Index. Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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1 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 257 Index A abbeys, see monasteries accommodation 15, 232-3, see also individual language 248 activities 17, 18-19, 23-9, see also individual activities addresses 237 air travel 241-2, 244 airlines 241 airports 241 alcoholic drinks language 250 Alpinum Juliana 92 amusement parks Atlantis 51 Pohorje Adrenaline Park 183 animals bears 146 birds 26-7 dormouse 226 Lipizzaner horses 114, 205 storks 199 Anthony Mine Shaft 109 apartments 233 architecture 221 area codes 15, 239 art museums & galleries Božidar Jakac Gallery 152 Children s Art Gallery 188 DESSA Architectural Gallery 50 Equrna Gallery 50 International Centre of Graphic Arts 49 Jakac House 147 Josip Pelikan Photo Studio 188 Kambič Gallery 157 Koroška Gallery of Fine Arts 193 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Lamut Art Salon 152 Ljubjlana City Gallery 50 Ljubljana Museum of Modern Art 48 Maribor Fine Arts Gallery 179 National Gallery 48 Račka Gallery of Erotic Art 188 Škuc Gallery 50 arts festivals 18, 19 Atlantis 51 ATMs 237 B ballooning, see hot-air ballooning Base basketball 218 battles Kobarid 102 Soča (Isonzo) Front 103 bears 146 beekeeping 73, 75, 162 beer 228 Bela Krajina 31, , highlights 140 travel seasons 138 bicycling, see cycling birdwatching 26-7 Bled 76-85, 78 boat travel 244 boating, see also sailing Kolpa River 162 Lake Lake Ljubljana 50-1 Piran 125 Portorož Bohinj books 205, see also literature architecture 221 cooking 224 culture 216 history 209, 211, 212 wine 228 Bonaparte, Napoléon 209 Bovec Božidar Jakac 152 brandy 230 Brežice 154-6, 155 brown bears 146 Broz Tito, Josip 211, 212 budgeting 14 accommodation costs 233 discount cards eating costs 235 train passes 242, 247 bungee jumping 105 burial mounds 207 business hours 233 bus travel to/from Ljubljana 65 to/from Slovenia 242 within Slovenia C camping 232 Cankar, Ivan 220 canoeing & kayaking 28-9, see also rafting courses 101 Kolpa Valley 162 Krka River 153 Soča River 100, 101, 105, 8 canyoning 28-9 Gorenjska 80, 86 Soča River 105 Soča Valley 101, 104 Capuchin Bridge 69 car travel 242, Carniolan Mountain 90-4 Carniolan sausage (kranjska klobasa) 205 castles & palaces 213 Bled Castle 77-9 Bogenšperk Castle Celje Old Castle 187, 207 Dobrovo Castle 107 Gewerkenegg Castle 108 Gruber Palace 42 Kluže Fortress 100 Kostanjevica Castle 152 Kromberk Castle 105 Loka Castle 68-9 Mokrice Castle 156 Otočec Castle 150 Podčetrtek Castle 165 Podsreda Castle 169 Predjama Castle 12, 134, 12 Ribnica Castle 139 Rihemberk Castle 112 Snežnik Castle Žužemberk Castle 144 cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals Catholicism 218 caves & caving 27 Black Cave 133 Divača Cave 113 Divje Babe 110 Gorenjska 86 Kostanjevica Cave 152 Križna Gora 135 Krka 144 Logarska Dolina 191 Pivka Cave 133 Planina Cave Poltarica Cave 144 Postojna Cave 9, 131-2, 9 Škocjan Caves 10, , 11 Vilenica Cave 113 Celje , 186 cell phones 15, 239 Cerknica 135-6

2 258 INDEX C - H Cerkno children, travel with 55, 234, see also amusement parks, zoos churches & cathedrals Cathedral of St George 123 Cathedral of St Nicholas (Dol) 147 Cathedral of St Nicholas (Lju) 43 Chapel of St George 37 Church of St Catherine 80 Church of St Francis Assisi Church of St James 42 Church of St John the Baptist 85 Church of the Annunciation 69 Church of the Holy Trinity 115 Franciscan Church of the Annunciation 37 Rotunda of John the Baptist 118 Serbian Orthodox Church 49 Ursuline Church of the Holy Trinity 43 cinema 205, festivals 19 City of Women 19, 52 classical music climate 14, see also individual regions climate change 241 climbing, see mountaineering consulates 235 convents, see monasteries costs 14, 233, 235 courses diving 126 kayaking 101 language 51, 236 sailing 129 Cows Ball 19, 87 credit cards Črnomelj , 160 cruises, see boating, sailing culture 204, 205, books 216 currency 14 customs regulations 234 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 cycling 26, 244, see also mountain biking Brežice 155 Kozjansko region Kranjska Gora 91-2 Krka River 144 Pohorje region Radenci 201 Soča Valley 100 D disabilities, travellers with 240 discount cards diving 27 courses 126 Lake Piran 126 Divje Babe 110 Dolenjska 31, , highlights 140 travel seasons dormouse 226 Dormouse Night 19 Dragon Bridge 41 drinks 17, 227-9, see also food & wine festivals language 250 driving, see car travel driving licences 245 Druga Godba 18 E economy 204 Eko Muzej 190 electricity 234, 235 embassies 235 emergencies 15 emigration 216 etiquette 204 EU membership 215 events, see festivals, sporting events exchange rates 15 F farmhouses 232 festivals 18-19, see also food & wine festivals, music festivals, sporting events Ana Desetnica International Street Theatre Festival 52 City of Women 52 Cows Ball 87 Days of Poetry & Wine 175 Dry Goods and Pottery Fair 139 Idrija Lace-Making Festival 109 International Wildflower Festival 87 Jurjevanje 161 Kurentovanje 175, 176 Laufarija 111 Ljubljana Festival 52 Mini Summer for Children International Festival 55 Primorska Summer Festival 118 Pustni Karneval Slovenian Film Festival 19 Trnfest 52 Venerina Pot 71 film, see cinema Filovci 200 fishing 27-8 Cerknica 135 Gorenjska 80 Kolpa River 162 Krka River 150 Lake Lake flag, Slovenian 214 flight-seeing, see hot-air ballooning, scenic flights floating mills 200 folk music 221 food 17, , see also food & wine festivals, individual regions costs 14, 235 kranjska klobasa 205 language top restaurants 225 food & wine festivals Cviček Wine Festival Dobrovo cherry festival Fishermen s Festival Harvesting of the Old Vine 179 Kozjansko Apple Festival Ljubljanska Vinska Pot 52 Must Festival Nature & Wine Festival Plum Days Polenta Festival Pumpkin Festival Rebula Wine & Olive Oil Festival Sevnica Salami Festival Velike Brusnice cherry festival 152 Vinska Vigred 158 Wine Spring football 218 fortresses, see castles & palaces Franja Partisan Hospital 110 frescoes 43, 48, 69, 115, 142, 152, 188, 194, 199 G galleries, see art museums & galleries gardens, see parks & gardens gay & lesbian travellers 62, 235 golf Bled 81 Moravske Toplice 202 Otočec ob Krki 150 Gorenjska 30, 67-97, 68 highlights 68 travel seasons 67 gorges Mostnica Gorge 86 Rakov Škocjan 135 Triglav National Park 27, 28, 94-7, 95, 96, 7, 25 Vintgar Gorge 80 Goriška Brda 107 Gruber, Gabriel 42 guesthouses 233 H Habsburg Empire Hallstatt settlements 139, 143, 157, 207 artefacts 147 tombs 145 Haloze Hills 178 hayracks 172 hiking 16, 23-4, see also walking Adlešiči Bled 81

3 259 Cerknica Mountain Trail 135 Črnomelj E6 & E7 European Hiking Trails 24, 138, 139, 194 Haloze Highlands Trail 24 Jeruzalem-Ljutomer wine road 178 Kolpa Valley 162 Kozjansko region Lake Ljubljana 51 Metlika 157 Mt Triglav 6, 27, 28, 94-7, 95, 96, 6, 25 Nova Gorica 105 Podsreda Trail 169 Pohorje region Ribnica 139 Rogaška Slatina 171 Škofja Loka Hills Slovenian Alpine Trail 194 Slovenian Mountain Trail 24 Soča Trail 92 Soča Valley Sub-Alpine Trail 24 Triglav National Park 6, 27, 28, 94-7, 95, 96, 7, 25 Via Alpina 24 Vintgar Gorge 80 Vršič Pass 10, 92-3, 3, 10 history Battle of Kobarid 102 Bonaparte, Napoléon 209 books 209, 211, 212 Christians 208 early settlement 207 EU membership 215 Habsburg Empire Hallstatt settlements 139, 143, 145, 147, 157, 207 independence Janša, Janez 215 Protestant Reformation 209 recent years 204-5, 215 Roman Empire Romantic Nationalism 210 Slavs 207 Soča (Isonzo) Front 103 Tito, Josip Broz 211 WWII Yugoslavia hitching 245 holidays horse riding 28 Bohinj 87 Cerknica 135 Kostanjevica na Krki 153 Lipica 114 Nove Mesto Otočec ob Krki 150 horses, Lipizzaner 114, 205 hostels hot-air ballooning 28 Gorenjska 80 Kostanjevica na Krki 153 Ljubljana 50 Otočec ob Krki 150 hot springs, see spas hotels 233 House of Experiments 55 Hrastovlje 115 huts, mountain 26, 92, 93, 233 I Idrija , 108 immigration 240, 241 independence insurance health 236 travel 236, 245 internet access 236, see also individual internet resources 15, see also individual arts 223 sport 218 Isonzo Front (Soča Front) 103 itineraries 20-2, see also individual Ljubljana 36 Izola 120-2, 120 J Jakac, Božidar 147 Janša, Janez 215 Julian Alps 94-7, 95 driving conditions 245 K Kamnik 72 Karst region kayaking, see canoeing & kayaking, rafting Kobarid Kočevski Rog Koper , 116 Koroška 31, 192-5, highlights travel seasons 164 Kostanjevica na Krki Kozjansko region Kralj, France 152, 222 Kralj, Tone 152, 222 Kranjska Gora 90-4 kranjska klobasa 205 Križna Gora 135 Krka 144 Krka River 144 Krka Valley Kropa 77 Krpan, Martin 136 Kugy, Julius 92 Kuhar-Prežihov Voranc, Lovro 220 Kurentovanje 175, 176 L lace 18, 109 Lahinja Country Park 162 lakes Jasna Lake 92 Lake Bled 9, 76, 78, 9 Lake Bohinj 85 Lake Cerknica 135 Lovrenc Lake 184 Wild Lake 109 language 14, 216, courses 51, 236 Laufarija tradition 111 laundry 236 legal matters lesbian travellers 62, 235 linden trees 193 Lipica Lipizzaner horses 114, 205 literary writers Jančar, Drago 220 Jurčič, Josip 220 Kuhar-Prežihov Voranc, Lovro 220 Levstik, Fran Prešeren, France 37, 139, 219 Skubic, Andrej 220 Vojnovič, Goran 220 Žižek, Slavoj 62, 222 literature , see also books, literary writers Ljubljana 6, 30, 34-66, 38-9, 44-5, 6-7, 210, 215 accommodation 34, 52-4 activities 50-1 children, travel with 55 climate 34 courses 51 drinking 58-9 entertainment 60-2 festivals 51-2 food 34, 54-8 highlights 35 internet access 64 itineraries 36 shopping 62-4 sights tourist information 64 tours 51 travel seasons 34 travel to/from 65 travel within 65-6 Logarska Dolina Lož Valley Lueger, Erazem 134 M magazines 234 Magyar people 209 Maribor , Maribor Pohorje Matkov Kot 192 measures 234 Metlika 157-9, 158 mills, floating 200 Mithraeum Mithraism 162 mobile phones 15, 239 monasteries Capuchin monastery 69 Kostanjevica Monastery 105 Minorite monastery (Ptuj) 173 Minorite Monastery (Piran) 123 Olimje Minorite Monastery 165 Pleterje Monastery 153 Stična Cistercian Abbey money 14, 15, 234-5, monuments Kugy, Julius 92 Orpheus Monument 173 Prešeren, France 37 Robba Fountain 41 Venetian Horse 193 INDEX H - M

4 260 INDEX M - R Moravske Toplice Mostnica Gorge 86 motorcycle travel 242, mountain biking 26 Kanin Mountain Bike Park 100 Kranjska Gora 91 Lake Ljubljana 50 Podčetrtek 165 Pohorje region 184 Savinja Valley 191 Soča Valley 100 Triglav National Park 95 mountain huts 26, 92, 93, 233 mountaineering 28 Ljubljana 50 Triglav National Park 28, 94-7, 95, 96, 7, 25 Vršič Pass 10, 92-3, 3, 10 Mt Gače 145 Mt Tovst 189 Mt Triglav 6, 27, 28, 94-7, 95, 96, 7, 25 multiculturalism 217 Murska Sobota , 198 museums, see also art museums & galleries, open-air museums Alpine Dairy Museum 85 Beekeeping Museum 73 Blacksmith Museum 77 Brewery Museum 48 Celje Regional Museum 188 Dolenjska Museum 147 Eko Muzej 190 Gingerbread Museum 73 Koroška Regional Museum 193 Liznjek House 90-1 Ljubljana City Museum 46 Loka Museum 68-9 Museum of Architecture & Design 48 Museum of Contemporary History of Slovenia 49 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Museum of Underwater Activities 123 National Liberation Museum 178 National Museum of Slovenia 48 National museum of Slovenia Collection 50 Parenzana Museum 121 Plečnik Collection 49 Proteus Vivarium 132 Railway Museum 48 Saltworks Museum 130 Sergej Mašera Maritime Museum 123 Slovenian Ethnographic Museum 50 Slovenian Firefighters Museum 157 Slovenian Museum of Natural History 48 Slovenian School Museum 43-6 music 220-1, see also music festivals opera 52, 60-1, 171, 181, 220 music festivals Druga Godba 51 Festival Maribor 179 Festival Radovljica 74 Ljubljana Festival 52 Okarina Etno Festival 81 Pod Homanovo Lipo 71 Rock Otočec 19 Rogaška Musical Summer 171 Seviqc Brežice 155 Tartini Festival 126 N national anthem 210 national parks & reserves Kočevski Rog Kolpa Country Park 162 Kozjansko Regional Park 169 Logarska Dolina Country Park Sečovlje Salina Nature Park 130 Triglav National Park 6, 27, 28, 94-7, 95, 96, 7, 25 National & University Library 43 Nebotičnik 48-9 newspapers 234 Notranjska 30, 131-7, 99 highlights 99 travel seasons 98 Nova Gorica 105-7, 106 Nova Štifta 142 Novo Mesto , 148 O Old Vine 179 Olympics (Slovenia s performance) 218 open-air museums Filovci 200 Kolovrat Outdoor Museum 103 Pleterje Open-Air Museum 153 Rogatec Open-Air Museum 172 Walk of Peace 103 opening hours 233 opera 52, 60-1, 171, 181, 220 Otočec ob Krki outdoors 16, 17, 23-9 P painting palaces, see castles & palaces paragliding 28, 104 Gorenjska 86 Soča Valley 101, 104 parks & gardens Alpinum Juliana 92 Ferant Garden 47-8 Forma Viva 128 Ljubljana Botanical Garden 42 passports 240, 241 pensions & guesthouses 233 Piran 8, 122-8, 124-5, 2-3, 8 place names 237, 252 planning, see also individual regions budgeting 14 calendar of events internet resources 15 itineraries 20-2 outdoor activities 23-9 Slovenia basics 14 Slovenia s regions 30-1 themes travel seasons 14, 18 Plečnik, Jože 42, 49 Pleterje Monastery 153 Podčetrtek 165-9, 168 poetry 220 Pohorje Adrenaline Park 183 Pohorje region politics 204, population 204, Portorož Posavje Postojna pottery 200 Prekmurje 31, , 197 highlights 197 travel seasons 196 Prešeren, France 37, 139, 219 Primorska 30, , 99 highlights 99 travel seasons 98 Proteus anguinus 132 Ptuj 13, 172-7, 174, 13 public holidays R Radenci radio 234 Radovljica 73-6, 74 rafting 28-9, see also canoeing & kayaking Kolpa River 162 Ljubljana 50-1 Sava Bohinjka 80 Soča River 10, 80, 105 Soča Valley 101, 104 Rakov Škocjan 135 Reformation, Protestant 209 refuges, see mountain huts refunds 238 religion 205, 218 Ribnica road distances 243 road rules 245 Robba, Francesco 37, 221 rock climbing, see mountaineering Rogaška Slatina Rogatec 172 Rogla 184 Roman Empire Rotunda of John the Baptist 118 Rožanec 161-2

5 261 S safety 239, 245 sailing, see also boating courses 129 Izola 120, 122 Savinja Valley salt pans 130 scenic flights 28, see also hot-air ballooning Gorenjska 81 Schweiger House 41 sculpture Semič 161 Šempeter 191 skiing 24-6, Bled 81 Bohinj 87 Carniolan Mountain 91 Gorenjska 24 Koroška 26 Kranjska Gora 91 Logarska Dolina 191 Mt Gače 145 Pohorje region 185 Primorska 26 Rogla 185 Škofja Loka 71 Slovenj Gradec 194 Soča Valley 101 Škocjan Caves 10, 11 Škofja Loka 68-73, 70 skydiving Slovene language Slovenian Academy of Arts & Sciences 43 Slovenian Emigrants Centre 49 Slovenj Gradec 192-5, 194 Šmartno 107 snowboarding 26 Soča Front 103 Soča River 8, 92, 8 Soča Trail 92 Soča Valley spas 12, 28, 11 Brežice 155 Moravske Toplice Podčetrtek 165 Prekmurje 200 Radenci Rogaška Slatina 170 Terme & Wellness Centre spelunking, see caves & caving sport sporting events Biathlon World Cup 82 Giant Slalom Competition 183 International Ljubljana Marathon 52 International Rowing Regatta 81 Ljubljana Marathon 19 Men s Slalom & Giant Slalom Vitranc Cup Competition 18 Women s World Cup Slalom 183 Štajerska 31, , highlights travel seasons 164 Štanjel 112, 15 statues, see monuments Štekliček House 139 Stična storks 199 Styria, see Štajerska Šubič, Vladimir 49 swimming Idrijca 109 Kolpa River 157, 162 Lake Bled 81 Lake Bohinj 87 Ljubljana 51 Piran 126 Rogaška Riviera 170 Triglav National Park 80 T taxes 238 telephone services 15, 239 theatre Celje 190 festivals 19, 52, 118 Llubljana 60 Maribor 181 puppet 60 thermal baths, see spas time 239 tipping 238 Tito, Josip Broz 211 tombs, Hallstatt 145 tourist information tours, see also individual horse studs 114 horse-drawn carriages 81 tourist train 81 segways 51 Tower, City 173 train travel to/from Ljubljana 65, 66 to/from Slovenia within Slovenia 246-7, 246 travel seasons 14, see also individual regions travel to/from Slovenia travel within Slovenia trekking, see hiking, walking Trenta 93 Triglav National Park 27, 94-7, 95, 96, 7, 25 Triple Bridge 37, 6-7 Trška Gora 151 U Unesco World Heritage Sites Upper Savinja Valley V vacations Valvasor, Janez Vajkard 41, 76, 132, 143, 219 vegetarian travellers Velika Planina 72, 17 Velike Brusnice 152 Venetian Horse 193 Vintgar Gorge 80 Vipava Valley 12, 112, 13 visas 15, 240 Vodenica 163 Voranc, Lovro Kuhar- Prežihov 220 Vršič Pass 10, 92-3, 3, 10 W walking 16, 23-4, see also hiking Metlika 157 Ribnica 139 Rogaška Slatina 171 Walk of Peace 103 waterfalls Boka Waterfall 100 Kozjak Stream Waterfalls 103 Rinka Waterfall 191 Savica Waterfall 85 Šum Waterfall 80 Šumik waterfalls 183 weather 14, 18-19, see also individual regions websites, see internet resources weights 234 white storks 199 wine 17, 227-8, see also food & wine festivals, wine regions wine regions Bizeljsko-Sremič district 156 Goriška Brda 107 Haloze Hills 178 Jeruzalem-Ljutomer wine road 178 Metlika wine area 159 Old Vine 179 Radenci 201 Semič 161 Trška Gora 151 Vipava Valley 12, 112, 13 wine roads, see wine regions women travellers 240 World Heritage Sites writers, see literary writers WWI 211 WWII Y yachting, see boating, sailing Yugoslavia Z Žale Cemetery 50 Žižek, Slavoj 62, 222 Zlatorog 88 zoos Ljubljana Zoo 49 Zreče 184 Žuniči 162 Župančič, Oton 220 INDEX S -Z

6 255 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Helen Berrieman, David Bosomworth, David Budgen, Matthew Bunney, Andy Davies, Leandro Fantuzzi, Val Fletcher, Jennifer Franciska Gráf, Ruth Hazi, Frances Jaffe, Rok Jarc, Michelle Langelier, Rien Linthout, Robert Maisano, Mark Mclain, Sandra Melvold, Peter Millard, Milena Praprotnik, Ana Ribeiro, Tine Rus, Ciska Tillema, Lyn Wills AUTHOR THANKS Mark Baker I would like to thank the helpful staff at the Slovenian Tourist Board, including Ljubljanabased Ana Vugrin and Alenka Hribar in Kamnik, as well as Simona Berden at the Ljubljana municipal office and Domen Kalajzic and his staff in Bled. Thanks, too, to my co-authors, Steve Fallon and Paul Clammer, for making this edition such a smooth ride. Paul Clammer In Slovenia, thanks to Simon Zagoricnik in Lucija, Matic Leskosek in Bovec and especially Klemen Sagadin in Celje. Anton Plankar was generous with his help at Ljubljana bus station, and Katja Batagelj likewise at Postojna. Thanks also to Verica Leskovar at Ljubljana Tourism. Desk-bound thanks to my co-authors Mark Baker and Steve Fallon for their helpful suggestions and easy working style. Finally, thanks and love to Helena, Megan and Tabitha for giving me a roof over my head to write the project up. Steve Fallon A warm najlepša hvala to Petra Čuk, late of the Vila Bled, Domen Kalajžič in Bled, and both Petra Stušek and Verica Leskovar at the Ljubljana Tourist Board. Dušan Brejc of the Wine Association of Slovenia helped with the right vintage(s) and I am grateful. As always, my efforts here are dedicated to my partner, Michael Rothschild. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate Map Data Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) Updated World Map of the Köppen- Geiger Climate Classification, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, Cover photograph: Lake Bled, Gorenjska, Guy Edwardes/Getty Images.

7 256 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd BEHIND THE SceneS THIS BOOK This 7th edition of Lonely Planet s Slovenia guidebook was researched and written by Mark Baker, Paul Clammer and Steve Fallon. The previous two editions were written by Steve Fallon. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet s London office, and produced by the following: Commissioning Editors Joe Bindloss, Helena Smith Coordinating Editors Lauren Hunt, Gina Tsarouhas Coordinating Cartographer Csanad Csutoros Coordinating Layout Designer Nicholas Colicchia Managing Editors Brigitte Ellemor, Annelies Mertens Managing Cartographers Anthony Phelan, Diana Von Holdt Managing Layout Designer Chris Girdler Senior Editor Andi Jones Assisting Editors Carolyn Bain, Rebecca Chau, Erin Richards Assisting Cartographer Samantha Tyson Cover Research Naomi Parker Internal Image Research Aude Vauconsant Language Content Branislava Vladisavljevic Thanks to Dan Austin, Penny Cordner, Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Laura Jane, Jouve India, Asha Ioculari, Kate McDonell, Trent Paton, Raphael Richards, Averil Robertson, Amanda Sierp, Fiona Siseman, Andrew Stapleton, Lieu Thi Pham, Martine Power, Gerard Walker, Danny Williams, Wendy Wright Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - Do the right thing with our content.