REACHING NEW HEIGHTS. Tanzania

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1 RACHING NW HIGHTS lwhen word of snow-cpped mountin on st Afric s equtoril plins reched urope in the mid-19th century, the public, nd London s Royl Geogrphic Society, scoffed t such n unbelievble notion. Although Kilimnjro is now one of Afric s gretest icons, it must be sid tht the ide of it is no less stounding. Incredibly, the sense of disbelief in people typiclly reches its zenith when they first set eyes on the mighty mountin. Whether ctching glimpse of it on cler dy from Nirobi, some 200km wy, or witnessing its glcited summit suddenly mterilise on bed of clouds, ppering to hover lmost five kilometres bove golden svnnh peppered with elephnts, Kilimnjro seems more fit for drem thn ny relity. Fitting then, tht Afric s tllest mountin plys prt in so mny people s drems. ch yer, thousnds of visitors ttempt to fulfil their lofty mbitions by climbing Kilimnjro, Afric s tllest mountin nd one of the plnet s coveted Seven Summits. Although there is much working in their fvour mild climte, esily ccessible slopes, n bundnce of porters nd guides, nd no need for technicl climbing bilities mny don t mke it to the top. Jeremy Gne, the mn responsible for recently getting ll 34 of the Comic Relief tem to the summit, nd someone with more thn twenty Kili climbs to his nme, is here to help you stnd on the top of Afric. 76 Trvel Afric Summer 2009

2 SPCIAL FA A UR KILIANJ A OUNTKILIA AN ANJ SPCIAL FA A UR Summer 2009 Trvel Afric 77

3 l TH GOAL A OUNTKILIA AN ANJ Looming lrge over the st Africn svnnh, nd providing wht is rgubly the most spectculr sunrise venue in Afric, is the mjestic summit of Kilimnjro. Set t the uppermost rech of the Kobo crter rim, Uhuru Pek is not just the top of the mountin it is the top of the entire continent. However, Kilimnjro hs much much more to offer you thn just the bility to bg Afric s highest summit. In mtter of dys you ll climb from the qutor to wht feels like the Arctic, moving through grsslnds, tropicl rinforest, lpine medows, moorlnd nd desert uplnds to snow nd ice. Along the wy you cn trce the grnd process of evolution in reverse: from the nimls of the forest to the first stirrings of bcteril life on the summit. And while climbing Kilimnjro will inspire you to greter levels of physicl nd mentl strength, your efforts on the mountin cn lso benefit ns. uch like your guide nd enthusistic porters help you chieve gret heights, your tourist dollrs help hundreds, both directly nd indirectly, in the n tourist industry. For those of you wishing to rech Uhuru Pek for chrity of your choice, the rewrds of your efforts re compounded even more. SPCIAL FA A UR l Body nd mind PR-TRIP PRPARIONS Preprtion is criticl to improving the chnce of success on the mountin. The fct tht 17 per cent of physiclly fit climbers fll victim to Acute ountin Sickness (AS), compred to 44 per cent of those who re not in good shpe, only underlines the importnce of creting or mintining good level of fitness before your first step on Kilimnjro. Physicl fitness nd rediness for the trek cn be best chieved by working on the muscles tht you will use on your climb. While legs re the obvious trgets, your bdominl core is lso key to voiding bck problems. As erobic fitness will help you cope with the thin ir, crdiovsculr workouts re lso wise. If you go to gym, sk one of the triners to put together suitble progrmme for you; it should include simple core fitness routines, the step mchine nd the tredmill with incresing inclines. Outside the gym, the best trining for hill trekking is wit for it hill trekking, so get out nd try wlking for incresing lengths of time with dypck weighing up to 8kg. Don t forget to spend time wlking down hills s well. The preprtion is not just physicl though, s the difficult conditions on the trip will lso test you mentlly. If you re lredy over the hurdle of ccepting life of tents, long-drop toilets, lukewrm wter for wshing, nd extreme conditions, which cn rnge from bking hot to wet nd freezing cold, you re on your wy. 78 Trvel Afric Summer 2009

4 SPCIAL FA A UR KILIANJ Finding the perfect opertor With seemingly endless rry of tour opertors offering Kilimnjro experiences, there re some importnt questions you need to sk to ensure tht your climb is s sfe nd enjoyble s possible. Qulifictions nd experience Ask bout the qulifictions, trining nd experience of their stff. n Kilimnjro guides must hve Kilimnjro Ntionl Prk (KINAPA) qulifictions. First id qulifictions re lso importnt. Additionl trining in locl flor nd fun, nd in foreign lnguges is lso good indictor of qulity service. Choose locl guides whenever possible. n guides with good opertors not only hve fr more experience on Kilimnjro thn those from overses, but they re lso key prt of the locl economy, spreding their income round the greter community. Deling with n emergency Ask the tour opertor how they hndle n emergency. They should hve solid nswers tht del with ll spects of potentil sitution: evcution from the mountin, communiction fcilities, which hospitls re used etc. Ressure yourself tht you will be rescued sfely nd your fmily informed if you re injured or tken ill. Trnsport Cn trnsfers be orgnised sfely nd efficiently from your point of rrivl in /Keny to the pre-climb hotel, nd then on to Kili the next dy? Wht vehicles do they use? Are they insured for tour opertion? Acclimtistion Ask the tour opertor how their itinerry will help you cclimtise to ltitude. Stff welfre Does the compny hve policy for stff welfre, pyment nd tipping? Are they member or prtner of n ethicl tourism ssocition such s the Interntionl ountin xplorers Connection (IC)? Are they tking prt in the IC s Prtnership for Responsible Trvel nd/or the Porter Assistnce Project? Are clothes, food nd tents provided for stff on Kilimnjro? A well looked-fter crew will look fter you well. nvironment How does the climb compny protect the environment? Ask bout removl of rubbish, ltrines, etc. Cost There re plenty of chep options for climbing Kilimnjro, but they re not necessrily sfe or successful, nd the locl stff my be poorly treted. Prices should include: trnsfers to nd from the mountin, ll prk nd rescue fees, full bord on the climb, of t lest three support stff to ech climber, nd qulity cmping equipment. Wht to pck ost opertors provide items such s tents nd cooking equipment, so you ll most likely be required to only bring personl items. As conditions re so vried, pck for ll wethers. Severl opertors lso provide items such s sleeping bgs, sleeping mts, down jckets nd rin ger, so double check with them before your deprture. Among the essentils, you will need: Lrge wterproof kitbg or rucksck (60-90litres) Wterproof dypck (30-40litres) Four-seson sleeping bg with t lest -10 degrees Celsius rting (A fleece liner is gret ide) Qulity sleeping mt such s Therm--Rest (both for comfort nd ground insultion) Sturdy hiking boots with nkle support (wer these in before your trip) Wterproof windbreker nd trousers Down jcket or insulted ski jcket (essentil for summit night) Therml underwer Blclv or insulted ht Insulted gloves/mittens & therml inner gloves Sunht, sun lotion nd sunglsses Insect repellent nd mlri prophylctic Wter purifiction filter or tblets Bsic first id kit (plsters, s, ntiseptic, support bndges, spirin, Imodium, lip blm etc) Telescopic wlking poles with rubber tips The tllest free-stnding mountin in the world? Although mny consider Kilimnjro the tllest free-stnding mountin on the plnet heck, there s sign stting s much on the summit itself the volcno s clim to the title is not cler-cut. Kili s grip on the moniker depends on very subjective definition of one word. The word? Ner. To determine the lrgest free-stnding mountin, geogrphers mesure the freestnding rise of the summit over the lowest closed contour line tht encircles, nd stys ner, the summit. If 50km rdius is considered ner, Kilimnjro retins the title s the lowest contour tht mkes the grde is 1395m, giving Kili free-stnding rise of 4500m. However, if 75km is used, Columbi s Pico Cristóbl Colón tkes the prize with free-stnding rise of 5000m. If the rdius is expnded to 120km then Hwii s un Ke volcno is top dog it rises over 10,203m from the bottom of the Pcific Ocen. Summer 2009 Trvel Afric 79

5 l ON TH OUNIN SPCIAL FA A OUNTKILIA AN ANJ A UR Tking cre of yourself The mjority of individuls who set off to tckle Kilimnjro complete their trip without ny undue mishp. However, the mountin should not be tken lightly s there re very rel dngers lurking. Besides the usul trveller s complints, like sunburn, stomch upsets nd blisters, the min problem on Kilimnjro is the potentil for Acute ountin Sickness (AS). This is very serious condition, which cn ffect nyone. ost individuls hve the bility to dpt to ltitude, if they expose themselves to it sufficiently slowly. However cclimtistion tkes different lengths of time for ech individul. While physicl fitness reduces the chnces of being ffected by AS, it doesn t gurntee tht you won t be ffected by it. It s often the cse tht fit people climb too quickly for their own good, nd rush into AS. Also tke note tht the younger you re, the more susceptible you re to getting AS. As you gin ltitude the ir gets thinner, the pressure drops nd there is less oxygen vilble in the tmosphere. Consequently your lungs nd hert hve to work hrder to oxygente your body. As the mount of oxygen in the lungs decreses, the blood becomes less efficient t cquiring nd trnsporting oxygen. rly signs tht you re suffering from AS include hedche, disturbed sleep, loss of ppetite, nuse, dizziness nd lssitude nd vomiting. If ny of these symptoms become pprent, you should puse until they hve pssed. Be creful s AS cn ffect your bility to mke sound decisions. As long s the symptoms remin mild you cn continue to scend slowly. If they persist, consider descending to lower elevtion t once. If the symptoms worsen, you run the risk of developing High Altitude Cerebrl Oedem or High Altitude Pulmonry Oedem, both severe, potentilly ftl versions of AS. The tretment for these conditions is to descend immeditely to lower ltitude. As you lose height, the symptoms should bte, then dispper. The golden rules for voiding AS re s follows. Don t try to mke n scent within 24 hours of flying. Ascend slowly. If you strt to feel the onset of AS symptoms, go no higher. If the symptoms persist, descend t once. A drug clled Dimox cn be useful in the prevention of AS. Studies show tht low doses (250mg per dy) of it reduce the incidence of AS this is result tht I hve lso noted on successive Kili climbs. Unlike dexmethsone, this drug does not msk the symptoms but ctully trets the problem. However, if symptoms persist, descend immeditely. Discuss tking Dimox with your doctor before deprture. Other things you cn do to sty sfe nd helthy re to remin hydrted, mintin good stndrd of personl hygiene nd lwys stick to pproved pths. 80 Trvel Afric Summer 2009

6 O SPCIAL FA A UR KILIANJ Climbing for chrity As Kilimnjro represents such n obvious chllenge, it is no surprise tht so mny people ttempt to conquer it for worthy cuse. y compny, Chrity Chllenge, which is the UK s leding dventure trvel compny specilising exclusively in interntionl fundrising expeditions, hs seen Kilimnjro treks sitting in our top three rnked itinerries for the pst ten yers. Prticipnts cn cover the full cost of the chllenge, which mens every penny they rise benefits the chrity. Alterntively, they cn py deposit nd commit to rising minimum in sponsorship (typiclly round 3750). Approximtely 45 per cent will go towrds covering their costs nd ll remining monies re retined by the chrity. Trekkers cn support ny UK or Irish-registered chrity nd Chrity Chllenge does everything possible to support them. Climbing Kili for chrity mkes reching the summit ll the more rewrding. For more informtion, visit www. chritychllenge.com The Comic Relief climb Gry Brlow first pproched us t Chrity Chllenge bout stging the BT Red Nose Climb lst summer. By December we were working lmost seven dys week on plnning nd preprtion for the event. We weren t the only ones working though, s ll those mking the trip invested in rising their fitness levels, some of whom hd mountin to climb in this respect before leving the country. The tough conditions nd extreme wether fced by these high-profile clients were the sme s ny other group would experience. There ws lots of cmrderie nd the celebrities often lughed nd joked bout the enormous chnge to their lifestyles on Kilimnjro. However, wht mde the expedition such mmmoth project ws not the celebrities, but the chllenge of trnsmitting the event to numerous medi outlets ech dy. This required tem of 25 people from the medi, Comic Relief nd Chrity Chllenge, s well s 140-strong n support tem. Around 800kg of medi equipment ws flown out to Afric nd there were two editing suites set up t the bse of the mountin. All the medi nd climbing ger were trnsported sfely up nd down the mountin nd ech medi tem (six in ll) hd their own dedicted porters nd guides. The n support tem, led by the imposing chief guide mnuel, were completely unfzed by their high-profile clients, due in prt to their lck of celebrity knowledge. The tem mnged the logistics mzingly well, ensuring the cmp ws in plce ech evening nd, most importntly, enbling everybody to summit. Comic Relief set gol of providing n nti-mlri net to every child under five in, nd the climb went long wy towrds chieving tht s it rised very impressive 3.36 million. CHRIS JACKSON / COIC RLIF / GTTY IAGS Tking cre of Kilimnjro With tens of thousnds of people on Kilimnjro s slopes ech yer, environmentl degrdtion of this UNSCO World Heritge Site is rel possibility. To ensure the helth of mountin, KINAPA hs set guidelines on environmentl protection tht should be respected. Following these rules will help to minimise your impct. Remove ll litter, even if this mens picking up rubbish left by other trekkers Smokers should collect mtches nd cigrette butts nd dispose of them cotrrectly (butts re fire hzrd, tke yers to decompose nd cn hrm wildlife) Don t pollute wter resources Gs cnisters re to be used for cooking (no cmp fires llowed for ny reson) Sty on the tril (going off the beten trck dmges sensitive soil nd vegettion) Don t pick up or disturb ny of the flor or fun found on the mountin Birth of gint olten lv, tking dvntge of frcture splying off the Gret Rift Vlley, burst through the erth s wekened surfce round three-qurters of million yers go, pushing up prt of the continent s crust in the process. The Shir volcno, the oldest in the Kilimnjro ssif, ws born. After successive eruptions dding to the volcno s height, it collpsed, forming mssive clder lmost hlf million yers go. However it wsn t long before more eruptions occurred, building the mountin bck up gin. These new volcnic deposits formed the second of Kilimnjro s three volcnoes, wenzi, the remnnts of which re still visible tody. Then, 50,000 yers or so lter, immense volcnic ctivity occurred just west of wenzi, creting Kibo, Kili s youngest volcno. Further eruptions, cused by continued pressure beneth the crust, gretly dded to the mssif s size. One such event led to lv spilling out of Kibo s crter nd down into the Shir clder, s well s round the bse of wenzi, forming the so-clled Sddle seen on the mountin tody. Since then, less violent ctivity hs led to the formtion of chin of prsitic crters running cross the mountin. One of them, known s the Reusch Crter, sits within the Kibo summit itself. It ws formed little over 200 yers go, mrking the most recent volcnic ctivity of note. While Shir nd wenzi re clssified s extinct volcnoes, the smell of sulphur emnting from the Reusch Crter will be enough to convince you tht dormnt Kibo hsn t hd its lst dy in the sun. Summer 2009 Trvel Afric 81

7 OU A AN J l KING IT TO TH TOP: TH ROUTS SPCIAL FA Kilimnjro offers rewrding rnge of wys to the summit, which vry in degrees of difficulty, scenic beuty nd trekker trffic, so if you re considering tking up the chllenge, crefully select the one tht best suits you. A UR 1 ARANGU rngu is the originl trekking route on Kilimnjro nd it psses through very beutiful lndscpes, including the we-inspiring Sddle between the peks of Kibo nd wenzi. The lower section strts in griculturl res, before moving through cloud forest dotted with wild orchids. After you ve pssed round the bse of the undi Crter, you ll enter the moorlnd re, from where you ll mke steep scent through the brrenness. A rocky tril will led you to the Hns eyer Cve, nd eventully to Gillmn s Point. From there, it is slog up through the snow to the summit. rngu is by fr the busiest wy up Kilimnjro. It s populr for two min resons: it s one of the esiest wys up the mountin, nd it s typiclly the chepest option. The ltter fctor is often the cse becuse some opertors foolishly undercut others by offering shorter, five-dy climbs. ven the six-dy scent cn be risky in regrd to cclimtistion, nd therefore the lrge numbers ttempting to do rngu in dy less hve led to the summit success rte on this route being round 40 per cent. It is the only route tht offers sleeping huts with beds nd mttresses, though they hrdly qulify s luxurious ccommodtion the lrge number of climbers lso mens there is often insufficient room vilble. The crowded nture of this route is its worst ttribute. Thnks to the cmps selling soft drinks, minerl wter nd beer, the rngu hs been dubbed the Coc Col route. Although some routes llow you the option of descending down different pth, giving you wider view of Kilimnjro s incredible lndscpes, this is not the cse with rngu if you climb it, you must come down it. Above: Some of the routes up Kilimnjro tke you through rich rinforests crpetted with moss nd other vegettion Below: Kili from the Shir plteu 2 SHIRA String on the west of the Kilimnjro mssif, Shir runs roughly prllel to the Lemosho route. Widely considered to be mong the most scenic routes up Kilimnjro, it lso provides plenty of wildlife viewing opportunities. It must be sid tht the first two dys of rinforest on the Lemosho route re infinitely preferble to Shir, which commences on 4WD trck through tree plnttions nd heth. The dvntge of the Shir route is tht it is possible to include visit to the north flnk of Kilimnjro within n eight-dy progrmme. A stndrd climb stright up Shir without this excursion is usully done in seven dys. This is possible s Shir strts t higher elevtion, using vehicle to bypss much of the lowlnd rinforest tht the Lemosho route embrces. This does men tht you ll hve less time to cclimtise, which my led to problems with AS. However, if you re in excellent physicl shpe, you ll hve n extremely good chnce of reching Kilimnjro s Uhuru Pek on this route. It s mndtory for those climbing up Lemosho to descend vi the wek route on Kili s southern flnk. 82 Trvel Afric Summer 2009

8 09 L F U KILIANJ R R SP C IA O JAR KILI 20 3 RONGAI Strting just south of the Kenyn border, this rewrding route is once gin possibility for climbers it ws lmost completely unused for mny yers due to the re being considered too sensitive. ny experienced guides consider this scent route to be both esier nd more beutiful thn the min rngu tril. Beginning in ttrctive frmlnd nd progressing into delightful forest, which offers you the possibility of wildlife viewing, Rongi psses through severl different climtic zones, dding considerble interest to the trek. The stndrd itinerry is six dys, but n dditionl dy cn esily be dded to ensure mximum cclimtistion nd to give you more opportunities to view the mgnificent scenery. The extr dy cn be used to enjoy detour to the beutiful wenzi Trn (one of my fvourite plces on Kilimnjro) vi little-used tril through moorlnd. The finl scent uses the sme section of tril s the rngu route. As with ll the routes, you will be rewrded with stunning sunrise over the glciers nd ice cliffs of the summit nd cross the st Africn plins. This route retins sense of unspoilt wilderness, nd offers different perspective on Kilimnjro by pproching it from the north. It s lso usully drier option thn the southern lterntives. Rongi is for scents only, so you will usully descend vi rngu. All prk fees nd rrngements must be mde t the rngu gte before strting t the Rongi trilhed. In mtter of dys you ll climb from the qutor to wht feels like the Arctic, moving through grsslnds, tropicl rinforest, lpine medows, moorlnd nd desert uplnds to snow nd ice A dediction Dvid Pluth grciously llowed us to use vivid imges from his book Kilimnjro The Gret White ountin of Afric for this feture. We were sddened by his recent deth nd dedicte this edition of Trvel Afric to him Summer 2009 Trvel Afric 83

9 O NJ SPCIAL FA A UR KILIANJ SPCIAL FA A UR Above: The chme route provides some stunning vists of Kilimnjro s upper slopes Right: Strting in the lush forests of the southwest, chme is now the most populr of the wilderness routes Below: Climbing the Western Brech 4 LOSHO The Lemosho route pproches Kilimnjro through forest nd moorlnd from the west, eventully crossing the clder of Shir Plteu s it heds to the visully drmtic southern flnk. This option tkes you under the southern ice fields of Kibo, before spilling you out onto the Brfu route, on which you ll mke your finl scent to the summit. Brfu itself is not complete route from bse to summit, but rther section of higher tril tht connects the south circuit with Stell Point nd Uhuru Pek. It is shred by severl min routes: Lemosho, Shir, chme nd Umbwe. Lemosho is reltively little-used nd unspoilt pproch route, nd the rinforest is prticulrly beutiful on this prt of the mountin. When I first climbed Lemosho there ws only one other compny sending climbers long it. Now there re severl, but it still remins gret wilderness experience, especilly on the first three dys of the climb. Time spent wlking cross the wilderness of the Shir Plteu gives you good chnce to get used to the ltitude before tckling the busy Brfu route to the summit. It s not unusul to observe nimls like elephnts nd bufflo in the forest round the Lemosho gldes. Itinerries on this route re longer, rnging from seven to nine dys, which obviously mkes them more expensive. With nine dys on Lemosho, diversion to the wild, forbidding nd rrely-visited northern flnk tht overlooks Keny my be tken this itinerry is possibly the best for giving you gret overview of Kilimnjro, s well s providing you with the mximum chnce of reching the summit. As is the cse if you climb the Shir route, you must descend the wek route on Kilimnjro s southern flnk. This is lso the cse if you climb up vi the chme route. Although this mens you don t finish where you strted, you do see more of the mountin nd its unique environment. 5 ACHA The chme route pproches Kilimnjro through forest nd moorlnd from the southwest, nd eventully psses through volcnic desert. It joins the Shir route before trversing beneth the southern ice fields of Kibo, nd leds you to the Brfu Ridge cmp, from where you ll trek to the summit long the Brfu route. Considering chme psses through diverse vegettion nd offers wide-eyed views, it s no wonder tht over 30 per cent of ll climbers now use it it is now the most populr of the wilderness routes. With tough tril through the rin nd long, steep dys of wlking, chme is physiclly more chllenging thn rngu. There re lso no huts only tented ccommodtion is llowed. The trek on summit night tends to be bout n hour shorter thn if you cme vi rngu s you rech the rim nerer to Uhuru Pek. As is the cse if you climb the Lemosho or Shir routes, you must descend the wek route. 6 WSTRN BRACH The Western Brech is n lterntive tril to the summit in plce of the Brfu route, nd you cn use it if you wish to get into the crter. I ve hd some wonderful climbs up it nd relly enjoyed cutting through the brech onto the floor of the crter itself. However the recent wrming of the climte hs led to n incresed dnger of rockfll due to the melting of the djcent Arrow Glcier. KINAPA closed the route fter trgedy in 2006 in which some porters nd tourists were killed. It hs since been reopened, though the route is open only to climbers with technicl experience nd who re being led by qulified technicl guide. The group must obtin specil permits nd crry ropes, ice xes nd wer sfety helmets. Summer 2009 Trvel Afric 85

10 O NJ SPCIAL FA A UR KILIANJ SPCIAL FA A UR p v Above: A view of Kili from ount eru. Climbing eru is recommended before ttempting the chllenging Umbwe route Right, top: The Umbwe route strts in the lower forests nd offers direct two-dy pproch to Brrnco Cmp Right, bottom: Tented up in the Summit Crter Cmp 7 UBW Considered one of the toughest trekking routes, Umbwe offers you direct two-dy pproch to Brrnco Cmp t 3940m from the south. This is clerly dngerous elevtion gin over the first two dys, so I would recommend climbing ount eru before tking on Umbwe this is n ttrctive combintion climb for those of you with more time. Due to its difficulty, there re obviously fewer people on it thn most other routes. From Brrnco Cmp you ll hed up to Brfu Ridge, before scending to the summit up the Brfu Route. Descriptions of the Umbwe climb in some guidebooks seem to be written up by uthors who hve not ctully climbed the route. In truth, underfoot on Umbwe it is reltively esy s long s the trekker is prepred to do some scrmbling on the second dy during the pproch to Brrnco. There re obviously fewer people on this route, nd if you ttempt to do it on its own without cclimtising on eru or elsewhere you re less likely to summit. 8 CIRCUIT CLIB The Circuit Climb is the most wonderful wy to see the entire Kilimnjro mssif, but it requires ten dys nd nine nights on the mountin. The route follows the circuit tril tht goes right round the mountin t reltively high ltitude, typiclly between 3000 nd 4000m. This simple tril is used by the ntionl prk dministrtion for ccessing the entire mssif, nd lso s trining route for Kilimnjro guides. As you get onto the remote north flnk, there is lwys n element of excitement nd risk present rescue from the north tkes longer nd is more difficult. It is so remote here tht elnd possessing long cots especilly to del with the cold Kilimnjro nights re often seen. We hve lso encountered the occsionl bufflo tht hs come to lick minerls from the nturl cves high on the slopes of Kilimnjro. And, kid you not, we hve even seen lion pug mrks high on the remote slopes here! However, there is one thing tht you re unlikely to see up here nother climbing group. All in the nme? Uhuru Pek (5895m), which is the mountin s officil pex, received its nme in 1961, the yer of its ntion s independence from the United Kingdom. Appropritely, uhuru trnsltes s freedom in Swhili. The former nme Kiser-Wilhelm-Spitze ws given to the pek in 1889 by Hns eyer, the first uropen to rech the summit, in honour of the then recently decesed Prussin leder, Wilhelm I ( ). While the summit, the highest point on the entire Africn continent, remins the ultimte gol for most. 9 NORTH FLANK This unique scent ws first climbed in June 1999 by Julius ing, n climber, nd me. The route (lso known s ountin dness) offers the toughest trekking progrmme on Kilimnjro, nd includes chnce to cross Kibo s crter from north to south it is route climbed by no other compny. Trekking round to the north side of Kilimnjro is relly step into the unknown. If you cn cope with the thought tht you re further from rescue in the event of ccident or illness thn on other routes, it is n experience to be recommended. Summer 2009 Trvel Afric 87

11 O NJ SPCIAL FA A UR KILIANJ SPCIAL FA A UR l The Summit Almost everyone who s reched Uhuru Pek remembers the Kilimnjro summit bid s milestone in his or her life. y very first summit, in the monsoon of April 1991, ws noted s follows: Still following in our guide s footsteps through the knee-deep snow, we reched the crter rim gsping for ir. Suddenly, s we pproched Uhuru Pek, the snowfll cesed nd the whole of Afric, or so it seemed, ws suddenly opened up to us. Looking down from the Arctic-esque summit to the cci dotted svnnh five kilometres below ws pure mgic. I tried to void the monsoon nd snow sesons on successive climbs, yet without exception, ech summit night ws tough nd felt never ending. But dwn t Stell Point, nd the wlk to Uhuru Pek lwys brings feeling of eltion. The Comic Relief group consisted of nine celebrities nd vst crew of medi nd support personnel. The rtists split into three groups on summit night s 130km per hour winds ssulted them through the long drk night. The entire tem reched the summit, though the first group rrived four hours before the lst. Alesh Dixon ws the lst celebrity up, nd I shll lwys remember the powerful phlnx of n guides helping her drive forwrd up the lst rmp of scree to the summit. They climbed longside her throughout the preceding six hours, lterntely singing strong rhythmic songs nd offering words of encourgement, while the ferocious winds chilled everyone to the core. Without their incredible resilience, hrd work nd goodhumoured ssistnce, Alesh could not hve mde it. The descent is lwys chrcterised by eltion, exhustion nd irrittion (bse cmp lwys seems out of rech). ost trekkers tke round six hours to rech cmp, so their climb nd descent will hve lsted over twelve hours. It s lot to sk of the humn body nd soul, mking it dy one never forgets! The mountin hs cptivting ur of its own nd those who tred its mighty slopes, whether they rech the summit or not, will leve with feelings of respect nd wonder not to mention memories for lifetime. p Jeremy Gne is director of Chrity Chllenge ( nd hs more thn twenty Kilimnjro climbs to his credit. Still following in our guide s footsteps through the knee-deep snow, we reched the crter rim gsping for ir. Suddenly the snowfll cesed nd the whole of Afric, or so it seemed, ws suddenly opened up to us The Seven Summits verest, Nepl-Tibet, Asi (8848m) Aconcgu, Argentin, South Americ (6962m) Denli (ount ckinley), Alsk, North Americ (6195m) Kilimnjro,, Afric (5963m) lbrus, Russi, urope (5633m) Vinson ssif, Antrctic (4897m) *Punck Jy (Crstensz Pyrmid), Indonesi, Austrlsi/Oceni (4884m) * As some people believe tht Austrli is continent (insted of Austrlsi/Oceni), Austrli s ount Kosciuszko (2228m) ppers on severl versions of the Seven Summit list insted of Punck Jy. Summer 2009 Trvel Afric 89

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