THE LONG JOURNEY HOME

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1 THE LONG JOURNEY HOME An English cyclist and his wife take on the ultimate cycling challenge to traverse the world BY DAN D AMBROSIO PHOTOS COURTESY OF SHELTERBOX Sharon and Tim Bridgman celebrating in front of the pyramids of Giza in Egypt, early in their global ride. Starting on May 31, 2012, in Nordkapp, Norway, and ending on July 16, 2016, in Prudhoe Bay, Alaska, Tim Bridgman rode his Thorn Nomad bicycle 36,279 miles around the world, spanning the lengths of Europe, Africa, South America, and North America. The ride connected North Cape, in Norway, to Cape Agulhas, in South Africa, to Ushuaia, in Argentina, to Prudhoe Bay. When Bridgman and his wife, Sharon, were planning the trip, Bridgman said he wanted to go the long way around, connecting four of the world s capes. We didn t know exactly how far it was, but we had a rough idea, Bridgman said. The couple also determined there would be roughly 1.5 million feet of climbing. The days leading up to the beginning of the trip brought some sleepless nights 26 ADVENTURE CYCLIST j u n e 2017

2 as Bridgman and his wife contemplated exactly what it was they had decided to do. The most worrying aspect of a trip like this is actually leaving home and setting out, Bridgman said. It s quite extreme. You re giving up your job, giving up your house, renting it out. You have financial worries. You re embarking on a trip that will take three-and-a-half years. You have no idea what you ll meet or see, how people will treat you, and of course you re saying goodbye to family and friends. For Sharon, the journey ended after 22,000 miles, on April 26, 2014, when she was struck and killed by a four-wheel drive vehicle on Bolivia s Altiplano, in an accident that can only be described as beyond improbable in one of the most remote corners of the planet. Bridgman, interviewed via Skype at his home in Devon, England, remembered the day his world collapsed. First he remembered how proud his wife was of what they had achieved, nearly 60 percent of the way around the world. Sharon was the strongest and happiest she had ever been, Bridgman said. That she had traveled so far under her own power was something of a miracle, considering that seven years earlier she was barely able to walk after she lost three discs in her back to a degenerative spine disease. It took Sharon seven months of hard work and physical therapy to be able to ride a bike again, but Bridgman said it was probably four years before his wife was back to almost normal. Bridgman credited Sharon s attitude for her recovery. It was amazing how many people would moan about everyday things, then see Sharon and say, I don t have the qualifications to moan because she s so positive about what she s doing, Bridgman said. She always had a smile on her face. She was always positive. It was that positive attitude that caught Bridgman off guard in 2011 when he casually mentioned to Sharon that one thing he had always wanted to do is cycle around the world. She looked at me and said, Let s do it, Bridgman remembered. Bridgman was taken aback, in a becareful-what-you-wish-for sort of way. Oh, fudge, you mean that, don t you? he remembered thinking. But now the game was on. Bridgman and his wife began planning a cycling trip in Vietnam as a test. HOW OUR LIFE WAS MEANT TO BE The couple had always put a high priority on traveling, if not on cycling. In 2000, they had spent a year traveling around Australia, where they met two English cyclists on tour in Alice Springs at the heart of the continent s Red Centre. At the time we thought, Wow, that s incredible, Bridgman remembered. We weren t particularly big cyclists. We would ride to the pub and things like that, but cycling was not a huge interest of ours. Traveling was. When they arrived in Vietnam over the 2011 Christmas holiday for their test tour, the plan was to ride the length of the country. Sharon caught bronchitis and was still having problems with her back. She was having terrible coughing fits. What are we doing? Bridgman thought to himself. At a local doctor s office, Sharon was told they couldn t do the trip because she was too ill. Sharon looked at him and said, Yes, we are, Bridgman said. Sharon rested for 24 hours. Bridgman built their bikes in a hotel room, and the couple began their ride. The moment we left, the clouds lifted and we set off into the sunshine, Bridgman said. We never looked back. I knew it was how our life was meant to be. Five months later, Bridgman and his wife were in Nordkapp, Norway, ready to embark on the biggest adventure of their lives. HYENAS AND ROCK-THROWING CHILDREN In Africa the couple faced hyenas in northern Kenya and stone-throwing children in Ethiopia. Twenty miles into Kenya, Bridgman got a puncture and realized the eggs he had bought from a market and put in his handlebar bag had all broken. Everything was covered in eggs. The couple decided to stop and camp and clean up the mess before cooking dinner. That s when we heard the hyenas coming, Bridgman remembered. Hurrying through their meal, Bridgman and his wife got into their tent. The hyenas were calling to each other in what Bridgman described as a horrible laugh. There were probably half a dozen, Bridgman said. They were within about 15 or 20 meters of the tent. This was dusk. The couple began calling out, and they could hear the hyenas walking off. Eventually they disappeared, Bridgman said. Because we were in a tent, they couldn t associate what a tent was. Several years and thousands of miles How to get the Perfect Bike Start by asking the right questions: Where to get the Perfect Bike engineer, fellow cyclist What are your cycling dreams? From club rides to global treks. What are your fit and feel parameters? Factor-in rider s proportions. Every cyclist is unique. What are your material preferences? Steel, stainless steel with finish and components of your choosing. Call me, we ll talk about your bike ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 27

3 later, Bridgman would learn that the bears of Alaska have no problem figuring out what a tent is. The biggest takeaway from Africa for Bridgman was not roving wild animals or stone-throwing children, however. He understands how Africa is viewed by much of the world. When you think about what sort of news do you hear, it s always bad news, Bridgman said. They never say anything good about anything. When stories are reported, it s about tragedies, disaster, violence, and genocides. But if you go to Africa, Bridgman said, you ll learn that it is an amazing, diverse place, and that many people are happy, despite what most would see as poverty. What is the definition of poverty? Bridgman asked. If you re the richest person in the world, do you have everything? We stayed in communities that had nothing, yet they had the whole family network. They helped each other. They played games. They sat and chatted in the evening. They worked in the fields together. On the road near the bottom of the world in southern Argentina. Bridgman came to believe that the subsistence farmers they met in Africa had already achieved what Westerners strive for in reaching retirement to sit back and relax and have time for friends and family. If they re subsistence farming, they ve pretty much retired straightaway, Bridgman said. Do they need xboxes, mobile phones, and TVs? They probably don t, and neither do we. We think possessions make us happy when the most 28 ADVENTURE CYCLIST j u n e 2017

4 amazing times are spent with family and friends. They re probably richer than we are. TOUGHER THAN AFRICA Because of its incredible remoteness, Bridgman found South America to be even more challenging than Africa. He and his wife were using a website called andesbybike.com to get an idea of the terrain they would be facing ahead. Andes by Bike was amazing it helped us massively, Bridgman said. We knew what we were dealing with. We had already crossed several passes in a safer way of traveling rather than going in blind. Parts of South America are so remote that without information like what was available on the Andes by Bike website, it can be dangerous, Bridgman said. Cyclists could find themselves in trouble with no help in sight. There are more dirt roads and more altitude than in Africa, he said. In Africa there are people and food everywhere. That fateful day in Bolivia, Bridgman and his wife stopped at a place called Villa Mar for lunch before continuing along the Altiplano. A settlement of fewer than 500 people, Villa Mar sits at just over 12,000 feet above sea level. Dinner consisted of llama and chips. One of the advantages Bridgman felt he and his wife had during their journey was their decision to camp wherever the mood struck them. It gave them a great deal of flexibility and relieved them of the anxiety of trying to find accommodations. We didn t have to reach a town, find a hotel, or look for prices, he said. Bridgman said they were always careful to make sure no one saw them when they left the road to find a campsite. Nevertheless, once after camping in a clay pit in Turkey, they saw a set of footprints leading up to their tent the next morning. They had heard something the night before, but when Bridgman unzipped the tent to look around, he saw nothing. Now, on the moonscape of Bolivia s high plateau after leaving Villa Mar, Bridgman was riding about 200 yards ahead of his wife on a road that had been freshly scraped from the Altiplano s ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 29

5 gravelly surface. Roads wear out so quickly on the Altiplano that the Bolivians simply bulldoze new ones periodically. This day Bridgman and his wife had three roads to choose from. They chose the one on the right. Going along a straight, I was slightly in front, Bridgman remembered. The next thing, I looked back and saw a car stopped. Vehicles often stopped. Bridgman was on a slight incline. He decided to wait for Sharon at the top of the hill. The next thing, another four-wheeldrive came beside me, an English couple, Bridgman said. They asked, Are you with anyone? Yes, my wife, I said, why? She s been hit by a car, you have to go back. The couple told Bridgman to get in the car. He declined and said he would ride back. When I got back and saw Sharon in the road, I saw that she was gone, he said. All of a sudden, your life can be so perfect and just everything turns upside down. Your life is changed. Yeah, everything we dreamt of was gone. HIT WITH A SLEDGEHAMMER For the next nine hours, Bridgman lay with his wife on the road. That s how long it took the authorities to arrive after the English couple who had delivered the terrible news finally got a phone signal after an hour of driving around. The driver who hit Bridgman s wife was a Bolivian national. He was arrested. Bridgman never spoke to him. Bridgman was taken to Uyuni, a larger town on the edge of the Uyuni salt flats, the largest in Sharon Bridgman on a salt flat in Bolivia, not far from where she was struck by a vehicle and killed. 30 ADVENTURE CYCLIST j u n e 2017

6 the world. When I arrived in Uyuni, I asked where my wife was, Bridgman said. They said, In the morgue. It was like being hit with a sledgehammer. You just can t believe it. The following days were a blur for Bridgman. I had become a puppet, he remembered. Basically I was being herded from one place to another. It just didn t feel real. Bridgman made the calls home to his family and Sharon s family, a task he said he wouldn t wish on my worst enemy. He and his wife had actually booked a flight home to attend the wedding of his best man. They were headed to Lima, Peru, to fly out and return after a week. The next thing, I m on a flight without my wife next to me, he said. After two years of being away, the last thing Bridgman expected to be doing was going home to see the friends and family he loved, yet with the burden of a horrible tragedy weighing down on all of them. One minute, I was in Bolivia with Sharon, living our dream. The next minute, I was standing in a graveyard, saying goodbye to my wife, Bridgman said. NO CHOICE BUT TO FINISH Bridgman spent 10 months back in England, all the time knowing he would return to Bolivia to finish the journey he and Sharon had begun. I think it really wasn t a choice, he said. After spending such an incredible time on the road, having different experiences every day in different environments, from hot deserts to cold plateaus, had become our normal. Home didn t feel normal anymore. I knew the only way I could get around this was by going back and coming to terms with the fact she wasn t there. Bridgman returned to the spot where Sharon had been killed and found a makeshift memorial. Some thought had gone into the monument, Bridgman said. It was made of clay blocks with candles and prayers. It was really touching, the fact that she hadn t been forgotten, he said. Someone had gone out there to do it. I don t know who did it. ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 31

7 Bridgman carried with him a box of letters to Sharon written by the friends and family who loved her. He left the letters, unopened, near the monument. I didn t want to read them, Bridgman said. They weren t for me. Next to the road, Bridgman found bits of Sharon s bike. It was hard just to see that, he said. It felt like I hadn t been away. It was like I was in the same place at the same time, yet she was gone. It was like time had stood still. When Sharon was killed, not a single car passed during the nine hours Bridgman lay with her on the road. On his return, a Chilean family who had befriended the couple camped with him at the place where Sharon died. From the moment the five of them set up camp to the moment they left the next morning, only two vehicles passed by, Bridgman said. That s how remote this spot was. It felt wrong. How could Sharon have been hit by a car there? And yet, that evening, you look up and see the same stars, you look out and feel the same cold wind that blows, he said. The Earth keeps moving, whatever happens on it. It just keeps going. A SWIM IN THE ARCTIC OCEAN It wasn t easy to start riding again. It took some time for Tim Bridgman celebrating the completion of his ride on the shores of the Arctic Ocean. CONTINUED ON PAGE ADVENTURE CYCLIST j u n e 2017

8 Market Place continued CONTINUED FROM PAGE 32 D AMBROSIO: LONG JOURNEY HOME Bridgman to get used to his own company and feel comfortable riding on his own. Friends joined him periodically. That helped, as did the people along the way. The Mexicans were incredible people, very generous and open, Bridgman said. In Los Angeles, by contrast, Bridgman was assumed to be homeless. I ve got a big beard at this point, he remembered. When I approached people to ask about where to camp, no one wants to help you. As a rule, Bridgman found the road a friendlier place the farther he was removed from large centers of population. A good friend said it was the cities where you feel lonely, he said. That was true. Once he returned to the wilderness of Canada and Alaska, Bridgman was back in his element. He was also plagued by swarms of mosquitos and haunted by the possibility of a close encounter with grizzlies. People were few and far between, but the ones he met, whether fellow travelers or oil field workers, were inevitably friendly, sharing a sandwich or helping with the logistics of getting through such a remote and challenging landscape. Once he reached the end, Bridgman dipped not only a tire in the Arctic Ocean, but he also took a quick swim. The water was warmer than he expected it to be. He was met by two friends who flew in for the occasion and shared in the champagne he had in his water bottle. Although the end was so hard in so many ways, it was a huge weight off of me, knowing I had done it, Bridgman wrote in his long-running blog. So many people had been behind me, willing me on. I had completed a journey that we had set out to do, and although it was so hard knowing Sharon wasn t there, I felt I could now start something new. Dan D Ambrosio is a contributing writer for Adventure Cyclist magazine. CONTINUED FROM PAGE 06 SAYER: DIRECTOR S LETTER talked about all that Mike had done for the organization (and we ll reflect on this more in the July issue) and how precious life and relationships really are. It helped me appreciate the extraordinary time I was spending with Lucy and how my job is all about helping people get the most out of life through the power of bicycle travel. During our 12 years working together (out of his 24 with the organization), Mike told me several times how lucky he considered himself to have found Missoula, Adventure Cycling, and the job-of-a lifetime as our editor and Design and Media leader. I just want you to know how lucky we all were to have him as a friend, colleague, and talented guide who brought us thousands of inspiring stories through the magazine, website, and more. Salute, Michael Deme! We will miss you and all you brought to our world. Jim Sayer Executive Director jsayer@adventurecycling.org 48 ADVENTURE CYCLIST j u n e 2017

and led Jimmy to the prison office. There Jimmy was given an important He had been sent to prison to stay for four years.

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