, in which tombs are covered by coloured tiles made of ceramic (each colour represents a family). Three monumental gates open up the walls giving access to the old town: Kasbash Gate, Land Gate and Blue Gate. Through the latter we access to Sidi-Ali-Ben- Hamdush square, dominated by Kamra tower, The southwest side of the walls that faces the sea, is frequented by the zilitas (Asilah s inhabitants) as well as the foreigners. TB The Atlantic Coast 12
13 wanders around its rooms. What first calls our attention when walking around the luminous medina is the carefulness and cleanliness of the buildings and streets. What first calls our attention when walking around the luminous medina is the carefulness and cleanliness of the buildings and streets, a characteristic that is considered aseptic and tasteless for some people. In this area there are lot of workshops, exhibition rooms and galleries. It is not strange to find some artists and craftsmen who invite us to visit their work. This, as well as the painting walls, are owed to the cultural festival that has been held in Asilah every summer since Asilah lays down on the Atlantic coast like a neglected sea shell that comes up during the low tide. TB The Atlantic Coast 13
14 With the city in our back, we Watch how the sun dips into the ocean. Then, as we breathe the salty breeze, we realize that we are still in time.
15 Oualidia Oualdidia, small and quiet fishermen town, at the edge of a small half-moon shaped lake.
16 Boats devoted to the oyster collection. Litoral landscape between Oualidia and Safi. OUALIDIA Between El-Jadida and Safi, following down the coast, among marshes and crops we arrive in Oualdidia, small and quiet fishermen town, at the edge of a small half-moon shaped lake. It was founded by Sadi El-Ouladid sultan, from whom the name was taken. Oualdidia is famous by its oyster beds, which produce about two hundred tons per year. The oyster farming started developing since the fifties. The quiet waters of its small lake attract numerous tourists and wealthy families from Casablanca and Marraketch. To the south of Oualidia, the coastal road flows through green meadows of a primitive purity and flown crops cut by stunning cliffs above clean coves of smooth sand. TB The Atlantic Coast 16
17 Safi The atlantic coast, inmense eyelid that looks at the sea. Rough swell that roars pronouncing neglected prayers that disappear among the dark and thin sand where a sleepy saint rest in his morabito, plunged into a faded dream for ever and ever
18 SAFI Safi is the main fishing harbour of the Atlantic, as well as a prosperous industrial town with excellent economic perspectives. To this contribute, on the one hand, the big phosphate processing plant, to the south of the town; and on the other, the big industrial complex devoted to the manufacture of canned sardine, that turns Safi into the first world exporter of this product with thirty thousand tons per year, in spite of the activity slump since the beginning of the eighties, due to the contamination of the sea waters that forced the sardine shoals to emigrate to the south. Although Safi has a very good reputation among Moroccan people, it hardly receives foreigners. This is because of its industrial profile and its proximity to Essaouira. The old medina, surrounded again by Portuguese XVI century walls, is placed Safi pottery has international fame is one of its hallmarks. TB The Atlantic Coast 18
19 Old wood kiln in the Coline des Potiers (potters hill). In Safi all kind of ceramic objects are made: bowls, vases, dishes,
20 at the downside of the town. At one end, overlooking the sea, there is the Qasr al Bahr, stunning square fortress, conceived to defend the harbour entrance; and at the eastern end, there is another fortress, Kelshla, which currently houses the National Ceramic Museum. Precisely, Safi pottery has international fame and is, together with its booming industrial activity, one of its hallmarks. To the north of the medina, outside the walls, there is the Coline des Potiers (potters hill). Here, all the pottery process can be followed, according to as those green tiles that decorate the top of many representative building all over the country. traditional handmade rules: cisterns where the clay is stirred, workshops where the craftsmen mould and enamel the pieces; the firing process in old wood kilns, and small shops for exhibition and selling. All kind of ceramic objects are made: bowls, vases, dishes, as well TB The Atlantic Coast 20
21 Essaouira The strong trade winds, that blow during all the year, form small dunes along the endless beaches of Essaouira.
22 ESSAOUIRA Our journey through the Atlantic coast of Morocco ends in Essaouira, about eight hundred kilometres from the Strait of Gibraltar, where we started. At first sight, the history of this town, on the whole, does not differ from that of other Moroccan fortified towns we have yet visited or passed by; Asilah, Azemmour, El Jadida, or Safi. Her urban structure is not different either. A glimpse at her many name changes though, and we can follow the tracks of those who fought for her, conquering her coveted walls. Firstly, the town was the Berber Amogdul, which means well kept or fortified. Later on, it was the Portuguese Mogdura. The Spanish, based on their implacable phonetic, transformed Mogdura into Mogadur, and the French did their part turning Mogadur into Mogador. Merely altering a vowel was not enough for Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdallah, under whom the city became Arabic again in the middle of XVIII c. and was given its definitive name Essaouira, which means something like well fortified or well designed. The town then flourished under the auspices of the Alawi sultan, who wanted to punish rival city Agadir, The Skala de la Ville is a privileged place, overlooking the cliff, where the Atlantic waves break.
23 which at that time hostilely monopolized trade with Europe. The construction of what would become the biggest harbour of the empire was entrusted to a French prisoner: the engineer and topographer Théodore Cornut., as well as the new town s design. Following the patters of Vauban, his master, in Saint-Malo, he made a straight layout with wide streets, surrounded by stately defensive walls. It was the golden age for the town. The sultan ordered all European consuls to come from Sale and Agadir. Some of the richest families of the country had settled in Essaouira by that time. The intense harbour activity, which concentrated 40% of all Moroccan sea trading, propitiated the settlement of the most important European business houses. Jews were numerous. They were distinguished View of Essaouira with the bastion of Skala du Port and the Mogador island in the distance.
24 jewellers. Their daughters were said to have a delicate beauty and sharp intelligence. According to the legend, they were kidnapped to feed the harems in Fez. Essaouira was an effervescent melting pot, a complex mosaic made of the different tribes that today still inhabit Morocco: the haha, berber-speaking from the south; the shiadma, arab-speaking from the north, and the guenauas, blacks native to Sudan, Senegal and Guinea who were former slaves employed in the plantations and sugar factories of the near Ksob river. It was during the Protectorate period, with the boom of Casablanca that Essaouira began to revel in decadence. the Mogador Island in the far distance. It is, in fact, a small archipelago made of two islands surrounded by several rocky islands, and was previously known as Purple Islands. Here the Romans cultivated the mollusc called murice, which was used to obtain the purple colour with which the emperors tunics were dyed. Nowadays it is a sanctuary for the Eleonora s Falcon that comes here for breeding from Madagascar, and stays from April to October. It is getting dark. The light has a hypnotizing shade. The latest fisherman are packing up their nets and preparing themselves for the following day s tasks. It is time for counting A stroll around the old city and the harbour is a good start to retracing the stages that made Essaouira what it is today. From the neoclassic Arch of La Marina, which communicates the medina with the harbour, we follow the ancient splendour reflected in the tortured architecture of the walls, whose blocks are being melted all through the centuries, like sugar lumps, because of the obstinate mixture of wind and salt. Next to the harbour stays the Skala du Port, impressive bastion built on the seaside. From here there is a beautiful view with the fishing harbour below us and Cinnamon, pepper, red pepper. Each spice has its colour. Each colour is a shade for each dish: cuscus, tajine, kefta Sesame, saffron, mint, coriander. Intense flavours that will burn in the palate before being saved in our memory. up their catches. A few hours before, next to the harbour entrance which place that serves as a fish market, the fish was being sold off. The jingle of coins and the squawk of seagulls searching desperately for their daily ration among the left-over fish, has now replaced the fish-trader s shouts. The fishing boats rock on the quiet waters as if they were warming up before weighing anchor at dawn; they are perfectly aligned like theatre stalls with their dark blue painted hulls. Far away, the sun begins to set, gently plunging into the ocean. It spreads its dying purple rays, over a jailed sky that wraps the island of Mogador,
25 where the falcons perform their bewildering dance. In the battlements of the Skala du Port, we sit down on a rusted cannon. Our imagination flies. The echoes from an Othello passage resound in the memory: If I do prove her haggard, Though that her jesses were my dear heartstrings, I d whistle her off and let her down the wind, to pray at fortune. Said Othello about Desdemona in a place like this, why not? That is what Orson Welles could have been thinking when he chose Essaouira for exterior shooting in his version of Shakespeare s classic, at the start of the fifties. The mean Welles, who was said to pay his assistants with canned sardines, was the pioneer in establishing here a modest branch of Hollywood. Since then, many blockbusters have been shot. The last Kingdom of Heaven by Ridley Scott. Not only has the cinema been seduced by the magic attractiveness of this town. A decade after Welles s version of Shakespeare s tragedy, different winds would blow over this small corner of the Atlantic. Libertine winds with undisciplined habits. They were the sixties. With Sex, drugs, and rock and roll as their motto, a legion of hippies created their own paradise outside the world and its asphyxiating structures in this remote place: pacifists, apostates, agnostics, mystics of their own religion, artists, wandering writers, eccentric musicians etc. They created a legend that still lasts today with which with some crafty guides dazzle the tourists. Jimmi Hendrix, Cat Stevens, The Rolling Stones and Leonard Cohen, were here. Some of them stayed for long periods. All of them became inspired beneath the hazy sky of Essaouira. However, those bonfires around which crazy dances were performed, imitating ancient rites, and the LSD substituted the incense, were put out a long time ago. Currently, the authorities are determined to sieve every grain of sand in order to remove any suspicious object from its long beach, just in case anyone come across hidden embers that could again stoke up that old fire. Nowadays the surfers, are the masters of the beaches. Look a golden winged ship is passing my way, and it really didn t have to stop, it just kept on going. And so castles made of sand slips into the sea eventually. Said one of the most famous songs by the Cherokee Hendrix. Following the Rue de la Skala we arrive at the old city, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In the Mulay El-Hassan square we come across some clues that reveal a schizophrenic truth. It is the consequence of times past that needs to be analyzed through the eyes of geology in order to recognise the various stratums that the wind of history has deposited. Superimposed tracks made of distant footsteps converge at one point. A crossroads of cultures, religions and civilizations that rarely lived together in harmony, most of the time fighting for the ownership of this territory. White houses with peeling off walls, blue windows and yellow frames, where the Moroccan style mixes with the Portuguese. At this late hour, the town seems to withdraw after a busy day. The streets are invaded by a weary atmosphere. This, however, is an illusion - it is a distinctive feature of Essaouira. Inside her walls the town is quiet at any hour, as if always expecting something - like the sleepy beauty, one of its titles. The fact is that the town does not sleep, but it remains behind the false wall of its dreams, listening to the whistle of the wind outside. Inside, slowness reigns. It is said to be a Portuguese legacy. Even women, hidden behind the white veil (hakik) suggest that distant, suspicious TB The Atlantic Coast 25
26 and melancholic face, characteristic of the Lusitanian saudade; and their slow way of walking has the rhythm of a fado. We walk, sticking to the wall, secretly, as if we were entering into somebody else s house while its owners sleep. Right away we find the Skala de la Ville, another bastion, overlooking the cliff. A steeped passage goes down to the caves, where the best Moroccan marquetry craftsmen work the tuya wood, from a tree that was abundant in the region, but today is beginning to be scarce. The craftsmen beautify the wood with mother-ofpearl incrustations, copper and silver threads. Tugging the thread, we go from the guild of craftsmen to the one of jewellers, in the small street of Siaguin. This work was made in the past by Jews. Nowadays most of the pieces are made in Casablanca. Today, the mellah, Jewish quartier, presents an aspect of decadent and almost criminal orphanhood. Before collapsing from exhaustion we take a break at one of the cafés of the quiet and shady Bal-El Sebaa square. It s the perfect place to review our journey, or simply fall asleep before we are atartled by the reminder of having to leave. In this corner of the Atlantic, where the wind keeps on blowing, bringing bottles from everywhere with secret messages inside, we set the curtain down. Just as a gust of wind shook us as we crossed the strait, plunging us into a deep dream and throwing us as if shipwrecked on Tangier, now another gust of wind plunges us into a different deep dream. When we wake up we will be coming back home. At that time, we will ask ourselves if everything has not been but a dream. The answer will be inside our lungs: the purified air; it is the vital element that only experience those who get into the reality of a place that is not theirs. We certainly did - getting involved with the folks, their history or current circumstances, and future concerns. That s the way our beliefs are questioned in order to dismiss those which are useless, and reinforce those which really matter. Both things are vital to breathing, to feeling alive. The fisherman pick up their nets after the fish has just being auctioned. Credits Photos: Jesús Lopez Text: Miguel Ángel Calle Translation: Chatherine Reddington Design: Eiko Liefold Hotels El Minzah: Maison d hôtes Dar Nour: Maison d hôtes Dar Sultan: Maison d hôtes Berbari: TB The Atlantic Coast 26
Half Day Tours & Visits Guided tour of the gardens and palaces of Marrakech on horse drawn carriages...: (Includes Tour guide Fees, transportation in horse drawn carriages 4 pax/carriage, entrance fees
Cal Poly Working Itinerary: Morocco and Spain The following itinerary is a working document and is subject to change. June 15, 2017 Thursday Depart USA / Travel Day Depart Los Angeles en-route to Casablanca
Day 1 -Arrival to Malaga Arrive in Malaga, capital of the Costa del Sol, the Sun Coast. We spend the next two nights in this seaside resort situated in the heart of BenalmadenaCosta on the Costa del Sol.
A Variety of Choices We know the destinations you ll be visiting. Our team works with reputable, local tour operators to offer you a variety of excursions to choose from. Flexibility & Peace of Mind We
Group Travel Specialists Spain, Portugal & Beyond Official Seller of Travel License #ST38569 102 NE 2 nd Street, Suite 303 Boca Raton, FL 33432 Toll free 1-800-422-8000, Fax 561-214-4293 ARC#10-52317-0,
DAY 1: CASABLANCA (ARRIVAL) Arrival at Mohamed V airport. Welcome and assistance by Hibiscus Travel staff and English speaking tour guide. Transfer to the hotel by an air conditioned bus. Lunch in a local
The Magic of 26-30 OCTOBER 2017 National Mall Square in the heart of Washington D.C. Presented by : MOROCCO PREMIER EVENTS www.moroccopremierevents.com In partnership with Kingdom of Morocco Washington
Gess Where? Medinas, Camels and Deserts Experience Morocco Tour Size This is a custom tour that will operate with a minimum of 11 people. Maximum size is 14. Tour Date September 13, 2018 Tour Costs Based
GO TOURISM is a Cape Town based, inbound travel company that holds the keys to the most beautiful destinations imaginable in Southern Africa. Whether you speak French, English, Italian, Dutch, or German,
GUIDE MOROCCO SUMMER 2019 12 DAYS WHERE ARE YOU GOING? MOROCCO Discover the blazing colours and enticing aromas of Marrakech; a crossroads for travellers and traders for centuries where souks and bazaars
Group Travel Specialists Spain, Portugal & Beyond Official Seller of Travel License #ST38569 102 NE 2 nd Street, Suite 303 Boca Raton, FL 33432 Toll free 1-800-422-8000, Fax 561-214-4293 ARC#10-52317-0,
Text 1: Minoans Prosper From Trade Topic 5: Ancient Greece Lesson 1: Early Greece VOCABULARY Crete Aegean Sea fresco Mycenanean Arthur Evans Minoans Knossos shrine Minoans Prosper From Trade The island
Name Date Period General Introduction to Ancient Egypt The Geography of the Nile The Nile flows north from East Africa to the Mediterranean Sea. Along the way there are rough, rocky areas called cataracts.
Tour of the Holy Lands - Delphi The next stop on our journey through Greece is Delphi, which, in Greek, is not pronounced the way you think it is! In the Greek language, the "D" sounds like "Th" so Delphi
CHALLENGE OVERVIEW A land of incredible history and culture, Morocco is a melting pot of Berber, Arab and European influences. The country is perched between the Atlantic Ocean and the Sahara Desert in
Chapter 25 Geography and the Settlement of Greece 25.1 Introduction How did geography influence settlement and way of life in ancient Greece? Tal Naveh/Shutterstock The ancient Greeks learned to use the
11 DAYS 8 NIGHTS SPAIN & PORTUGAL from S$2430 per pax Madrid/ Zaragoza/ Barcelona/ Valencia/ Alicante/ Granada/ Malaga/ Seville/ Lisbon/ Toledo PACKAGE INCLUDES Tour as per intinerary Daily breakfast Meals
Provence The Provence region is truly considered as a must see for those who wants to discover the most authentic region of the South of France. Using the very fast train, Provence and its capital Avignon
GIBRALTAR Much more than you can imagine GIBRALTAR Much more than you can imagine Program based on a group of 50 people PROGRAM: 1st DAY: 2nd DAY: 3rd DAY: 4th DAY: 5th DAY: Arrive in Gibraltar Transfer
SPA & LEISURE RIU PRAVETS Tour Itinerary Enjoy a day of leisure and 5-star SPA in the foothillls of the Balkan Mountain, an hour away from Sofia. Riu Pravets complex offers a variety of activities such
13 days Countries visited Morocco Tour Highlights Make bread and soups in Fes Cook Moroccan delicacies Sample wines in Meknes Spice shopping in Marrakesh Eat street food in Djemaa el-fna Dine in a hidden
HOTEL ACQUISITION OPPORTUNITY IN AGADIR Some facts about Morocco Morocco is today Africa s destination # 1 World Class Brands Top Tourism Investors Transforming Morocco Into a world class luxury destination
A journey through Oman offers a glimpse into a country where the desert evokes images of Arabia as told in the fabled stories of One Thousand and One Nights, where the unspoiled beaches stretch for hundreds
EPSA 2011 Best Practice Certificates, 15 November, 18.30 hrs Ladies and gentlemen, On behalf of the municipal government, I am delighted to welcome you officially, here in the beautiful town hall of Maastricht.
Catalans By: Ryan Conley Population Right now there are about 7.2 million people living in Catalans. 70% of the people there are living in Barcelona. Its imperial force is usually spread across the Mediterranean.
Casa Victoria Region: Sicily Sleeps: 6-8 Overview Casa Victoria is a modern and stylish villa in Sicily with expansive views to the bay of Palermo. Relax in a beautiful landscape, swim in a superb 12-metre
Curious Traveler s Tour of Puglia May 20-June1, 2018 Life is a hint of magic and great pasta! ~ Federico Fellini Sunday, May 20, 2018 Flights leave Dallas for Brindisi. Monday, May 21 Marilisa and I will
Chapter 7 Geography and the Early Settlement of Egypt, Kush, and Canaan How did geography affect early settlement in Egypt, Kush, and Canaan? Section 7.1 - Introduction RF/NASA//Corbis This satellite photograph
16 Day Three Kingdoms Spain Escorted Group Tour (RUTT39) GUARENTEED DEPARTURES IN TOURIST CLASS HOTELS Day 1 (Wednesday) Madrid Trujillo Lisbon Depart at 0800 AM from Madrid meeting point. Depart for the
10 DAY Moroccan Explorer MXMEMM-8 This tour visits: Morocco Feel the magic of the Middle East on Topdeck s Moroccan Explorer trip, which starts and ends in the cultural hub of Marrakech. Travel to Casablanca,
CONTENTS Preface... 5 Crete and the Civilization of the Early Aegean World... 11 I The Mediterranean World...13 II Crete...15 1 Legends of Crete...15 2 The Palaces of Crete...18 3 Dress... 20 4 Religion
CROATIA LUXURY CRUISE: FROM DUBROVNIK TO SPLIT Enjoy the highlights of southern Croatia on a brand new luxury vessel. Discover the Adriatic coast and immerse yourself in the natural, cultural and historical
+44 (0)20 8741 7390 The Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan lies at the heart of a region whose development and culture has played a pivotal part in the history of the world for the past two thousand years. This
Côte d Azur Tour French Riviera Côte d Azur is located between the southern Alps and the Mediterranean. It is known all over the world for its glamour and beauty, not to forget its delicious gastronomy
BAHIA DE LA CONCHA / THE CONCHA BAY: From Chillida to Oteiza La Concha (The Shell) Bay is one of the most beautiful promenades of Spain. For many years it was the favourite place of the Spanish monarchy
PARADOR DE CEUTA Parador de Ceuta Surroundings Ceuta lies between the Mediterranean and the Atlantic, between Europe and Africa. It offers sun and sea, exoticism and culture, along with an enviable climate.
Beijing's Dingling Tomb: An Awe-Inspiring Tour of Chinese History Among a series of Ming Dynasty tombs that are held in great reverence by archaeologists and the Chinese people alike, Beijing's Dingling
Name Class Date Ancient Egypt and Kush Section 1 MAIN IDEAS 1. Egypt was called the gift of the Nile because the Nile River gave life to the desert. 2. Civilization developed along the Nile after people
2.8 Primary and Secondary Sources We have compared the way a historian works to the way a detective works. The main difference between detectives and historians is the evidence they work with. Detectives
Portuguese Castles Private Tour Garden of Europe with a Glorious Past Let us enjoy splendid cities and medieval towns, castles and historic places which have unique stories to tell. Adventurers, seafarers,
1.11.2016 Asni The UN Climate Change Conference COP22 is taking place in Marrakech from 7 th 18 th November and the whole city is being brushed up, however only in those areas, where the official delegates
Pick a Box Game 1 a green I see story as at be and story number and green a number at as see and story as green be I I see be and at number Pick a Box Game 2 like one we the or an or an like said of it
Hannibal crosses the Alps 247-182 BC Early years Hannibal Barca was born in Carthage, North Africa, (now a suburb of Tunis, Tunisia) in 247 BC. At that time this once prosperous seaport was losing a long
Italy - Walking Along the Amalfi Coast 2018 Individual Self-Guided Hiking Tour 8 days / 7 nights 2 different programs to discover the Amalfi Coast, Naples, Pompeii, the Vesuvius Naples and its surroundings
The Minoans and Mycenaeans Who were they? Where did they come from? What did they accomplish? Where did they go? Minoan civilization arose on the island of Crete. Legacy (or gift from the past) Their legacy
Chapter 17, Section World Geography Chapter 17 Mediterranean Europe Copyright 2003 by Pearson Education, Inc., publishing as Prentice Hall, Upper Saddle River, NJ. All rights reserved. Chapter 17, Section
1. One way in which the Justinian Code and the Napoleonic Code are similar is that both A) made slavery unacceptable B) gave people a set of rules to follow C) treated all equally under the law D) provided
Into Fez Tourism, Tourists And Tour Guides In An Urban Moroccan Demimonde By DIZARD JESSE If searching for the ebook by DIZARD JESSE Into Fez Tourism, Tourists and Tour Guides in an Urban Moroccan Demimonde
Group Travel Specialists for Spain, Portugal & Beyond since 1979 Official Seller of Travel License #ST38569 102 NE 2 nd Street, Suite 303 Boca Raton, FL 33432 Toll free 1-800-422-8000, Fax 561-214-4293
Willemstad: Maritime Heritage Dimitri Cloose "In the middle of Willemstad, runs the St. Anna Bay canal, which opens into a whimsical, large harbor area, named Schottegat. There is a pedestrian bridge resting
Reading Informational Medford 549C Work Sample Effective February 2010 Informational Text Title: Geography and the Settlement of Greece Reading Work Sample Assessment Middle School Geography and the Settlement
MESSINIA COASTAL BIKING TOUR COUNTRY: Greece LOCATION: Messinia South Peloponnese DEPARTURES: 2017, every Saturday from 1/4/17-21/10/17. DURATION: 8 days PRICE: 735p.p (+ 60 on high season Jul-Aug) excluding
Title: Getting to Know St. Petersburg Overview: Students will: gather information and knowledge about the city of St. Petersburg, Russia work in pairs to solve problems with answers from an article check
How the Nile River Led to Civilization in Ancient Egypt By USHistory.org, adapted by Newsela staff on 03.07.17 Word Count 786 Level 950L TOP: This photo, taken around 1915, shows the flooding of the Nile
STAGE Barnaby Newbolt Introduction This ungraded summary is for the teacher s use only and should not be given to students. Chapter summary Chapter 1 (A world of wonders) introduces the idea of wonders.
Sans Incredible Vacations, LLC, 421, 7 th Av, Suite 1004, New York, NY 10001 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org, Website: www.sansincrediblevacations.com Tour code: IVI/S/1001 London Stopover package
New Year in Puglia Departures & Prices Airport Departing Time Returning Time Cost Availability Heathrow 28 Dec 17 06:45 03 Jan 18 19:10 1790 Sold out What's Included Return scheduled flights Six nights
Table of Contents Table of Contents Introduction: Dear Teacher...1 Introduction: Dear Student...1 By Definition We Find...2...3 Activities...7 Animal Wonders...12 Animal Wonders Activities...15 Art Wonders...18
The Persian Empire Mr. Mable 2012 Aim: How did the Persians build and maintain a tremendous empire? Who were the important leaders? What were their contributions to history? The Rise of Persia The Persians
Palacio Nazaries, Alhambra, Granada A journey to show some of Spain s most emblematic places, culture and essence Itinerary Madrid Andalusia 8-9-day Tour Autumn 2016 Draft, version 160422 Segovia Madrid
Times Square & Pizza In New York, Beads In New Orleans & Sunshine In Miami February 22, 2018 World-first #TravelBrag AI analysis from Hotels.com reveals travelers top social media brags Hotels.com launches
The Inca Civilization Ashley Feltz, Ashley Hamilton, Ashley Giles, James Porter and Chris Bernard History of the Inca Existed for 300 years, ruled all of South America for a hundred years.the sun was one
Hotel investment opportunity Agadir -Tangier Moroccan Agency for Tourism Development June 2017 Proposal Location Asset type Contract This proposal represents an opportunity to acquire a majority 100% stake
EARLY PEOPLE OF ITALY Chapter 9: The Ancient Romans INTRO: The Italian peninsula is a mountainous land, shaped like a highheeled boot. Many different people migrated to the Italian peninsula through many
ΕTAPE 1 Distance 49 km. Route: Sparta "Tegea" The first 49 km of the race are on tarmac, a quite difficult route with many ascents, the 80% of which are met in the first 19,5 km. On our way, we frequently
Nice Monaco Eze Grasse : French Riviera 4 Days / 3 Nights Arrival: Nice airport Departure: Nice airport The highlights of the stay: Private tour with guide and driver A sensory and historical discovery
1 WARMER Work in pairs and write ten things that you associate with Canada into the maple leaf. 2 WHAT DOES IT MEAN? Write the words from the article into the gaps. The paragraph numbers are given to help
Notes: The Greek World (Chapter 9) I. Persia Becomes an Empire under Cyrus the Great A. Cyrus the Great led a Persian revolt against the in 580 BCE 1. the Great won independence for Persia from the Medes,
Into Fez Tourism, Tourists And Tour Guides In An Urban Moroccan Demimonde By DIZARD JESSE If searching for the book by DIZARD JESSE Into Fez Tourism, Tourists and Tour Guides in an Urban Moroccan Demimonde
MOROCCO & DESERT DISCOVERY 21 st April 4 th May 2018 14 days $3,850.00 Morocco is a land of contrasts - where Africa meets Europe From ancient philosophers and scholars to Bob Marley and Jimmy Hendrix,
On the spot With satellite imagery archaeology is enjoying a new golden age. The archaeologists now have an extensive and precise array of tools for detecting ancient remains. In addition to this support
The Treasures of France You will visit France The Treasures of France Summer 2017 8 Days Explore centuries of French heritage as you cross the valleys and vineyards of the north in search of beauty and
Sailing Route Dubrovnik Montenegro Dubrovnik About sailing in Montenegro Montenegro is another amazing sailing spot of the Mediterranean Sea. It s more mountainous landscapes are a stunning setting for
JAEN, THE LANDSCAPE OF THE OLIVE GROVE Immersed in a sea of over 60 million olive trees 6M ISSN: 1889-3066 vol. 7 (1) (2015), 6M-15M Plains, valleys and mountains enveloped in endless rows of olive trees,
Sicily 18 th September 19 th October 2018 Mediterranean warmth and Twenty-Five centuries of mixed rule Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean and much bigger than most people realise. The Mafia
Labraunda 2012. Preliminary report The excavations at Labraunda this year were very successful and lasted for eight weeks. Our main new discovery is obviously the gold coin from Philip II discovered in
Mesoamerican Civilizations Human Migration Turn to page 237 and answer the two geography skillbuilder questions: What two continents does the Beringia land bridge connect? From where do scholars believe
Tanzania Safari visiting Ngorongoro, Mahale, Selous and Zanzibar Day 0 Heathrow to Kilimanjaro Depart from Heathrow on Kenya Airways night flight to Kilimanjaro (via Nairobi). Day 1 1 night, Plantation
Casa Victoria Region: Sicily Sleeps: 8 Overview This modern and stylish villa with a large swimming pool and expansive views towards the bay of Palermo is a real treasure to discover. The property is located
Your consent to our cookies if you continue to use this website.