Beneath the Ozarks. On the geologic clock, the history of man at. Jesse James rode into history at Missouri s Meramec Caverns BEVERLY EDWARDS

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Beneath the Jesse James rode into history at Missouri s Meramec Caverns BEVERLY EDWARDS On the geologic clock, the history of man at what is known today as Meramec Caverns near Stanton, Missouri, is

Tunneling upward through the bluffs lining the Meramec River, the caverns have, at various times, been mined for saltpeter, used as a hideout for one of the Old West s most notorious outlaw gangs,

1 Beneath the Jesse James rode into history at Missouri s Meramec Caverns BEVERLY EDWARDS On the geologic clock, the history of man at what is known today as Meramec Caverns near Stanton, Missouri, is but a few seconds but few caves can boast such a colorful story of man and nature. Tunneling upward through the bluffs lining the Meramec River, the caverns have, at various times, been mined for saltpeter, used as a hideout for one of the Old West s most notorious outlaw gangs, pressed into service as a summer dance hall and even used as a drive-in for cave enthusiasts! Missouri s unique geology has given rise to all manner of underground formations it s home to more than 6,000 surveyed caves but Meramec Caverns is the largest commercial cave in the state. The proximity to other caverns may have contributed to its relative anonymity. For eons, this awesome natural wonder remained dark, silent and undisturbed. Even the Native Americans who sought shelter in the cave s enormous entrance may have been unaware of the passageways, the underground river, Dubbed America s Favorite Cave and the Greatest Show Under the Earth, Meramec Caverns boasts the largest single cave formation in the world Stage Curtain (top). With 26 miles of underground passages, it served as the perfect hideout for the notorious Jesse James and his gang. PHOTO: MISSOURI DIVISION OF TOURISM MotorHome, October 2005/123

the gigantic rooms and the awesome formations that extended into the darkness beyond the opening. To them, the cave was the home of the god Ucapago.

At the time, settlers were establishing communities along the banks of the Mississippi River.

Jacques Renault is credited as being the first European to find the elusive cave and while it didn t contain the reputed veins of gold he was after, Renault discovered something far more practical

2 the gigantic rooms and the awesome formations that extended into the darkness beyond the opening. To them, the cave was the home of the god Ucapago. It wasn t until the early 1700s that legends of a gigantic opening into the bowels of the earth prompted explorers to seek out this natural phenomenon. At the time, settlers were establishing communities along the banks of the Mississippi River. They had fertile soil for raising crops, but they needed the ingredients for making gunpowder for protection and for shooting game. Jacques Renault is credited as being the first European to find the elusive cave and while it didn t contain the reputed veins of gold he was after, Renault discovered something far more practical and just as valuable: The area was rich in saltpeter that, once leached from the soil and combined with charcoal and sulfur, would make gunpowder. Renault named his discovery Saltpeter Cave and set up a manufacturing operation in the area that would last for 20 years. No significant interest was shown in Saltpeter Cave when it fell into the hands of the United States with the purchase of the Louisiana 124 The caves are easily accessible; guided tours depart every 20 to 30 minutes and follow concrete walkways with hand railings. Meramec Caverns offers an underground classroom for students and Scout troops featuring hands-on workshops in ecology, geology and topography. Outside, enjoy a float trip, pan for gold and gemstones at the Meramec Mining Company (left), or relax at the on-site campground. Territory, but during the Civil War the by-then primitive mining equipment was destroyed by the South to prevent Union troops from making use of the old mill. While this ended an era in the history of Saltpeter Cave, the incident led to a new episode one that eventually would attract visitors from around the world. According to legend, Jesse and Frank James were among those sent to destroy the mining operation at Saltpeter Cave. While the enormous mouth of the cave was an unforgettable sight, there is no way of knowing what Jesse and Frank had in mind when they rode away after fulfilling their mission. The deeds of the James-Younger Gang during the turbulent days following the Civil War have been welldocumented, but Frank and Jesse soon became folk heroes. Locals claimed that Frank and Jesse stopped at nearly every spring and camped at nearly every farm in the area but of the many caves where the James Gang might have PHOTO: MISSOURI DIVISION OF TOURISM

3 holed up, only Meramec Caverns has laid claim to the fact that it was, indeed, a hideout for the infamous outlaws. The enormous opening made it possible to ride horses into the cave at a full gallop, then disappear into the darkness. The setting was ideal for escaping the long arm of the law. It was a claim that Lester Dill would eventually play to the hilt (as have many local entrepreneurs en route to the caverns, you ll pass the Jesse James Wax Museum). An intrepid cave explorer, Dill acquired the cave in 1933, and proceeded to make it the most famous show cave in the country. In the early years of Dill s ownership, the caverns were promoted as a cool alternative to oppressive summer heat remember, this was in a time before the advent of inexpensive air conditioning, and the caves remain a constant 60 F year-round. Lanterns and candles provided light for dancing on a wooden MotorHome, October 2005/125

4 floor to the music of professional musicians and for socializing around a bar. People came from far and wide to attend these unique events, and to see the fabled chamber, which is 100 feet in diameter and soars to 40 feet. News of the cave s popularity also attracted those who, along with Les Dill, enjoyed the adventure of cave exploration. Soon news of new chambers on four levels and discoveries of magnificent formations, undisturbed by man, spread throughout the area. Visitors risked climbing ladders and crossing primitive bridges to view these wondrous sights in the dim light. By then, Dill had improved the crude road that led to his attraction from Route 66, but he needed a parking lot, and money was scarce. Being a showman, Dill realized that he could park 200 vehicles inside the mouth of the cave, and soon he was promoting the world s only drive-in cave. The massive entrance where 126

5 horses could enter at full gallop, and that later accommodated 200 vehicles, is no longer visible. Built into the mouth of the cavern is a gift shop, restaurant and information center. From there, experienced rangers lead 90-minute guided tours through the cave s five accessible levels. The exquisite formations have been protected from the ravages that early cave explorers sometimes left behind. The gigantic front ballroom continues to be used as a meeting place, and with adjacent chambers can seat an audience of several thousand. Easily negotiated paths lead to awesome geologic formations. Onyx Mountain one of the world s largest stalagmites with a circumference of 500 feet and a height of 28 feet continues to grow, drip by drip. The Mirror River has reflective qualities that challenge the imagination, convincing viewers that it is many feet deep instead of only inches. Above a formation called the MotorHome, October 2005/127

6 Wine Table, supported by three legs, are clusters that resemble huge bunches of grapes that are unlike any other cave formation in the world. The final stop on the tour is the breathtaking Stage Curtain a vertical wall of monumental proportions, measuring 70 feet tall, 60 feet long and 35 feet deep which is comprised of stalactites, stalagmites, drapery, flowstone, columns and shelves of dripstone. While seated in terraced rows of chairs, visitors can enjoy a light and sound show that ends with a colorful image of the American flag on the curtain. It is truly an unforgettable experience. It took Mother Nature millions of years to create Meramec Caverns, but in just a few decades, Les Dill opened this one-of-a-kind, natural sculpture to millions of visitors. The third generation of the Dill family continues to welcome visitors through the cave s portals into another era, if not another world. 128

7 For More Information AMERICAN CAVE CONSERVATION ASSOCIATION (270) , CAVERN.ORG/ACCA/ACCAHOME.HTML. LURAY CAVERNS (540) , LURAYCAVERNS.COM. MARENGO CAVE PARK (888) , MARENGOCAVE.COM. MERAMEC CAVERNS (800) , AMERICASCAVE.COM. MISSOURI DIVISION OF TOURISM (800) , VISITMO.COM. CIRCLE 235 ON READER SERVICE CARD. MOANING CAVERN (209) , CAVERNTOURS.COM/MOCAVRT.HTM. NATIONAL CAVES ASSOCIATION (866) , CAVERN.COM. NATIONAL SPELEOLOGICAL SOCIETY (256) , CAVES.ORG. Coach Camping MERAMEC CAVERNS LAJOLLA NATURAL PARK (573) STANTON/MERAMEC KOA (573) , KOA.COM. Driving Directions MERAMEC CAVERNS IS LOCATED JUST OUTSIDE STANTON, ABOUT 50 MILES SOUTHWEST OF ST. LOUIS. FOLLOW INTERSTATE 44 WEST TO STANTON (EXIT 230); THE CAVE COMPLEX IS LOCATED THREE MILES FROM THE EXIT. MotorHome, October 2005/137

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