Altitude 6,959m (22,830ft) / 23 Days / Grade 1C

Transcription

1 Altitude 6,959m (22,830ft) / 23 Days / Grade 1C Aconcagua is the highest mountain in both the western and southern hemispheres the sole remaining quadrant being given over to the Himalaya. It's also the second highest of the illustrious Seven Summits. Of the highest points on each of the world s continents, only Everest gives a higher vantage point. However, despite all the impressive statistics, you can summit Aconcagua without any previous roped-climbing experience but you will need previous experience of high altitude trekking or mountaineering and will need to add lots of hill-walking/hiking closer to home too before you head off to Argentina. Aconcagua lies entirely within Argentina, although close to the border with Chile, the spine of the Andes dividing the continent between these nations. The usual approach to Aconcagua is from the south following the valley of the Rio Horcones. This circles the western flank of the mountain and arrives at the Plaza de Mulas base camp at 4,365m. We visit the South Face on the way. Our route to the summit starts from Plaza de Mulas, where we spend several nights and days as we acclimatise. To improve 1 We d be delighted to talk about Aconcagua with you: Telephone: +44 (0) LiveChat From any page on our website: simon@jagged-globe.co.uk or climb@jagged-globe.co.uk

2 acclimatisation, and for the fun of it, we climb a satellite of Aconcagua, Bonete Peak (5,004m). The normal route from the Horcones Valley gives the most trusted means of reaching the top. Jagged Globe has been using this route since our first ascent in 1992 we have climbed it several times every year since and there is always someone in the office who can talk to you about the mountain based on their own, first-hand experience (most recently, Tom Briggs was on the mountain during the season). The mountain by the normal route from Horcones is technically easy but you mustn t be complacent. The mountain will make physical demands of you beyond anything you can imagine (unless you have climbed higher than Aconcagua before, that is). Ascending this route is very mentally and physically challenging due to the scale of the mountain, its considerable altitude and the infamously unpredictable weather. Many mountaineers fail to reach the top, because their determination wilts under the relentless pressure of simply existing on the mountain side, let alone of climbing it. Here, at Jagged Globe, we have amassed a huge amount of experience of Aconcagua and refined our itinerary for your benefit. We will give you the best advice before you go and the best chance of summit success whilst you are there. We hope too, you ll enjoy the climb from the moment you meet your team mates en route to the mountain, till you part from them as firm friends after an awe-inspiring, life-enriching mountaineering experience of Himalayan proportions. Summit of Aconcagua. Photo: Chris Allewell 2

3 A guanaco carcass found high on the mountain suggests Incas may have attempted to climb Aconcagua. As to whether they reached the summit, sadly there s no firm evidence. German mountaineer, geologist and explorer Paul Gussfeldt made the first recorded attempt in He reached 6,000m following the North Ridge. In 1897, renowned alpinist and Swiss guide Matthias Zurbriggen added Aconcagua to his list of first ascents around the world. He was the first to use the Horcones Valley approach, before tackling the northern flank. Like many mountaineers before, you'll follow in Zurbriggen s footsteps. Harder routes were added over the years. The first winter ascent was made in The team was unable to reach the very top because of a snow cornice. The 1934 Polish Andes Expedition was the first to summit Aconcagua by a different route: Ruta del Glaciar de los Polacos (the Polish Glacier Route) lies on the East Face. In 1951, Foerster, Krahl and Meier repeated Gussfeldt's route and joined it up with the Horcones route at around 6,200m. The South-West ridge was first climbed in 1953 by Swiss couple Frederic and Dorly Marmillod. In 1954, French climbers were the first to scale the steep, massive South Face. In 1966, the Ruta de los Argentinos was put up to the right of the French route. The Central Couloir between the two was climbed the same year saw Reinhold Messner solo a direct finish to the French route. Another variation was added by the Japanese in In 2003, celebrated Slovenian mountaineers Tomaz Humar and Ales Kozelji climbed a new line on the South Face. This 2,500m route took five days and included sections of M6 climbing - overhanging mixed climbing with difficult dry tooling. On Day 5 of your expedition to the mountain, you will visit Plaza Francia to see the awe-inspiring South Face. The trek to this high-point of 4,000-metres is a key part of your acclimatisation programme, before you continue to base camp. Plaza Francia and the South East Face of Aconcagua. Photo: Alex Langdon 3

4 You'll waste no time in travelling to Aconcagua National Park, stopping off for just one night in Mendoza on the way there. Then, you ll slow down a bit, to spend three nights at our acclimatisation camp at nearly 3,400m before the long and otherwise punishing walk to base camp. Once in base camp, you will climb to 5,004m and to the top of Bonete Peak. This builds more acclimatisation but is intended to be a fun day out and an icebreaker in giving your team a first summit. We take acclimatisation seriously and there are other climbing, skills and rest days in the programme to ensure that you sleep well, feel good at altitude and are as confident as possible before the summit climb. We want you to get to the top, and to enjoy it at the same time. So, as well as steady acclimatisation, you'll have a 3-day window for your summit attempt. This allows your team to dance around the weather a little and to fine-tune your personal preparations for what will be, surely, the hardest day you ve ever had in the mountains. Summit day typically takes 10 to 14 hours from Colera Camp at 5,800m for the round trip. Crampons are typically required, though sometimes these are not needed until around 6,300m. After several hours of increasingly tough climbing, as you gain altitude, a long traverse leads across an open scree slope to put you at the bottom of the toughest part of the climb, at a feature called The Cave. Now, all you reserves of physical and mental toughness are going to be called upon. The Canaleta is a large scree-filled gully leading to the summit ridge; it is the steepest part of the day. But, once through it, you hit the ridge, turn-left and quickly make a final few steps up a short spur to reach the rocky top. You'll be exhausted but elated now as you survey the view from this, the highest mountain in the Americas. It is a spectacular vantage point giving views in all directions across the Andes and over a vast arid landscape far below. Camp 1. Photo: Matt Parkes 4

5 Since our early, very successful expeditions to the mountain in the nineties, we have added 2 days to the climbing programme. These make acclimatisation better, so you are more prepared for every next day on the trip. The first of these extra days is spent at Confluencia, just short of 3,400m (Day 6). Most other organisations press on spending just one day here. We did the same for many years but even the modest altitude here gives everyone a physiological punch. For a few, moving on too soon is like a boxer staggering to his feet before the count is over easily unbalanced again by the merest jab. Instead, we allow you to go to the corner, get towelled-down, have a pep talk and then, like Rocky, return, invigorated and steady for the next round of the contest. In remaining at Confluencia for an extra day, we follow a similar routine for Jagged Globe teams going to Everest. Here we spend 3 nights at 3,300m in Namche Bazaar before moving on. Our success rate on Everest is typically 90% to 100% so it makes sense to mimic our approach there on Aconcagua. Avoiding an initial bruising by altitude, no matter how slight, whilst enhancing the depth of acclimatisation very early on, reduces the chances of altitude sickness spoiling the trip as your climb progresses. The second added day is the ascent of Bonete Peak (Day 9). We ve had it in the programme for over a decade now. Its ascent is always enjoyed as a good day out. This is especially so after a rest day following the rigours of the long walk into base camp just 2 days before. Spending a continuous 6 nights in base camp, Bonete forms part of a well-structured, unbroken acclimatisation package that takes you as high as Camp 2 (5,559m). For 3 days in the middle, you will drive yourself to higher and higher altitudes before dropping back to sleep among the warmer and thicker air of base camp. To mark the end of the base camp acclimatisation phase, you ll have another rest day. Then you re heading for the top, gaining height through each of the mountain camps. Before you commit to the summit though, you will have yet one more full acclimatisation day with 2 nights at 5,559m, Camp 2. Bonete Peak, with Aconcagua in the background. Photo: Chris Allewell On By pre-exposing yourself to increasing heights in this way, you ll be more capable of coping, mentally and adjusting physically, as you climb the mountain, particularly on summit day. As best as the mountain allows, this is the perfection of high-altitude mountaineer s mantra Climb High, Sleep Low! 5

6 Day 1-2 Day 3 Fly to Mendoza, Argentina Team members joining the scheduled group flight from London will fly to Buenos Aires (occasionally we fly via Santiago, Chile), then onwards to Mendoza. After an overnight flight across the Atlantic, you continue the journey by flying to Mendoza, where you arrive in the early evening of Day 2. For those joining landonly, you should plan to arrive in Mendoza on Day 2, when services begin. Overnight in hotel, bed and breakfast. You take dinner as a team in one of the many excellent local restaurants (not included). Los Penitentes and the Horcones Valley After getting permits (included) to climb Aconcagua from the national park office in the town, you are driven to Penitentes, a small ski resort near to the entrance of the Horcones Valley. This is not a great area for hotels, as most are shut during the summer having been built for the ski season, but we've chosen the best for you. Here, you split your gear into two loads one of high altitude gear (double boots, mitts, goggles, ice axe, crampons, for example) to go straight to base camp, and one to stay with you for the acclimatisation camp at Confluencia. All main gear is carried by mules, leaving you to trek with just a day sack, meaning minimum weight and effort the altitude, even modest for now, and arid climate make it tough enough! Day 4 Trek to Confluencia (3,395m) and first Aconcagua views After a good breakfast, you drive to the National Park entrance, just a kilometre or so up the road. You stop nearby at the spectacular natural stone arch that spans the river at Puente del Inca formed over millennia by the sulphurous oozings from nearby hot springs. Today's walk to the campsite at Confluencia takes around 4 hours, following the big valley flanked by impressive scree slopes and folded strata. You get your first views of Aconcagua, too. This is the first night under canvas, and the start of your acclimatisation proper. You spend 3 nights here. Day 5 Acclimatisation Hike to Plaza Francia (4,000m) Today, you hike into the Inferior Rio Horcones Valley, which leads to a view of Aconcagua's huge South Face, rising a sheer 3,000m from the head of the valley. This hike to 4,000m, at Plaza Francia, is about acclimatisation. Over a picnic lunch, we see the routes of ascent taken by the original French climbers and by Messner. You return to Confluencia for the night and the regime of Climbing High, Sleeping Low has begun! Day 6 Acclimatisation Around Confluencia. There s no pressure to do much of anything today you ll acclimatise just fine by resting basting in the juices of altitude like a slow-roasting chicken! Make sure you have a good book, and take the time to drink as much as you can throughout the day. But, if you want to take a walk, the leader will organise a group trek. You can go up the Horcones Valley or scramble a slope towards 4,000m or to whatever height you can reach comfortably without excessive exertion. Busting a gut now does not help acclimatisation and is unnecessary for the moment; the aim being to get to base camp tomorrow, ready and fit for more. 6

7 Day 7 Trek to Plaza de Mulas (4,365m) A tough 8-hour trek and 1000m of up leads to base camp the 3 rd hardest day of the expedition. The first half of the trek rises gently enough but it is a long way before the valley splits and you swing off right. Now it gets grittier, steeper and drier - you ll need to have kept a litre of water in reserve, just for this last section of the day. A few hours short of base camp, the path rises even more steeply among rocks but, soon after this last blast of effort, you are relaxing and settling into your tent. In base camp, you meet the local staff, extra guides, cooks and camp assistants, who support your climb from now on. A mess tent caters for meals, meetings and socialising. Day 8 Acclimatisation and rest day at Base Camp (4,365m) Today you rest and acclimatise further. Some may still be feeling the strain of altitude after the previous hard day. We have breakfast, lunch and dinner in base camp, as well as hot drinks and water to keep hydration levels up to help you acclimatise (showers are available). Day 9 Climb Bonete Peak (5,004m) and view the route up Aconcagua Bonete is a great day out, shaking of the torpor of base camp and benefitting your acclimatisation. Also, your first summit and from its top, you see most of the route to the summit of Aconcagua. You ll be there soon enough in 8 days time! Day 10 Camp 1, Climb to Canada Place (c5,000m), return to base camp. Today, you climb to Canada Place on a spur protruding from the west flank of the mountainside. You leave with the team leader and your local guides very soon after breakfast. It will be a flog to start off with, but you arrive by mid-afternoon, drop off a small stash of food and fuel for your future use and descend very quickly to base camp. This is your fist steps on the mountain, getting you into the rhythm of the climb to come. Day 11 Camp 2, Nido de Condores (5,559m), return to base camp. This is the 2 nd hardest day of the expedition. It is essential training, getting you ready for the demands of summit day, which are mental, as much as physical. Overcoming today will make a huge difference to your fortitude when it counts, in just 6 days time. After an early breakfast, you head out on to the slopes above, zig-zagging to regain a point just short of Canada Place, the rest points and way-markers along the trail being familiar now from the day before. By-passing Camp 1, you head up to the change of slope, above which the huge scree field, that descends from where the Canaleta, opens out. Now, on a rising traverse, you plod incessantly onwards to a large flat area where you find Camp 2, Nido de Condores. Here, you drop another small cache which you ll return to eat in a few days time. Day 12 Rest day at Base Camp (4,365m) Rest, acclimatise, practise snow and ice craft on the nearby glacier and have another soothing shower! 7

8 Day 13 Climb to Camp 1 (c5,000m) This time you leave base camp with your heart and mind focussed on the summit. Having carried light loads before, you are ready now to take on the additional weight of your personal gear for the move up the mountain. This time, you need stuff for 6 nights on the mountain, the first of which is this night at Canada Camp which is a great place to see and photograph the sunset. Having been here and higher already, you should settle readily to this altitude and awake well-rested, ready for a determined push to the higher camps. Day 14 Climb to Camp 2 (5,559m) Having been this way before, you arrive in Nido for lunch, finding it a much easier as it is a comparatively short walk over from Canada. Above base camp, the local guides do the cooking and provide hot drinks to keep you fed and watered. In the afternoon, you can walk around the large, shallow basin in which the campsite sits sometimes with a snow-melted pond in the middle. From the northern side, you get views of the route, almost to the top, including the traverse across the scree field to the foot of the Canaleta. Day 15 Acclimatisation day at Camp 2 This day ensures that when you strike out for the top, you have the added edge to your acclimatisation. Again, a day when a good book pays dividends and, the good news perhaps, there is no merit whatsoever in doing anything here other than drinking, eating and snoozing, between the occasional short, easy stroll if you must. Day 16 Climb to Camp 3 Colera Camp, near Berlin Huts (5,993m) Today you climb new ground to Berlin Huts. It takes about 3 hours, so there s no need to rush. The Berlin Huts themselves are derelict; you camp on a plateau at Colera Camp just 300m away. From here, you have an excellent view of the mountain, although the top still looks far above. Day Summit Bid 3 Day Window (6,959m) You have 3 days for the summit bid. When you go, it will be the hardest day of all on Aconcagua, by a huge margin and, more likely than not, in your life as a mountaineer to date. Expect as much as 10 hours to reach the top. You wake early and leave at 6am. A path through rock, scree and over snow patches leads to the Independencia Hut at 6,377m. Then it is up and across the grand traverse at the head of the scree field to the bottom of the Canaleta. Strenuous climbing up this leads to the summit ridge; peer over for stupendous views straight down Aconcagua's South Face! A small mound of boulders and a cross marks the summit. After celebrating, you go down to Colera Camp, to sleep and to dream of the great day done. Day 20 Last night on the mountain Relax and let the sunlight bathe and warm your tent before emerging for breakfast. Then make a rapid descent down scree slopes to base camp, where your support staff are waiting to share in the excitement of your ascent. You will be down by early- 8

9 afternoon, which gives plenty of time for a shower and to prepare for the walk out, tomorrow. The final night s dinner on the mountain is accompanied by beer, wine and tales of the adventure. This is you last night in a tent. Day 21 Return to Mendoza and celebration dinner Today you trek back through the Horcones Valley, all the way back to the road at the park entrance, where the transport meets you. Then it s by road back to Mendoza and your hotel. By 9pm you will have showered, changed and be out for dinner with your team mates and guides to celebrate the expedition. Day 22 Depart Mendoza The scheduled group flight back to London, UK will leave Mendoza in the morning. For those joining land-only, you should book your flight home today as services end. Day 23 Arrive home PLEASE NOTE: We expect to keep to the above itinerary but as this is Adventure Travel in the mountains, the actual day-to-day programme you will follow is neither predictable nor guaranteed. For example, the weather and the health of climbers can contribute to changes. The expedition Leader and our local guides will try to ensure that the expedition runs according to plan, but an easy going nature will be an asset! 9

10 » Aconcagua Climbing Permit (often excluded as an added extra).» A Jagged Globe Leader (to accompany the team from the UK, unless engaged in-country on a prior expedition)» Argentine mountains guides, together with the leader, to the ratios as follows: o o one leader/guide for every 4 team members between base camp and Camp 3, one leader/guide for every 3 team members from Camp 3 to the summit.» Mountain Porters, as needed, to carry group equipment (tents/ stoves/ some food) to the higher camps.» Mules to carry your personal gear (max 25Kgs) to Confluencia and base camp. You carry day sack.» International Flight - economy return from the UK to Mendoza via Buenos Aires or via Santiago de Chile (excluded if joining land-only).» UK Air Passenger Duty (APD) and Argentine Airport Taxes (excluded if joining land-only and you make your own international flight arrangements).» 2 group road transfers between airports in Buenos Aires needed to connect the international and domestic flights (excluded if joining land-only).» 2 group road transfers between Mendoza Airport and hotel, connecting with flights (excluded if joining land-only).» 3 nights hotel accommodation: 2 nights in Mendoza (bed & breakfast), one night in Los Penitentes (full-board).» 17 nights sleeping in tents (full-board) base camp or mountain camps.» Showers in Confluencia and base camp.» All road transport by private vehicles, as described in the itinerary.» A large Jagged Globe kitbag.» Visa - not required by UK Citizens. (Visas, payable on arrival, are needed by some. US, Canadian and Australians pay reciprocity fees on-line before travelling. Please check with your own Argentine Embassy).» Lunch and/ or evening meals in Buenos Aires/ Santiago & Mendoza.» Bar bills, laundry and other personal hotel expenditure.» Travel insurance.» Porterage above base camp of personal clothing, equipment and food (see notes on Load Carrying on the Mountain).» Extra hotel nights needed in Mendoza by you as a result of you returning from the mountain ahead of schedule, for whatever reason.» The cost of your walk-out from base camp and transport to Mendoza plus the porterage of your equipment by mule, if not trekking and travelling with the main expedition group (for example, should you leave early or be evacuated for medical reasons).» Any medical costs incurred by you, or costs associated with a medical incident, such as your evacuation from the mountain and/ or hospitalisation (for which you should have travel insurance).» Optional trips or excursions. 10

11 » Tips for local staff and guides. Photo: Mara Larson and Jagged Globe team about to depart for the summit, December 2016 Our Jagged Globe leaders are selected for their experience climbing at extreme altitudes. Their leadership skills in managing individuals with differing mountaineering backgrounds, outlooks and aspirations are important too, as well as their social aptitude. The maximum team size is 12 plus the Jagged Globe Leader. An Argentine Mountain Guide will join you in Mendoza and stay with you until you return back to the city after the climb. Another guide will join you in base camp. A third guide will join teams of 10 climbers or more for the final summit day. This gives you every chance of success with flexibility during the climb for team members to move at different speeds. It allows also for the team to split (to climb up or down) should it be necessary and safe to do so. Please note that some tour operators in the UK are advertising 15+ Aconcagua dates each season. In contrast, we offer a smaller number of dates, but these are Jagged Globe expeditions, planned and led by us, following our itinerary, with only team members who have booked with us. We recommended that you ask whether a tour operator is simply acting as a travel agent and re-selling in-country operator trips, rather than putting together their own teams and following a bespoke itinerary. 11

12 Aconcagua is much harder than any other trekking peak. It is immeasurably harder than Kilimanjaro (which isn t even in the same ball park), which most people have done before going to Aconcagua. This is a tough mountaineering expedition. It is a long and immensely tiring climb at extreme altitude; it will take you to the very edge of endurance and mental fortitude. It will test your stamina and determination in every conceivable way. You will need to carry your own personal equipment, weighing 12 to 14kgs when you go up the mountain to sleep above base camp. On summit day, you will carry a light sack, but with some essential equipment for safety and clothing for warmth. Expect this to weigh 4 to 6 Kg, not forgetting each litre of drinking water weighs one kilogramme. To prepare you for this final effort, you should carry something of use on the load carrying days (see below for more detail). Summit day itself is very long. Sometimes, teams have to wait at Camp 3 till the very end of their allocated summit window whilst storms clear the mountain - this can be immensely draining physically and mentally; pushing some beyond their reserves of physical tolerance. Once storms have stopped, it may not then be possible to continue the climb, especially if large amounts of snow have fallen or drifted in the wind. On Days 10 & 11, you are asked to carry 5 to 8Kg of food to leave at Camp 1 & Camp 2. This is good training for any future 8000-metre peaks, if that is where you aim lies after Aconcagua. For now, it prepares you for the rigours of Summit Day, when you must carry enough gear to sustain you on the long climb to the top, for extra warmth and comfort. Your rucksack will not be quite as heavy on summit day as during these training & acclimatisation days but you will be 1,500m (one mile, if you will) higher in the sky and enveloped by much thinner air. The equipment you should take on the trip overall, and how this is best broken down to be used at different stages, will be covered during the pre-expedition weekend. Your leader will advise you in base camp what you should take up the mountain and what you should leave behind. At all times; now, when you buy, when you pack to fly and then when you repack during the trip, please look critically at your equipment and approach the task of packing by selecting only the essentials and nothing more. 12

13 Turn up as fit and strong as you've ever been and you will not regret it - achieve that by building stamina through endurance training - rely on hill-walking with a 15Kg pack, swimming and cycling, rather than long distance running. We give you a good level of support, but to join this expedition you need:» To be mentally prepared for the rigours of a desert environment with extremes of heat, cold and wind on a high and exposed mountain.» A high level of fitness, determination and robustness, with experience of previous arduous, high-altitude treks or climbs.» Experience of wilderness camping. It is preferable, but not essential that you have:» Experience of winter mountaineering,» The use of ice axe and crampons. Our Scottish Winter Courses and our Alpine Courses would provide good skills training for this expedition. You can find out more about these from our website. Having a solid base of fitness prior to departing on the expedition will give you the best chance of reaching the summit and enjoying it along the way. There are many different ways to train the body and it is important to choose the correct method. Climbing a mountain such as Aconcagua requires that you to have a high level of endurance. Training for endurance means developing the aerobic energy system in your body. Essentially your objective is to train the energy production systems to meet the demands of the activity for as long as required. For Aconcagua summit day this means 12+ hours. In order to better advise you, we asked Steve House and Scott Johnston, authors of the authoritative book, Training for the New Alpinism, for their advice. Our Kit List and Trip Information document, which you receive once you have booked, has some general training advice in it from Steve and Scott. Additionally you can purchase an 8 week, 16 week or 24 week training programme via the Uphill Athlete website: 13

14 The statistics below show the percentage of all team members who went to Argentina with Jagged Globe and reached the summit - for all expeditions from December 2008 onwards. The average team size is around 10 climbers, not including the leader or guides. In summary: the overwhelming majority of team members reach the top camp and make a summit bid. 7 Dec '08 14 Dec '08 8 Jan '09 22 Jan '09 6 Dec '09 13 Dec '09 7 Jan '10 21 Jan '10 12 Dec '10 6 Jan '11 20 Jan '11 11 Dec '11 6 Jan '12 13 Jan '12 2 Dec '12 14 Dec '12 11 Jan '13 1 Dec Dec 5 Jan Jan Nov Dec 14 3 Jan % 91.6% (11 out of 12 summit) 55.5% 40% 61.5% 63.6% 64.2% 40% 0% Bad weather 25% 36.3% 75% 0% Bad weather 0% Bad weather 0% Bad weather 72% (8 out of 11 team members summit in marginal conditions. Leader, Andy Chapman (35 Jagged Globe expeditions) comments "We have had some very challenging weather conditions. I think that it is the worst I have had other than in Antarctica" 12.5% (1 reached the summit, 1 within 50m, weather deteriorated rapidly. Team descended in violent storm from 6,900m. Some loss of life among other teams). 20% 50% 0% (everyone to 6,400m then heavy snow and whiteout.) 33% 0% (everyone reached high camp at 6,002m, but it was too windy to attempt the summit) 50% summit in deteriorating weather from camp 2 50% summit in perfect conditions, though one day early due to approaching storm 60% summit in perfect conditions 10 Jan Nov 15 44% (4 of 9) summited on a really nice day. Two members reach 6,750m at The Cave in the Canaleta and three reach camp Dec 15 41% (5 of 12) summited 28 December with leader Chris Allewell and guides, Gianni and Lucas. 19 Dec 15 8% (1 of 12). A slim weather window never really materialised so 8 members made an early summit bid from camp 2. After an enormous effort one member, plus local guide, Mauri summited (the only two people to do so that day). 2 Jan 16 63% (5 of 8) summited 17 January. One member left the expedition early, one member reached 6,200m and one reached 6,500m. Good weather. 9 Jan 16 0% Bad weather. 26 Nov 16 66% (4 of 6) in good weather. 17 Dec 16 18% in strong winds. Two members left the expedition early for personal reasons, the remaining nine attempted to summit from C2 in brutal conditions due to only having a very marginal summit window. Most of the team made it to Independencia, with two members plus two guides battling on to the summit. 2 Jan 17 50%. Small team Two of four climbers summited. 7 Jan 17 66%. Six out of nine climbers summited, one climber reached 6400m. 14

15 An expedition is a complete adventure and the culmination of training; it is the time to put training into practice. We might rehearse and refresh, but the objectives will be the summits we climb, the paths we trek, or the slopes we ski. As a team member, you will be with likeminded people, all seeking adventure and the camaraderie that people share when facing challenges together. You should be technically & physically competent so please check you meet the pre-trip requirements before booking. The expedition will broaden your experience and deepen your knowledge; for example, by reaching new altitudes, by extending yourself technically and physically or by coping with extreme conditions. All the time, you will revel in the simple thrill of being among the mountains and enjoying the cultures encountered en route. Fundamental to this, will be the chance to make new friends along the way. Jagged Globe expeditions are not 'guided' or 'instructed', as our courses are, but 'professionally-led'. An expedition comprises a team leader (appointed by Jagged Globe), team members (you) and local guides (recruited in-country for their local knowledge). Our expeditions are well resourced and equipped, to ensure the objectives can be met. The leader will set the tone and the overall parameters for the conduct of the trip. The leader will ensure that every opportunity is taken to fulfil the objectives described in the trip's itinerary, whilst not slavishly being bound by it. The leader will establish a framework of safety, and engender a positive attitude towards ensuring a safe outcome. As a team member, you are responsible for your own participation, especially in those activities that are hazardous by nature. We look to you to be mindful of risks at all times and to use your initiative, common sense and previous experience to face up to them and to reduce them where possible. Local guides possess the detailed local knowledge we need to achieve our goals. Local guides are not sent to 'Guide', as is now understood when climbing in the Alps with a European-Certified Guide, but to act in the more traditional sense as pathfinders and helpers. We like our expedition teams to operate within an envelope of mutual support and trust, and the leader will work to build this as the trip progresses. This acknowledges that everyone on the team (the leader, yourself and the local staff) has a contribution to make in helping towards the safe outcome of the venture you are participating in, proportionate to each person's knowledge and experience. 15

16 Jagged Globe offers pre-trip weekends for all expeditions. The pre-trip weekend is a key element of your expedition. You do not have to be booked onto a trip to attend a weekend, so it s the perfect opportunity to meet us and find out more about Jagged Globe. The pre-trip weekend provides team members with important information and skills that will enhance your experience of the trip. It is a chance to meet other team members, should they be attending, as well as giving you the opportunity to meet our office team, visit our specialist equipment shop and try on any hire equipment you may need. Normally a number of different teams meet over the weekend. The Saturday is based in and around Sheffield with presentations on equipment, dealing with altitude, expedition safety and staying healthy. In the evening there will be a meal and social gathering to get to know others on your trip. On Sunday we will go outdoors to the nearby Peak District. The activity will be focused on your expedition. This will be a walk, scramble or rock climbing sessions using fixed rope and abseiling, if appropriate, at a nearby crag. The weekends are free to attend and are normally scheduled 6 8 weeks prior to your trip departure date. If you are booked onto a trip confirmed dates will be enclosed with your Booking Confirmation . If you have yet to book a place on a trip, please us to enquire about a suitable pre-trip weekend date. To book a place we will need to know at least 10 days beforehand. We look forward to meeting you at the weekend. Programme Day Time Activity Saturday 9.30am Meet at Jagged Globe. Introductions, tea/ coffee. Personal kit and equipment. Avoiding altitude illness. Looking after yourself on expedition pm 1pm 5pm Lunch, please bring a packed lunch (there are nearby shops if you forget) Drive out of town for practical sessions e.g. Roping up for glacier travel, using fixed rope, abseiling, rock scrambling and remote camping skills. Return to Jagged Globe. Saturday evening 7-10pm Meet at a pre- booked venue for dinner followed by a presentation about your trip. 16

17 Sunday 9am Meet at Jagged Globe. Drive out to the Peak District for a whole day activity. A chance to break in boots and test waterproofs. 4pm Weekend finishes. Take kit bags or fleeces and any hire kit away with you. Please note that you will need normal UK hill walking equipment including packed lunch, boots, waterproofs and insulating layers. Some options may include: Grade 1 Trekking, e.g. Everest Base Camp Bleaklow Head from Doctor s Gate. 400m ascent and descent. 8km walk over heather moorland taking in steep slopes in ascent and descent with a visit to a crashed aircraft on the way. Grade 1 Trekking peak, e.g. Kilimanjaro Lemosho Glades Kinder Scout from Edale. 730m of ascent and descent. 10km walk over paths and rough moorland taking in Ringing Roger and Woolpacks on the way. Grade 2, Semi technical trekking peak, e.g. Mera Peak Kinder Scout Plateau via Blackden Brook. 350m of ascent and descent. 9km of steep walking with some steep scrambling on route. Descent via Fairbrook Naze. Grade 3/4, Technical expedition, e.g. Bolivian Climber/ Alpamayo A day s single pitch rock climbing. Climbing on one of the 150 crags in the Sheffield area looking at movement skills, abseiling, free hanging jumar use and crevasse rescue. Getting here Jagged Globe is located close to Sheffield city centre. We are around mins walking distance from Sheffield railway and Interchange Coach stations. We are located next to The Foundry Climbing Centre in the Kelham Island area of the city. There is free car parking within the Foundry Climbing Centre car park as well as ample on street parking. Accommodation There is lots of hotel accommodation in Sheffield, however the following hotels are within easy walking distance of Jagged Globe HQ. Holiday Inn. 4 Star, Victoria Station Rd, Sheffield S4 7YE. Stately redbrick property with an elegant restaurant and a lounge bar. Approximately 50 a night. 500m away. Hampton by Hilton. 3 Star, West Bar Green, Sheffield, S1 2DA. Set in a former police station, this new urban hotel is centrally located with free Wi-Fi and breakfast. Approximately 50 a night. 600m away. Mercure Sheffield St Paul's Hotel and Spa. 4 Star, 119 Norfolk St, Sheffield, S1 2JE. Adjacent to the city's Winter Gardens, amenities include a modern British restaurant with a glass ceiling and city-view dining, plus a chic champagne bar. There's also a spa with a heated indoor pool. Approximately 80 a night. 1400m away. 17

18 A complete equipment list is sent to you on booking and is available to download from our website. To save you the cost of buying, our equipment hire service includes plastic boots, down jackets and down sleeping bags. We can organise this expedition on a 'tailor-made' private basis for groups. Depending on your mountaineering experience, you might require a Jagged Globe leader or prefer to go 'self-led' with assistance from local guides. Please contact us to discuss when you want to go. We will put together a no-obligation quote. All advance payments you make to us are protected. This means that should something untoward happen to Jagged Globe, as a business, your money will be refunded. If you are already overseas, the expedition will continue or you will be brought home at no cost to yourself. If your booking includes an International Flight, your booking is protected by the ATOL scheme, provided by the Civil Aviation Authority. Our ATOL number is You will get an ATOL certificate confirming the protection you have as soon as your booking is confirmed. If you are a UK resident travelling land-only (no flight included) your booking is protected by ABTOT. Our ABTOT number is The contract governing your booking with us will be governed by the law of England and Wales. Jagged Globe is a UK registered tour operator, bound by the Package Travel Regulations Jagged Globe carries Public Liability ( 2,500,000), Product Liability ( 2,500,000) and Professional Indemnity ( 1,000,000) Insurance. If you would like to book a place on this expedition, you can do so securely on our website, over the phone or by sending in a booking form by post. A deposit secures a place on your chosen departure. You will receive an automated acknowledging that your booking has been received. We will then confirm your booking in writing and send you a receipt for the deposit, an invoice for the final balance, ATOL certificate and equipment list. You will be given an account on a secure area of the Jagged Globe website, where you can complete other essential administration relating to the trip. Book Now: 18