Contents. Africa Highlights 4. Destination Africa 13. Getting Started 15. Itineraries 19. History 27. The Culture 33. African Music 43.

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1 Lonely Planet Contents 9 Africa Highlights 4 Destination Africa 13 Getting Started 15 Itineraries 19 History 27 The Culture 33 African Music 43 Environment 47 Responsible Travel 54 Africa s Wildlife 55 Africa & Development 62 North Africa 67 Algeria 68 Algiers 72 Northern Algeria 76 Central Algeria 76 Southern Algeria 76 Algeria Directory 77 Transport in Algeria 79 Egypt 82 Cairo 86 Around Cairo 97 Sinai 97 Suez Canal 101 Red Sea Coast 102 Alexandria 103 Western Desert 107 Nile Valley 110 Egypt Directory 119 Transport in Egypt 122 Libya 125 Tripoli 130 Northern Libya 133 Northwest Libya 135 Southern Libya 136 Libya Directory 137 Transport in Libya 140 Morocco 142 Mediterranean Coast & the Rif 147 The Atlantic Coast 156 Western Sahara 168 Imperial Cities & the Middle Atlas 169 Central Morocco & the High Atlas 177 Morocco Directory 189 Transport in Morocco 193 Sudan 195 Khartoum 200 Around Khartoum 204 Northern Sudan 204 Eastern Sudan 206 South of Khartoum 207 Sudan Directory 208 Transport in Sudan 211 Tunisia 213 Tunis 218 Northern Tunisia 223 Central Tunisia 225 Southern Tunisia 233 Tunisia Directory 239 Transport in Tunisia 241

2 10 CONTENTS West Africa 243 Benin 244 Cotonou 247 Around Cotonou 252 The South 252 The North 255 Benin Directory 257 Transport in Benin 259 Burkina Faso 262 Ouagadougou 266 The Southwest 269 The Sahel 273 Burkina Faso Directory 274 Transport in Burkina Faso 275 Cameroon 277 Yaoundé 282 Western Cameroon 285 Southern Cameroon 294 Northern Cameroon 296 Eastern Cameroon 301 Cameroon Directory 301 Transport in Cameroon 303 Côte d Ivoire 305 Abidjan 309 The Eastern Beaches 311 The West Coast 312 The Centre 313 The North 314 Côte d Ivoire Directory 315 Transport in Côte d Ivoire 316 The Gambia 318 Banjul 321 Serekunda & the Atlantic Coast 324 Western Gambia 330 Lower Gambia River 331 Upper Gambia River 331 The Gambia Directory 332 Transport in the Gambia 334 Ghana 335 Accra 341 The Coast 347 The Centre 350 The North 354 The East 355 Ghana Directory 356 Transport in Ghana 358 Guinea 361 Conakry 365 Western Guinea 369 Fouta Djalon 371 Southern Guinea 372 Guinea Directory 373 Transport in Guinea 374 Guinea-Bissau 376 Bissau 379 Arquipélago dos Bijagós 381 The Northwest 383 The Northeast 383 The South 384 Guinea-Bissau Directory 384 Transport in Guinea-Bissau 386 Liberia 387 Monrovia 391 The Coast 392 The Interior 392 Liberia Directory 393 Transport in Liberia 394 Mali 396 Bamako 401 The Centre 407 Dogon Country 412 The North & East 416 The South 421 The West 421 Mali Directory 422 Transport in Mali 425 Mauritania 427 Nouakchott 431 The Atlantic Coast 434 The Adrar 435 The Road To Mali 437 Mauritania Directory 438 Transport in Mauritania 440 Niger 442 Niamey 446 Around Niamey 450 Southwest Niger 451 Southeast Niger 452 Northern Niger 454 Niger Directory 456 Transport in Niger 458 Nigeria 460 Lagos 464 Southern Nigeria 469 Northern Nigeria 471 Nigeria Directory 476 Transport in Nigeria 478 Senegal 480 Dakar 484 Around Dakar 491 Petite Côte & Siné-Saloum Delta 492 Northern Senegal 493 Central Senegal 496 Casamance 497 Senegal Directory 502 Transport in Senegal 503 Sierra Leone 505 Freetown 509 Around Freetown 513 The North 515 The South 515 Sierra Leone Directory 516 Transport in Sierra Leone 518 Togo 520 Lomé 524 Around Lomé 528 The South 528 The North 530 Togo Directory 533 Transport in Togo 535 Central Africa 537 Central African Republic 538 Bangui 543 Around Bangui 545 Dzanga-Sangha Reserve 546 CAR Directory 547 Transport in CAR 548

3 CONTENTS 11 Chad 550 N Djaména 554 Around N Djaména 558 South of N Djaména 558 North of N Djaména 559 Chad Directory 560 Transport in Chad 562 Congo 563 Brazzaville 566 Around Brazzaville 570 The Coast 570 The North 571 Congo Directory 572 Transport in Congo 573 Democratic Republic of Congo 575 Kinshasa 579 Around Kinshasa 584 Bas-Congo 584 Eastern DRC 585 DRC Directory 587 Transport in DRC 589 Equatorial Guinea 592 Malabo 595 Bioko Island 599 Rio Muni 599 Equatorial Guinea Directory 601 Transport in Equatorial Guinea 603 Gabon 604 Libreville 608 Around Libreville 613 Northern Gabon 614 Southern Gabon 614 Eastern Gabon 617 Gabon Directory 618 Transport in Gabon 619 São Tomé & Príncipe 621 São Tomé Town 624 Around São Tomé 628 Príncipe 630 São Tomé & Príncipe Directory 631 Transport in São Tomé & Príncipe 632 East Africa 633 Burundi 634 Bujumbura 637 Around Bujumbura 639 Burundi Directory 640 Transport in Burundi 641 Djibouti 643 Djibouti City 647 Around Djibouti 652 Djibouti Directory 654 Transport in Djibouti 656 Eritrea 658 Asmara 663 Northern Eritrea 668 Southern Eritrea 668 Red Sea Coast 669 Dankalia 670 Western Eritrea 671 Eritrea Directory 671 Transport in Eritrea 673 Ethiopia 675 Addis Ababa 681 Northern Ethiopia 687 Eastern Ethiopia 693 Southern Ethiopia 695 Ethiopia Directory 696 Transport in Ethiopia 698 Kenya 700 Nairobi 707 The Rift Valley 714 Central Kenya 715 Northern Kenya 717 Western Kenya 718 The Coast 721 Southern Kenya 730 Kenya Directory 733 Transport in Kenya 737 Rwanda 741 Kigali 745 Northwestern Rwanda 749 Southwestern Rwanda 752 Rwanda Directory 753 Transport in Rwanda 755 Somaliland, Puntland & Somalia 757 Somaliland 760 Around Somaliland 763 Somaliland Directory 765 Somaliland Transport 766 Puntland 767 Somalia 767 Tanzania 768 Dar es Salaam 773 Around Dar es Salaam 778 Zanzibar Archipelago 778 Northeastern Tanzania 786 Northern Tanzania 787 Central Tanzania & Victoria 799 Tanganyika 802 Southern Highlands 803 Southeastern Tanzania 805 Tanzania Directory 805 Transport in Tanzania 809 Uganda 816 Kampala 821 Around Kampala 827 Eastern Uganda 828 Southwestern Uganda 831 Northern Uganda 840 Uganda Directory 844 Transport in Uganda 846 Southern Africa 849 Angola 850 Luanda 854 Coastal Angola 858 Southern Angola 860 Angola Directory 861 Transport in Angola 863 Botswana 865 Gaborone 870 Around Gaborone 875 Northern Botswana 875 Eastern Botswana 885 Botswana Directory 886 Transport in Botswana 888

4 12 CONTENTS Lesotho 890 Maseru 894 Around Maseru 897 Southern Lesotho 897 Eastern Lesotho 898 Northern Lesotho 900 Lesotho Directory 900 Transport in Lesotho 902 Madagascar 903 Antananarivo 909 Central Highlands 916 Southern Madagascar 919 Eastern Madagascar 922 Madagascar Directory 927 Transport in Madagascar 931 Malawi 935 Lilongwe 939 Northern Malawi 943 Southern Malawi 948 Malawi Directory 956 Transport in Malawi 957 Mozambique 961 Maputo 965 The Southern Coast 970 Central Mozambique 972 Northern Mozambique 974 Mozambique Directory 977 Transport in Mozambique 979 Namibia 982 Windhoek 987 Central Namibia 992 Northwestern Namibia 996 Northeastern Namibia 1003 Southern Namibia 1005 Namibia Directory 1009 Transport in Namibia 1011 South Africa 1014 Cape Town 1021 Around Cape Town 1031 The Garden Route 1032 Sunshine Coast 1034 Wild Coast 1036 KwaZulu-Natal 1037 The Drakensberg 1044 Mpumalanga 1046 Gauteng 1048 Free State 1058 Northern Cape 1059 South Africa Directory 1061 Transport in South Africa 1064 Swaziland 1068 Mbabane 1072 Around Swaziland 1074 Swaziland Directory 1078 Transport in Swaziland 1080 Zambia 1082 Lusaka 1086 Eastern Zambia 1091 Northern Zambia 1093 The Copperbelt 1094 Southeastern Zambia 1095 Southwestern Zambia 1096 Zambia Directory 1099 Transport in Zambia 1102 Zimbabwe 1105 Harare 1110 Around Harare 1116 Northern Zimbabwe 1117 Eastern Highlands 1119 The Midlands & Southeastern Zimbabwe 1120 Western Zimbabwe 1121 Zimbabwe Directory 1127 Transport in Zimbabwe 1130 Africa Directory 1132 Transport in Africa 1151 Health 1164 Language 1174 The Authors 1186 Behind the Scenes 1192 Index 1196 GreenDex 1212 Legend 1216

5 AZORES (Portugal) 20ºW N O R T H A T L A N T I C O C E A N 40ºN P O R T U G A L 10ºW S P A I N 50ºN 0º F R A N C E U K R A I N E GERMANY AUSTRIA HUNGARY ROMANIA CROATIA I T A L Y B L A C K S E A SERBIA BULGARIA 10ºE ALBANIA GREECE 30ºE R U S S I A GEORGIA ARMENIA T U R K E Y A R A L S E A C A S P I A N S E A TURKMENISTAN AZERBAIJAN KAZAKHSTAN 20ºN 30ºN MADEIRA (Portugal) Laayoune Tropic of Cancer CANARY ISLANDS (Spain) M O R O C C O Tangier Ceuta (Spain) RABAT Fez Melilla Casablanca (Spain) Meknès Marrakesh DOGON COUNTRY, MALI (p412) Trek down the escarpment and into an utterly timeless world ALGIERS Oran In Salah A L G E R I A Constantine Annaba MARRAKESH, MOROCCO (p177) Immerse yourself in Morocco at its most clamorous and exotic Assekrem Tamanrasset Gafsa Bizerte Gabes TUNISIA TUNIS Sousse Sfax TRIPOLI Sebha 20ºE M E D I T E R R A N E A N S E A L I B Y A Benghazi ASSEKREM, ALGERIA (p77) Watch the sun rise and set, deep in the Sahara Alexandria CAIRO E G Y P T Nile Nasser Port Said Suez Luxor Aswan Wadi Halfa S Y R I A LEBANON ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES JORDAN R E D S E A I R A Q LUXOR, EGYPT (p110) Discover Luxor s temples and tombs close to the banks of the Nile KUWAIT S A U D I A R A B I A I R A N T h e G u l f NOUAKCHOTT SIERRA LEONE (p505) Visit Africa's most surprising Timbuktu Aïr Mountains country with its primate populations (Tomboctou) St Louis and deserted palm-fringed beaches Agadez DAKAR N I G E R SENEGAL Kayes M A L I THE GAMBIA Djenné NIAMEY BANJUL BAMAKO Ségou BURKINA Zinder GUINEA- FASO BISSAU BISSAU OUAGADOUGOU Kano GUINEA Kankan BENIN CONAKRY N I G E R I A SIERRA Volta CÔTE TOGO FREETOWN LEONE ABUJA D'IVOIRE GHANA Ibadan YAMOUSSOUKRO Kumasi PORTO LIBERIA LÓMÉ NOVO MONROVIA Lagos Enugu 10ºN M A U R I T A N I A Niger Desert Ténéré Chad C H A D N'DJAMÉNA Abeché CENTRAL AFRICAN REPUBLIC Nyala S U D A N KHARTOUM Wau Blue Malakal White Nile Port Sudan Nile ASMARA ERITREA Gonder 40ºE LALIBELA, ETHIOPIA (p692) Explore the rock-hewn churches and spiritual atmosphere of medieval Ethiopia frozen in stone Y E M E N 50ºE G u l f o f A d e n DJIBOUTI DJIBOUTI Lalibela CITY Tana Berbera Hargeisa ADDIS SOMALIA ABABA Dire Dawa E T H I O P I A

6 0º 10ºS 20ºS Equator ASCENSION (UK) Tropic of Capricorn 30ºS Abidjan Sekondi- Takoradi RING ROAD, CAMEROON (p293) Explore the Africa of your imagination with traditional mountain kingdoms G u l f o f G u i n e a S O U T H A T L A N T I C O C E A N ST HELENA (UK) ELEVATION 5000m 4000m 3000m 2000m 1000m 0m ACCRA Port Harcourt MALABO SÃO TOMÉ & PRÍNCIPE EQUATORIAL GUINEA SÃO TOMÉ LOANGO NATIONAL PARK, GABON (p615) Join elephants on the beach and watch hippos surfing VICTORIA FALLS, ZAMBIA (p1098)/ ZIMBABWE (p1124) Get your thrills with a visit to 'The Smoke that Thunders' OKAVANGO DELTA, BOTSWANA (p875) Glide past elephants and hippos in a traditional dugout canoe LEGEND NP National Park NR National Reserve km miles Douala BANGUI BWINDI IMPENETRABLE YAOUNDÉ NATIONAL PARK, UGANDA (p836) UGANDA Turkana MOGADISHU CAMEROON Take to the jungle to commune with some of Africa's last mountain gorillas KAMPALA K E N Y A SERENGETI NATIONAL PARK, C O N G O Masai TANZANIA (p798) LIBREVILLE Kisangani Mara Marvel at migrating wildebeest Mbandaka NAIROBI G A B O N NR and more mega fauna than you RWANDA Victoria imagined possible Loango NP D E M O C R A T I C KIGALI Serengeti R E P U B L I C NP Mt Kilimanjaro BURUNDI Mombasa BUJUMBURA (5895m) BRAZZAVILLE O F C O N G O RÉSERVE SPÉCIAL KINSHASA DE L'ANALAMAZAOTRA, CABINDA DODOMA MADAGASCAR (p923) (Angola) Dar es Salaam Zanzibar Take a walk in the rainforest with lemurs and indris Tanganyika LUANDA Walvis Bay Congo Huambo A N G O L A N A M I B I A WINDHOEK Orange Cape Town Cape of Good Hope Zambezi Kimberley Lubumbashi Ndola Z A M B I A LUSAKA Kariba B O T S W A N A Bloemfontein Limpopo Port Elizabeth HARARE MASERU LILONGWE Z I M B A B W E Bulawayo LESOTHO S O U T H A F R I C A East London MALAWI Durban T A N Z A N I A Zambezi Malawi M O Z A M B I Q U E Nampula Blantyre Beira GABORONE PRETORIA MAPUTO Johannesburg MBABANE SWAZILAND M o z a m b i q u e C h a n n e l COMOROS I N D I A N O C E A N CAPE TOWN, SOUTH AFRICA (p1021) Enjoy the stunning setting of one of Africa s most happening cities SEYCHELLES MAYOTTE (France) M A D A G A S C A R Tropic of Capricorn MOZAMBIQUE ISLAND, MOZAMBIQUE (p974) Wander the cobbled streets in search of colonial-era architecture and magical time-warp atmosphere 20ºW 10ºW 0º 10ºE 20ºE 30ºE 40ºE 50ºE

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