Ladakh Changtang and Tsomoriri

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1 TRIP DOSSIER INDIA Atmospheric and mysterious Tsomoriri Lake Trek in the land of nomads and kiang Visit Hemis, Shey and Thiksey Monasteries Guided Group & Private Departures Walking Grade: C Demanding Trip Code: TLAD For dates and prices visit Date of issue: 12 Jan 2015

2 2 Introduction Ladakh is often referred to as the Jewel in India s Crown, as well as Little Tibet, an arid landscape of high plateaux and mountains, where Tantric Buddhism still exists undisturbed. This is a spectacular, rugged and unearthly land where people can only exist on slender strips of greenery that cling to the glacier fed rivers. Here the Indus Valley is divided from Tibet, Kashmir and Himachal Pradesh by rock and ice. Even today, Ladakh is effectively cut-off from the outside world during winter and this geographical isolation has preserved a culture and way of life that is almost medieval. To visit Ladakh remains a privilege. Ladakh is very special and so is this trek, which takes you to the rarely trekked and remote Changtang plateau. A spectacular flight takes you over the Indian Himalaya to Leh, the capital of Ladakh. After essential acclimatisation during which you ll visit the most famous Buddhist monasteries in the area it s time to head out on trek across the wilds of the Changtang plateau. During the brief summer months nomadic herdsmen move up to this rarely trekked area and it is by and large their trails that you ll follow. Dotted within this land of the snow leopard are a few impossibly deep turquoise coloured lakes, and kiang (wild ass) can also be found up here. Crossing a series of high passes you reach the village of Korzok (one of the world s highest), by the high altitude lake of Tsomoriri, now a protected wetland wildlife reserve before returning by road to Leh and another incredible flight across the Himalayas to Delhi. There s also the option of extending your time in India to visit the iconic Taj Mahal. Group Departures & Private-Guided Departures This tour offers small group departures for walkers whether travelling solo, with family and friends a sociable way to explore the world on foot. Alternatively for two or more walkers if you are unable to travel on the set group departure dates or prefer a more individual experience we can arrange a privately guided departure; with your own guide and porters. All you need to do is to choose the best dates and enjoy the journey. Your holiday Life on trek After essential acclimatisation in Leh you head out on trek. Mornings will usually start early with a hot brew and breakfast at camp, whilst your main baggage is loaded onto mules and camp broken down. As a general rule you ll then trek for 3-4hrs and then stop en route for a picnic lunch before trekking for a further 3-4hrs to the next camp. Dinners on trek will be taken at camp. Walking conditions For the majority of the trek you ll be following trails used by the nomadic herdsmen whom move up onto the Changtang in summer to graze their herds. Conditions underfoot will tend to be stony. Usually it will be dry and dusty, unless it has rained or snowed (which can rarely also happen in summer time at high altitude). A series of high passes are crossed and thus ascent and descent is a natural feature of this holiday and although gradual the altitude (up to 5500m) will certainly be a factor in adding to the challenge of the trek. You will only have to carry your daypack, as your main luggage will be transported pack animals each day. A full explanation of the trip grading can be found in our brochure or online at You should ensure you are comfortable walking at this level of grading and are physically prepared for the trip.

3 3 Detailed itinerary Day 1 Depart UK Depart UK Day 2 Rendezvous at group hotel Arrive Delhi International Airport. Rendezvous at the group hotel close to Delhi Airport in time for the group pre-trek meeting scheduled to begin at 2000hrs. Hotel check in time in India is strictly from noon onwards. (See How to join and depart this trip section later in this Trip Dossier.) Hotel Day 3 Group transfer to Airport. Fly to Leh In the early morning there s a group transfer to Delhi Airport. It s then a short (1hr) but incredibly spectacular flight over the Indian Himalayas to Leh. It s then a short transfer from the airport outside of Leh to the group accommodation. As Leh is at altitude of 3500m the altitude needs to be respected and thus the remainder of today is for acclimatizing and taking it easy. Day 4 Explore Leh and acclimatise It does take a couple of days to acclimatize and thus today is also an acclimatization day too with a bit of sightseeing around the Ladakhi capital. Leh is a fascinating place and in the morning you can visit the bustling bazaar. In the afternoon you ll be driven to Tsemo to see the dramatically located monastery and from there you can walk down Samkhar. Visit the modern Shanti Stupa and enjoy incredible view over Leh across the Indus Valley. Following this, you have the option to walk back to the guesthouse or be driven. Day 5 Visit Hemis, Shey and Thiske Monasteries Another day of acclimatization before heading out on trek is spent visiting by private vehicle the most important, classic larger monasteries, namely those of Shey, Hemis and Thiksey. Not only are all of these monasteries wonderful examples of Buddhist monastic architecture, with ornate features, they are all located amongst stunning landscapes with spectacular views. Walking duration: 1 hour Day 6 Drive to Hemis, hike to Gotsang old hermitage To continue to acclimatise, today we drive around 1.5 hours to Hemis. From here you will enjoy the first of many scenic hikes as you head above Hemis monastery to Gotsang. Afterwards we will drive to our camp in Khaspang (a hermitage for monks) for the evening for a further night of acclimatisation at a higher altitude. Walking duration: 2-3hrs Day 7 Hike to Chemde. Drive to Rumste Now better used to the altitude, we continue to the trailhead at the Ladakhi village of Rumste for an acclimatisation hike. It s certainly a spectacular journey initially following the course of the Indus before turning onto a road that ultimately crosses the Himalaya, the famous Leh to Manali highway. Camp tonight is on the outskirts of this traditional village at an altitude of around 4250m. Walking duration: 2-3hrs Day 8 Short trek to Kyamar It s now time to begin trekking. Although now better acclimatized from now on the trekking will be above 4000m, and mostly between 4500m and 5000m, with some passes to cross higher than that. It will certainly feel reasonably challenging going at these heights, although if it were at low-level, it would all feel rather moderate when it comes to the height gains. Today is quite a short walk, which will again help with the ongoing acclimatization. The terrain is quite level for the most part as you pass through grazing land, with the odd river crossing to reach camp beneath the Kyamar La. Altitude at camp approx. 4500m. Ascent: 468m / Descent: 451m Walking duration: 4hrs / 12.2kms

4 4 Day 9 Over the Kumur La to Tisaling Leaving camp it takes around 2hrs to ascend to the first pass on this journey the 4800m Kyamar La. Keep an eye out for the Blue Sheep. The most elusive Snow Leopard has also been seen in this area, although a group of trekkers together ensures you certainly won t see one. All the same, it s good to know they are still out there. From the pass there are fine views towards Zanskar and across the Changtang. Down follows up as you head towards the base of the Mandalchan La. This is a good place to rest, and you may also encounter nomadic herdsmen grazing their sheep, goats and yaks. The crossing of the Mandalchan La (approx 5200m) is actually a little easier than the Kyamar La, and it takes around an hour of steady but constant climbing to reach the prayer flag covered pass itself. What goes up comes down and so it s now down to camp in an area of pasture some 250m lower known as Tisaling. Ascent: 890m / Descent: 451m Walking duration: 7 hrs /12.5km Day 10 Across the Shibuk La to Pongunagu First up is the crossing of the Shingbuk La (5020m) from where there sweeping views of the surrounding mountains. In the distance the deep turquoise blue waters of Tsokar should be visible. It is now towards this lake you are heading towards camp, which is around 4hrs away in the Tsokar basin an area known for its small herds of kiang (wild ass). Ascent: 444m / Descent 884m Walking duration: 7 hrs / 15.2km Day 11 Pass Tsokar "White Lake" to the wilds of Nuruchan In comparison to the last two days, today is relatively easy. Following a dusty jeep road towards Tsokar Lake presents very straightforward walking. Tsokar means white lake, so called because of the salt depsits that encrust the shoreline. Up until recently the Changpa nomads harvested the salt here and traded it throughout Ladakh. As you walk past the lake you may notice several species of migratory birds including blacknecked cranes and Brahminy ducks. Taking a trail to the right of the lake you now head into a barren landscape to reach the nomadic winter settlement of Nuruchan (approx. 4300m) and tonight s camp. Ascent: 348m / Descent 142m Walking duration: 6hrs / 22.4km Day 12 Challenging passes to Gyamar Barma An early start with an icy cold crossing of a stream by Nuruchan to wake you up. A gradual ascent then leads to the Horlam Kongka La (5000m), which affords fine views back to Tsokar. An easy descent of around 40mins leads to Rajung Karu where it is likely you ll encounter several nomadic families of western Tibetan origin. No doubt tending their flocks of sheep, pashmina goats and the odd yak, these hardy people fled Tibet when the Chinese invaded, although may lost their lives in the process enduring numerous hardships. To the handful of passing trekkers they are certainly friendly and welcoming and so it is possible to spend some time with them to observe their preserved way of life. However, there is still the matter of another pass to cross and this one, the Kyamayura La at 5410m is quite challenging. However, the strenuous efforts required should be rewarded with magnificent views. A gradual descent leads into a valley where tonight s camp will have been struck at 5150m. This high-altitude camp is probably the coldest night of trek, but it is also an amazing place. Ascent: 769m / Descent: 383m Walking duration: 8hrs/ 14.2km Day 13 Trek to the green valley of Gyamar After yesterday s exertions you ll probably be relieved that today s walk is quite short in comparison. It s a slow ascent to the Kartse La (5300m), followed by a gradual descent to the lush, green valley of Gyamar where you can rest and relax at camp (5100m). Walking time approx. 3hrs. Ascent: 270m / Descent: 362m Walking duration: 3hrs / 9.5km

5 5 Day 14 Into the land of the Korzok and Tsomoriri The biggest remains, the Yalung Nyaulung La, which at 5450m is literally the high point of the trek. Needless to say it s quite a push to the pass, but upon reaching it you should be able to see your final destination, the shimmering sapphire blue waters of Tsomoriri. Amongst this desolate, brown landscape Tsomoriri will appear like a shining jewel. Legend has it that Tsomoriri became so called as a woman (possibly a chomo-nun) riding upon a yak mysteriously ended up in the lake. As the yak couldn t swim and started sinking, the woman kept crying out ri, ri an exclamation of fear. Lake is of course Tso, hence Tsomoriri, the lake of fear. A steep descent of just over 2hrs leads to Korzok Phu, a summer pasture. From here the terrain becomes more gradual as you head to your final destination, the village of Korzok. At 4572m this reputed to be one of the highest permanently inhabited villages in the world. Korzok, with its 500 year old monastery lies on the main trading route between Spiti and Ladakh and many an intrepid explorer has passed by this way. Tsomoriri itself, as well as being one of the largest high-altitude lakes of Ladakh is now an important and protected area for wildlife. Ascent: 443m / Descent: 1050m Walking duration: 7hrs / 16.3km Day 15 Drive to Leh via Rupshu It s around 7hrs to return to Leh by private vehicle, but an interesting journey all the same through dramatic landscapes. It s a bumpy journey at first as you drive across the northern part of the Changtang and cross the Namshang La (5000m) en route to the Indus Valley which leads back to Leh. Day 16 Day at leisure in Leh (contingency day) Today is free to relax (you ve earned it) in Leh. This is also a contingency day should there have been any delay on trek. Day 17 Fly to Delhi. Late eve group transfer to Airport It s time to take the spectacular flight back across the Himalayas to Delhi. From the airport the group will be transferred to a centrally located hotel, where a couple of dayrooms are available to freshen up. In the late evening a there ll be a single group airport transfer to Delhi International Airport to coincide with check-in for the majority of flights that depart Delhi for the UK. Clients undertaking the Taj Mahal extension (see Extensions & Excursions section of this trip dossier) will travel by private vehicle to Agra upon returning to Delhi. (breakfast) Day 18 Depart Delhi, Arrive UK Dependent upon flight schedules most flights usually depart Delhi in the early hours of this morning, arriving back in the UK the same day. Practical Information How to join and depart this trip The joining point for this trip is our group hotel in Delhi on day 2 of the Trip Itinerary above. Please ensure you attend the pre-trip briefing at 2000 hrs on Day 2. In order to avoid unnecessary costs inflating the price of your trip, arrival airport transfers are not included as group members may be arriving at very different times, so you should make your way on arrival to the joining point (full details of the joining hotel will be sent 2-3 weeks before your trip departs). However, if you prefer, our consultants can arrange an arrival transfer for you if you request this - please contact us for prices. Alternatively, a licensed, metered taxi or local, public transport may be available from the airport. The departure point for this trip is Delhi International Airport on day 16 of the trip. A single group timed transfer from Delhi will be provided. If your flight times do not coincide with this, our consultants can arrange a departure transfer for you on request - please contact us for prices. Alternatively, a licensed, metered taxi or local, public transport may be arranged from the hotel to take you to the airport. Flight Inclusive We recommend that you book this trip as a 'Flight Inclusive' package. Booking your international flights through Walks Worldwide guarantees you peace of mind and provides 100% financial protection under our CAA ATOL licence. What's more, if you book your flights with us as well as your ground arrangements, we will manage these flight arrangements both before and during your trip. As an ATOL Licence holder, we are able to secure and arrange competitively-priced airfares with most major airlines from the UK (as displayed on our website), as well as the option of regional departures too. Land Only If you would prefer to arrange your own international travel you can book this trip as a 'Land Only' package, where the price does not include international flights. Please note that if you are booking your own flights there are certain risks you should be aware of. Many airline tickets purchased directly are non-refundable and often do not provide you with any financial protection (unlike booking your flights with ourselves where you would be 100% protected under our CAA ATOL licence). For this reason we strongly advise that you check the rules of any flight booking you make, and check the limitations under any insurance policy you may have in relation to cancellation or date changes. We cannot be held liable for any losses incurred or consequences of any flight bookings or related travel arrangements you have made yourself, such as if your international flights were delayed or cancelled and you could not join or depart

6 6 your holiday on time. If you do decide to book Land Only, we strongly advise that you do not book international flights or make other travel arrangements (especially if there are financial penalties for cancellation or change) until your chosen holiday is guaranteed to run. Please also ensure when making your own international travel arrangements that they enable you to join and depart this trip in accordance with the criteria specified in the How to join and depart this trip section of this Trip Dossier. Local transport All transfers included are by private vehicles. Accommodation Accommodation will be reserved for you on a twin share basis in hotels and guesthouses unless you have already requested a single room at extra cost. The single supplement applies to hotel/guesthouse nights only. On trek you ll be sleeping in two person tents, again on a twin share basis. Please note there is no overnight accommodation included in Delhi for the night of day 16. Upon returning to Delhi on day 16, a couple of dayrooms will be made available for relaxation and freshening up purposes only. Each dayroom will be gender specific. Food India is world famous for its cuisine. On trek meals will be a mix of Indian and Tibetan prepared from fresh, local produce and ingredients (rice, dal, vegetables, mild curries, roti etc.), but toned down in terms of spicy heat to suit western palates and primarily vegetarian. Infrequently you will be served Western dishes such as pasta. Breakfasts will usually consist of porridge, eggs, toast, cornflakes etc. Lunches will usually be picnic style. Climate It is of course impossible to predict the precise weather conditions you will encounter during the course of your holiday. However, we do schedule our holidays to coincide with what should be the most suitable weather periods for walking. Whilst in Delhi it will be hot and humid during July/August (approx 35ºC) the altitude of Ladakh means it will be much cooler. The sun will also feel quite strong at altitude too, even if the temperatures are quite cool it may feel warmer than it actually is. Day time temperatures in Ladakh will also vary considerably with altitude. Typical daytime temperatures are lower in Leh but still are usually above 25 ºC in July and August and can drop as low as 15ºC. On trek daytime temperatures may be less than this, especially when crossing the high passes. Night-time temperatures on trek can be very cold; with lows averaging around 0ºC and overnight frosts are common. Ladakh is not affected by the monsoon and in summer it is usually dry and arid, however it can and does rain in Ladakh, which may fall as snow/sleet at higher points of the trek. Mountain regions are notorious for creating their own, localised weather conditions, so you should always be prepared for inclement weather conditions. For climate statistics visit Roughly speaking temperatures decrease by approx. 1ºC for every 200 metre increase in altitude. Altitude Walks Worldwide carefully considers the ascent profile of all treks at altitude and ensures that a sufficient acclimatisation period is factored into each itinerary. The maximum altitude on this trip is 5450m, altitude related symptoms are possible above 2500m but are more common above 3500m. For treks above 3500m it is important to acclimatise gradually and take certain precautions to help ensure the body has chance to adapt to the decrease in air pressure. People tend to react differently to altitude and if you have never walked at altitude before it is difficult to predict how quickly you will adapt. Performance at altitude is not necessarily a reflection of your fitness level and it is often young fit trekkers who can be the worst affected. Those who have suffered altitude-related symptoms in the past are more likely to suffer again, in this case it is recommended you take particular care and consult your GP prior to travel. Trekking at altitude however can be extremely rewarding and the added challenge often makes that summit experience all the more satisfying! A few simple tips to help you acclimatise: Get fit but walk slowly, the fitter you are the more you will enjoy the experience; however over-exertion whilst trekking can increase the chance of altitude sickness. Drink lots of water, dehydration is one of the most common contributing factors to altitude sickness. Drink plenty of fluid even if you are not thirsty as thirst is a poor indicator of hydration. Consult your GP, particularly if you have a history of altitude sickness or it is your first time at altitude. Some GPs may prescribe Acetazolamide (Diamox) to aid acclimatisation although proper preparation and following the simple advice above is often sufficient. Further advice for people going to trek at altitude can be found here on the NHS website Baggage Please make sure that your baggage is clearly marked with your name, inside as well as outside, in case the labels get detached. We request you limit your main baggage whilst on trek to one bag weighing no more than 15kg and recommend you pack your clothes in plastic bags to ensure they remain dry. Your main baggage will be transported by ponies or mules during the trekking element of this holiday. SUITCASES MUST NOT BE USED for your main baggage and will be refused porterage. Please ensure your main baggage is packed in either a soft holdall style kitbag, or a large, unframed rucksack. Contact us if you are unsure about the suitability of your main baggage. Extra baggage may be left in your guesthouse in Leh while you are trekking. Vaccinations & health We always recommend visiting your doctor and dentist for a check-up before travelling. Your doctor will also

7 7 have access to the most up to date information on vaccinations and medical precautions for the country you are about to visit. In general we recommend however, that you be protected against TB, typhoid, polio, tetanus and hepatitis A. Malarial prophylaxis is not necessary whilst trekking in the mountains. However, your doctor may advise you take anti-malarial precautions for Delhi, or if you are also travelling to other parts of India. Please consult with your doctor regarding anti-malarial precautions. A useful travel health online resource is fitfortravel.scot.nhs.uk First Aid You should always carry your own small, personal first aid kit. This should consist of the following: A general anti-biotic, throat lozenges, painkillers, plasters (bandaids), blister treatment, insect repellent (DEET), rehydration salts, antiseptic cream, diarrhoea treatment (e.g. Imodium). Security Whilst the vast majority of travellers never experience anything untoward it is worth taking precautions particularly in urban areas. You should take sensible precautions in crowded areas such as street markets and airports, where pick-pocketing is common, and keep clear of any street disturbances. Don t wear jewellery, or leave your bags unattended, keep large amounts of money, cameras and mobile phones out of sight when walking in town centres, and avoid walking in city centres after dark. Keep copies of important documents, including passports, in a separate place to the documents themselves, together with details of credit cards. Leave copies at home with a friend too. Safeguard valuables, important documents and cash and deposit them in hotel safes, where practicable. Currency The Indian currency is the Rupee. Please refer to for up to date rates. You will need to change the majority of your travel money whilst in Delhi at the beginning of your holiday. You can do this by withdrawing money (in Rupees only) from one of many ATM s in Delhi (if your card is linked to the International Cirrus System), or by exchanging your travel cash at a bank in Delhi. There are also several ATMs in Leh. Language India is home to many languages, although for the region you are visiting Hindi and the Ladakhi (Tibetan dialect) will be the most common encountered. Although your guide will speak English, it s always a good idea to take along a phrase book and learn a few simple words to greet the local people. A recommended phrase book is Learning Ladakhi by Rebecca Norman, available in all bookstores in Leh. Any attempt to speak the language is usually greatly appreciated and all part of the fun in being in India and the Himalaya. Your guide will naturally, also be delighted to help you with your pronunciations. Tipping In Ladakh, you are not expected to tip for every activity or at every guesthouse. The best way to give a tip for your guide is at the end of your holiday (before returning to Delhi). In restaurants a tip of 5-10% is recommended. It is useful to have small notes and change in your pocket for anyone else who exceeds your expectations in the service they give to complement their service (a couple of rupees will suffice which is only roughly 5p). It can also be a way of getting something done! With regard to your Guide and Trek Crew, this is at your discretion and we must stress that tips do not form part of the wages of your guide and trek crew. However, Himalayan people are as a rule incredibly cheerful and friendly and nothing ever seems too much trouble for them. Your guide and trek crew will be no exception and as a tip is the accepted form of saying thank you if you have received good service, a tip at the end of your trek will be greatly appreciated. As a guide we recommend 15 per client for your porters/trek crew and 25 for your guide per client. Technical equipment and clothing are greatly prized amongst guides and trekking crews alike too. Maps We recommend Stanfords at Long Acre, London WC2E 9LP (Tel: ) Travel Insurance It is a condition of booking any of our holidays that you have comprehensive travel insurance. It is your responsibility to ensure you are covered for medical and personal accident risks for the part of the world you intend to travel and the activities involved. This cover should include repatriation costs, air ambulance and helicopter rescue. It is also advisable to take out cancellation insurance as all deposits paid are nonrefundable. You may arrange either single-trip or annual multi-trip travel insurance through Walks Worldwide. Please call us on for a quotation. Passports & Visas British passport holders require a visa for a visit to India (please ensure your passport has at least 6 months validity). You will need to apply and purchase your own Visa for India. Please note that visa/entry requirements and prices change regularly. You can obtain the latest visa information, as well as book your visa either by contacting your reservation consultant, or by following the link below to our designated visa service: Please allow plenty of time for your visa application to be processed. Staff on your trip You will be accompanied by an English-speaking guide and small trek crew throughout the trekking days, as well as pack animals to transport your main baggage. Budgeting for your trip Please refer to the detailed itinerary for information on what is included in this trip. You will need to budget for

8 8 meals and drinks not included in the holiday, any optional sightseeing, souvenirs and items of a personal nature such as laundry. Important Note Due to the specialist nature of our holidays, day to day itineraries should be taken as a guide only, and as statements of intent and not contractual obligations. We regularly update our trip dossiers to take into account changes to trekking routes, accommodation, local transport etc. Such changes are a factor of this type of holiday and when made are out of necessity. Other factors such as adverse weather, unforeseen circumstances and other matters entirely out of our control etc can also lead to enforced changes during the course of the holiday. It is not possible to guarantee that any of our holidays will operate exactly as per the anticipated itinerary. The most current trip dossier will be made available on our website. We will also send you the most up to date trip dossier with your Final Joining Instructions approx. 2 weeks before departure and you should carefully check this for any changes that may affect your plans. Before booking you should read our Types of Trip and Essential and Useful information sections on including our Important Warning. Clothing & Equipment Please check our website for the most up to date information regarding packing for your trip. The information we provide is our suggested guide to help you with your packing based upon our many years of travelling. Using your own judgment for packing is of course important, especially with regard to casual clothing etc. but please do not hesitate to contact us if you have any questions about packing for your trip. Extensions & Excursions Please contact us for tailor-made extensions. Taj Mahal Extension If you ve never been to the Taj Mahal, then you can hardly travel all the way to India and not visit this worldfamous iconic monument. The Taj Mahal is as magnificent as you would hope it to be. Day 1 (Day 12 of the main trip itinerary) Upon flying back to Delhi from Bagdogra you ll then be transferred by private air-conditioned vehicle to Agra (approximately 4 hours drive depending on traffic). Howard Park Plaza Hotel (or similar), Agra Day 2 In the company of your guide, you ll enjoy a full day of sightseeing in Agra, visiting the Red Fort and the iconic Taj Mahal. Howard Park Plaza Hotel (or similar), Agra Day 3 Visit the deserted city of Fatehpur Sikri and then transfer to Delhi International Airport for late evening check-in. Day 4 Depart Delhi, Arrive UK. Includes: Private transfer from Delhi to Agra. Two nights twin-share hotel accommodation with breakfast, guide, sightseeing as detailed, with transfers to sights, entrance fees to sights, and transfer from Agra to Delhi Airport via Fatehpur Sikri. Not Included: Meals other than two breakfasts at Agra hotel. Note - Taj Mahal closed Fridays.

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