Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. Behind the Scenes

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1 424 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Many thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Anthony & Maureen Benedict, Anne Berger, Robert Claassen, Naldi Dalia, Laura Fortey, Aaron Hurd, Christina Kloss, Alex Konik, Marietta Lieb, Deidre Mahoney, Monse Murcia, Isabel Heim Vadis AUTHOR THANKS Brendan Sainsbury Thanks to all the untold bus drivers, tourist info volunteers, burger-flippers, bush pilots and backcountry guides who helped me during my research. Special thanks to my wife, Liz, and eight-year-old son, Kieran, for their company on the road. Greg Benchwick Alaskans are remarkably generous people. I want to especially thank my great friends Kris and Jess Klain for their hospitality and rip-roaring adventures. Perry and Lois of Sound Paddler helped me review kayak information around Prince William Sound. My beautiful guide Ilene kept us afloat on our paddle to Columbia Glacier, and Stephanie in Seldovia is a chart-topping rock star. Huge props to my co-writers and my intrepid editors. My love for Alaska came from my Dad, Paul, and my friend for life, Julian. Catherine Bodry Researching guidebooks feels like a lonely endeavour until you begin adding up all the people who helped you along the way: Buckwheat in Skagway, Leslie in Haines, Darren on Prince of Wales, Jeanie in Wrangell, and Alexandra this time in Juneau! for restaurant recs. The LP A-Team: Alex, Sarah, Brendan, Greg, Alison Lyall and everyone working support. My peeps in Anchorage, and Alaska itself: so addicting and wonderful and my favorite place to call home. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, Cover photograph: Canoeing in Chugach National Forest, Michael DeYoung/Alamy.

2 425 BEHIND THE SCENES THIS BOOK This 11th edition of Lonely Planet s Alaska guidebook was researched and written by Brendan Sainsbury, Greg Benchwick and Catherine Bodry. The previous edition was written by Jim DuFresne, Catherine Bodry and Robert Kelly. This guidebook was produced by the following: Commissioning Editor Sarah Reid Destination Editor Alexander Howard Product Editors Kate James, Martine Power Senior Cartographer Alison Lyall Senior Layout Designer Katherine Marsh Assisting Editors Andrew Bain, Michelle Bennett, Justin Flynn, Victoria Harrison, Kate Kiely, Kellie Langdon, Anne Mulvaney, Erin Richards, Jeanette Wall, Simon Williamson Assisting Cartographer Hunor Csutoros Cover Researcher Naomi Parker Thanks to Sasha Baskett, Andi Jones, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Angela Tinson

3 426 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Index A accommodations 22, 408-9, see also individual locations activities 36-43, see also individual activities Admiralty Island National Monument 68-9, Afognak Island State Park 337 Aialik Bay 232 air travel to/from Alaska within Alaska 40, 418 Akutan 345 Alaska Bald Eagle Festival 31, 142 Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve 142 Alaska Day Festival 31, 113 Alaska Folk Festival 28, 126 Alaska Hwy (Alcan) 306-9, 379 Alaska Marine Highway ferry 11, 46, 344, 419 Alaska Native Heritage Center Alaska Native peoples 17, 88, 160-1, , 17, 366 Alaska Pipeline 197, 362, 381 Alaska Railroad 31, 166, 184, 421, 420 Alaska Sealife Center 223 Alaska State Capitol 117 Alaska State Fair 31, 190 Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center 185 Alaska Zoo 164 Alcan (Alaska Hwy) 306-9, 379 alcohol abuse 384, 390 Aleut people 327, 375, 377 Aleutian Campaign 349 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Aleutian Islands 11, , 11 Aleutian WWII National Historic Area Anaktuvuk Pass 365 Anan Creek Wildlife Observatory 95 Anchorage 13, 53, , 158, 162, 168, 13, 174 accommodations activities climate 156, 396 drinking & nightlife entertainment festivals & events food highlights 157, 157 information 179 shopping sights tours transportation Anchorage Museum 159, 174 Angoon 135 Aniakchak National Monument 337 Anton Larsen Pass Anvil Mountain 355 aquariums Alaska Sealife Center 223 Kodiak Fisheries Research Center 332 Macauley Salmon Hatchery 121 Prince of Wales Hatchery 90 Sitka Sound Science Center 109 archaeological sites K Beq Interpretive Site 235 Petroglyph Beach 95 Tangle Lakes Archeological District 291 Arctic Circle 362 Arctic National Wildlife Refuge 360 Arctic region area codes 414 art galleries, see museums & galleries Atigun Pass 363 ATMs 412 Auke Bay 125 aurora borealis 17, 297, 17 B bald eagles 31, 142, 406, 406 Baranov Museum 330 bargaining 23 Barometer Mountain 332 Barrow Bartlett Cove 136 baseball 296, 384 basketry bear watching 12, 25, 83 Admiralty Island Barrow 369 Denali National Park 267 Homer Katmai National Park 342, 343 Ketchikan 82 Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge 336 Sitka 112 Wrangell 95 Beardslee Islands 137 bears 400-1, 410, 12, 340, 367, 400, see also bear watching Beaver Creek Canoe Route 74-5, 74 beavers 403 belugas 404 Bering Land Bridge National Preserve 359 Berners Bay 125 berry picking 257 Bettles 365 Betton Island 84 bicycle travel, see cycling Big Delta State Historical Park 307 Big Salt Lake 92 birds 406 birdwatching Barrow 369 Copper River Delta 209 Creamer s Field Migratory Waterfowl Refuge 293 Kenai 243 Nome 356 Potter Marsh 181 Black Rapids Glacier 317 Blind River Rapids Boardwalk 104 Blueberry Festival 30, 85 boat cruises 44-8 Columbia Glacier 200 Fairbanks 296 Glacier Bay 137 Haines 144 Juneau 126 Kenai Fjords Ketchikan 85 Kodiak 333 Seldovia 258 Whittier 215 Yakutat 134 boat travel to/from Alaska 418 within Alaska 11, 46, 344, 419 Bomber Glacier 191 books 57, 372, 382, bore tide 182 Bristol Bay 374, 398, 398 Broad Pass 289 Brooks Falls 339 budget 21 Bunker Hill bus travel to/from Alaska 417 within Alaska 419, 421 bush planes 14, 40, 418

4 427 Bush, the 54, , 352 climate 396 highlights 352 travel seasons 351 business hours 21, 413 C cabins 37-8 Caines Head State Recreation Area 225 camping 27, 38, Canadian border 309, 310 canoeing, see paddling Cantwell 289 Captain Cook State Recreation Area 242 car travel 417, caribou 268, 401, 19, 403 Carroll Inlet 84 carvings Cavern Lake Cave 92 caving 92 cell phones 20, Central 304 Chena Dome Trail 70, 72, 72 Chena Hot Springs 303 Chena Hot Springs Road 302-4, 303 Chena Lakes Recreation Area 307 Chena River State Recreation Area 302 Chicken 18, , 18 Chief Shakes Hot Springs 98 Chief Shakes Island 95 Chignik 344 children, travel with Anchorage 164 Juneau 121 Kodiak 332 Chilkoot Trail 58-9, 58 Chitina Chugach National Forest 207, 206 Chugach people 377 cinema 374, 386 Circle 304 clam digging 244 climate 20, 395-6, see also individual regions climate change 293, 374, 394, 416 Cold Bay 345 Coldfoot 362 Columbia Glacier 199, 200 combat fishing 234 consulates 410 Cooper Landing copper 324 Copper Center 318 Copper River Delta 209 Copper River Delta Shorebird Festival 28, 209 Cordova , 204 Cordova Iceworm Festival 28, 209 Cordova Museum costs 21 Council 359 Creamer s Field Migratory Waterfowl Refuge 293 credit cards 412 Cross Admiralty Island Canoe Route 68-9, 68 cruising, see boat cruises currency 20, 412 customs regulations 409 cycling 38-9, Anchorage Cordova 208 Denali National Park 273 Fairbanks 295 Girdwood Haines 141 Haul Road 363 Homer 249 Juneau 121 Kodiak 333 Prince of Wales Island 91 Seldovia 257 Seward 226 Talkeetna D Dall sheep 402, 286 Dalton Highway 18, 360-4, 18 dangers, see safe travel Dawson City 310 Deadhorse 364 Deer Mountain 82-3 Delta Junction Delta River Canoe Route 291 Dena ina people 377 Denali Highway Denali National Park 19, , 270, 19 accommodations activities climate 396 courses 274 drinking entertainment 280 food highlights 264, 264 information 280 Park Road 265, planning 268 shopping 280 sights tours transportation travel seasons 262 Denali Star 16, 184, 16 Denali State Park 285, Denver Glacier 151 Dewey Lakes Trail System disabilities, travelers with 414 distances 413 diving Dixie Pass Route 69-70, 69 dog sledding 174 Denali National Park Fairbanks 296 Seward 226 Yukon Quest 28, 301 dolls 389 dolphins 404 driving 417, Donnelly Creek Dude Mountain 83 Dumpling Mountain 342 Dutch Harbor , 346 Dyea 150 E Eagle 312 Eagle River Eagle Summit 304 Eagle Trail State Recreation Site 313 eagles 31, 142, 406, 406 East Fork Toklat River 266 economy Eklutna El Capitan Cave 92 Eldred Passage 255 electricity 409, 413 Elliot Highway embassies 410 environmental disasters 202 environmental issues 45, 293, 373-4, 394, 398-9, 416 eskers 290 etiquette 23 events, see festivals & events exchange rates 21 Exit Glacier 233 Exxon Valdez 202 F Fairbanks , 294-5, 298 accommodations activities 295 climate 262 drinking 300 entertainment 300 festivals & events food information 301 shopping 301 sights tours transportation False Pass 345 Far North Bicentennial Park 162 ferry travel 11, 46, 344, 419 festivals & events Alaska Bald Eagle Festival 31, 142 Alaska Folk Festival 28, 126 Alaska State Fair 31, 190 Copper River Delta Shorebird Festival 28, 209 Cordova Iceworm Festival 28, 209 Gold Rush Days 31, 201 Kenai Peninsula State Fair 244 Nalukataq Festival 29, 369 Pridefest 178 Sitka Summer Music Festival 29, 113 World Eskimo-Indian Olympics 29, 384 film 374, 386 fish ladders Alaska Sealife Center 223 Macauley Salmon Hatchery 121 Prince of Wales Island 90 fishing 27, 40, 234 Cooper Landing 235 Copper Center 318 Homer Kodiak 333 Soldotna 240 Talkeetna 283 Flattop Mountain 165 flightseeing 40 INDEX B- F

5 428 INDEX F-J food 23, 410, see also individual locations Forgotten War 349 Fort Abercrombie State Historical Park 331 Fort Schwatka 347 Fort Seward 141 Fortymile River Fossil Beach 336 G galleries, see museums & galleries Gates of the Arctic National Park 364-5, 368, 367 Gavan Hill 110 gay travelers 178, geology George Inlet 84 George Parks Highway 281-5, 288-9, 286 Girdwood Girdwood Forest Fair 30, 181 Glacier Bay National Park & Preserve 15, 135-9, 15 glacier trekking 40-1 Matanuska Glacier 315 Mendenhall Glacier 120 Seward 226 glaciers 26, 41, 196, 392, 102 Aialik Glacier 232 Black Rapids Glacier 317 Columbia Glacier 199, 200 Denver Glacier 151 Exit Glacier 233 Glacier Bay 136 Hubbard Glacier 134 Kennicott Glacier 324 Knik Glacier 190 Laughton Glacier 151 LeConte Glacier Matanuska Glacier 315 Mendenhall Glacier 16, , 16 Muldrow Glacier 266 Portage Glacier Root Glacier 325, 287 Saddlebag Glacier 208 Valdez Glacier 199, 207 Glenn Highway 186-9, Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Glennallen gold panning 42 Chicken 311 Fairbanks 295, 296 Hope 220 Juneau Nome 354 Skagway 152 gold rush Gold Rush Days 31, 201 golf 95 Goose Lake Great Alaska Beer Train 31 Gull Island 255 Gustavus 136 H Haida people 376, 377 Haines , 140 Halibut Cove 255 Hallo Bay 343, 340 Harbor Mountain 110, 111 Harding Lake State Recreation Area 307 Hatcher Pass 191 health 411 heli-skiing 200 hiking 25, 36, 56-75, 263, 273, see also glacier trekking Anchorage Anvil Mountain 355 Barrow 369 Chena Dome Trail 70, 72, 72 Chena Hot Springs Road 302, 303 Chilkoot Trail 58-9, 58 Cooper Landing 235 Cordova 208 Denali National Park Denali State Park 288 Dixie Pass Route 69-70, 69 Eagle River Eklutna Gates of the Arctic National Park 365 Girdwood 182 Glacier Bay Haines Hatcher Pass 191 Homer 248 Hope 220 Iditarod National Historic Trail 64-5, 186-7, 225, 65 Juneau Kachemak Bay State Park 260 Katmai National Park 342 Kenai Fjords National Park Kenai National Wildlife Refuge 237 Kennecott 325 Kesugi Ridge/ Troublesome Creek Trail 72-4, 73 Ketchikan 82-3 Kodiak Mt McKinley 269 Nome 355 Palmer 190 Petersburg 101, 104 Petersburg Lake Trail 59-60, 59 planning 37 Prince of Wales Island 90-1 Resurrection Pass Trail 66-8, 67 Russian Lakes Trail 65-6, 66 Savage Alpine Trail 24, 272 Seldovia 257 Seward 225 Sitka Skagway Talkeetna Tangle Lakes Archeological District 291 Unalaska 348 Valdez Whittier Wrangell 95-7 history early Alaskans exploration gold rush oil discovery 381 statehood World War II 349, 379 hitchhiking holidays 413 Homer , 246-7, 250 accommodations activities drinking & nightlife 254 festivals & events 250 food information 254 shopping 254 sights transportation Hope 220-2, 221 hot springs Chena Hot Springs 303 Chief Shakes Hot Springs 98 Hutlinana Warm Springs 305 Manley Hot Springs 306 Pilgrim Hot Spings 359 Serpentine Hot Springs Tenakee Springs 132 White Sulphur Springs 114 Hubbard Glacier 134 Hungry Point Hutlinana Warm Springs 305 Hyder 91 I ice climbing 40-1 Iceworm Festival 28, 209 Iditarod 28, 385 Iditarod National Historic Trail 64-5, 186-7, 225, 65 immigration 416 Independence Mine State Historical Park 191 Indian River Trail 110 Indian Valley Mine 181 insurance 411, 419 Interior, the 54, climate 396 highlights 264, 264 internet resources 21, 57-8, 408 Isabel Pass 317 itineraries 32-5 Izembek National Wildlife Refuge 345 J Johnson Lake State Recreation Area 243 Juneau 18, 52, , , 122, 18, 103 accommodations activities climate 76 drinking 130 entertainment 130 festivals & events 126 food information shopping 131 sights tours 126, 128 transportation 133

6 429 K Kachemak Bay Shorebird Festival 29, 250 Kachemak Bay State Park Kaktovik 360 Kantishna 267 Katlian Bay 112 Katmai National Park 338-9, kayaking, see paddling K Beq Interpretive Site 235 Kenai Kenai Fjords National Park 19, 231-3, 19 Kenai National Wildlife Refuge 236-7, 240 Kenai National Wildlife Refuge Canoe Trail System 236 Kenai Peninsula 53, highlights 218, 218 transportation 219 travel seasons 217 Kenai Peninsula State Fair 244 Kendesnii Campground 24, 320 Kennecott Kennicott Glacier 324 Kesugi Ridge/Troublesome Creek Trail 72-4, 73 Ketchikan 80-8, 81 Keystone Canyon 319 Kincaid Park 163 King Cove 345, 11 King Salmon 338 Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park 149 Knik Glacier 190 Knob Lake 314 Kobuk Valley National Park 364 Kodiak Kodiak Crab Festival 29, 333 Kodiak Island 13, , 330, 13 Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge 336 Kougarok Road L Lake Clark National Park 339 language 20, 388, Last Train to Nowhere 359 laundry services 413 Lazy Mountain 190 LeConte Glacier legal matters lesbian travelers 178, Liberty Falls State Recreation Site 321 literature 384-6, see also books Little Norway Festival 29, 105 Livengood 305 Lost Lake 225 Lower Chatanika River State Recreation Area lynx 403, 402 M Magic Bus 279 Manley Hot Springs maps 412 masks 389 Matanuska Glacier 315 Matanuska Peak 190 Maxine & Jesse Whitney Museum McCarthy 12, McCarthy Road McHugh Lake 165 measures 413 Mendenhall Glacier 16, , 16 Mendenhall Lake Metlakatla 132 Microbrew Express 31 midnight sun 15 Midnight Sun Baseball Game 296 Midnight Sun Festival 29 Minto 305 Misty Fiords National Monument 60-1, 89-90, 60 mobile phones 20, money 20, 21, 412 discount cards 409 moose 267-8, 401 Moose Pass 222 Moose Pass Summer Solstice Festival 29, 222 Mosquito Cove Trail 111 motorcycle travel 417, motorhome travel 420 mountain biking, see cycling mountain goats 402 Mountain View 161 mountaineering 42-3 movies 374, 386 Mt Dewey 96 Mt Edgecumbe 111 Mt Eyak Ski Area Mt Marathon 225 Mt Marathon Race Mt McKinley 11, 265, 269, 272, 287, 10, 287, 395 Mt Riley 143 Mt Ripinsky 142 Mt Roberts Tramway 15, 118, 15 Mt Verstovia 111 Muldrow Glacier 266 murals 225 museums & galleries Anchorage Museum 159, 174 Baranov Museum 330 Cordova Museum Maxine & Jesse Whitney Museum Skagway Museum 149 Soldotna Homestead Museum 240 Southeast Alaska Discovery Center 80-1 University of Alaska Museum of the North 293 Wrangell Museum 94 music festivals 28, 29, 31, 113, 126, 227 MV Tustumena 344 N Nabesna Road 320 Naha Bay 84 Nalukataq Festival 29, 369 national monuments Admiralty Island National Monument 68-9, Aniakchak National Monument 337 Misty Fiords National Monument 60-1, 89-90, 60 national parks Denali National Park & Preserve 19, , 270, 19 Gates of the Arctic National Park 364-5, 368, 367 Glacier Bay National Park & Preserve 15, 135-9, 15 Katmai National Park 338-9, Kenai Fjords National Park 19, 231-3, 19 Kobuk Valley National Park 364 Lake Clark National Park 339 Wrangell-St Elias National Park Nenana 289 Nenana River 290 newspapers 413 Nikolaevsk 249 Ninilchik Noatak National Preserve 364 Nome 353-8, 354 Nome-Council Road Nome-Teller Road 360 North Pole 305 North Sister Mountain 332 North Tongass Highway 89 northern lights 17, 297, 17 Northern Panhandle O oil 362, 381 Old Believers 249 opening hours 21, 413 otters 403 outdoor activities 36-43, see also individual activities P Pack Creek paddling 41-2, 56-75, 207 Admiralty Island 135 Beaver Creek Canoe Route 74-5, 74 Cooper Landing 235 Cordova 209 Cross Admiralty Island Canoe Route 68-9, 68 Delta River Canoe Route 291 Eagle 312 Eklutna 188 Fairbanks 295 Gates of the Arctic National Park 365 Glacier Bay 137 Homer 249 Hope 220 Juneau Kachemak Bay State Park Katmai National Park 342, 341 Kenai Fjords National Park 19, 232, 19 INDEX K-P

7 430 INDEX P-S paddling continued Kenai National Wildlife Refuge Canoe Trail System 236 Ketchikan 83-4 Kodiak 333 Misty Fiords National Monument 60-1, 89-90, 60 Nenana River 290 Paxson 317 Petersburg Prince of Wales Island 92 Savonoski Loop 75, 75 Seldovia Seward 226 Sitka Stikine River 98 Swan Lake Canoe Route 70, 71 Tracy Arm-Fords Terror Wilderness 61-4, 61 Unalaska 348 Upper Tangle Lakes Canoe Route 291 Valdez Whittier Wrangell 97 Palin, Sarah 188 Palmer Park Road 265, Pasagshak River State Recreation Site 336 passports 416 Paxson 317 Pelican 132 Perseverance Lake 83 Petersburg 100-1, 104-7, 100 Petersburg Creek 104 Petersburg Lake Trail 59-60, 59 Petersburg Mountain 104 Petersburg Public Library 24, 106 Peterson Bay Field Station 260 Petroglyph Beach 95 Pilgrim Hot Springs 359 Pillar Mountain 332 Pioneer Park planning, see also individual regions Alaska basics 20-1 Alaska s regions 52-4 budgeting 21 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 calendar of events children, travel with 49-51, 121, 164, 332 Denali National Park 268 hiking 37 internet resources 21, 57-8, 408 itineraries 32-5 repeat visitors 24 travel seasons 20, Point Barrow Point Bridget State Park 121 polar bears 401, 367, 400 politics 373 Polychrome Pass Overlook 266 Poot Peak 260 population 373 Porcupine Creek State Recreation Site 313 porpoises 404 Portage Glacier postal services 413 Potter Marsh 181 Pridefest 178 Prince of Wales Island 90-4 Prince William Sound 53, highlights 195, 195 transportation 196 travel seasons 194 ptarmigan 406 public holidays 413 Pyramid Mountain 332 R radio 372 rafting 42 Denali National Park 274 Haines 143 Lake Clark National Park 339 Matanuska River 316 Skagway 151 Talkeetna 283 Rainbow Falls 96 Rainforest Islands Ferry 94 reindeer 388 Rendezvous Peak 165 Resurrection Pass Trail 66-8, 67 Richardson Highway river running 27, see also rafting rock climbing 42-3 Root Glacier 325, 287 Russian Jack Springs Park 162 Russian Lakes Trail 65-6, 66 RV travel 420 S Sable Pass Saddlebag Glacier 208 Sadie Cove 255 safe travel bears 410 glaciers 41, 196 hiking 263 hitchhiking Salcha River State Recreation Site 307 salmon 404 salmon bake 14, 14 Sand Point 344 Sandy Beach Recreation Area 101 Savage Alpine Trail 24, 272 Savonoski Loop 75, 75 Saxman Native Village & Totem Park 88 scenic flights 14, 40, 14 Anchorage Denali National Park 274 Fairbanks 295 Gates of the Arctic National Park 365 Girdwood 183 Haines 144 Juneau 126, 128 Kenai Fjords National Park 233 Nome 355 Seldovia 258 Talkeetna 283 Valdez 200 Wrangell-St Elias National Park 320 sea lions 404 seals 404, 405 Seduction Point Trail 143 Seldovia senior travelers 409 Serpentine Hot Springs Settler s Cove State Recreation Area 89 Seward , 224, 228 Seward Highway 181, , 239 Seward Music & Arts Festival 31, 227 Shakes Glacier 98 Shelikof Bay 112 Shoup Bay 199 Shuyak Island State Park 337 Sing Lee Alley 101 Sitka , Sitka National Historical Park 109 Sitka Summer Music Festival 29, 113 Sitka Whalefest 31, 113 Skagway , 148 Skagway Museum 149 skiing 200, Skilak Lake Road 237 Slana 320 smoking 413 snorkeling 84 Soldotna Soldotna Homestead Museum 240 Solomon 358 sourdough 23 South Tongass Highway 88-9 Southeast Alaska , 78-9 highlights 78 travel seasons 76 Southeast Alaska Discovery Center 80-1 Southeast Alaska State Fair 30 Southern Panhandle Spenard Jazz Fest 29, 167 sports 384 St Lazaria Island National Wildlife Refuge 112 St Michael s Cathedral 107, 102 Stan Price State Wildlife Sanctuary 134 state parks Afognak Island State Park 337 Denali State Park 285, Kachemak Bay State Park Point Bridget State Park 121 Shuyak Island State Park 337 Totem Bight State Park 89 statehood Steese Highway 304 Sterling Highway Stevens, Ted 380 Stikine River 98 Stookum Pass 359

8 431 suicide 384, 390 Sukakpak Mountain 363 surfing 43, 134 Swan Lake Canoe Route 70, 71 T taiga 394 Taku Inlet 125 Talkeetna Tangle Lakes Archeological District 291 tax 413 taxi travel 421 Taylor Highway Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport telephone services television 372, 386, 413 Teller 360 temperate forest 394 Tenakee Springs 132 Tern Lake Junction 234 Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge 309 Thomas Basin 82 Thomas Bay 105 Thompson Pass 319 Thoms Lake 97 Thunderbird Falls 187 time 20, 414 tipping 23, 412 Tlingit people 77, 88, 109, 376, 377 Tok Tok Cutoff Totem Bight State Park 89 tourist information 414 tours 57, 418, see also boat cruises Anchorage Columbia Glacier 200 Dalton Highway 361 Denali National Park Girdwood 183 Glacier Bay 137 Haines Kenai Fjords National Park Ketchikan 84-5 Nome Petersburg 105 Seldovia 258 Sitka Skagway Whittier 215 Tracy Arm-Fords Terror Wilderness 61-4, 61 train travel 31, 166, 184, 421, 420 Trans-Alaska Pipeline 197, 362, 381 travel seasons 20, travel to/from Alaska travel within Alaska trekking, see glacier trekking, hiking Troublesome Creek Trail (Kesugi Ridge) 72-4, 73 tundra Turnagain Pass 219 Tustumena 344 Tutka Bay 255 TV 372, 386, 413 U Unalaska , 346 Uniktali Bay 348 University of Alaska Museum of the North 293 Upper Summit Lake 219 Upper Tangle Lakes Canoe Route 291 V vacations 413 Valdez , 198 Valdez Glacier 199, 207 Valley of a Thousand Smokes 339 visas 20, volunteering 415 W walruses 404 Ward Lake 83 Wasilla 188 weather 20, 395-6, see also individual regions websites 21 accommodations 408 hiking & paddling 57-8 weights 413 West Chichagof 112 whale watching 27 Glacier Bay 137 Juneau 125 Petersburg 105 Sitka 112 whales 403-4, 12 white-water rafting, see rafting, river running Whittier wilderness cabins 125, 226-7, 103 wildlife 400-6, 287 wildlife centers & preserves Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve 142 Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center 185 Anan Creek Wildlife Observatory 95 Stan Price State Wildlife Sanctuary 134 wildlife refuges Arctic National Wildlife Refuge 360 Creamer s Field Migratory Waterfowl Refuge 293 Izembek National Wildlife Refuge 345 Kenai National Wildlife Refuge 236-7, 240 Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge 336 St Lazaria Island National Wildlife Refuge 112 Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge 309 Willow Lake 318 Winner Creek Gorge 182 Wiseman 363 Wolverine Peak 165 wolves 268, women travelers 415 World Eskimo-Indian Olympics 29, 384 Wrangell , 96 Wrangell Museum 94 Wrangell-St Elias National Park WWII 349, 379 Y Yakutat 134 Yukon Quest 28, 301 Yukon River Bridge 361 Z ziplining 24 Juneau Ketchikan 84 Seward 226 Talkeetna 283 zoos 164 INDEX S-Z

9 432 NOTES

10 433 NOTES

11 434 NOTES

12 435 NOTES

13 436 NOTES

14 437 NOTES

15 438 NOTES

16 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 439 Map Legend Sights Beach Bird Sanctuary Buddhist Castle/Palace Christian Confucian Hindu Islamic Jain Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Ruin Shinto Sikh Taoist Winery/Vineyard Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Other Sight Activities, Courses & Tours Bodysurfing Diving Canoeing/Kayaking Course/Tour Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Skiing Snorkeling Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Activity Sleeping Eating Sleeping Camping Eating Drinking & Nightlife Drinking & Nightlife Cafe Entertainment Entertainment Shopping Shopping Information Bank Embassy/Consulate Hospital/Medical Internet Police Post Office Telephone Toilet Tourist Information Other Information Geographic Beach Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall Population Capital (National) Capital (State/Province) City/Large Town Town/Village Transport Airport BART station Border crossing Boston T station Bus Cable car/funicular Cycling Ferry Metro/Muni station Monorail Parking Petrol station Subway/SkyTrain station Taxi Train station/railway Tram Underground station Other Transport Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book Routes Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed road Road under construction Plaza/Mall Steps Tunnel Pedestrian overpass Walking Tour Walking Tour detour Path/Walking Trail Boundaries International State/Province Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall Hydrography River, Creek Intermittent River Canal Water Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Reef Areas Airport/Runway Beach/Desert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Glacier Mudflat Park/Forest Sight (Building) Sportsground Swamp/Mangrove

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