AUSTIN BUSH Food is understandably. reasons to visit Thailand, but not all of it s amazing; this disturbingly

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1 Lonely Planet 4 On the Road ANDREW BURKE Coordinating Author There are plenty of reasons not to take a Bangkok túk-túk (see p426 ), but when the heavens opened after a long day of researching I had little choice. Once I d established that I didn t want to be taken to a tailor, gem shop or strip show, the flat-to-the-floor-or-not-at-all ride was a fun reminder that, for all its faults, the túk-túk is a uniquely Thai experience. CELESTE BRASH One thing I love about Thais is that they can be very silly. Here I had forgotten my friend had painted my face with mud as I posed with this harmless snake caught in the jungle on Ko Chang (p275). Everyone laughed: beware of mad guidebook authors loose in the forest! AUSTIN BUSH Food is understandably one of the main reasons to visit Thailand, but not all of it s amazing; this disturbingly technicolour spread was encountered at an oldschool food hall on Th Dinso, in Bangkok s Banglamphu district. BRANDON PRESSER There are few things I like more than diving, and there are few places I like to do it more than Ko Tao (p233). Scubaphiles are quick to point out that tiny Tao s sites aren t the world s best it s all about the lifestyle here: powdersoft beaches, positive vibes and great friends to hang out with after a long day with the fishes. I can never seem to tear myself away. Travellers beware, you re gonna get stuck here too! ADAM SKOLNICK Emerald Cave (p373) in high season usually draws a crowd, so we got up at dawn, hopped in our longtail boat from Hat Faràng and arrived before anyone else. We swam through pitch blackness, which eventually faded into pale morning light streaming into this magnificent hôrng. Not a bad way to begin my birthday. For full author biographies see p451.

2 11 Destination Thailand s Islands & Beaches Sweeping white-sand beaches, hammocks swinging lazily between palm trees and dramatic limestone karsts emerging from sun-kissed bays are the sort of images that populate our dreams of a tropical paradise. On the islands and along the coasts of southern Thailand, the dream becomes reality. That you can enjoy Thailand s islands and beaches whichever way you choose only adds to the allure. If it s solitude you seek, there are islands where the footprints in the sand can be yours alone. Feeling more social? Stomp the sand with thousands of others at a heaving full-moon party. You can choose a beachside hut or a resort with its own spa, go scuba diving or snorkelling, take out a sea kayak or climb those karst formations. Or just lay in a hammock still a perfectly respectable way to experience Thailand. Thailand s islands and beaches might be the stuff of dreams, but keep in mind that the wave of faràng (foreigners of European descent) seeking a slice of paradise has impacts on the local population. Tourism brings plenty of money and for that most Thais are thankful. It is also accompanied by rapid improvements to roads, schools and health centres. But tourists, and those who cater to their tastes, have also brought some less-desirable changes. Problems with drugs and organised prostitution are among the most notable, but less-obvious issues, such as the cultural changes mass tourism brings and how it affects local youth, are also a concern. Speak to locals, however, and you ll probably hear strikingly familiar concerns differing only in their tropical paradise setting: having and keeping a job, physical security and access to reliable health care and useful education for themselves and their families. Economically, vast numbers of people in southern Thailand rely on tourism. Just look around any beach resort to see how many people are employed there, and how many more survive on the money spent by holidaying visitors. It s these people who have been most affected by the country s ongoing political trouble. Many Thais are divided along colour lines: yellow shirts represent the establishment based in Bangkok and red shirts the mainly rural supporters of ex-prime minister Thaksin Shinawatra. When yellow shirts occupied Bangkok s airports for a week, the fallout was greatest in the south. Countless people cancelled their holidays and the tourism industry having recovered so well from the horrors of the 2004 tsunami was brought to its knees. Hundreds of thousands of people were laid off. Anyone in Thailand at the time could see the actual dangers were minimal. However, the same can t be said for the deep south, where the military s hardline attitude to the majority Islamic population continues to drive young men into the separatist movement. More than 3000 people have died in this conflict, which shows little sign of resolution. It is important to be aware of the stories behind the places you visit and some knowledge of the local situation will be greatly appreciated by the locals you meet. That said, for most travellers Thailand s islands and beaches will seem a million miles away from the whatever-it-was you flew here to escape. Thais seem almost pathologically good-natured and even when times are bad they maintain an admirable ability to see the fun side of life. Given that most times are not that bad at all, expect the waters to be as blue, the sands as white and the smiles as warm as you dreamed them to be. The unrest in Thailand s deep south should not deter tourism in other parts of the peninsula, but travellers should monitor the situation through Thailand s English-language media at and seek feedback from other travellers on the Thorn Tree bulletin board at lonelyplanet.com. For more on the south, see the boxed texts on p28 and p265. FAST FACTS Population: 64,632,000 Religion: Buddhist 94.6%, Muslim 4.6% GDP per capita (PPP): US$8400 Minimum daily wage: B depending on province Inflation: 5.8% Number of attempted coups d etat since 1932: 19 Coastline: 3219km Number of yellow shirts worn on Mondays: about 15 million Number of 7-Elevens: almost 5250, and rising

3 12 If the weather sounds confusing, see the Climate Charts, p396, or check out the innovative weather map at Travelfish ( which has stats on average rainfall and the number of rainy days per month so you can work out where the driest beach will be before you arrive. Getting Started Thailand is a traveller s paradise and it s easy and cheap to eat, sleep and get around. If you re a bit flexible and it s not the busiest period around Christmas and New Year, you can pretty much just turn up and make all your decisions as you go. Of course, if you have your heart set on staying at a particular place, book it online. No immunisations are required, visas are easy to obtain and seats on discount flights, comfortable long-distance buses and trains keep most of Thailand within easy reach for not much money. Food and accommodation are plentiful; the beauty of Thailand is that, even on a shoestring, you can see everything and still have money for a shopping binge before you head home. WHEN TO GO The best time to visit coastal Thailand is during the tourist high season between November and April. Accommodation prices are at their highest but almost everything in the country is open, the weather is mainly dry and temperatures are reasonable. The mid-december to late-january period is busiest (and priciest). Local festivals (see p20 ) also cause spikes throughout the year, notably for a week either side of Songkran (Thai New Year; April). The rest of the year (May to October) is the rainy season, when the southwest monsoon drenches the country and tourists stay away for tourism-related businesses this is low season. Prices for accommodation plummet and as competition hots up deals can be found on everything from transport to food, activities, tailoring and even massage. During this time some smaller or harder-to-reach resorts and islands shut down completely, and the ferries that service them either stop or run less frequently. Stormy seas can also play havoc with schedules. Divers should note that in the rainy season visibility drops dramatically. It s not known as the rainy season for nothing, but in southern Thailand not all rain is equal. Often there will be a couple of days without rain or the only rain will be a short, dramatic downpour in the mid-afternoon, which is not enough to ruin the trip. But it all depends on where you are. For example, in September Phuket has about 200mm less rain that Ko Chang, but three times more than Ko Samui. The various permeatations are too numerous to explain here, but see the Travelfish weather map DON T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT Checking the visa situation ( p411 ) travellers of many nationalities can get an entry permit on arrival, but make sure you re one of them A copy of your travel insurance policy details ( p404 ) Looking online for hotel deals ( p390 ) Long-sleeved and leg-covering clothes for showy dinners, visiting temples and air-con buses and trains A mix of credit cards and cash, packed separately for extra security ( p406 ) Unpacking all the useless things that make your bag weigh a tonne; lighten your load physically and mentally Your sense of humour: you re on holiday, enjoy it

4 lonelyplanet.com GETTING STARTED Costs 13 ( for detail. Southern Thailand also receives rain from the northwest monsoon from November to January. To maximise your chances of sunny days, visit between December and March and prioritise the gulf coast over the Andaman coast, which gets more of the northwest monsoon and is generally wetter year-round. Temperatures from November to March hover between 22 C and 30 C throughout Thailand, though they re usually nearer to 30 C. They rise from March to May, when they almost always peak above 30 C. The south is usually a few degrees cooler during the monsoon. COSTS Thailand is cheap by Western standards and it s possible to get by on 1000B (US$30) a day and still live reasonably comfortably. If you re disciplined and stay only in budget guesthouses, eat at street stalls or local restaurants and travel by train or government buses, you can get by on less, but even the smallest appetite for beer will put serious pressure on your budget. Guesthouse accommodation ranges from about 350B to 1000B a day on most beaches. For a little more pampering (air-conditioned bungalows, flights in and out, romantic dinners, boat tours and motorbike rental on the islands), raise your daily budget to about 1700B (US$50). Style costs more but it s possible to get a quality room with character for between about 1700B and 3400B, depending on the season. The upper midrange and associated lifestyle (think mud masks, diving, cocktails) is expanding fast, and you re looking at about 3400B (US$100) a day minimum. At the top end, the sky (actually, the outer atmosphere) is the limit. Luxury resorts start at about 5000B and attached restaurants, bars and spa facilities soon blow that out; though you can always pop out for a 40B green curry. To all these prices add about 20% to 30% in Bangkok. Children can usually stay free in their parents room. Discounts for children are available at museums and on internal flights, trains and some tours and activities. TRAVELLING RESPONSIBLY The key to responsible travel in Thailand, like anywhere, is to be considerate. Consider what impact your actions will have before you act and you ll likely do the right thing by yourself and the country and people of Thailand. Environmental considerations include the obvious, such as littering above and below the surface of the water, not having your towels washed every day and reusing water bottles and the like to avoid excess consumption, but are also impacted by the companies you choose to use for activities such as diving, trekking and climbing; for green businesses, see p463. You can also act responsibly in other ways. When shopping, try to buy souvenirs from the producer if possible, and avoid coral and animal products. When bargaining, by all means start low but do keep it in context and remember a good deal is good for you and the vendor (see the boxed text, p408 ). Perhaps the most satisfying, sustainable and memorable responsible travel is by using homestay accommodation, which is available on many islands, and particularly the smaller, less commercial islands. Not only do you bring money directly into the community, but you get to experience the oft-talked about but seldom found real Thailand. TRAVEL READING Most English-language books about Thailand, be they fiction or nonfiction, focus on Bangkok, but a few do take trips to the south. HOW MUCH? Restaurant dinner B Beachfront room ,000B Open Water dive certification course ,000B Boat trip between Surat Thani and Ko Samui 200B 2nd-class air-con sleeper train from Bangkok to Surat Thani 758B

5 14 GETTING STARTED Top Picks lonelyplanet.com TOP PICKS Cambodia Vietna FILMS Get into the mood for exotic Thailand with these flicks. For more on Thailand s home-grown cinema, see p41. Krung Thep Antara (Bangkok Dangerous, 1999) The Pang brothers stylish, awardwinning story of a deaf hit man who has a crisis of confidence after unexpectedly finding love. A not-so-hot Nicolas Cage remake was released in OK Baytong (2003) A monk enters the modern world to care for his orphaned niece; set in southern Thailand, the story touches on the violence between Thais and Muslims. The Man with the Golden Gun (1973) James Bond thwarts the usual plot for world domination via a long-tail boat chase in Bangkok and a showdown in the villain s evil-yet-idyllic island lair (now visited as James Bond Island, p299 ). Ploy (2007) Psycho-drama about a Thai couple who return to Bangkok after years in America and face a relationship acid test when a young woman moves into their room. The Beach (2000) A big and beautiful Hollywood spectacle based on the Alex Garland novel and often credited for turning Thailand s beach scene from backpacker to flashpacker. Mostly filmed on Ko Phi-Phi Leh ( p358 ). RESORT HOTELS Thailand s resort hotels come in all shapes, sizes and price ranges. For destination-specific recommendations, see our picks for Phuket ( p330 ), Ko Samui ( p203 ), Ko Phi-Phi ( p357 ) and Hua Hin ( p180 ). Jungle retreat Anantara ( p207 ) on Ko Samui, and Golden Buddha Beach Resort ( p290 ) on Ko Phra Thong. Arty chic Library ( p204 ) and Zazen ( p207 ) on Ko Samui, Putahracsa ( p180 ) in Hua Hin and Sala Phuket ( p331 ) on Phuket. Modern luxury Zeavola ( p357 ) on Ko Phi- Phi, Vijitt ( p316 ) or Amanpuri Resort ( p329 ) on Phuket, and Sala Samui ( p205 ) on Ko Samui. Private beach Four Seasons Koh Samui ( p208 ) or Sila Evason Hideaway ( p206 ) on Ko Samui, Chedi ( p328 ) on Phuket, The Paradise Ko Yao ( p300 ) on Ko Yao Noi and Ko Jum Resort ( p366 ). High style, low price Ko Kood Beach Resort ( p162 ) on Ko Kood, Jungle Club ( p202 ) or L Hacienda ( p206 ) on Ko Samui, and Casa 104 ( p311 ) in Phuket Town. ADVENTURE EXPERIENCES Roll out of the hammock and you ll find plenty of adventure activities to get the blood pumping. Rock climbing The awesome limestone walls at Railay ( p346 ). Diving Coral? Wrecks? Whale sharks? Take your pick of some of Asia s best diving (see the boxed text, p282 ). Hiking Stride into one of the oldest rainforests in the world at Khao Sok National Park ( p290 ). Sea kayaking Paddle through the limestone cliffs, hidden lagoons and peachcoloured beaches of Ang Thong Marine National Park s 42 islands ( p248 ). Snorkelling The Gulf of Thailand and Andaman Sea are like one vast snorkelling possibility, but it s hard to beat the reefs around Ko Phi-Phi ( p353 ).

6 lonelyplanet.com GETTING STARTED Internet Resources 15 The Beach, Alex Garland s account of a backpacker s discovery of a beach Eden that is spoiled somewhat by drug lords and sharks, is a highly appropriate Thai beach read. Emily Barr s Backpack is the chick-lit equivalent. It follows a young British woman s attempt to rediscover herself, against a backdrop of holiday romances and backpacker murders. John Burdett s cop dramas are also great beach reads. In Bangkok 8 and Bangkok Tattoo, hard-boiled Sonchai, a Bangkok police investigator, cracks open several page-turning mysteries. Jasmine Nights, by Thai champion-of-the-arts SP Somtow, uses the fictional 1960s friendship between a 12-year-old Thai boy and an African- American boy to closely examine Thai culture. On the nonfiction shelf Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture, by Philip Cornwel-Smith, colourfully explains all manner of Thai oddities, from why taxis have dashboard shrines to why Thais put salt in their fruit drinks. Travelers Tales Thailand: True Stories features travel essays by Charles Nicholls, Pico Iyer and others, with some savvy travel tips sprinkled throughout the text. INTERNET RESOURCES The Web is awash with websites about Thailand and Thai culture. Useful sites include the following: 2Bangkok.com ( English translations from the Thai press, ongoing monitoring of the situation in the south and other news. Lonely Planet ( General information, long reviews of hotels and resorts with a booking function and, of course, the Thorn Tree traveller forum. Tezza (tezza-thailandbeachesandislands.blogspot.com) Tezza blogs on his travels to a huge variety of islands, with timely comments and links. Thai Visa ( An expat message board dealing with visa issues and FAQs; good info but lots of drivel, too. Tourism Thailand ( Tourist Authority of Thailand s website. Travelfish ( The best independent travel site for backpackers coming to Thailand.

7 16 Itineraries CLASSIC ROUTES FIRST-TIMER ISLAND HOPPING Two to Three Weeks / Bangkok to Bangkok Spend some time in Bangkok ( p64 ), before bussing south to Chumphon ( p189 ), the jumping-off point for diving or snorkelling in Ko Tao ( p233 ) and fullmooning in Ko Pha-Ngan ( p216 ). These islands are supremely chilled with a dash (you say when) of hedonism thrown in. Ko Pha-Ngan is one of the most diverse islands in the Gulf: 20-somethings go for trance-crazed Hat Rin ( p218 ), 30s-and-beyond burrow further north, maybe peeping into the party for old-time s sake, and families dig the toddler-friendly bays. When you tire of your hammock head via air or Surat Thani to the beautiful Andaman coast, decorated with the iconic limestone sea cliffs that have made Thailand s beaches famous. From Krabi ( p336 ) squeeze into a minivan to explore the surrounding beaches or go to Railay ( p346 ) to climb the world-famous seaside karst cliffs. For more beaches, check out Ko Lanta ( p358 ) before returning to Krabi via Ko Phi-Phi ( p351 ) to see what all the fuss is about. Drag yourself off the sand for some jungle trekking in Khao Sok National Park ( p290 ) or Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park ( p183 ), closer to Bangkok. Then head back to Bangkok for a wrap up of souvenir shopping and city pampering. Join the classic beach-hunters trail by leapfrogging across the peninsula and dipping your toes into both the Gulf of Thailand and the Andaman Sea (1400km round trip). A N D A M A N S E A M Y A N M A R ( B U R M A ) BANGKOK Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park Gulf of Thailand CAMBODIA Chumphon Ko Tao Ko Pha-Ngan Khao Sok National Park Surat Thani Krabi Railay Ko Phi-Phi Ko Lanta

8 lonelyplanet.com ITINERARIES Classic Routes 17 HAMMOCK TOUR EXTRAORDINAIRE One Month / Bangkok to Bangkok A month, you say? There are thousands of perfectly good itineraries to think up but, well, why not consider a hammock tour extraordinaire. Not just any old beach trip, this is enough time to really get to know southern Thailand s islands, beaches, jungle parks and cuisine you ll eat a lot of kà nŏm jeen (a southern noodle dish). On your way south from Bangkok ( p64 ) stop in at Cha-am ( p172 ) for a brief taste of beach culture Thai style (nary a faràng to be seen). Continue south via Chumphon out to the odd-couple island twins of Ko Tao ( p233 ) and Ko Pha-Ngan ( p216 ). With a bit of experience under your (dive) belt it s time to leave the pack behind for some real travelling along the beaches between Surat Thani ( p249 ) and Nakhon Si Thammarat ( p254 ). Continue to Hat Yai ( p260 ), the gateway to the deep south, and then west to the sleepy Muslim town of Satun ( p378 ), the jumping-off point to the wildly beautiful natural islands of Ko Tarutao Marine National Park ( p383 ). Turning north, head up to Trang ( p367 ) and pop over to the beaches of Hat Chao Mai National Park, including delightful Ko Kradan ( p374 ), or the wild mangroves of Ko Libong ( p375 ), home to endangered dugongs and exotic birds. Hopscotch through a series of beach resorts: quickly morphing Ko Lanta (p358 ), backwater Ko Jum (p366 ) and Ko Phi-Phi ( p351 ), which can be crowded but is also stunningly beautiful. Don t forget the beaches around Krabi ( p336 ) for real sand credibility. Then hightail it to Phuket ( p302 ), Thailand s most powerful tourist tractor beam, and push on north to idyllic Hat Khao Lak ( p292 ). From here, sail out on a live-aboard dive or snorkelling safari into the Similan Islands (p295 ) or the Surin Islands ( p289 ). Back on dry land, get yourself back to Bangkok to catch up on some shopping and partying to round out the trip. M Y A N M A R ( B U R M A ) A N D A M A N S E A Cha-am BANGKOK Gulf of Thailand CAMBODIA Take your time exploring the beauty of a broad range of Thailand s beaches, islands and national parks above and below the water (1800km round trip). Chumphon Surin Islands Ko Tao Ko Pha-Ngan Similan Islands Surat Thani Hat Khao Lak Krabi Nakhon Si Thammarat Ko Jum Phuket Ko Phi-Phi Trang Ko Lanta Ko Kradan Hat Chao Mai National Park Ko Libong Hat Yai Ko Tarutao Marine National Park Satun MALAYSIA

9 18 ITINERARIES Classic Routes lonelyplanet.com EAST COAST POP-IN Seven to 10 Days Maybe More / Bangkok to Bangkok Thailand s southern islands might draw the big crowds, but if you re pushed for time or heading into Cambodia this route along the eastern gulf coast is both easier to get to and relatively less touristed. From Bangkok ( p64 ) head directly to Ban Phe ( p138 ), the transfer point for trips to rustic Ko Samet National Park ( p139 ), where Bangkokians kick off their flip-flops. Continue along the coast to sleepy Trat ( p145 ) or just go direct to Laem Ngop for the boat into the Ko Chang Archipelago, where you can choose your level of comfort and isolation from a host of islands. Jungle-topped Ko Chang ( p150 ) is the largest and most developed island, with diversions ranging from elephant trekking ( p154 ) and guided hikes ( p154 ) of the rugged interior to diving into the underworld. To get further off the beaten beach, jump on a boat to more secluded Ko Mak ( p162 ) or jungle-clad Ko Kood ( p160 ). For most travellers these will be well and truly unspoilt enough. If, however, you ve decided you won t be making it back to work/real life on time and fancy yourself as an explorer (do your mum to warn her you re disappearing off the face of the earth but will be returning) head for ultra simple Ko Kham or Ko Rayang ( p165 ) for some stunning coral, or to the national park at Ko Rang ( p165 ) for a genuine Survivor experience, sans pesky host, cameramen and tribal councils. If and when you re heading back to Bangkok, consider a stop in (brace yourself) Pattaya ( p120 ), where you might be surprised at how much there is to do that doesn t involve sleaze (though there s certainly plenty of that!). Pressed for time or tied to the capital? You can deposit your beach towel on silky sand within a half-day s journey of Bangkok, or go a couple of hours further to the relatively less-visited Ko Chang Archipelago ( km round trip). BANGKOK Pattaya Ban Phe Ko Samet National Park Laem Ngop Ko Chang C A M B O D I A Trat Ko Kham Ko Rang Gulf of Thailand Ko Rayang Ko Mak Ko Kood

10 lonelyplanet.com TAILORED TRIPS ITINERARIES Tailored Trips 19 HONEYMOON DREAMING Wedding = stress. Honeymoon = romance. With just a week, touch down for a night in a boutique hotel in Bangkok ( p93 ) then fly direct to Ko Samui ( p195 ) or Phuket ( p302 ) to minimise your travelling time. These islands have long, voluptuous beaches and amenities developed for package tourists, but they also have quiet corners for down-to-earth relaxing. Skip Samui s rowdier beaches for less beautiful but more romantic Bo Phut ( p206 ). Drop into a spa resort ( p200 ) for a well-earned chance to be rubbed and revitalised while just laying back and thinking of anything except seating plans. Suitably de-stressed, join a tour to the wilderness of nearby Ang Thong Marine National Park ( p248 ). Phuket is Thailand s most famous island but there s more to it than gaudy high-rises and super commercial Patong. Stay at a romantic, outof-the-way beach, such as Hat Mai Khao ( p331 ). Once settled, soak up some culture in Phuket Town ( p308 ), a spice trade-era port town with mixed Chinese, Indian and Portuguese influences and some fine restaurants. For a little more action dive or snorkel in the Andaman Sea ( p304 ) or explore the beaches of Sirinat National Park ( p330 ). With two weeks, you can split your affections between two islands. Motor from Phuket over to stunning Ko Phi-Phi ( p351 ). Too much civilisation? Then embrace your inner Tarzan and Jane and go native on napping Ko Jum ( p366 ). THE ANTI-HAMMOCK If you prefer climbing limestone rock faces to climbing into your hammock, diving into the unknown realm to diving into the infinity pool, then you ve come to the right part of the world. While Ko Tao ( p233 ) is a good place to get your dive licence, Thailand s best diving, snorkelling and climbing is spread along the remarkable Andaman coast. Fly south from Bangkok (p64 ) to Trang ( p367 ) and kick on to lesser-known but stunning beaches and islands such as Ko Kradan ( p374 ). The waters near Kradan are a favourite hangout for turtles and lionfish, while the island itself has a lush tangle of jungle. Take a boat up to Ko Phi-Phi ( p351 ) for a change of scene, both above and below the surface. Time to trade your flippers for carabiners so head to Krabi ( p336 ) and around to pretty Railay ( p346 ), where you can ascend the karst limestone walls in Thailand s most-renowned rock- climbing region and sneak in a little hammock time. But we re not done yet. The cliffs conquered, it s time to strap on the tanks or snorkelling gear again for the coup de grâce. Meet up with your live-aboard yacht in Phuket ( p304 ) or Hat Khao Lak ( p293 ) yes, invite your new dive friends to share the cost and set sail for the tropical archipelago of the Similan Islands ( p295 ). With enough time and money, finish the trip in the Surin Islands ( p289 ), where you might meet some of Jacques Cousteau s old manta mates at Richelieu Rock. Sirinat National Park Ko Jum Phuket Ko Phi-Phi Surin Islands Similan Islands Bangkok Ang Thong Marine National Park Ko Samui Hat Khao Lak Ko Tao Railay Phuket Krabi Ko Phi-Phi Ko Kradan Trang Bangkok

11 20 Events Calendar Thailand has some cracking festivals and events. Many are religious, with festivities revolving around the local wát or mosque, but a growing number of others are secular, ranging from celebrations of jazz to underwater weddings. Exact dates for most festivals vary from year to year; for more information, see p402. JANUARY NEW YEAR S DAY 30 Dec-1 Jan This is the first of Thailand s three New Year s celebrations and features Western-style revelry. FEBRUARY MARCH CHINESE NEW YEAR 3-5 Feb 2011, Jan 2012 Thailand s large Thai-Chinese population celebrate đrùđ jeen (lunar new year) with a week of house cleaning, lion dances and fireworks. The most impressive festivities are in Bangkok s Chinatown and Phuket Town s Old Town. PHRA NAKHON KHIRI FAIR early Feb Notable temple festival in Phetchaburi with classical dance and dramatic performances and a beauty contest for local widows; see p171. TRANG UNDERWATER WEDDING 14 Feb On Valentine s Day lovers with Scuba fetishes take their vows under the waters off Ko Kradan, in Trang province. The ceremony has become a big deal in Trang, which now markets the Season of Love. Locals and foreigners are welcome; see p376. PHUKET GAY PRIDE This four-day weekend party event has been running for years, though the dates are notoriously changeable (usually sometime between February and April); see p326. MAGHA PUJA (MAH KÁ BOO CHAH) 18 Feb 2011, 8 Mar 2012 The full moon of the third lunar month is celebrated countrywide to commemorate the Buddha s spontaneous, unannounced preaching to 1250 enlightened monks, who came to hear him without prior summons. The festival culminates in a candle-lit walk around the main chapel at every wát. BANGKOK JAZZ FESTIVAL Mar Formerly a December event in Dusit Park, this major festival of international and Thai musicians has (for now) moved to March and the Central World shopping mall; see festival.com. APRIL CHAKRI DAY 6 Apr Across the country, celebrations are held for the founding of the Chakri royal dynasty. SONGKRAN Apr The celebration of the Thai New Year is the major festival on the Thai calendar. Many people head home on holiday to observe traditional rites such as Buddha images being bathed and monks and elders receiving the respect of younger Thais through the sprinkling of water over their hands. Tourists are not exempt: most travellers tend to become thoroughly immersed in one megawaterfight or another, so dress to be soaked! Organised shows are held in Bangkok at Th Khao San and Patpong, where you can arm yourself with a high-calibre water gun and go berserk. Elsewhere you re just as likely to get saturated (it s very uncool to get angry at someone throwing water on you), so don t carry anything you don t want to get wet. MAY JUNE SAILBOAT REGATTA early May Hat Chao Mai ( p371 ), near Trang, holds an annual regatta for traditional wooden sailboats, accompanied by music and theatre. VISAKHA PUJA (WÍ SĂH KÀ BOO CHAH) 17 May 2011, 4 Jun 2012 The full moon of the sixth lunar month commemorates the Buddha s birth, enlightenment and parinibbana (passing away). Activities are centred on the wát, with candle-lit processions, chanting and sermons. HUA HIN JAZZ FESTIVAL mid-jun This annual event in Hua Hin is Thailand s best jazz festival; see p179.

12 lonelyplanet.com EVENTS CALENDAR July December 21 JULY AUGUST ASALHA PUJA (AH SĂHN HÀ BOO CHAH) 26 Jul 2010, 15 Jul 2011, 2 Aug 2012 This Buddhist festival, on the full moon of the eighth lunar month, commemorates the day the Buddha preached his first sermon after attaining enlightenment and is marked at Theravada Buddhist temples with a candle-lit procession at night. KHAO PHANSA (KÔW PAN SĂH) 27 Jul 2010, 16 Jul 2011, 3 Aug 2012 The day after Asalah Puja marks the beginning of the Buddhist lent and rains retreat. Young men traditionally enter the monkhood for the rainy season, and all monks sequester themselves in a monastery for three months. It s a good time to observe a Buddhist ordination. SEPTEMBER OCTOBER VEGETARIAN FESTIVAL For nine days at the start of the ninth lunar month (usually in September or October), devout Chinese Buddhists give up meat and engage in stomach-turning acts of self-mutilation. It s celebrated with special vigour in Phuket, Trang and Bangkok, while Krabi and Phang-Nga partake on a smaller scale; see p312. BANGKOK INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL late Sep Dates and venues are notoriously fickle for Bangkok s two film festivals; this one usually runs for 10 days and most recently was held in late September. About 150 films are shown, with an emphasis on Asian cinema, ending with the awarding of the festival s Golden Kinnaree; see OK PHANSA 23 Oct 2010, 12 Oct 2011, 29 Oct 2012 The end of Buddhist lent on the full moon of the 11th lunar month sets off a national party. It celebrates the Buddha s three-month retreat to heaven to talk to his mother. NOVEMBER BANGKOK PRIDE mid-nov Usually held in mid-november, this week-long festival of parades, parties, awards, sequins and feather boas is organised by city businesses and organisations for Bangkok s gay, lesbian, bisexual and transgender community. Don t miss the opening Pink in the Park fair in Lumphini Park; see LOI KRATHONG 21 Nov 2010, 10 Nov 2011, 28 Nov 2012 On the night of the full moon of the 12th lunar month, small lotus-shaped gràtong (baskets or boats made of a section of banana trunk for flotation, banana leaves, flowers, incense, candles and a coin don t use the Styrofoam versions) are floated down Mae Nam Chao Phraya in Bangkok and rivers, lakes and canals across Thailand. The ceremony, which originated in Sukhothai, is both an offering to the water spirits and a symbolic cleansing of bad luck. DECEMBER KING S BIRTHDAY 5 Dec Across the country, formal processions and cultural displays take place. It s huge in Bangkok, where festivities centre on the Grand Palace and the Dusit palace district. CONCERT IN THE PARK mid-dec mid-feb The Bangkok Symphony Orchestra performs free concerts in Bangkok s Lumphini Park every Sunday evening (from 5.30pm) between mid-december and mid-february; see

13 281 Diving & Other Activities THIS IMAGE IS NOT AVAILABLE DUE TO COPYRIGHT RESTRICTIONS Scuba diving over a coral reef in Similan Islands Marine National Park (p295) WATERFRAME / ALAMY

14 282 Clownfish and anemone ERNEST MANEWAL A trip to Thailand s islands and beaches: days lounging in the shade of a coconut palm, evenings spent watching the fiery sunset the true definition of paradise. But after several extended sessions of muscle-shrivelling relaxation, it becomes increasingly difficult to avoid that little voice in your head encouraging you to get back on your feet and explore. Good thing Thailand has some of the best scuba diving in the entire world, not to mention excellent hiking, rock climbing and sea kayaking. At the end of your trip, you might be surprised to find that you ll need a vacation from your vacation! DIVING Those who have explored the deep can undoubtedly agree with Jacques Cousteau: the sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its top five DIVE HUBS Ko Tao ( p233 ) Fantastic frenetic dive energy and scores of shallow dive sites that are often visited by plankton-guzzling whale sharks. This is the best (and cheapest) place in Thailand to lose your scuba virginity. Sail Rock (more readily accessible from Ko Pha- Ngan) and Chumphon Pinnacle are the star sites. Khao Lak ( p292 ) The gateway to the hushed tropical archipelagos of the Surin and Similan Islands chains. Explore myriad dive sites on a live-aboard trip and check out Richelieu Rock a stunning diving spot discovered by Jacques Cousteau. Ko Lanta ( p358 ) Another top spot for crystalclear waters and loads of marine life including recurrent visits by manta rays and the odd whale shark. Try the submerged pinnacles at Hin Daeng and Hin Muang. Ko Phi-Phi Don ( p351 ) A triumphant comeback after the tsunami: loads of shimmering reefs swaying under perfectly clear waters. Hin Bida or Ko Bida Nok are the local faves, as is the King Cruiser wreck. Ko Lipe ( p386 ) Not as impressive as most of the other hubs around the kingdom, but the noticeable lack of divers and wonderfully laidback vibe set the region apart.

15 DIVING & OTHER ACTIVITIES 283 net of wonder forever. In fact, when Mr Cousteau sang that sea s praises, he was probably talking about the land of smiles, since he himself discovered several of the frequented sites explored by many today. Those who are willing to strap on some scuba gear can easily access this stunning realm, which rivals the beauty of the kingdom s idyllic on-land scenery captured in photographs and postcards, then flaunted to jealous friends back home. For detailed information about the ins and outs of diving in Thailand, see p393. Andaman Coast vs Gulf Coast Thailand s unique coastal topography sits at the junction of two distinct oceanic zones the Andaman Sea waters wash in from the west, while the Gulf of Thailand draws its waters from the islands of Indonesia and the South China Sea. Although marine life is somewhat similar on both sides of the peninsula, each region has telltale differences that easily distinguish one from the other. An ideal diving vacation in Thailand would involve stops along both bodies of water. The most popular dive sites throughout the kingdom are reef-encrusted limestone outcrops and submerged limestone pinnacles. These sights are often surrounded by deep water and are feeding stations for large pelagic fish including manta rays, reef sharks and whale sharks. Underwater caverns, walls and seamounts are quickly gaining popularity as the older sites become overrun with divers. The seas off both coasts benefit from their equatorial positioning and offer bathwaterlike temperatures that hover around 29 C throughout the year. When the weather is right, the Andaman Sea has some of the finest diving in Southeast Asia. Many would argue that the Andaman has better diving than the gulf, but this is mostly attributed to excellent visibility during the few months of favourable sea conditions. After several post-tsunami evaluations of the coral reefs in the Andaman, most divers agree that the damage was surprisingly small. In fact, some say that the sea has been shining a more brilliant blue in recent years. At least 210 hard corals and 108 species of reef fish have been recorded here, and encounters with large pelagic creatures are quite frequent along the southern provinces. Live-aboard dive trips regularly depart Khao Lak and Phuket for the quiet archipelagos further west known as the Surin and Similan Islands. To the south, Ko Phi-Phi, Ko Lanta and even little Ko Lipe are great places to hang your Many-host goby and sea plants MICHAEL AW rucksack and put on some fins.

16 284 The best part about diving the Gulf of Thailand is that sea conditions are generally favourable throughout the year. This C-shaped coastline is about twice as long as the Andaman side and changes drastically as it links the Malaysian border to Thailand s eastern neighbour, Cambodia. The southwestern gulf coast has the finest diving spots, located near the islands of Ko Tao and Ko Pha-Ngan. Ko Tao currently certifies more divers than any other place in world. Pattaya, just a quick two-hour hop from the Bangkok bustle, offers a few memorable dives as well including a couple wrecks. On the far eastern side of the coast, the Ko Chang Archipelago provides for some pleasant scuba possibilities, although choppy seas limit the season to November to May. Thailand s Marine Life If speaking were possible underwater, almost every dive site in Thailand would be a noisy jumble of oohs and aahs as divers gleefully point to passing creatures. Thailand s aquatic food chain is as colourful as it is complicated. Hard and soft corals provide the foundation for schooling fish ranging in size from teeny Nemos (clownfish), to large visitors such as giant trevallies, tunas, groupers, barracudas, kingfish, manta rays and reef sharks. The gigantic whale shark is the big kahuna. For more information on whale sharks, see the boxed text above. HITTING THE UNDERWATER JACKPOT Most divers come to Thailand with the hope of hitting the underwater jackpot: spotting an elusive whale shark the largest fish in the sea with a giant mouth that can measure about 2m wide (so just imagine how big their bodies are). Don t worry; they are filter feeders, which means that they mostly feed on plankton, krill and other tiny organisms. In fact, divers often report that adult whale sharks are quite friendly and enjoy swimming through the streamers of bubbles emitted by divers. Usually these gentle creatures gravitate towards submerged pinnacles and often hang out at a site for several days before continuing on. So, if rumours are flying around about a recent sighting, then strap on your scuba gear and hit the high seas. In the past there were spotting seasons, but recent shifts in weather patterns mean that they can be spotted at any time of the year. Recently the number of whale sharks has greatly increased in 2007 most diving instructors averaged around four sightings per year, but these days the scuba pros we encountered said they are personally averaging between 20 and 40 gentle giants annually! Diving with a whale shark near Ko Tao (p233) BRANDON PRESSER

17 DIVING & OTHER ACTIVITIES 285 Snorkelling near Ko Chang (p275) DAVID GREEDY SNORKELLING Snorkelling is a popular choice for those who cringe at the thought of breathing air out of a tank; it s also a great option for those who are simply on a tighter budget. Orchestrating your own snorkelling adventure is a cinch along all of the coasts there are loads of resorts and dive shops that rent out gear for 100B to 200B per day. Many islands, including the Trang island chain ( p371 ), Ko Tao ( p238 ), Ko Pha-Ngan ( p247 ), Ko Phi-Phi ( p351 ) and the islands in the Ko Chang Archipelago ( p148 ), have phenomenal snorkelling spots right off shore. Snorkelling tours are becoming just as popular as diving day trips; in fact, many dive operators are now starting to offer snorkelling outings as well. Expect to pay between 500B and 1000B for a day trip, depending on how far you travel to find favourable conditions. High-end excursions usually use fancy speedboats and expensive equipment, while cheaper deals tend to focus more on the social aspect of the trip, taking customers to so-so reefs. Consider chartering your own speedboat or long-tail boat if you are serious about snorkelling. With a little research, it s not too difficult to scout out undisturbed reefs nearby. In general you can see plenty of marine life while snorkelling, though at busy tourist destinations such as Ko Phi-Phi the number of travellers is starting to harm the marine environment. The general rule is that the further you get from human inhabitation, the better the condition of the reefs. However, some developed islands have hidden corners where healthy coral still persists, usually coinciding with areas of rocky shoreline.

18 286 SEA KAYAKING Although Thailand s coastal regions are famous for the action occurring below sea level, sea kayaking is a great way to check out some remote islands and hidden coves that are inaccessible to larger watercraft. The thin chain of islands between Ko Samui and the mainland, known as Ang Thong Marine Park ( p248 ), is a must for any kayaking fanatic. This stunning collection of easily anthropomorphised islands stretches along the cerulean waters like an emerald necklace. All of the islands are uninhabited (save five bungalows operated by the marine parks system) and feature pristine terrain that can only be accessed by long-tail boat or kayak. Tours depart from Ko Samui ( p200 ) and Ko Pha-Ngan ( p222 ), both located about an hour s ride away by speedboat. Sea-kayaking tours of remote islands and mangroves around the Andaman Sea are hugely popular at tourist centres such as Phuket ( p305 ), Ao Nang ( p342 ) and elsewhere along the coast. In some cases equipment can be rented for solo expeditions, but more typically outings are organised tours, which include transfers, guides, gear, lunch and usually snorkelling equipment as a bonus. CAVING Spelunking is just as much fun as it sounds. Bounding through angled crevices and dangling stalactites is a popular activity among visitors. Millions of years worth of monsoon rains have etched elaborate systems of tunnels throughout Thailand. Join a cave tour in Ko Lanta ( p361 ), Ko Muk ( p373 ) or Khao Sok National Park ( p291 ), or visit the undulating coastline in Trang Province ( p367 ), which offers a fascinating mix of intense crawl spaces and hidden shrines. The newest fad in cavern exploration is underwater caving a popular option for scubaphiles with a significant amount of diving experience. Several operators on Ko Tao ( p238 ) offer one-day/one-night trips out to the submerged grottos in Khao Sok National Park. Kayaking at Ao Phang-Nga (p297) AUSTIN BUSH

19 DIVING & OTHER ACTIVITIES 287 Many caves throughout Thailand have been transformed into unusual religious sanctuaries although these caverns are by no means a heart-pumping expedition, their context is important in understanding the kingdom s history and customs. The dramatic caves at Khao Sam Roi Yot ( p184 ) are a cherished royal stomping ground, and feature a dazzling golden pavilion that shimmers as the afternoon sunlight pours in from above. The popular temple town of Phetchaburi ( p169 ) has a couple of interesting cave shines as well. HIKING Despite the region s focus on water sports, Thailand s coasts and islands have numerous hiking opportunities featuring unique biodiversity and photo opportunities befitting the pages of National Geographic. If you re travelling between the Andaman and gulf coasts, consider breaking up the trip with a stopover in the centre of the isthmus of Kra the long strip of land that separates the two coasts. This network of inland jungles stretches in a ribbon from Phetchaburi, near Bangkok, all the way down into Malaysia. Along the way, visitors will find the oldest rainforest in the world with over 500 species of birds. Two virgin archipelagos are bookends to coastal Thailand Ko Chang Archipelago hugs the Cambodian border and features dozens of tiny islands primed for exploration, while the Ko Tarutao Marine Park near the Malaysian border benefits from strict governmental laws prohibiting development on all but one island. For information on responsible hiking see p393. top five TREKS Khao Sok National Park ( p290 ) This majestic park protects the world s oldest rainforest, which features shimmering limestone outcrops, gushing waterfalls, giant flowers, curious creatures and thickets of dripping jungle ferns. Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park (p183 ) A network of easily navigable paths criss-crosses a steep jungle of overgrown flora and leaping dusky langur monkeys. Ko Chang ( p150 ) Endless acres of untouched terrain lie hidden deep within this gargantuan floating jungle. Try exploring the island s netherregions on the back of a gentle elephant. Ko Tarutao Marine National Park (p383 ) One of the original marine parks in Thailand, this pristine archipelago is home to 51 jungle islands with loads of opportunities for nature enthusiasts to tread quietly among tumbling vegetation and scampering wildlife. Ko Adang and Ko Rawi are our faves. Kam Ru National Park (p292 ) The quiet national park at Khao Lak is a stunning expanse of dramatic hills, sea cliffs, estuaries and forested valleys. Scurrying fauna includes tapirs, monkeys and black bears. ROCK CLIMBING Thailand s numerous jagged outcrops of sky-reaching limestone make most tourists drool, but for rock-climbing enthusiasts it s Ban Kwan Elephant Camp (p154), Ko Chang DAVID GREEDY

20 288 a whole other story. These swirling stone masses are a world-class playground of crags and crevices that lures scores of adventurers from around the globe. The Andaman coast delivers the goods, with several iterations of rocky crags along the sharp, twisting coast. With nearly 500 bolted routes and top-notch views from the summits, Railay ( p346 ) can safely claim to be one of the best places in the world to climb. Try your hand at One, Two, Three Wall, which boasts over 40 climbs ranging from 4b to 8b on the French grading system. Advanced climbers should test their muscles at Thaiwand Wall, a slippery, sky-scraping limestone mass at the southern end of Hat Rai Leh West. Deep water soloing is a recent craze adventurers are free-climbing steep, limestone ledges and using the deep seas below as their safety net when they fall in. The Trang Islands ( p371 ) are another popular spot for some monkey action, as are Ko Phi-Phi ( p354 ) and Ko Tao ( p239 ). Tuition costs generally hover around 5000B to 6000B for a three-day course, while halfday courses will set you back around 800B to 1000B. If you are an experienced climber, equipment can be rented for around 1000B per day. For those who intend to bring their own gear, include a 60m rope, plenty of slings and quickdraws, chalk (sweaty palms are inevitable in the tropics) and a small selection of nuts and cams as backup for thinly protected routes. Final anchors are usually fixed at two or three points and have opposing karabiners or double rings for lowering off. A woven rattan mat (available locally for 100B to 150B) will help keep the sand out of your gear. Bolts are replaced every few years and are generally solid, though some of the more-remote routes are re-bolted less frequently and may be off-limits for safety reasons. Rock climbing at Railay (p346) CHRISTOPHER GROENHOUT

21 The Authors ANDREW BURKE 451 Coordinating Author, Destination, Getting Started, Itineraries, Events Calendar, Bangkok (coauthor), Directory, Transport Andrew has been coming to Thailand for long enough to remember when there was only one full moon party a month on Ko Pha-Ngan and very little neon on Khao San Rd. Since then he s spent almost 20 years travelling through, photographing and writing about Asia, the Middle East and Africa, and the past 10 living in Hong Kong, Phnom Penh and Bangkok. Andrew writes and photographs for publications including Travel+Leisure, National Geographic Traveler and the Australian Financial Review, and contributes occasional television reporting to Channel 4 UK and CNN International. He has written or contributed to more than 20 books for Lonely Planet, including guides to Bangkok, Laos, China and Iran. THE AUTHORS CELESTE BRASH Eastern Gulf Coast Celeste first arrived in Thailand as a student of Thai language, history and culture at Chiang Mai University. She s come back several times since and has done the gamut from wild nights on Ko Pha-Ngan to weeks of silence at Wat Suan Mokkhaphalaram. Her award-winning travel stories have appeared in Travelers Tales books and her travel articles have appeared in publications including the LA Times and Islands magazine. She s lost count of how many Lonely Planet guides she s contributed to, but her heart is irrevocably stuck on Southeast Asia. When not dragging her husband and two children to exotic places, she and her family live on the island of Tahiti in French Polynesia. AUSTIN BUSH History, The Culture, Food & Drink, Bangkok (coauthor), Southwestern Gulf Coast (Deep South section) After graduating from the University of Oregon with a degree in linguistics, Austin received a scholarship to study Thai at Chiang Mai University and has remained in Thailand ever since. After working several years at a stable job, he made the questionable decision to pursue a career as a freelance photographer/writer. This choice has since taken him as far as northern Pakistan and as near as Bangkok s Or Tor Kor Market. He enjoys writing and taking photos about food most of all because it s delicious. His work can be seen at LONELY PLANET AUTHORS Why is our travel information the best in the world? It s simple: our authors are passionate, dedicated travellers. They don t take freebies in exchange for positive coverage so you can be sure the advice you re given is impartial. They travel widely to all the popular spots, and off the beaten track. They don t research using just the internet or phone. They discover new places not included in any other guidebook. They personally visit thousands of hotels, restaurants, palaces, trails, galleries, temples and more. They speak with dozens of locals every day to make sure you get the kind of insider knowledge only a local could tell you. They take pride in getting all the details right, and in telling it how it is. Think you can do it? Find out how at lonelyplanet.com.

22 452 THE AUTHORS lonelyplanet.com THE AUTHORS BRANDON PRESSER Diving & Other Activities, Northwestern Gulf Coast, Southwestern Gulf Coast Growing up in a land where bear hugs are taken literally, this wanderlusty Canadian always craved swaying palms and golden sand. A trek across Southeast Asia as a teenager was the clincher he was hooked, returning year after year to scuba dive, suntan, and savour spoonfuls of spicy sôm-đam (papaya salad). After giving up his job at the Louvre, Brandon picked up his pen and rucksack and became a full-time freelance travel writer. These days he spends most of his time on the road authoring Lonely Planet books to far-flung destinations such as Iceland and Borneo. This is his fifth guide to Southeast Asia. ADAM SKOLNICK Northern Andaman Coast, Southern Andaman Coast Adam became travel obsessed while working as an environmental activist in the mid 90s. A freelance journalist, he writes about travel, culture, health, sports and the environment for Lonely Planet, Men s Health, Outside, Travel & Leisure, and Spa. He has coauthored seven previous Lonely Planet guidebooks, including Southeast Asia on a Shoestring, East Timor, Bali & Lombok and Indonesia. He s also the author of Phuket Encounter. On this research trip he drove more than 3000km in his rented and extremely masculine blue bunny, made four visa runs and chartered or hitched 47 long-tails. You can read more of his work at CONTRIBUTING AUTHORS Dr Trish Bachelor wrote the Health chapter. She is a general practitioner and travel-medicine specialist who works at the Ciwec Clinic in Kathmandu, Nepal, as well as being a Medical Advisor to the Travel Doctor New Zealand clinics. Trish teaches travel medicine through the University of Otago, and is interested in underwater and high-altitude medicine, and in the impact of tourism on host countries. She has travelled extensively through Southeast and East Asia and particularly loves high-altitude trekking in the Himalayas. David Lukas wrote the Environment chapter. David is a professional naturalist who lives on the border of Yosemite National Park, where he conducts research and writes about the natural world. His many travels include spending a year in western Borneo studying the ecology of Southeast Asian rainforests. He is the author of environment chapters for about 20 Lonely Planet guides ranging from Nova Scotia to Costa Rica.